Twelve volts isn't enough to kill you. Might tingle a bit if you connected it across your tongue, but that's about it.

Another black one.
Definitely not as pretty as Louis' above or Born to be Mild's one on the previous page, but that's the result of 140,000 miles, plenty of winter use and an owner who doesn't think cosmetic problems are problems worth spending cash on.

Yes, it's entirely possible that the odometer is correct. Allowing for the time it's been stood that averages out at 13,000miles a year which is pretty easy to clock up if it was used to commute to work. It's roughly the age I swapped the engine out from mine, but I've heard of others that are still running on the original motor at higher mileages than that. How does the engine sound?

I've found valve clearances on the FZS600 to be amazingly stable. Check them by all means, but don't be surprised if they're in spec... mine still were at three times that mileage.
Nor would I expect low compression to result in those symptoms: reduced power especially at lower revs, difficulty in starting, backfiring (or even backfiring through the carb in the case of inlet valve leakage) would be more likely. If your tester has a valveless adaptor to get it to suit the small plug holes on bike engines then it will give a low reading... they're more useful for picking up on differences rather than absolute measurements.

A new set of plug caps may help, some NGK ones cleared an intermittent misfire for me, but it sounds more like the problem may be the carb slides no longer moving smoothly due to wear. My current set are giving similar results: a massive flat spot with plenty of power available again once you've coaxed it through. It's easiest to provoke by snapping the throttle fully open from cruising at 70-80mph, the sudden difference in pressure jams the slide against the grooves in the carb body and the diaphragm doesn't develop enough force to overcome the friction. Dri-Slide or even applying an 8B pencil to the grooves will relieve the problem for a while, long enough to prove the theory anyway.

More than one carb dripping suggests the source of the leak may be higher than the float valves, perhaps a crack in the T-piece where the fuel enters the carbs or a faulty O-ring at one arm of the "T".
But are you certain it's coming from the carbs? If there was a leak from that area it's hard to tally that with the fuel pump not ticking. I'd check the pump itself isn't leaking, the fuel may be running along the outside of the hose or dripping onto the carbs making it appear as if the leak is lower than it really is.

Valve clearances should be checked around that mileage. Other than that, fresh oil and a filter is all the engine will need. The clutch should be fine.
28,000 is nothing to the engine... it should last 4 times that mileage with regular servicing.
I'd lubricate the suspension linkages, swingarm and steering head bearings, change the oil in the forks and service the brakes if these items haven't been done recently. I had an OEM front disc warp at about that mileage, not something you'd want to happen during a descent of an Alp!

You might be able to pull the pushrod out without pulling the clutch cover off. If you can find a powerful magnet (such as one from a defunct hard disk drive) and touch it to a steel rod or crosshead screwdriver to extend the field and poke that in the hole it may be enough to tug the remains of the pushrod out, especially if you have the bike on the sidestand.
It depends on how clean the break is... if the end is too bent it won't work, but with luck it'll save you a gasket and some time.

Ah, don't fret about it Dead Eye... you've still got a great bike. Enjoy it enough and for long enough and the initial purchase price soon becomes insignificant. I estimate I've spent somewhere in the region of £4000 on tyres alone, add on the oil, filters, parts and that's already more than I paid for the bike new. As for petrol... can't be bothered to work it out on a year by year basis, but at today's prices it's guzzled more than 15 grand's worth.

If you've wired it so both filaments in the right hand bulb are lit when on main beam it'll be dissipating 115W in that side... I'd be a bit nervous about subjecting the reflector to that much heat, not to mention the increased current through the wiring.

Looks lovely, but where's the centrestand gone?


As for your headlamp rewire, am I right in thinking the rh dip is on even when you're on main beam?

Yes, clutchless up-shifts are fine... even first gear to second if you can co-ordinate foot and throttle accurately, but it's safer to do it in higher gears.
As for your clutch cable, change it if you suspect it's worn or frayed... otherwise there is a second adjustment under the plastic bung in the final drive sprocket cover if you just want to get the lever adjuster wound in a bit more.

cant belive you have never adjusted your chain in 10 years...do you get someone else to do it ?....for a lubricant i always use chain lube....engine oil is just going to fly off and make a mess of the back wheel

Chain wear has more to do with mileage than age, but I'd agree with the Major that (new) engine oil works well. The slow drip from my Scottoiler means it's always lubricated and the old gritty stuff flings off. Sure some of it gets on the back wheel, but being oil rather than sticky goop it cleans off much easier than the chain lube I used to use. I typically get 40,000 miles from a chain since buying the oiler... it means it's paid for itself as well as making the bike easier to clean.