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Messages - AyJay
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76
« on: 25 May 2016, 10:51:17 pm »
I repainted the engine last year http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php/topic,17483.msg201444.html#msg201444The Simoniz is excellent. Very easy to apply and once the engine has been run a couple of times to harden, very hard wearing. My top tips would be 1) Expect to take a couple of weekends preparation. If the front of the engine is a bad as mine was, it's a long and tedious job, but absolutely crucial. You want zero grease, grime and oil on any of the surfaces or it'll be a job wasted. 2) Masking up also takes a long time. I just used newspaper and masking tape. 3) Take the forks off. It's not hard and makes access a lot easier. Obviously the radiator has to come off too and you may as well repaint the engine crossbar while you're at it 4) Take the cam cover off and do it separately. I stuck mine in the oven to bake the paint on. 120 degrees for 20 mins 5) Actually painting it takes around 10 minutes per coat! I did 3 coats in the end. The results are bloody brilliant though. It's very satisfying once it's all back together and gleaming.
77
« on: 22 May 2016, 11:34:33 pm »
Haha! Maybe I missed a trick there.
Thing is, I do 38 miles of motorway each way every day and small engines just don't return the fuel economy. The big fellas do around 47 to the gallon at a steady 90 and even an ERF-6 I tried couldn't match that. I was pondering an MT-07 as they're supposed to be really good on fuel, but small tank.... The 1000s will do 164 to reserve and another 30 after that. And they are f. fast, of course!
78
« on: 22 May 2016, 09:40:20 pm »
Two Fazer thousands! Hooray! The one of the left is an '01 and it's done 149,300 miles and I've just bought the '02 on the right which has done a tiny 34,400 miles and feels like new to ride. I got it for a steal and was dreading picking it up as I hadn't even ridden it, but it time warped me back to buying the old beast 14 years ago. It feels pretty much like new to ride and really shows how baggy and arthritic my much loved original is. The only downside is sliver engine paint is in a state and the EXUP rattles like snake, but it's not like I haven't sorted those two problems out more than once in the last 14 years! But at the price, it was a no brainer. It was obviously a summer use only bike, and given it's only been doing 3000 miles a year it was probably a summer tourer for the last owner. Thing is, where am I going to garage the MT-10 I'm going to buy next year?.....
79
« on: 17 May 2016, 07:38:32 pm »
Thanks for that. They are very dim now and the main white connector on the LHS is full of verdigris. I'll be giving it some attention very shortly so I might slap a complete set of bulbs in while I'm at it.
81
« on: 11 May 2016, 09:09:11 pm »
My old Fazer's dashboard lights get dimmer every year. It's the corrosion in the wiring. I'd make sure your connectors right from the Reg/Rec to the dash are in tip top condition first, otherwise you're treating the symptom not the cause.
82
« on: 22 April 2016, 08:03:43 pm »
I just bought these swingarm pivot bearings along with a set of taper roller head bearings http://shop.marksman-ind.com/fzs1000-fa ... 0364-p.aspWay cheaper than Yamaha and jolly nice they are too. I really don't care how big they are though because someone else worked it out at Marksman and put them in a bag for me!
83
« on: 16 April 2016, 03:16:07 pm »
I have the Scottoiler touring mounted behind the number plate. Perfect.
84
« on: 16 April 2016, 12:11:51 am »
That's a lovely bike. Sell the wife and kids instead!
85
« on: 15 April 2016, 04:14:36 pm »
Yes, but you could also blow a normal battery up by mis-use too. Retrofitting is perhaps not the best idea, but I suspect manufacturers are only a couple of years away from fitting them as standard. The price is going down and there's a hell of a lot of electric and hybrid cars using them now, they're small and lighter and that makes a big difference on a bike. We might even get back some of that fuel tank capacity we've lost over the years. (vain hope!)
But at present, they're a bit of a pose. Just like fake carbon fibre....
86
« on: 14 April 2016, 10:23:10 pm »
For anyone else with the same problem, I've got a 70 quid chinese radiator on my Gen 1. It fitted fine and it's done a few thousand miles now and it's not leaked yet.
It is definitely not quality though. Very thin mounting lugs and seems to lack solidity. I did slap another 3 or 4 coats of paint on it before I fitted it, so who knows how long it will last.
I will be getting my old radiator re-cored by the local radiator specialist for when it goes west, and the prices aren't stratospheric, so have a word with your local guys (Serck are good and nationwide)
87
« on: 13 April 2016, 09:47:46 pm »
Interesting. Has anyone done a write up? Do you mean use the stanchions from the 1000 and the damping cartridge and fork lowers from the FZ6?
88
« on: 13 April 2016, 08:51:10 pm »
Ta. Sportsbikeshop, eh? I shall have a browse!
89
« on: 13 April 2016, 07:52:31 pm »
It's bang on the money, if you ask me, it's just the Dorset problem, I would imagine. If you were in Manchester or London, that would've gone already. I'd come and have a look right now, but I'm 300 miles away...
90
« on: 13 April 2016, 07:50:53 pm »
Yuassa's can be found online for £45 and Varta's for £40, I wouldn't pay £90 for one but I know sometimes desperate times call for desperate measures. You could get lucky with a cheaper battery but I personally wouldn't take the chance.
I was desperate. I was at work... the Yam dealer was just around the corner... Mind you, 45 quid is a damn fine price. Was that eBay?
91
« on: 13 April 2016, 07:49:50 pm »
Yes, I wouldn't go with 10wt oil again. It's far too harsh. The problem seems to be that the forks simply don't react to smaller bumps quickly enough. You can look down at the fork legs (straight road, no traffic please) and see them locked out on smaller bumps. But then, because of the soft spring, when you brake, they dive like a submarine. The way forward is definitely much much higher spring rate and maybe a small increase in fork oil weight. This makes the forks support the weight of the bike better. RavenRiders idea was to bring the compression of the air gap into play sooner which is why he increases it. That should help too.
The other problem is that the rebound is not very good, so when you let the brakes off the forks spring back too quickly too. I did try 2.5wt oil, but that made the rebound problem even worse, although it did make the ride softer. I've done quite a bit of testing and if my bike was young (so long ago!) and brand new to me, I'd definitely get them revalved. But I'm not spending 500 quid when it's done so many miles.
Ricky, I would strongly recommend a better rear shock as well. I have an Ohlins on mine and the difference it made is astounding. I just wish I could get the forks to feel that good, it just feels so well supported and supple at the rear with a proper shock.
92
« on: 12 April 2016, 11:13:00 pm »
I wouldn't pay the extra for a lithium battery but nor would I buy a budget battery for £30 as you tend to get what you pay for. I've usually gone for Yuasa or Varta and they have never let me down lasting at least 5 years with minimal maintenance required. Following good feedback I bought a Motobatt for my Gen1 which has been trouble free for the past couple of years.
You know what, I bought a Yuasa from the local Yam dealer and it packed up after a week, so while I was waiting for a replacement, I bought a 30 quid job from some car parts dealer. Well, guess what, 2 years later the damn cheapo battery is still 100% fit and the 90 quid Yuasa (dealer prices eh?) is sitting in the kitchen cupboard waiting to be fitted. Who knows, the cheap one might drop dead tomorrow, but it's done two winters and I could get 3 of them for the price of the Yuasa. It's good to have a spare ready though. I've also got a Motobatt on the other bike and that's been rock steady for 4 years. And when I say it's done two winters, it's sat at the train station in sub zero temperatures and only been ridden for 6 miles per day, hardly enough to keep it charged for the next start. I dare say it'll let me down at the most inconvenient moment, but if you only intend to keep a bike for a couple of years.. what the heck.Also, in Performance Bikes a few issues ago, they fitted a lithium battery to a big twin (Ducati I think) and they said that the lithium battery spins the engine up much quicker, a bigger initial thump as it were, which places less stress on the sprag clutch. Or summick. Anyway, that could be one good reason for going with a lithium battery, but I've seen the prices and thought.. er... no....
93
« on: 12 April 2016, 10:35:04 pm »
Yeah, I have tried the 10wt oil PieEater, but 10wt oil and the problem with the overly strong compression damping made the forks kick off transverse bumps really badly, even after I'd turned the compression damping right down. There's a fast road near here where tree roots have given the road corrugations and it was dreadful over those. My ZZR floats over that 1/4 mile of bends, so it was easy for me to see what good suspension should be like by comparison. I was considering doing the Raven Rider mod, but I ran out of time last year and I didn't fancy hacking the springs around. I increased the air gap as he suggested. Not a lot of difference, but the higher rate springs and slightly increase oil weight has helped a bit. That was the 4th rebuild and they feel pretty harsh and still dive. To be honest, my forks are now 148,000 miles old, so I'm onto a loser whichever way you look at it, but they are better than standard. By about 15%  . Busy saving up for an MT-10!http://www.yamahafz1oa.com/forum/showthread.php?t=31941
94
« on: 12 April 2016, 08:16:52 pm »
Hello! Welcome Ricky.
MCT, Brook Suspension, K-Tech, Reactive, Maxton, we're spoiled for choice in this country for suspension specialists. Ring a few and ask the same questions and you'll get an idea of the best way forward. They're all very willing to talk.
As for the best way forward, I dunno. Fazer forks aren't that easy to make a massive improvement to without revalving, so I'd say linear springs, at least 9.0nm and 7.5wt oil, but others will disagree.
The full revalve from K-Tech is going to be north of 500 quid these days....
I got this from Maxton when I enquired. It might help
YAMAHA FAZER 1000
FRONT
The forks on the Fazer 1000 are a very good pair of forks for general road use but do have problems. The springs are too soft which can cause the forks to bottom out under heavy breaking, this depends on your rider weight and again how hard you ride the bike, the big problem is they do not have enough rebound damping, which makes the forks spring back very quickly when you let go of the brake or accelerate, this causes the bike to run wide out of corners and makes the bike difficult to turn in to a corner. The forks also have too much compression damping which makes the bike kick off small bumps in the road. This problem can make the ride uncomfortable. We modify the forks fitting harder springs to suit the type of riding you do and also your rider weight, we also revalve the cartridges increasing the rebound damping and reducing the compression damping. We replace the existing hydraulic bumpstops with spring bumpstops, which eliminates the severe patter that occurs when the forks bottom out, this also gives the rider more feel mid-corner when pushing the front end. The fork conversion costs £250.00 plus worn parts : Seals £20 and Bushes £20. (ALL PRICES EXCLUSIVE OF V.A.T).
We have also found a problem with the internal damper cartidge wearing out on Fazer 1000 forks. We have had forks that have only done 5000 miles with worn cartridge tubes. Unfortunately Yamaha will not sell just the cartridge tube, you have to buy the complete damping assembly which is very expensive. We machine new cartridge tubes (only as part of a Maxton conversion) manufactured from hydraulic steel tube, which will never wear out. The replacement cartridge tubes cost £80.00 plus V.A.T per pair. if the tubes are not replaced there will be never be any damping in the worn area of the cartridge tube.
REAR
The standard unit on the Fazer 1000 is a fairly cheap unit. The damping inside the unit is not too bad it has the correct amount of compression and rebound damping, for the average rider weight. The spring however is too soft, this would cause the bike to sit down under acceleration, this would cause instability at high speeds. We can respring the unit and fit a harder spring to suit the riders weight, this costs £55.00 plus V.A.T. The unit is a sealed unit so the damping can not be improved, but for what the bike is being used for the damping is O.K. We also supply a replacement Maxton unit is a fully adjustable, alloy bodied, high pressure gas unit that adjusts via shim stack system. The unit has a spring to suit your rider weight and to suit what type of riding you do. The unit is suited to high temperatures because it adjusts via the shim stack not via a needle in a hole system like Ohlins or W.P unit. The unit costs £405.00 plus V.A.T but we also make a piggy back remote reservoir unit that has a second compression adjuster and ride height adjustment which costs £490.00 plus V.A.T.
We also supply tie bars to raise the rear ride height, this makes the bike turn a lot quicker and hold a better line out of corners. The tie bars coster £50.00 plus V.A.T p pair. The tie bars are anodised and engarved with the Maxton logo.
95
« on: 08 April 2016, 07:32:56 pm »
When the EXUP opens, the ignition timing changes. I think this is what makes it run so badly when the EXUP isn't working properly. It isn't gas flow that makes it feel so rough, that just lowers the power at low revs, it's the ignition.
Also, just so's you know the TPS causes a surging feeling and it feels like the bike is momentarily cutting out, but in a gentle way. The TMAX 500 scooter's TPS is a straight swap. I actually bought a rusted up and knackered set of carbs off a chap for £20 just for that one 140 quid part. If only he knew....
96
« on: 06 April 2016, 08:18:59 pm »
Anyone remember the 70s? You'd buy a two stroke and expect it to be utterly knackered by 15k. Even air cooled four strokes back then were 'high mileage' if they had 20k on the odo.
Isn't modern stuff wonderful?
Don't ever work out how much petrol though... oh alright, check my maths 150,000miles divided by 164 miles per tank, so that's 914 fill ups. Times 17 litres in a tank times the average fuel price of £1.10 a litre = £17103.65.
I've put 17 grands worth of fuel through those carburettors and they're still working perfectly ... quite a thought. It makes you wonder why we moan about the purchase price when the fuel alone costs that much.
97
« on: 05 April 2016, 07:48:37 pm »
98
« on: 29 March 2016, 07:44:07 pm »
I just used two nuts tightened together and then put the spanned on the rear nut.
99
« on: 27 March 2016, 09:18:44 pm »
I've had some Wemoto 'SlinkyGlide' cables on mine for about 40k miles. they work, but they're not quite up to the originals in terms of build. But 50 quid for 40k miles isn't too bad and they haven't broken yet, they just needed a lot of adjustment to begin with whilst they bedded in and stretched a bit.
100
« on: 27 March 2016, 09:16:19 pm »
Good work! Glad to hear it wasn't to drastic.
I bottled the drilling as I had a second set that had all three bolt heads snapped and took it to the the dealer. It just looked like a much bigger problem waiting to happen if I attempted it myself. Still, it was just as well I did because the rear bracket had a crack and it needed welding.
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