This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.
Messages - ponkster
1
« on: 03 September 2018, 11:04:13 am »
Don't put in heavy springs it will ruin the bike !
The clutch adjustment is best described as 'Fiddly' - the bottom adjustment takes a few attempts to get it bang on . The design of the clutch isn't great and even a well set up clutch with new springs, friction and metal plates can still slip when the oil is cold and you gun it !
Lots of people have put in all new clutch components only to find no improvement or it has even got worse (me included) - its easy to check the plates on this bike - if they have plenty of meat and they are not glazed up just persevere with getting the adjustment right.
3
« on: 15 May 2018, 09:23:20 am »
Only related to the plugs if you wacked the radiator taking the plugs out!
4
« on: 08 May 2018, 10:01:44 am »
Join a club - there must be one near Londonshire - London has everything - I mean - I hear the streets are pathed with gold !
5
« on: 07 May 2018, 08:55:42 am »
You are best using K+N oil to re oil it but the most efficient way to get the crud out of it first is to soak it in a bucket of hot water with biological washing liquid in it - I leave my filter in overnight , the rinse it under a tap - rinse from the inside of the filter to get everything out .
leave it to dry naturally ( on a radiator) - and as previously mentioned don't be temped to blow it through with an air line as it totally shags them !
6
« on: 30 April 2018, 12:51:43 pm »
7
« on: 29 April 2018, 08:13:00 am »
I think the problem is the washing - never ever wash my rat fazer and it runs great  - joking aside I did have an issue with the spark plug caps shorting in the wet , I cut them off and fitted good quality NGK ones and it ran great after that.
8
« on: 23 January 2018, 10:46:34 am »
I'd use Copydex. As you say, solvent-based glues run the risk of dissolving the foam.
PVA adhesives would probably work too.
Don't use copydex - this will break down in short time - it is a solvent based glue you need to use , you need a contact adhesive - spray or tube its up to you . I used Evostick impact from a tube which I got from B+Q but I would have used the spray stuff if they had some 1
9
« on: 17 January 2018, 10:55:41 am »
Seems to me Gender and Sexual preference/orientation are getting mixed up ! I you are born with male genitals .. well you are a man ( your gender) - where you choose or are compelled to stick your genitals "after dark" is your choice and defines you sexual orientation.
Some things in life are binary- You are either a Man or a Woman
10
« on: 09 January 2018, 03:13:39 pm »
Personally if the only problem is popping on over run and the bike is running well I would live it alone.
In my opinion many fazer riders have never cracked open the carbs and unless you have evidence to the contrary I would doubt anyone has changed the jets.
The nose of someone riding behind you is not a good measure of a bikes fuelling - a better measure would be the condition of the plugs and if the bike is running crap !
Aftermarket pipes often cause bikes to pop on over run , this can be exacerbated by air leaks in the exhaust system.
Feel free to tell me I'm talking shite and totally disregard my advice .
11
« on: 08 January 2018, 08:13:50 am »
I've got a loud pipe on one and a very loud on the other - don't get on too well with ear plugs but do force myself to use them on long motorway trips.
I found the foam ones had a habit of popping out mid journey - one in and one out is worse than none at all! Recently been using the rubber 'Christmas tree' type which have stayed in and seem comfy enough when I remember to put them in.
12
« on: 29 December 2017, 12:08:14 pm »
As a blue light driver I don't expect anyone to put them selves at risk for me to get through - crossing a red light is a big risk !
The one thing we want is drivers to be predictable in their reaction to us - often we will kill the horns as we approach if we can see it is gridlocked ahead - we also will inform control that we are making slow progress which will often prompt a duel turn out.
Its a bad bit of blue light driving if you fly up to a block of stationary traffic and sit there with all the sound on expecting everyone to shift for you - there are often better ways to get through gridlocked city junctions.
No good blue light driver should expect you to put your self at risk, break the law or even damage your vehicle by bumping up the kerb to let them through.
13
« on: 08 December 2017, 08:32:56 am »
I use a dry lube in the summer and a heavy application of chainsaw oil after every trip in the winter - it does fling off but in the winter its more about protecting the chain than worrying about the mess. Chainsaw oil is cheap enough to apply every time you ride.
14
« on: 29 November 2017, 09:20:58 am »
I did my rear shock conversion a long time ago before the R6 conversion idea was out there and the only inexpensive choice really was sticking on a shock from a fazer thou - it works well enough for me and is a massive improvement over the original.
There has always been expensive after market upgrades available but an Olin's shock would cost more than my wee fazer is worth!
15
« on: 29 November 2017, 09:06:40 am »
If rats make you smile just do it - nothing sacrilege about ratting a fazer , its not like you are chopping up an old Norton or some thing exotic . My 600 sat at the back of my garage being un used - as a rat its had a new lease of life !  Rattus side by ponkster45, on Flickr
16
« on: 25 August 2017, 08:32:55 am »
£50 on paypal as a deposit, the rest as cash. I don't even trust bank transfers or bankers drafts for larger sums.
That's my approach too - no cash no bike !
17
« on: 25 August 2017, 08:27:26 am »
I've never really understood the café racer thing. Each to his own I guess, but basically it appears to me you're just removing all the practical good bits and devaluing a classic bike. Fair enough if you've just crashed it mind! 
Ditch the air box and replace with air filters which are more expensive and difficult to set up and run optimally.
Remove the under-seat storage (toolbox, puncture kit, chain/lock and waterproofs gone).
Remove the fairing and any wind protection and comfort.
Fit clip on /dropped handlebars to create a less comfortable riding position.
Fit dinky indicators that no one can see.
Fit some dodgy radial oversized tyres and drop the forks to ruin the handling.
Then tell the insurance company about all the mod's and watch your premiums go up.
Some times you just got to live a little and embrace the need to take a grinder to it - not all fazers are polished classics . life is to short to worry about the practicalities of under seat storage - that's what amo boxes are for Rattus side by ponkster45, on Flickr
18
« on: 14 June 2017, 06:35:36 am »
by any chance do you remember what it came off - its pretty much what i would make buy if a few quid saves me a few hours then even better
Sorry cant remember - it has been kicking round in a box for years , the bike is made up of bits from boxes in my shed !
19
« on: 13 June 2017, 09:56:06 pm »
The hanger was taken off another bike, it is a rat but all the important bits are well maintained hence the gold Chan and blue dots. There are at least four different Matt black paints in use - truck bed paint on the tank , high heat on the engine , brushing enamel on bits and good old rattle can black ....oh yes the levers and the vin plate are still silver - see not all black
20
« on: 13 June 2017, 03:51:38 pm »
21
« on: 13 June 2017, 03:03:11 pm »
Are you sure you have the plates in the right order, especially the friction plate that comes after the anti-judder spring? This is a different diameter than ths rest. I had mine in the wrong place and my clutch coukd reach neutral but wouldn't disengage.
When you say the one after the spring is a different diameter do you mean thickness or the actual diameter of the 'friction plate disc' - I fitted my new friction plates and never noticed any odd ones .
22
« on: 13 June 2017, 02:39:04 pm »
I done a bad thing - people going to get all shouty and red in the face - welcome to 'RATTUS' 
23
« on: 13 October 2016, 11:07:32 am »
All still for sale - and all prices negotiable !
24
« on: 07 October 2016, 08:41:03 am »
Photos added - can add more of smaller parts if required
25
« on: 04 October 2016, 02:13:17 pm »
Having a clear out lots of bits for sale - if you are interested PM and we can work out the postage costs .
For sale:
Box eye fairing with puig double bubble dark screen , never dropped ,no cracks or splits, never repaired, currently Matt black base coat so could be painted any colour. £60 + postage - SOLD
Fairing infills - part and right, no cracks or splits ( from box eye fairing) mounting tabs still intact. £25 + Postage (for pair)SOLD
Alloy fairing mirror brackets £10 + postage
Fox eye mirrors in new condition (good aftermarket copy's ) £10 + Postage
Box eye original mirrors - OK condition with some scuffs at the ends £5 + Postage
Rear caliper brace arm £5 + Postage
Alloy fork caps with orings - good condition ( non adjustable type)£5 + Postage
Levers - clutch and brake from 98 boxeye ( adjustable brake and fixed clutch) £10+ Postage
Clip on bars - size to fit 600 fazer - got them for cafe racer project that never happened £10 + Postage
Pillion handle - later aerodynamic style used on foxeye £10 + postage SOLD
Indicator fairing converter plates - to enable use of smaller indicators with boxeye fairing.£5 + postage
Bar raising brackets with Allen bolts ( gives 30mm raise)£5 + postage
Exhaust end can - original factory fitted - good condition. £15 + postage SOLD
Photos available for all of the bits on request.
|
Show Posts
