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Messages - mickvp
Pages: 1 ... 83 84 [85] 86 87
2101
« on: 04 July 2013, 05:51:35 pm »
Sorry Simon, having looked at how it works it's not going to work out. I thought the option was to opt into censoring, however it is to log out of it. This means that everyone will have their posts censored and there would be endless "why are my posts being censored" threads. I've had a look and there are no modifications to change this. Maybe in a future version it will be available.
not so, the censor is applied to the forum theme/skin in SMF, and so you would only need a theme/skin (which could be a carbon copy of this one) with the censor option turned off and so users could either opt in or out depending on the theme they select? http://www.simplemachines.org/community/index.php?topic=483367.0Also, im not sure how it works exactly on SMF, but on the vbulletin forum I use, its possible to only have a word censor applied to certain usergroups, so you could also make an opt-in usergroup which disables the censor on a per user basis, but SMF may work in a different manner, which, if going by the theme censor option mentioned in the link above, it does.
2102
« on: 04 July 2013, 05:47:49 pm »
i own an ipad myself. and as much as its simplicity and versatility is great. the android device (either nexus 10, or galaxy tab 2) is probably a better fit for your parents.
Especially if you want to connect it externally, as far as im aware, this is not possible with the ipad, without perhaps buying apple tv as well?
2103
« on: 04 July 2013, 06:27:16 am »
does the noise go away if you pull the clutch in?
does it change pitch/get louder the faster you go?
does it matter which gear you are in?
2104
« on: 04 July 2013, 04:21:34 am »
things like this dont bother me so much. someone has obviously bought the bolts and its trying to make a few bucks off them (ebay fees are 10%, and paypal takes another few % AFAIK, so the cost would need to go up accordingly). people will either pay the extra or wont, and if they wont, then sellers like you linked to would stop selling. No, what really winds me up is second hand items which people bid on, and then bid the price right up, till it costs more than a new one! I just dont get that mentality whatsoever, and its fairly common as well 
2105
« on: 03 July 2013, 07:06:46 pm »
Was interested in the Fazer, found the owners' club, and that convinced me to buy one! 
+1
I was going through the "Bandit/Fazer/Hornet, first big bike" question. Found this forum and was convinced after a few days, never looked back.
+2, still not passed my "big" test yet, but was havering between the bikes mentioned above (with the addition of the SV650), and while looking around i stumbled onto here. Since this site is full of sarcastic bigot homophobic racists. im home!
2106
« on: 03 July 2013, 08:25:42 am »
I know i did state no offers on this, but dont be afraid to make an offer. i NEED to sell it as its no use to me whatsoever now, so all I can say is no! 
2107
« on: 02 July 2013, 09:00:33 pm »
Pretty slow on tapatalk tonight too, although I thought it was my internet signal.
2108
« on: 02 July 2013, 08:20:57 am »
yes, very much so. Most regular polishes will be fine for your helmet. be careful with the visor though as some products can react with the polycarbonate and cause cloudiness (not an issue with the helmet itself due to the lacquer). I assume you mean hand polishing, and not via a rotary or DA polisher? in which case there shouldnt be a problem. If your polishing with a machine you need to be careful of your removal rates as plastic removal rates are significantly higher than metal rates, so a strikethrough can happen more easily. Or in short. Yes. Whatever your using on the car should be fine
2109
« on: 02 July 2013, 03:40:03 am »
I hope this is OK to put in here, I'm selling my Nolan N-com basic 2 kit. I bought this only last week as a precurser to buying the accompanying Bluetooth add on for it, however when it is fitted to my helmet it make my already snug helmet unbearably so, and so I've removed it after only switching it on to test it. I've still got the box, all bits and the instructions, and I believe this will fit all ncom helmets that are from model numbers : N42, N42E, N43, N43AIR, N43E, N43E AIR, N71, N85, N86, N90, N91, N102, and N103. It may fit others, but these are all listed on the Nolan site. This kit cost me £50 to my door, and I would be willing to part with it for no less than £30 delivered (buyer must pay PayPal fees if using PayPal). A good chance to grab a bargain it your a Nolan helmet user. I can post some pictures of it before I pack it all back away into the packets, but as I say, its in as new condition. I've advertised this elsewhere too. Thanks for reading, ill do my best to answer any questions, but I've never ridden with it in, so I've not even properly used it yet 
2110
« on: 02 July 2013, 03:30:31 am »
Lots of good pictures there. I voted for Tori though, that first picture is excellent, very well composed
2111
« on: 30 June 2013, 11:44:51 pm »
You could try some diluted IPA to remove it, but I would just wait and save the hassle, the gloss enhancers will wash off on their own over time
2112
« on: 29 June 2013, 11:25:01 pm »
This is a flaw with tapatalk. If you login, and read some, but not all of the "unread" posts. Once you logout, all the others are marked as "read", regardless of whether you actually read them or not. Then next time you login you will see all unread posts from the point you were last logged on. Its not just with this forum either, of does it with all forums I visit, and always has 
2113
« on: 29 June 2013, 07:56:06 pm »
I would treat my textiles and visor,
job jobbed.
well if thats all you want it for, there are already suitable products on the market for this. you have Gtechniq I1 for treating fabrics:
And As I displayed recently in a video for Simon.Pieman on here, you have both Gtechniq C5, and CarPro HydrO2 which are suitable for the helmet & Visor :
Job Jobbed
2114
« on: 28 June 2013, 01:44:58 am »
Not much fun trying to keep up with a 600 or 1000 on a 125, (or having a 125 hold you up if your on a 600, or 1000)so as the dragons say...I'm out
2115
« on: 27 June 2013, 10:45:23 pm »
I did not pick up if it was safe to use heat. Any ideas
Daz
Its silica based, which is also the same compound which is superheated to make glass, so I would say it should be safe to use on exhausts etc. I've certainly used a similar product, car pro HydrO2 on my engine and exhaust with no ill effects, however I've never checked how detrimental the heat is to the longevity of the product, its still streaming water after a month, so its not THAT bad. Id be more concerned about the longevity of this product, yes, its $20 a can, and will somewhat waterproof your items (although if you drop an iPhone in the toilet, it will not protect it indefinately), but it also doesn't state how long this product lasts. It will need reapplied now and again, obviously , so how often? Yearly? Then yes a good purchase, weekly? Not so much... I would also be interested to know what marr resistance properties this coating has, as it is a "physical" coating (there has to be something there to stop the stuff getting wet?), does it mask scratches, fill them, protect against them? Very interested to get my hands on some of this personally. Hopefully its not all marketing BS and there is a viable product there to back the bold claims it makes up.
2117
« on: 26 June 2013, 05:34:20 pm »
Ive been trying to find a good solution for this as well. what about something like a Lidsafe?
2118
« on: 26 June 2013, 05:24:19 pm »
all you can do is go back down, keep calm and stand your ground. if you get a whiff they dont want to do it, I would consider mentioning that you have been to your local citizens advice bureau and have been advised to see trading standards? a bit extreme maybe, but it might be worth blagging it on the off chance.
2119
« on: 25 June 2013, 11:28:15 am »
Who is this mike character? I do agree with exup mate, you should at least ask them to rectify the damage first, if they chase you, well, you'll be no worse off, but If they own up they may pay for someone else to polish it up, or do it themselves. And if they mess THAT up, having already admitted fault, you can get it resprayed at their cost (after giving them three I believe chances to rectify the damage). Worth asking anyway, saves you a long and arduous t cutting job.
2120
« on: 25 June 2013, 07:35:26 am »
Whilst I wholeheartedly agree in principle with what you are saying, I know what the response would be from any local hand wash around here. And the eastern European ones look at me like I'm a weirdo when I go in during winter and pay them to wash my car myself with my own stuff
2121
« on: 25 June 2013, 06:44:34 am »
I'm with Carole Nash, who beat everyone else (no NCD though)
2122
« on: 24 June 2013, 11:59:36 pm »
Just remember not to brush your teeth with it in the morning 
This too ^^^ very sage advice there
2123
« on: 24 June 2013, 11:59:03 pm »
Keep the pressure down! Its far to easy to put too much force into a toothbrush and strike through, but sometimes you have to use this method as a typical applicator just won't fit. Its always better to use light pressure for longer than lean too hard and your unknowingly horsing off lots of paint. Engine lawyer is typically fairly thick so a strike through is pretty unlikely, but I always advocate being careful. Even do one light hit and see if another is required. Once you've done one section, you will get a feel for the correct technique. And rinse off the brush between sections too to stop you carrying any contaminants across. Other than that the process is more or less the same as normal Take pics and let us know how you get on 
2124
« on: 24 June 2013, 11:14:13 pm »
Peanut butter will probably help mask it, but its not a permanent solution.
It looks like a reaction caused by some strong TFR or even an acidic wheel cleaner. This will probably have caused some acid etching on the paint (Japanese paint is notoriously soft).
Your best bet to permanently remove it will be to polish it out with a proper cutting polish, with a diminishing abrasive in it (t cut, farecla g3, menzerna po85rd etc). Polish the large areas with a soft applicator pad and medium pressure, and work the polish thoroughly to break down the Polish and remove micro marring. For the cooling fins etc, work it with a toothbrush to get right in, again work it thoroughly. Then remove the excess polish with some old rags etc and buff up (if there's visible excess, your using too much!).
2125
« on: 24 June 2013, 03:39:38 pm »
Wow, very good information there guys, that's cleared that up definately then Thanks very much
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