Date: 22-10-17  Time: 11:14 AM

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Messages - Fazerider

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1
FZS600 Fazer / Re: Battery keeps dying
« on: 19 October 2017, 04:19:56 PM »

There are three possibilities:
1. As already suggested, something’s draining it while parked.
2. You bought faulty batteries (it happens).
3. There’s a fault in the charging circuit.


It’s hard to guess which of these is the problem until you get a voltmeter across the battery and take some readings with the bike off and then with the engine running.

2
General / Re: POLL: Whats the average age of Fazer Owners ?
« on: 19 October 2017, 11:35:24 AM »
Another old git here.
I think you need to increase the range of the poll answers a bit if you want an accurate figure for average age. :lol


And I'm a long term owner too, mine (bought new) is coming up for its 19th birthday in a few weeks.  :)

3
Fazer8 / FZ8 / Re: Fazer8 brake vibration
« on: 18 October 2017, 11:07:26 PM »
If it happens when stationary I can only think it's a faulty ABS.

4
FZS600 Fazer / Re: lights out!
« on: 18 October 2017, 11:24:01 AM »

I’d take a good look at the wiring near the ignition switch, as the steering turns the cable bundle flexes slightly so it’s a popular spot for a wire to break.


The second area to check is the boxful of connectors under the tank, make sure all are clean and making good contact. With a high-current load such as lights there is a good chance a bad contact will have heated up the joint making it easier to spot.

5
Events, Meets, Ride outs etc / Re: the david silver honda collection
« on: 18 October 2017, 09:50:18 AM »

I recall using Dave Silver Spares once or twice in the early 80’s for hard-to-find spares for my CG125, didn’t realise he was still going let alone that he has such a collection.
Ah, the Never-Ready 750… who’d have thought oval pistons would be a technological dead end? :rollin

6
FZS600 Fazer / Re: Strong gusts
« on: 17 October 2017, 02:42:50 PM »
Fazerider - fantastic photo... You've captured that beautifully
I was trying to take photos of the "strange lighting", but my mobile just couldn't replicate that in the Pics (Samsung Galaxy S7).
[/size]
Thank you. :)
A lot of mobile phone cameras "auto white balance" which works well most of the time: photos taken indoors or outside look reasonably natural. But if the whole scene is one colour the result will come out white even if it should be blue or red or yellow.
If your phone has the option you could have set the white balance to "daylight" which would have shown the orange lighting rather than trying to make it look right.


Where was this photo taken?
Looks like the camera is aimed towards Harrow?
It's looking south from White City towards Shepherds Bush. The ever-expanding Westfield to the left of pic, Television Centre (now a hotel and apartment block) is to the right.

7
FZS600 Fazer / Re: Strong gusts
« on: 16 October 2017, 11:15:01 PM »
This was the weird sepia effect in West London this afternoon... and so dark I had to hold the camera on a post to get a blur-free pic.
Still, it was nice and warm and the ride home was only slightly breezy. Some of the forecasts for next weekend look a bit more ominous (well, for the south-east anyway).



8
General / Re: Bargains?
« on: 09 October 2017, 04:05:54 PM »
Firstly, do they even need threadlock, 'cos i seriously cannot imagine them ever coming loose if torqued properly?
And secondly, as the disc is being changed, would it not be a great idea to take the bike for a spin and use a lot of rear brake, because that will heat all the disc bolts up anyway!
Agreed, threadlock is not necessary in my view. I've used Copaslip when I change the discs and they haven't unscrewed themselves.


As for the rear disc heating the screws and wheel hub, it just doesn't.
Well, no more than a few degrees anyway.
Steel is a lousy conductor so most of the heat is lost to the air directly from the disc. What little does get there is then distributed rapidly through the whole wheel (aluminium is an excellent conductor), so it never gets the bolts any more than tepid.

I can totally understand manufacturers using thread lock, they're simply covering their arse in the very unlikely event that a bolt might unscrew, plus they don't have to remove the buggers either so probably smear plenty of the strong stuff on it too.
It's quite possible the disc I tried removing was the OEM one so maybe that's why it was so difficult?
I think some types of threadlock continue to get stronger with age. Front discs are less of a problem because they wear out quicker, but the rear can easily be 15 years old before it needs changing. That also gives plenty of time for moisture to creep in and cause corrosion.

9
General / Re: Bargains?
« on: 09 October 2017, 01:17:05 PM »
 
Firstly, do they even need threadlock, 'cos i seriously cannot imagine them ever coming loose if torqued properly?
And secondly, as the disc is being changed, would it not be a great idea to take the bike for a spin and use a lot of rear brake, because that will heat all the disc bolts up anyway!
Agreed, threadlock is not necessary in my view. I've used Copaslip when I change the discs and they haven't unscrewed themselves.


As for the rear disc heating the screws and wheel hub, it just doesn't.
Well, no more than a few degrees anyway.
Steel is a lousy conductor so most of the heat is lost to the air directly from the disc. What little does get there is then distributed rapidly through the whole wheel (aluminium is an excellent conductor), so it never gets the bolts any more than tepid.

10
General / Re: Moto Guzzi
« on: 09 October 2017, 09:39:53 AM »
There's a manual http://www.thisoldtractor.com/mg_manuals/workshop_manual_lodola_gran_turismo_235cc.pd


Cant find a manual on that website but thanks. It'll probably be in some foreign language anyway!! lol

Link works OK if you add an f on the end.  :)
But yes, you'll need to learn Italian.

11
For Sale & Wanted / Re: For Sale 2003 Fazer 600, Blue
« on: 06 October 2017, 06:47:04 PM »


They are correctly positioned. Well, almost, the edges should be in front of Plugs 1 and 4.
The bottom edge should be on the front rocker cover to stop water draining into the plug holes
That's where I've got mine,  It done seem a bit illogical to fit a pair of rubber flaps specifically to channel water straight onto the spark plugs.

It’s intended to keep the high tension wiring and plug caps dry. Rainwater hitting the rubber flows down to the base of the wells where it drains through the holes at the side of the cylinder head.
Fold the flap up on top and the water can’t flow forwards because that’s where the airflow is coming from. So it flows up the curve and blows round the sides spraying the plug caps and wiring.

12
For Sale & Wanted / Re: For Sale 2003 Fazer 600, Blue
« on: 06 October 2017, 06:29:20 PM »

They are correctly positioned. Well, almost, the edges should be in front of Plugs 1 and 4.
The bottom edge should be on the front rocker cover to stop water draining into the plug holes
Yamaha doesn't agree.

13
For Sale & Wanted / Re: For Sale 2003 Fazer 600, Blue
« on: 06 October 2017, 03:17:50 PM »
Good spot on the craps flaps....although it doesn't go out other than when it's dry. I'll move them back into position....Cheers
They are correctly positioned. Well, almost, the edges should be in front of Plugs 1 and 4.

14
FZS600 Fazer / Re: Replacement radiator
« on: 05 October 2017, 11:23:26 PM »
I have just been down the Chinese radiator route and now encountering these problems.

Could you do away with not attaching the water pipes to the frame?

As you have spaced the pipes out did you need longer bolts? What is spacing the pipes just washers?

I didn’t consider the idea of leaving the pipes hanging. I think it might strain the ports on the radiator if they’re free to wobble about. If Yamaha could have got away with saving a few brackets and bolts they would have done so.


Yes, the original bolts were too short to include spacers. IIRC they were pretty corroded anyway. The spacers were some I happened to have… drilled out nuts will fill the gap, though a load of washers will do if you’ve enough.

15
FZS600 Fazer / Re: Fuel tank capacity on FZS600 Foxeye 2003
« on: 05 October 2017, 09:00:15 AM »
Thank you gentlemen- 22 litres it is or 4.8125 imperial Gallons.


Shit I just thought of something that is a lot of weight up high when the tank is full, I assume that petrol and water are a similar weight and water is 10.2 lbs a gallon, that's 49 lbs in weight up really high on the bike, that will make a huge difference if the bike gets away from you when manhandling around tight obstacles. :eek

Petrol is about 3/4 of the density of water so a tankful will be about 16 kg (or 35 lb if you like archaic units).
But you’re right, it does make a big difference particularly if you’re not very heavy yourself. I certainly notice the change in handling and acceleration after filling up… and I’ve dropped the bike twice in the past year, both times while manoeuvring (dismounted) with a full tank. It makes it a bastard to pick up again too.

16
FZS600 Fazer / Re: Fairing Removal
« on: 04 October 2017, 06:47:27 PM »
I guess the ones you've missed are the two bolts at the bottom of the headlamp subframe.
You should be able to see them OK with the infill panels out of the way.
Don't forget to disconnect the indicators. :)

17
General / Re: VED rip off
« on: 04 October 2017, 06:33:44 PM »

I’ve always preferred the idea of ditching VED and putting the tax on fuel.
The difficulty is that it’d hurt those less well-off who have to drive a lot of miles and can’t afford a newer vehicle, while wealthy folks who want to drive big thirsty cars won’t give a damn about an extra 10 pence on a litre. VED allows the government some flexibility in targeting big polluters… though to judge by the latest rates, their aim isn’t very good.

18
FZS600 Fazer / Re: Over wintering my FZS 600
« on: 03 October 2017, 01:59:52 PM »

While all you pussies are wasting money on magical toxins to see your bike through the next half year, I'll be riding mine. :lol
OK, occasionally we'll get a cold snap but there hasn't been one in recent years that's lasted more than a couple of weeks.
There will be loads of dry sunny days between now and April, I don't intend to miss out on them.

19
General / Re: Mac Photo editing software
« on: 01 October 2017, 08:39:35 PM »
Photoshop is available for Mac, but they've switched to a horrible rental system which gets expensive.
Photoshop Elements is a more economical offering, but the version I tried proved to have a completely different philosophy and I never got to grips with it after the nice intuitive interface of Photoshop 6 (it was awhile ago).
I opted for an app called Affinity which seems to be highly regarded by those in the know and is a bargain compared to Photoshop CS. It looks powerful, though I've not had time to get used to it... all I can say is it has quite a steep learning curve!

20
FZS600 Fazer / Re: Clutch dragging when hot
« on: 26 September 2017, 02:40:09 PM »

Had a search, but the one I'd half-remembered turned out to be the usual case of someone putting in heavy-duty springs. The other popular cause is down to improper adjustment of the cable and the actuator in the sprocket cover.
How worn was the actuator? I had to replace the bearings in mine… it's possible that might be giving you a variable take-up point if your balls aren't spherical.
There is probably a slight variation in take-up point as the bike goes from cold to hot. It looks, from the drawings as though the position of the clutch itself is fixed to the right hand side of the crank case. This means it'll move away from the pushrod slightly due to the difference in thermal expansion coefficients of aluminium alloy and steel. But, it will be 0.25 mm maximum which is still well within the range of pushrod movement available… otherwise we'd all have the same problem.  :lol

21
FZS600 Fazer / Re: Clutch dragging when hot
« on: 26 September 2017, 09:35:51 AM »
See if this sounds familiar at all?


http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php/topic,13507.html

That was a selector issue, it wouldn't cause the clutch to drag.
I vaguely recall seeing a previous thread about temperature-dependent take-up with the clutch lever, but can't recall what the outcome was... might have a search later.

22
For Sale & Wanted / Re: Wanted - FZS 600 Boxeye right hand mirror
« on: 23 September 2017, 03:30:33 PM »
FYI, the aftermarket ones M&P have are a good match appearance-wise for the OEM mirrors.
However,  the curvature of the mirror itself isn't quite so good... the view you get is a bit distorted towards the edges.

23
FZS600 Fazer / Re: 2000 FZS 600 runs lumpy after a trip to the Alps
« on: 23 September 2017, 03:24:10 PM »

I’d do as unfazed suggests.
Also check the cylinder head drain holes are clear.
A flooding carb is most likely to be due to the O-ring around the body of the float valve failing rather than the valve itself. Depending on how much you’re prepared to spend you can get a carb repair kit which comes with the gasket, valve and O-rings or, as I did, just buy a universal set of O-rings and pick out the size that suits for a fraction of the price.  :)

24
General / Re: Pushing your bike.
« on: 19 September 2017, 09:24:00 AM »

I remember my GPz305 breaking down on the M3 one night many years ago.
Initially I thought I’d run out of fuel so as it was only half a mile to my usual exit I pushed it.
Foc me that was hard work! :eek
The helmet had to stay on as there was nowhere secure to put it and I was saturated with sweat within 100 yards. I thought I was going to have a heart attack by the time I’d got it all the way up the off-ramp.
Once off the motorway I investigated and found the real problem was total lack of sparks… pushed it another 1/4 mile to the Crown and Cushion, parked up and got a taxi the rest of the way home.
Next morning I dismantled it and shipped it home it in the back of my Fiat 127. :lol


Anyway, hats off to Zarko at San Marino, that was a hard earned point!

25
FZS600 Fazer / Re: Front indicators for the back.
« on: 18 September 2017, 05:15:07 PM »
From the SVA testers manual (2010) the details are:

Minimum distance apart = 180mm
Maximum from rear light = 300mm

Loads of room for moving them or making them bigger/smaller.

http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php?action=downloads;sa=view;down=72


Strange… that doesn't quite tally with Schedule 7 of the Road Vehicles Lighting Regulations Act 1989 which specifies only the separation between rear indicators must be at least 240 mm (and 300 mm for the front).
Front indicators must also be at least 100 mm from a foglight or dipped beam headlight, there is no requirement for rear indicators to have any separation from tail or brake lights.


I'd interpret the MSVA manual to mean the rear indicators must be within 300 mm of the rear of the motorcycle rather than the rear lamp.
Another interesting point is that it prohibits HID headlights. :)

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