Date: 19-04-24  Time: 22:53 pm

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Messages - darrsi

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8851
I forgot to mention Darrsi, even when i had my TPS fault code my bike was running fine, yes a slight flat spot in the rev range but nothing that would slow me down on a Motorway. Its been 3 days since i've replaced my TPS and the bike is running perfectly fine, no fault code, no nothing. I really don't think you have fault clocks buddy.

Does seem a bit of a coincidence about the jet washing though, i did give it a good blast trying to degrease the engine, and as it only showed the 0rpm on the clock this morning it's all a bit random, especially as Yamaha HQ said that 0rpm is not an error code on it's own.
It was my electronics engineer at work that suggested i may have water or condensation in my wiring somewhere that could be causing things to misbehave.
As the bike appears to be running okay at the moment i will try and get the bike up to temperature for a while and see if it helps at all?
It's offputting though as i can't keep my eyes off the rev counter, wondering what it'll do next.
Also i set the TPS to 5000rpm okay so in theory that should be alright.

8852
Right, i just spoke to Yamaha HQ and apparently there is no fault code just for 0rpm.
And he said if my TPS was faulty then the bike would be stuttering at low revs or simply cutting out.
 
They have suggested i might have either a wiring problem to my clocks or my clocks are on the way out?
This is not going to be fun solving this one  :'(   
 
It has just been brought to my attention that this problem started on the Monday after i jet washed the bike before spraying it on Sunday!!!
I think i'm gonna need to take the bike for a blast and get the engine hot, and also get some air flowing in case i have condensation in the wiring somewhere!

8853
FZS600 Fazer / Re: Fazer Rear left indicator
« on: 21 June 2013, 11:19:10 am »
I'd start by making sure the wire hasn't popped out first, take the seat off and look in the little compartment behind the brake light, i think they're just bullet connectors.
 
For just general service info the manual on here will be okay for your bike.
 
http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php?action=downloads;sa=view;down=22

8854
I understand that when your rev needle drops to 0 rpm three times in six miles it's a message from God telling you to go out on a Friday night and drink eight pints of strong beer, have a curry and see if you can score.

I had that one planned already!  :b

8855
 :groan
 
Okay, riding in to work this morning and the rev needle went to 0rpm three times within 6 miles but then quickly went back to normal speed, it never went to 3000rpm at all?
 
Any ideas what that could mean?

8856
FZS600 Fazer / Re: painting the matt black bits :)
« on: 21 June 2013, 06:05:23 am »
not bad, not sure if i would go as far as painting but back to black bumper spray makes it look shiney for a good couple of weeks for me, do rightly, but good job


That is similar stuff to the engine brightener spray that i used which caused havoc when trying to respray the engine, they're both silicone based which react with paint in a bad way!  :groan

8857
FZS600 Fazer / Re: Pull-away snatchyness
« on: 20 June 2013, 09:34:44 pm »
Sounds like you're just describing the chain tensioning on acceleration?
If you're saying the chain is adjusted correctly then being more gentle and controlling the clutch more should eliminate that.

8858
FZS600 Fazer / Re: My rev counter issue - 6000rpm
« on: 20 June 2013, 08:39:12 pm »
Do the check anyway, and see what it does:


Turn the ignition on (no need to start it),
Unplug the TPS, you may need a flat screwdriver to unhook it, i just used a key, it should go to 3000 then 0, then 3000, etc, indicating that it's either unplugged or knackered.
Then plug it back in and it should go straight to 5000
If it goes to either 0 or 10,000 then it needs adjusting




Mine was a bit random at first, bouncing between normal revs, then 0, then 3000 as i was riding it.
Then when i did the check it went to 10,000 which was all a bit confusing, but i've just adjusted mine back to 5000 and hopefully it should be fine now.
 

8859
FZS600 Fazer / Re: My rev counter issue - 6000rpm
« on: 20 June 2013, 08:08:03 pm »
Have you actually done the TPS check?

8860
FZS600 Fazer / Re: petrol in oil?
« on: 20 June 2013, 07:23:09 pm »
Mixing Mineral and Synthetic oils "...Here's the current thinking on the subject of mixing mineral and synthetic oils. This information is based on the answer to a technical question posed on the Shell Oil website:
There is no scientific data to support the idea that mixing mineral and synthetic oils will damage your engine. When switching from a mineral oil to a synthetic, or vice versa, you will potentially leave a small amount of residual oil in the engine. That's perfectly okay because synthetic oil and mineral-based motor oil are, for the most part, compatible with each other. (The exception is pure synthetics. Polyglycols don't mix with normal mineral oils.)
There is also no problem with switching back and forth between synthetic and mineral based oils. In fact, people who are "in the know" and who operate engines in areas where temperature fluctuations can be especially extreme, switch from mineral oil to synthetic oil for the colder months. They then switch back to mineral oil during the warmer months.
There was a time, years ago, when switching between synthetic oils and   mineral oils was not recommended if you had used one product or the other for a long period of time. People experienced problems with seals leaking and high oil consumption but changes in additive chemistry and seal material have taken care of those issues. And that's an important caveat. New seal technology is great, but if you're still driving around in a car from the 80's with its original seals, then this argument becomes a bit of a moot point - your seals are still going to be subject to the old leakage problems no matter what newfangled additives the oil companies are putting in their products..."

8861
All good now, once i put the rev counter needle back in the correct position i adjusted the TPS until it was back at the 5000rpm mark.  :)

Just one question, why does the TPS need adjusting anyway?
It was all done up very tight, so what creates the error code?

8862
FZS600 Fazer / Re: Giving me the needle
« on: 20 June 2013, 06:47:51 pm »
Sorted......i reckon the needle just dropped the right side through sheer gravity when i turned the ignition off as it did it when i had it apart as well.
Before switching off it was at the 10,000rpm TPS error code which is around the 2 o'clock position.

8863
FZS600 Fazer / Re: Knocking Through Foot Pegs
« on: 20 June 2013, 03:42:06 pm »
Yeah as Red says check alignment of the wheel.
If you look at each lower chain link carefully, see if any are at a slight angle rather than all horizontal, if there are any your chain has stiff links and will need either serious attention or probable changing.

8864
FZS600 Fazer / Re: Another Stutterer
« on: 20 June 2013, 02:22:02 pm »
Stick with the one's i said as i have them on my bike and know for sure that they'll be okay.
 
Glad to hear you got it sussed  :)

8865
FZS600 Fazer / Re: Another Stutterer
« on: 20 June 2013, 11:33:28 am »
I'm thinking of buying a replacement coil to hang in whilst fault finding. I believe a cheaper and better mod is to fit NGK plug caps to the leads. Can anybody tell me which ones i need to buy for my 600 2003. Also has anybody bought an aftermarket coil. Cheers John S

 
NGK SD05F, the straight ones.
 
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1x-NGK-Resistor-Spark-Plug-Cap-SD05F-red-8238-/230778918900?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item35bb7ed7f4#ht_2125wt_1199

8866
FZS600 Fazer / Re: STP Fuel Cleaner
« on: 20 June 2013, 09:31:39 am »
Half a bottle per full tank of fuel for full effect, over 2 tanks!

8867
FZS600 Fazer / Re: petrol in oil?
« on: 20 June 2013, 09:26:31 am »
I get the mayonnaise on my oil cap over winter as i'm only 6 miles from my work, it's just a mixture of oil and condensation that doesn't burn off as my bike doesn't hit full temperature in the cold weather.
It freaked me out when i first saw it as you understandably immediately think the worst.  :eek

8868
FZS600 Fazer / Re: Sanding Forks and maybe painting
« on: 20 June 2013, 01:10:23 am »
Remove forks, paint stripper, wet 'n' dry down, primer, silver spray, lacquer, sorted  :)

8869
FZS600 Fazer / Re: petrol in oil?
« on: 20 June 2013, 01:07:50 am »
10w/40 is 10w/40  :)

8870
FZS600 Fazer / Re: Giving me the needle
« on: 19 June 2013, 08:39:47 pm »
Cool, cheers Dude  ;)

8871
FZS600 Fazer / Re: Giving me the needle
« on: 19 June 2013, 07:25:37 pm »
No wont cause any problems. Happened on mine once and it just rotated back


So, d'ya think it's popped over/under the stop pin, or simply just dropped clockwise when i turned the ignition off because the 10,000rpm mark is over to the right side?


The engine was ticking over when i took the photo', the needle goes to about the 5 o'clock mark when switched off.

8872
FZS600 Fazer / Re: Giving me the needle
« on: 19 June 2013, 06:55:31 pm »
Everyone needs to back away from their tps's  :lol

You'll have to take the clocks off and take the cover off the clock and rotate it back around the other way by hand


Is that okay to do?
I won't snap anything will i ?

8873
In answer to a few questions posted
Darrsi, From what I have come accross the Suzuki ones will fit and I bought mine for a €15
The TPS is adjusted at idle at full operating temperature and if you adjust the idle screw after adjusting the TPS, the TPS will read incorrectly.
Set the idle first and then undo the secure torx bolts move the TPS until it is at 5 and tighten the bolts again. If it changes as you tighten readjust it.
Increasing the idle will send it to 10000, decreasing the idle will send it to 0. Adjust it at full operating temperature and idle speed set correctly. After setting the TPS open and close the throttle before resetting the ignition the rev counter should swing to 10000 and back to 5000.
Many people set the TPs and idle before the engine reaches full operating temperatures and then turn the idle up or down when at full operating temperature which put out the TPS adjustment.
It is the physical location of the throttle stop screw which determins the TPS setting. The increase in speed as the engine heats does not effect the TPS
The 3000 code indicates that the TPS is open circuit, there is no indication for out of adjustment. The ignitor expects a to see resistance not open circuit.
Hope this answers the questions.


The idle is spot on, in fact the bike is working okay, just the 10,000 code now, after i sort the needle problem out.
I would do it straight after work so the engine will still be hot.

8874
FZS600 Fazer / Giving me the needle
« on: 19 June 2013, 06:42:48 pm »
I checked my TPS earlier, and the needle shot up to 10,000rpm so i switched off and went back in to work, and borrowed the torx tool ready to sort it out when i got home.


Then as i left work i turned the ignition on and saw the needle stuck at 0rpm, so presumed that was part of the fault.


That's when i noticed the bloody needle has somehow popped under the 0rpm stopper  :'(

Question is, do these clocks come apart for me to get to the needle easily enough?
I haven't got time to look at it tonight but was wondering if anyone could point me (and the needle) in the right direction?


8875
FZS600 Fazer / Re: Had a bit of a spruce up
« on: 19 June 2013, 05:17:52 pm »

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