Fazer Owners Club - Unofficial
Bikes, Hints'n'Tips => Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner => Topic started by: PieEater on 07 June 2016, 01:20:44 pm
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(https://c3.staticflickr.com/4/3841/14286473850_6fd4f06277_c.jpg)
What is it?
The FZS1000 Gen1 Fazer was released in 2001 as the bigger stablemate to the popular FZS600 and shared the same design brief, sportsbike engine in a steel tube chassis with the everyday rider in mind when it came to practicalities such as riding position, seat comfort, tank range, centre stand etc. The engine in the Gen1 is the carburetted R1 engine with some modifications to tame the power delivery and focus more on midrange and torque. The chassis is heavier and longer than the R1 taming the handling to match the road going bias of the bike. Throughout its history the Gen1 has maintained its reputation of being a brilliant do-it-all bike usually leading the group tests of its contemporaries. In 2006 Yamaha introduced the Gen2 Fazer 1000 apparently the market was calling for a more sports orientated option the result was a faster better handling motorcycle, but arguably at the expense of practicalities such as comfort, tank range etc. Hence the Gen1 still has a broad following with owners choosing to retain the do-it-all nature of the earlier bike but upgrading suspension and fuelling to keep it current.
Which one should I buy?
There have been no major updates to the Gen1 Fazer 1000 through its 5 year history which should influence your purchasing decision. Rather than age it is better to focus on overall condition of the bike, its history and whether it has any of the popular modifications already fitted. High mileage should not necessarily put you off purchasing a Gen1 if it has been properly maintained, examples of bikes doing over 100,000 trouble free miles are not uncommon.
Notes on Imported bikes
- Bikes imported into the UK from countries that drive on the right side of the road may still have headlights that are angled incorrectly for UK roads, this may result in a MOT failure.
- Some early bikes sold in France (~2001) were fitted with a 100BHP restrictor kit, this consists of black grommets attached to the carb tops which prevent the throttle slide from fully opening, these can easily be removed to restore full power
- US Imports can be readily identified as they will have FZ1 decals on the fairing rather than the word Fazer.
- Some imported bikes may not have the hazard lights switch or the high beam pass button on the left hand switchgear, however the wiring and connectors for these should still be present so if desired it is just a case of finding and installing a second hand UK spec switchgear unit.
What should I look out for?
- The Gen1 can suffer from corrosion if neglected, check the condition of the exhaust headers for a good indication of how the bike has been treated. Bikes with silver engines generally suffer with the engine paint flaking with age / neglect.
- The Gen1 has an EXUP valve system which modifies exhaust back pressure in order to increase low down torque, the EXUP valve requires regular servicing (http://www.cartestsoftware.com/fz1/exupmaintenance.html) but this is often neglected. When looking at purchasing a Gen1 you should confirm with the owner / dealer that this servicing has been done and preferably confirm for yourself that the bolts securing the cover and valve mechanism are able to turn freely as they often rust and seize in place.
- The compression damping adjusters on the fork legs can be prone to seize, before parting with your cash make sure that these can turn and you can hear the clicks as they move from one position to the next.
What upgrades / modifications should I consider?
Suspension / Handling
- The suspension on the Gen1 Fazer 1000 has never been its strong point and time will have only made things worse. The rear shock is particularly bad and should be one of the first thing owners consider when looking to improve the bikes handling. There are several options available including having the OEM shock re-sprung & refurbished, the popular R6 shock mod (http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php/topic,936.0.html) or purchasing a complete new shock from the likes of Nitron / Ohlins.
- The front forks will benefit from stronger springs and fresh oil. There are many options available including progressive springs from Hyperpro and linear springs from K-Tech. Another more extreme option that some owners have taken is to fit R1 upside down forks to the bike although this is not a straight swap.
- The bikes handling can also be noticeably improved by fitting a jack-up kit and raising the forks through the yokes, both of these options alter the bikes geometry and quicken it’s responsiveness through corners with minimal or no cost.
Brakes
- Yamaha recommend that the OEM rubber brake lines are replaced after 4 years, if your bike still has these fitted you should consider replacing them on safety grounds. Hel offer a £25% discount for Fazer Forum members, you will need to place your order over the telephone (01392 811601) and mention the forums.
- Many owners report that the OEM Yamaha brake pads offer better performance and less disk wear than other options, however these can be prohibitively expensive. Other common options are sintered pads from EBC or Carbone Lorraine which offer good performance or Organic / Ceramic pads from EBC which loose out a little to outright grip but are less prone to glazing and disk wear.
Handlebars
- Many Fazer owners opt to replace the OEM handlebars with Renthal 758 Ultralow Street bars either through accident or design. These bars are slightly lower and wider than the OEM bars allowing a little more weight over the front of the bike and more controlled counter steering, they will fit with all of the OEM equipment but will need tapping out if you wish to retain the OEM bar end weights (recommended).
Carb kits
- There are a number of carb kits for the Gen1 Fazer 1000 the most popular on these forums is the kit from Ivan's Performance Products (http://www.ivansperformanceproducts.com/fz1.htm). This kit fully addresses the issues with the stock fuelling and when combined with a free flowing air filter, airbox mods and aftermarket end can boosts power by at least 10HP. The UK supplier for Ivan's products are SG Motorsport (https://www.sgmotorsport.biz/product/ivans-yamaha-fz1-fazer1000-jet-kit-2001-2002-2003-2005).
AIS system Removal
- The bike is fitted with an air induction system fitted solely for emissions purposes. Removal of the AIS allows for much easier maintenance such as access to the spark plugs, reduces unnecessary weight and makes the engine look less cluttered. There are two methods for blanking off the spigots at the exhaust manifolds, one involves tapping out the spigots and using a bolt to seal them, the other method involves a cap that fits over the spigot. As well as the spigots there are 2 further caps required one for the airbox and the other for the intake port. Kits are available for either method that supply all the required parts for this modification.
- Ivan's AIS removal kit (tapping method) is available through SG Motorsports (https://www.sgmotorsport.biz/product/yamaha-fz1-fazer1000-ivans-air-induction-removal-kit-2001-2015/). Pats site has some instructions for AIS removal based on using Ivan's kit here (http://www.cartestsoftware.com/fz1/airinductionsystemremoval.html).
- The Holeshot FZ1 Racing Air Induction Removal Kit (capping method) is available direct from Holeshot (http://www.holeshot.com/) in the USA.
Ivan's air box mod(part of the full monty mod)- Like most bikes the air box airflow coould be better, here is an example of how to do it right - https://foc-u.co.uk/index.php?topic=27415.0 (https://foc-u.co.uk/index.php?topic=27415.0)
Manual Cam Chain tensioner
- Whilst generally reliable there have been known incidences of the OEM automatic cam chain tensioner failing resulting in major engine damage. Fitting a manual tensioner eliminates this risk.
4 Degree Ignition Advancer
- An ignition advancer will help the bike start better and give a useful boost to power at the lower end of the rev range, the trade-off is a slight loss of power at the very top end.
Are there any Gen1 specific service items or issues I should be aware of?
EXUP Valve
- The EXUP valve should be regularly serviced at least annually, refer to Pat’s excellent guide (http://www.cartestsoftware.com/fz1/exupmaintenance.html) on how to do this. Replacing the OEM retaining bolts for the cover and valve plate with stainless steel alternatives is highly recommended, the necessary sizes are M6 x 10mm (x3) for the outer cover and M6 x 16mm (x3) for the valve plate (thanks to forum member robbo for this information).
Valve Clearances
If you are planning on checking the valve clearances yourself (26,600 mile intervals) a service manual such as those from Haynes & Clymer is always recommended but there are a number of points you should be aware of.
- Firstly as partial removal of the AIS system forms part of the process you should plan on using this opportunity to completely remove the AIS, if it hasn't already been junked (see appropriate section above).
- Secondly if the service manual tells you to remove the carbs as part of the process (as per Mr Haynes) then this isn't necessary.
- Thirdly it isn't necessary to remove the timing cover in order to find TDC as long as the cam lobe is directly opposite the valve bucket you are checking then this is sufficient, putting the bike in gear and rotating the rear wheel will allow you to rotate the cams.
- Lastly the exhaust valve clearances are 0.21mm to 0.30mm some manuals will say that he upper tolerance is 0.25mm, (thanks to forum member Unfazed for this information), the intake clearances are 0.11mm to 0.20mm.
Carburettors
- It is not uncommon for the carb jets to become gummed over time if the bike is not in regular use or is generally laid up over the winter months. To help prevent this you can use a fuel such as Shell V-Power which includes additives to clean the fuel system, this can be one tankful in every two or three and still be effective. If you suspect you may have fuelling issues due to partially blocked jets, running the bike with a fuel additive such as Redline in one or two tanks of fuel should help clean the fuel system of residual gum.
- The rubber on the inlet manifolds between the carbs and the cylinder head is prone to cracking, this is generally cosmetic with no reported issues of the cracks affecting the internal walls of the manifolds or the performance of the engine.
- With age the rubber O rings in the carbs can deteriorate leading to a number of issues with the bike running roughly especially at lower revs / speeds. Given the age of the OEM O rings it is recommended to replace these using Nitrile (Buna-N) or Viton® (FKM) O-Rings, Fluoroelastomer Seal type FKM 75 in the following sizes;
- Float needle valve: 7.5mm ID x 1.5mm cross section x 10.5mm OD
- Main Jet : 5.5mm ID x 1.5mm cross section x 8.5mm OD
- Idle air screw: 3.0mm ID x 1.0mm cross section x 5.0mm OD
- Under Diaphragm cap 2.5mm ID x 1.5mm cross section x 5.5mm OD
- Idle air screw O-ring is a proprietary size of 2.70 I.D. x 1.13mm - It may also be worthwhile replacing the float bowl seals, OEM parts can be expensive but the same part is used by Suzuki and Kawasaki so it can be worthwhile checking if any are cheaper than the others;
- YAMAHA PART # 5DM-14561-00-00
- SUZUKI PART# 13258-04F00
- KAWASAKI PART# 92055-S058
Front Sprocket
- It is fairly common for the tab washer that is supposed to secure the front sprocket bolt to have not been correctly tabbed over leading to the sprocket bolt loosening and even coming off the spline totally. It is worthwhile checking this after purchasing your Fazer and remember to always use a new tab washer after replacing your chain and sprockets.
Drive Chain
- The Gen1 requires 45-55mm of slack in the drive chain which is more than most bikes. A rule of thumb to check the tension is to place the bike on the centre stand and lift the lower chain run midway along the swingarm as far as it will go, the chain should just touch the black chain guide. You should rotate the rear wheel a few times to check for tight spots and check the tension at the tightest point of the chain.
Ignition Lock
- The ignition lock can become difficult to operate, it is recommended that the barrel is cleaned out using a solvent spray then lubricated with a dry lube such as graphite grease, avoid any lubricants that may attract dirt and worsen the problem.
Electrical connectors
Given the age of the bike it is worthwhile going through all of the electrical connector blocks on the bike checking for corrosion and making repairs where necessary.
- An electrical contact cleaner spray can be used to degrease and clean both the inside & outside of the blocks, the outside of the blocks should be treated sparingly with a product that will repel water and prevent corrosion such as dielectric grease or ACF50.
- Particular attention should be given to both the larger connector attached to the fairing below the left hand infill which can result in headlamp faults, and the large white connector under the left hand side of the tank which should be replaced (http://www.yamahafz1oa.com/eskortsdefectiveconnectorreplacement.shtml) if it shows any signs of corrosion or heat damage.
Radiator Fan
- The radiator fan on the Gen1 will switch on once the engine has been started and the bike left in neutral for a short time, the fan will turn off once the bike is put in gear. This is by design, Yamaha have said it is to prevent the fans blades from warping due to heat from the header pipes.
Tachometer Codes
The bike has some built in diagnostics that are reported through the rev counter. When a particular fault is detected the rev counter needle repeatedly alternates between a set RPM then back to the bikes correct RPM, these codes are;
- 3,000 RPM = Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) Fault
- 4,000 RPM = Speed Sensor Fault
- 7,000 RPM = EXUP System Fault
- 9.000 RPM = Overturn Switch Fault (Note: This error code can in some cases be triggered by a faulty battery)
Oil Level Light
- The oil warning light on the Gen1 works from an oil level sensor rather than oil pressure. It is notorious for coming on if the oil level falls much below the maximum level mark on the sight glass. When undertaking an oil change make sure you use sufficient oil to reach the maximum level mark.
- Checking the oil level should be done with a warm engine, the bike placed on the centre stand on level ground, and after allowing a few minutes for the oil level to settle.
Front Suspension Compression Damping Adjusters
- As mentioned earlier these adjusters found on the fork legs just below the front brake mounting points can be prone to seizing due to corrosion, this can generally be prevented by regularly cleaning and maintenance. If the bike is used in winter, kept outdoors or not cleaned regularly a coating of Vaseline or grease over the adjuster can help prevent this corrosion, however this may attract grit and road debris so should be cleaned off carefully to avoid pushing grit into the adjuster which may then cause it to stick. If they do become stuck this method (http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php/topic,24603.0.html) may help free them.
Rear Suspension / Swingarm Linkage Play- Some MOT testers may issue an advisory for play in the rear suspension / swingarm bushes and bearings. Gen1 Fazers do have a longer than average swingarm and a degree of up and down play is standard, it is only felt when the bike is on the centre stand and the the rear wheel is lifted up. When the bike is on the road any slack is taken up and it is a non issue. If you explain this to the tester they are generally OK about removing the advisory or not putting it on the next certificate. if you do look at stripping the linkage for inspection or to replace parts some have reported torqueing the bolts back up with the bike on the side stand reduces the inherent free play although from reports of owners that have done this it cannot be totally eliminated. New bearings and seals can be obtained from Marksman (https://shop.marksman-ind.com/fzs1000-fazer-gen1-linkage-bearing--seal-kit-10364-p.asp).
Fairing Infill's
- Due to age the black plastic infills either side of the fairing can become brittle, if these are removed during maintenance it is recommended that you refit them with a suitable rubber washer between the mounting points and infill to help prevent the infills cracking around the bolt holes, do not overtighten the retaining bolts.
Silver Engine Paint
- On bikes with silver engines the engine paint can be prone to flaking after a while, if you want to re-spray parts of the engine or the whole block then Simoniz Engine Enamel in the Aluminium finish is a good match for the OEM paint.
Replacement parts
- Parts for the FZS1000 are becoming harder to find, but it seems a company (AVB Moto) in France are doing a pattern versions of the generator cover, wich is good news for FZS1000 owners. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/114551431850 (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/114551431850)
Company: SARL Avdb moto
Address: 7 rue Gustave Eiffel, 31140, Aucamville, FR
Phone: 0033670222251
Email: cbr-fs(at)hotmail.com
Where Can I Find More Information About the Gen1 Fazer 1000?- Pats Motorcycle Page (http://www.cartestsoftware.com/fz1/index.html) is an invaluable resource.
- Our American cousins have some useful resources on their Owners Association (http://www.fz1oa.com/) site.
- Check out the this page (https://foc-u.co.uk/index.php?action=downloads;cat=4) for useful Gen1 and Gen2 downloads including service manuals and owners handbooks
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Been thinking about doing this for a while, any corrections or things to add?
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Top job PieEater. :thumbup
Maybe mention about the 7k tacho reading on the power valve paragraph?
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Top job PieEater. :thumbup
Maybe mention about the 7k tacho reading on the power valve paragraph?
Cheers and thanks for the suggestion I have added all the tacho codes.
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Great write up PieEater
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i want to add couple things lower leg adjusters if working fine cover in vasaline/grease as bitch when siezed up
also the large connecter block under left infill panel again seal with rubber glove or vasiline as these connecters corrode
check sprocket nut as has habit of undoing all by itself
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i want to add couple things lower leg adjusters if working fine cover in vasaline/grease as bitch when siezed up
also the large connecter block under left infill panel again seal with rubber glove or vasiline as these connecters corrode
check sprocket nut as has habit of undoing all by itself
Thanks for your input Luke - I have added the info on the white connector and the front sprocket.
The compression damping adjusters, I'm a bit dubious about putting grease on these as I think this will attract grit which could make the problem worse (is it trapped grit or corrosion that makes them seize?). Would it be better to suggest regularly using a bit of dry lube and turning the adjusters in both directions to make sure they don't seize up?
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Nice write-up PieEater.
Good info & particularly useful for new/potential for new owners.[size=78%] [/size] :)
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You forgot to mention a possible smell of wee. :lol
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You forgot to mention a possible smell of wee. :lol
Do you know what I was actually considering it but thought the target audience might not get it, or the reference to the blue ones being considerably faster / slower.
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I did mean the block connecter under left panel not one under tank
As the adjusters discussed corrode du to water salt etc it's the lesser of the 2 evils a smear gerase or vasiline will stop the corrosion and any particulates collected by the grease can be washed away with brake cleaner etc
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Locksmith not a really helpful comment as this thread is there for assistance, we all know the discussion comes from 600 riders wetting themselves at the thought of the mighty 1000 lol
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I did mean the block connecter under left panel not one under tank
As the adjusters discussed corrode du to water salt etc it's the lesser of the 2 evils a smear gerase or vasiline will stop the corrosion and any particulates collected by the grease can be washed away with brake cleaner etc
Thanks Luke, just to clarify is the connector you mean under the left panel by the seat or under the left fairing infill panel, I'm going with the panel underneath the seat but wanted to double check.
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Left inner fairing panel as you sit on bike connecter in question is clipped to fairing
Whilst on the subject of inner panels a lot break were the screw goes through this is due to over tightning simply slip a rubber tap washer underneath the panel this unless your stupid solves this
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Left inner fairing panel as you sit on bike connecter in question is clipped to fairing
Whilst on the subject of inner panels a lot break were the screw goes through this is due to over tightning simply slip a rubber tap washer underneath the panel this unless your stupid solves this
Done and thanks for the input.
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Excellent write up Pie Eater, just the job for potential Fazer 1000 buyers and/or owners unaware of these things :thumbup
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Brilliant write up, valuable information as a prospective buyers...thank you 👍👍
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Excellent write up Pie Eater, just the job for potential Fazer 1000 buyers and/or owners unaware of these things :thumbup
Thanks for that.
Brilliant write up, valuable information as a prospective buyers...thank you 👍👍
I'm pleased you found it useful.
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Great report, all sensible mods mentioned have been done on mine, after all these years..............what a bike still.
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It might be an idea to mention colours of bike and frame regarding age, as the gen 1 is getting on a bit and bodywork could get changed after a crash etc.. For example yamaha logo on tank up to 2003 then tuning forks 2003 on, colour of frame paint silver until 2003, then dark grey 2003 on, Fz1 import paint jobs are also different. Great write up been a long time coming for the newbies :)
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Yup- due to the age of the bikes, I'd have to mention ethanol attack of the carb o-rings and valve seats. Amazed thats not already here????
Caused me a lot of grief on trip to Black Forest. It started playing up on a tankful of Euro-ethanol shit, dropping onto 3 cylinders on the autobahn. The boys didn't know i was in trouble so i kept it pinned to try to keep up. Then when the 4th kicked back in now and again, it was interesting to say the least.
[/size]But eventually dropped onto 2 just as we got to hotel. Seemed like the 2/3 cylinder coil had gone down to me.
German garage got the bike going again (and hired me an MT09 - top bombing), but as I still wasn't happy, I booked it into BSD in Peterboghorror who finally nailed the problem. Ethanol rot of the carb rubber. Replaced all the seals, dynoed, set-up and now has a solid and genuine 126 rear wheel BHP and a completely linear throttle response.
When Mike fitted my full Monty, he mentioned it was a common problem, now worsened by increasing levels of ethanol.
If you buy one and they haven't already been replaced, you gotta budget for this, surely?
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Yup- due to the age of the bikes, I'd have to mention ethanol attack of the carb o-rings and valve seats. Amazed thats not already here????
First time I've heard of it which is why it's not on the FAQ. If you wanted to do a brief write up of the problem, causes and rectification measures I'll add it.
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High quality, informative article, be good to see these about all the Fazers, especially the FZ1S as I'm after one. Thanks
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Superb write up mate. I did wonder why mine has a manual cam chain tensioner. Very informative, thank you :-)
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Thanks chaps, will have to leave it to a Gen2 owner to step up and write a Gen2 FAQ.
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I only bought the bike a couple weeks back and I thought at the time " chains a bit slack, must tension that up a bit" never did do it, and reading your write up I can see now it's just how it should be. I'm starting to think the bike must have been owned by a foccer, before the feller I bought it off, all the signs are there, sensible mods and upgrades, exup in GWO, been well looked after and maintained.
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Thanks chaps, will have to leave it to a Gen2 owner to step up and write a Gen2 FAQ.
Wouldn't be very interesting, "same as above, but smaller fuel tank, so fucking useless really" :moon
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Hi - great information for new owners and some of them I've already come across over the years!
Maybe mention that a Meta alarm will likely be nearing the end of it's life and could require removal as the dead battery inside it is a non-replaceable item.
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Can I ask why there isn't one of these threads for the Gen2..?
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Can I ask why there isn't one of these threads for the Gen2..?
Because no Gen2 owners have had the time or motivation to make one :pokefun
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Because no Gen2 owners have had the time or motivation to make one :pokefun
I'm not a gen2 owner, but would like a list of all the things that i need to be aware off before considering becoming one.
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Because no Gen2 owners have had the time or motivation to make one :pokefun
I'm not a gen2 owner, but would like a list of all the things that i need to be aware off before considering becoming one.
Sure - the poke wasn't directed at you but the Gen2 owners out there that could put something together, you're not the first to ask the question and won't be the last.
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Don't know if it's been mentioned but can't seem to see. But my 2004 imported version does not have the hazard lights or the pass button for the lights
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Don't know if it's been mentioned but can't seem to see. But my 2004 imported version does not have the hazard lights or the pass button for the lights
This is an easy fix, just get the left have switch gear for a UK model. The 2x connectors should be there already to except the 2x plugs coming from the UK parts.
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Don't know if it's been mentioned but can't seem to see. But my 2004 imported version does not have the hazard lights or the pass button for the lights
This is an easy fix, just get the left have switch gear for a UK model. The 2x connectors should be there already to except the 2x plugs coming from the UK parts.
Thanks guys I have amended the import section accordingly.