Date: 18-04-24  Time: 21:27 pm

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Messages - Extremepie

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1
Thanks for all the help, bike now sorted out and running again! 


Huge thanks to the hugely knowledgeable Pat, aka unfazed, without whom this would have been a much longer and more painful experience.


All the best, now off to fill the tank up.


PS Pat, the relay circuits were fine, amazingly.  Fried two switches but the relay diodes were OK surprisingly.  Does anybody need a brand new starter cut out relay box?  Surplus to requirements!

2
The alarm is completely disconnected from the bike.

The wires you removed I presume were the Red/Black for the LED indicator the fused 12volt supply and the two earths?

The 15A fused alarm wire went to earth - it was piggybacked off the second smaller battery earth wire that has the single wire white connector.  It's removed and isn't in the connector block (but it can be if I need to anything with it)
The LED red/black is indeed completely gone, along with its return to earth. These two went directly from the led to the alarm i.e. weren't wired into the loom.
The alarm wire that energises at 12V with the ignition on is currently in position 'C' in my connector block.
There were three unused alarm wires that the installer simply bundled up and taped out of the way.
There were the three black (with olive green dots) wires that led to the rear of the bike and at the moment these are just taped and loose i.e. not in my connector block as I believed these to be surplus to requirements.

OK - as per instructions...
The blue /white on the starter solenoid is connected to the blue/white on the starter cut out relay connector block.  This has no connection to any alarm wire (I have checked all the alarm wires that were used including the fused one and the three going to the back of the machine)
The red/white wire on the starter solenoid is connected to the B/L wire (on your diagram) and the R/B Wire.  it is also connected to the 12V alarm wire. [/size]The neutral sky blue & sky blue/white is doing nothing - showing no connection regardless of gearbox position. Could I have fried the light and that's the problem, or is it just a separate indicator circuit?
[/size]Cheers


3
Hi
Yep - I'm a little limited here.  I can hook up any two wires and tell you the voltage between those points or the resistance across them.  I admit I was somewhat surprised by the variation, I'd expected a load of either open circuit or short circuit and got much more variation than I'd anticipated.

You are a lifesaver. 
Currently cooking chicken and chips for SWMBO so I'll realistically be coning back to this tomorrow.  Only thing is that it was somehow the trial and error linking on the alarm wires that messed up the neutral light, which was fine up to that point.  That's not happened through random wear and tear or anything like that.
FWIW - solenoid and starter are fine as I hooked it up directly earlier on.  Battery is OK.
Bike didn't fire at all so when starter wiresconnected manuallyI assume the fuel pump is not ticking over in current embuggered configuration, and or there was no juice to the HT system.
Starter button does act as a switch, based on previous diagnostics with it and the connector block under the tank but I am confused as why it's spring response has definitely changed (got spongier) at the same time the neutral stopped working.
All the best,


4
I have to upload these elsewhere - can you attach directly?  Anyway, thanks for any help.  here's what I've got, if you can shed any light that's brilliant.

https://gallery.mailchimp.com/1ea778ef893607ac2fb4c9af6/images/d3f1a010-4e41-4fe2-9c64-2a644be4cb76.jpg





5

Still having real problems with this.


On my connector block, taking A, B, C, D, E from left to right (I included the 12V wire at position C)


the left hand two wires (A & B) are not connected to the ignition connector under the tank at all, but both have a connection to the ignition relay.
The right most wire (E) is connected to the start button directly via the ignition connector under the tank
The inner right wire (D) has about 20 thousand ohms between it and two of the wires in the ignition connector so to all intents and purposes aren't connected.
The centre wire (C) that wasn't connected in the pic and has 12V on it when the ignition is turned on is connected to the kill switch and the brake light, but has a few ohms on it.


I have no clue what to connect to what here. 


The neutral green light still isn't working despite getting a new ignition relay.  Any ideas what else can be causing this?  it was working fine before my trial and error connections and blown fuse a couple of days ago.


Cheers

6
Thanks.  Will look at this tomorrow!

7
Hi  - Bike is 05 EU lights always on. 
If I've damaged the ignitor relay that's on me - I never blame anyone for my stupidity!  £90 all in will get a new one if I need it. I have a feeling I will need it.
Cheers

8

Hi -


Well I did look around online and ended up with a youtube vid suggesting it was straightforward.  I've actually seen it linked to on here too.  Nothing suggested you could make a right cock-up of other bits during trial and error diagnosis, but a recent thread from someone else here who had their bike stolen suggests that it's entirely feasible to end up with a buggered 5EB-81950-20 relay unit and non functional neutral light / system along with a blown 20A fuse. I did blow the 20A signal fuse (now replaced)  but the neutral light has ceased to function.


Anyhow, feeling suitably chastened, here's the current state of things. 


Alarm has been cut off.  All wires to the back of the bike ignored for the time being.  Presume they just operate the flashers during arming / if the alarm is set off.


12V wire found and terminated.  Earth wire found and terminated.


So I have 4 left, all in the choc block as shown.  One of them has 4.9V when the ignition is on.  The others are showing 0V.  I have made jumpers to diagnose them BUT with the neutral now messed up and the start button seeming to have less spring than it did I don't know what needs fixed first.


I have a multimeter and I can use it.


I have removed the 5EB relay unit thinking that it may be feasible to hot wire the terminations to get past the alarm connections and then replace the relay afterwards but don't know what to jump to where to do that.


Any help much appreciated!




9
Hi - great information for new owners and some of them I've already come across over the years!
Maybe mention that a Meta alarm will likely be nearing the end of it's life and could require removal as the dead battery inside it is a non-replaceable item. 

10
Hi All,
new here.
I have just removed the Meta M357T-V2 from my FZS1000 '05 and got safely as far as I could.  What I didn't realise was that I could bugger it up further by trying to find the right links for the ignition circuits.
I seem to have gone from a fully functional bike apart from the dead-battery alarm, (now removed) to one that is screwed.
The neutral light is not functioning, and the spring in the starter button has changed and has significantly less resistance.  I blew the signals 20A fuse when using trial and error to find the right links.
Someone here suggested that it could be the fuel pump, relay but I don't know what's really happened.  Any help out there?
Cheers,


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