This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.
Messages - Fazerider
Pages: 1 ... 74 75 [76] 77 78 ... 89
1876
« on: 19 May 2012, 08:33:20 am »
errr... ok.  At least with the bike limited in range to the length of your mains extension lead the police will be less likely to quibble about the indicators being the wrong colour.
1877
« on: 17 May 2012, 12:44:49 pm »
Hi Matthew, and welcome to the forum.
Assuming the bulbs haven't freakishly failed at the same time, have a look in the connector box under the tank. Check all the connectors that go to the left handlebar for corrosion. If they're all good and tight it may be poor contact in the switch itself... usually best to dismantle it, but squirting some WD40 in through the drainage holes underneath and giving the switch some exercise might clear it if you're lucky.
1878
« on: 16 May 2012, 01:56:42 pm »
Cable trapped when the sprocket cover was last screwed down?
Don't think it would cause an MOT failure, but I'd tape over the light with black insulating tape or take the bulb out if you can't find the cause before the test. (Believing you're in neutral when you're actually in gear being more likely to cause an accident.)
1879
« on: 16 May 2012, 01:45:32 pm »
Interesting article.
Kind of points the finger at break-in technique rather than the calipers as being the cause of your problem doesn't it?
1880
« on: 15 May 2012, 10:50:32 am »
Mine's the same. I think the OE clutch springs are a bit marginal, but the only after-market ones I could find were about twice the stiffness and made riding in London traffic almost impossible.  OE on the right: thinner material and more turns. Even if I had had the hand strength to operate the lever easily I don't suppose the clutch basket would have taken the strain for long. As for what's going on in the clutch, I guess you're experiencing stiction. Once it starts slipping it tends to continue, back off for a second and the plates and friction material can lock back together, re-apply power and the surfaces stay locked because the heat you put into the surfaces the first time has thinned the oil enough. The cable may be slightly slacker after enthusiastic use of the bike because, if you get the clutch hot enough, thermal expansion of the stack of plates (plus pushrod) is more than that of the engine casings.
1881
« on: 15 May 2012, 09:56:33 am »
I'd take it for a spin to get it warmed up then let it idle for a couple of minutes.
Switch off and, once it's cool enough, check the plugs (the idea being to see if the bike's running rich when the throttle is closed).
If some are sooty it'll point to a carburettor problem: possibly a faulty choke plunger or slow-running needle/jets that need adjustment. If that is the case I'd recommend you take it to a qualified mechanic: inexpert fiddling with carbs can easily convert them from "almost OK" to useless.
1882
« on: 14 May 2012, 08:23:00 pm »
DeadEye is correct.
However, I feel we may be wandering up a blind alley here. A blocked breather causing a vacuum in the tank would be likely to starve the bike of fuel when running, not cause starting problems.
It would be good to know what the symptoms are.
You started this thread by asking whether the starter relay could be to blame... is that because it isn't turning the engine over? If so, we're looking for an electrical problem.
If, on the other hand, the engine spins on the starter and doesn't fire we're looking for something else. Reluctance to fire up when hot is often due to too rich a mixture caused by a clogged air filter or the owner employing the choke lever unnecessarily, for example.
1883
« on: 13 May 2012, 07:24:55 pm »
I've never had one.
Currently on my fourth rad, but a guard wouldn't have made any difference... corrosion and a SMIDSY put paid to the previous ones.
1884
« on: 13 May 2012, 07:18:57 pm »
... if there was a seal/rad/hose leak I suppose it would be leaking on the floor overnight??
Had the rad spring a leak on mine last winter. Never noticed any drips on my garage floor, presumably they'd evaporated and the hole was small enough that the flow stopped once the bike had cooled. Was only aware something was amiss because of the smell every time I parked up after riding. 
1885
« on: 13 May 2012, 06:58:41 pm »
Engine swap is pretty straightforward, just a lot of disconnecting and moving things out of the way. Ideally you'll have a friend on hand to help with manoeuvring the lump out (of the right-hand side of the frame), but it can be done single-handed if you've enough bits of wood to use as wedges and levers.
Brakes. Yes, as Red suggested, clean up the calipers. They may need new seals.
1886
« on: 13 May 2012, 12:05:35 pm »
If the engine is getting spun by the starter motor but not firing, it's not the starter relay that's at fault.
If the starter motor isn't turning the engine over then yes, possibly. It could also be a lot of other things such as a dodgy killswitch or sidestand cut-out, poor connections or a duff battery.
1887
« on: 13 May 2012, 09:09:06 am »
Hard to give a definitive answer without seeing them, but it probably won't be a problem.
So long as the discs aren't developing deep grooves, worn to the thickness limit or warped (which would be obvious at the lever as a loss of braking effectiveness), a few rust pits won't concern the tester.
1888
« on: 12 May 2012, 07:36:26 pm »
Are you sure they need replacing?
They may look split but the material is quite thick and the cracks take a very long time to get all the way through.
If yours really are leaking, try smearing some of black silicone sealant into the cracks as cheap alternative to replacement.
1889
« on: 12 May 2012, 04:00:29 pm »
That's an interesting idea.
Mine are in need of an overhaul and I wondered about your gold valve mod, but didn't fancy weakening the damper tube.
YZF fork travel looks to be the standard 5.1".
Can't see any on eBay at the moment though.
1890
« on: 12 May 2012, 02:05:42 pm »
Give or take a couple of millimetres, 755 mm.
1891
« on: 12 May 2012, 01:38:18 pm »
The noise is likely to be the starter relay dropping out when the battery is presented with the large electrical load of the starter motor. If the battery is OK, then the problem may be loose or corroded connections between the battery. Check everything is clean and tight.
1892
« on: 12 May 2012, 10:55:11 am »
Really? You can drink lots of beer? Well done you.
1893
« on: 10 May 2012, 06:54:01 pm »
I suppose a useful question to ask might be "What do you intend to photograph?".
Ultra long focal lengths aren't particularly useful in my experience. Unless you're a paparazzi photographer or intending to specialise in taking grainy images of shy wildlife I doubt you'll make much use of lengths greater than 100mm (35mm equivalent).
From a personal point of view, I'd go for the Canon or Panasonic amongst your shortlist. They're lighter and have the ability to take longer exposures... if I had to pick one over the other it would be the Canon for the ability to focus manually.
1894
« on: 09 May 2012, 11:23:27 am »
Tom, I'd agree with pretty much all the advice you've been given here.
A one-in-a-lifetime trip like that deserves to be recorded at the best possible quality. For all their clever facial recognition technology and cunning image processing algorithms that correct for lens aberrations and try to "paint" out the noise in the picture, the results from a compact or bridge camera are pretty poor compared to those from a camera with a decent sized image sensor.
Add some cash of your own to the pot or buy secondhand, but aim for something with a 4/3 sensor.
1895
« on: 08 May 2012, 12:54:36 pm »
Puzzling.
14V at idle sounds fine from the point of view of the charging circuit, but the voltage shouldn't drop as the revs increased, unless you also turned on the headlight. What was the battery voltage before you switched on the ignition?
It could be that the regulator detects the battery is duff and crowbars down to a lower voltage for protection, but I can't really see the point of making one that clever. Best thing is probably to buy a new battery and check how it behaves with a good 'un.
1896
« on: 07 May 2012, 12:16:14 pm »
Easy with a good battery, just look for volts rising as you bring the revs up. Should level out at about 14V when the regulator kicks in and dissipates any excess as heat. At middle of the rev range it ought to be able to maintain the battery voltage at that level even with the headlight on.
With a dead battery, not so easy to judge. You should at least be able to see some rise in voltage.
If it gets much over 14V the regulator has packed up in which case it'll kill a new battery. (You'd probably also notice lights being rather bright and the pong of boiling battery.)
1897
« on: 04 May 2012, 01:16:51 pm »
What's the tech term for the small box with the gauze in it ?
First aid kit. 
1898
« on: 04 May 2012, 11:50:06 am »
Congratulations Tori!
1899
« on: 03 May 2012, 06:48:49 pm »
One of the most important checks to make is sure the gearbox is OK.
The FZS600 is prone to knackering the dogs on 2nd gear particularly if it's been ridden by someone with a lead foot. Test ride the bike, or get a friend who's some experience with bigger bikes to do it for you. When changing up into second and giving it the beans you should be rewarded with brisk acceleration... if it drops out into a false neutral and the revs go sky high, walk away.
1900
« on: 03 May 2012, 08:56:48 am »
It'll be fine, though you may find you need to adjust the flow rate control if it's viscosity is slightly different.
Or you could do what I do, use cheap car engine oil instead of the overpriced stuff from Scottoil.
Pages: 1 ... 74 75 [76] 77 78 ... 89
|
Show Posts