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Messages - bigfootpete
1
« on: 02 October 2020, 01:25:57 pm »
All good thanks, although I will probably get them properly serviced at some stage (by a pro).
2
« on: 30 September 2020, 04:52:30 pm »
That worked, thanks Dude, push test passed, I'll try to do a proper test tomorrow.
3
« on: 30 September 2020, 04:30:53 pm »
Ok, after the last independent mechanic told me it was going to be expensive to sort out my stuck pistons (I heard, "I don't want to do it mate").
I gave it a whirl myself - the left side I managed to free up but they are still reluctant to move but they do move.
On the right side they move freely but the problem I have is that I can't get them to stay down. So I put the new brake pads in, but the pistons force them together so I can't put the calliper back on the disc.
Any ideas?
What do you mean you can't get them to stay down? Do you mean they come out on their own when you push them back? If so then take off the brake fluid reservoir lid before you push them back, that will let the excess air out 👍 just make sure to out it back on before squeezing the lever again haha
Yep, that's what I meant, I'll give it a try thanks. Didn't want to go down the removal of the brake line from the calliper as then it gets messy. @Gnasher I'm no expert but I'm not going to ride it unless I'm 100% sure I've done the job properly and then tested them.
4
« on: 30 September 2020, 02:43:29 pm »
I fitted an Ohlins shock with a mate years ago - got it from E-bay for a reasonable price.
Right pain the backside to fit when you have large hands, much better than the OEM shock as you would expect though.
I've rarely adjusted it or had it serviced since fitting though - because I'm lazy...
5
« on: 30 September 2020, 02:38:18 pm »
Ok, after the last independent mechanic told me it was going to be expensive to sort out my stuck pistons (I heard, "I don't want to do it mate").
I gave it a whirl myself - the left side I managed to free up but they are still reluctant to move but they do move.
On the right side they move freely but the problem I have is that I can't get them to stay down. So I put the new brake pads in, but the pistons force them together so I can't put the calliper back on the disc.
Any ideas?
6
« on: 21 September 2020, 07:05:01 pm »
I only checked the left side, all the pistons were solid as a rock! Definitely needs some cleaning.
7
« on: 21 September 2020, 03:25:32 pm »
Actually I found the post - SBS it is.
8
« on: 21 September 2020, 03:15:02 pm »
Well that was the excuse they gave me.
I haven't been able to find anything on SBK brake pads? Did you mean SBS?
9
« on: 20 September 2020, 12:57:15 pm »
Ahhh, just had a check for other motorcycle places around - found one just around the corner that I didn't know was there, independent and very good reviews.
Last place I went to for immobiliser installation I had to catch a taxi back as they didn't have the insurance to lend me a bike.
10
« on: 19 September 2020, 06:22:18 pm »
Oh and the rubbing sound is the metal backing material of one of the pads rubbing against the disc, better replace the pads now before you start doing damage to the disc/s.
And Welcome back fella.
Thanks man! I'd be on more often if the site wasn't blocked by work, as I rarely switch my pc on after work. I'll check out the pistons, the dealer is the same one who passed my MOT when the tyre pressures were about 20psi 
11
« on: 19 September 2020, 12:33:26 pm »
Does uneven brake pad wear indicate an issue with my wheel?
Long time no hear! It's been a few years since I was last on here...
I took my bike in to the Yammy stealer for a puncture repair (turns out it was just the valves), when I set off I immediately noticed a rubbing sound from the front, took it back and they said it was the front wheel bearing.
I've just checked for play and the wheel is solid. So I took the brake calipers off (they were a bit sticky), and the front left(facing the bike) has almost worn out the inside pad. The right side pads are pretty even, if slightly more worn on the inside.
But it's a bit odd to have just one pad worn out - does that indicate some other issue?
And does anyone recommend some replacement pads?
12
« on: 17 April 2018, 10:01:15 pm »
Thanks for the links, I'll do a bit more research to see what I can find out. You'd think the website selling these would have more info rather than just lumping these in with all the other lead acid ones saying it's a direct replacement.
Yeah thats the problem, you will find that these sites have bought them in from China and as ive read else where rely on the "Chinglish" instruction that come with them.
Some more info about charging LiPo and LiFePo4 batteries on motorcycles -
- http://www.fastbikegear.co.nz/index.php?main_page=page&id=18&chapter=1
- One of my questions got answered which was how will the batter be charged on the bike as you ride without getting damaged, and that is that reputable battery have an inbuilt Battery managment system (BMS). If it dosen't have this then you will haver to remove the battery often and charge on a mains charger, but even if it does have a BMS you will have to periodically remove the battery and charge off the external charger to balance the cells - if yours does NOT have a BMS then send it back RIGHT now for a full refund.
But 2 issues that we as Uk rider will face are cold weather cranking (the battery has to be warmed/woken up) and LiPo and LiFePho4 do not like parasitic discharge (alarms), so as these batteries costs £100 or more compared to the £40-50 of the motobatt I currently have that will last a few years... I don't see the point atm in these types of batteries.
I don't ride very often these days, so in winter the drain from the alarm flattens the battery in a week. Even just with the immobilizer on. I don't have any power to the garage so can't have a trickle charger attached. I even tried disconnecting the battery but it still went flat.
13
« on: 17 April 2018, 09:45:08 pm »
Something else I have noticed about the battery yu bought, LiFePho4 has way more energy capacity in the same phyiscal space as a LeadAcid, so I think your getting short changed. That battery should be more than the 14Ah, at a guess something like 20Ah -
And while going through the list of Yt vids from the link I posted above I found one saying what I have been saying, you can not drop a LiFePho4 battery into a bike with a charging circuit design for LeadAcid -
- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7odOzf2Q0X4
Thanks for the links, I'll do a bit more research to see what I can find out. You'd think the website selling these would have more info rather than just lumping these in with all the other lead acid ones saying it's a direct replacement.
14
« on: 17 April 2018, 01:27:00 pm »
Heard back from my battery mad friend, he wasn't 100% sure about lithium batteries. But he did say that they should not be overcharged or left to go flat. He also said that the bike will not check what voltage the battery is at so will just charge while you ride it until you stop. So sounds like the possibility to overcharge will always be present... 
15
« on: 16 April 2018, 06:52:52 pm »
Hmmm, have alternators on bikes changed that much?
I'm checking with a mate who has built his own electric bike and will let you know what he thinks.
16
« on: 16 April 2018, 03:47:26 pm »
Just got a new Lithium battery, as I was sick of the AGM ones failing after a year.
I thought they had sent me an empty box it's so light! See attached pic.
Even holding it, it feels like the bottom section is empty.
Let's hope this one keeps its charge.
17
« on: 30 April 2017, 08:31:37 pm »
I wonder if your peg height problem may be related to the soft seat. I'm 6'3" and don't have an issue with the pegs.
I use a gel seat which is just velcroed on to the original, as I didn't want to pay the extortionate price for an airhawk, that probably gives me at least half an inch.
As for the shoulder ache, I think that is just a long ride at high speeds on a bike your not used to.
I've got the original screen on, but I don't notice the wind hitting me in the chest anymore, I think I got used to it.
18
« on: 21 April 2017, 11:41:12 pm »
Well this is my second Motobatt, first one I got off eBay, but couldn't remember if it had been use or not.
Also had two Yuasas, they are worse than the Motobatt.
I emailed the company and they didn't seem very sympathetic, thought they might want to examine it to see what they
could learn.
Now, after leaving it on the charger(Optimate II) it is actually registering as charging, but I'm not sure it will hold it's charge
after I take it off charge.
19
« on: 21 April 2017, 05:18:47 pm »
20
« on: 21 April 2017, 04:59:37 pm »
I've only had the battery for a year and probably only used the bike six months of the year and it's completely dead.
It was fine two days ago, I left the bike as per usual, just on the immobiliser, so that wouldn't drain the battery any more than normal.
But even if I had managed to leave the sidelights on I would still expect the battery to be low but not dead.
I can't charge it and if I swap the terminals it doesn't even warn me that they are on the wrong way, so it's now a paperweight.
Anyone recommend a replacement that's any good? Last one I had was a Yuasa, and they hate the cold.
Really need one that holds it's charge well, and lasts longer than a year.
21
« on: 16 April 2017, 07:41:56 am »
I always go for the Michelin PR2's they are still a brilliant tyre, last for ever, excellent grip, and cheaper than the latest tyres out. What more reason do you need? (Unless they stop producing them).
Can't find that many places selling them, so I might stock up, Wheelhouse tyres has a pair for £181
22
« on: 31 March 2017, 02:01:20 pm »
That sounds odd, I'm reasonably ham fisted on my bike, but even on rough surfaces I haven't had any bar wobbles, front end is stock.
23
« on: 31 March 2017, 01:53:05 pm »
Me again, talk about procrastinating! I've been riding around mostly changing straight up to third to avoid second.
Just ordered the gears, but apparently there are three selector forks, so anyone know which one to replace?
24
« on: 19 June 2016, 10:12:03 pm »
Well, back to the original subject, Yamaha are doing a MT roadshow, it'll be at Boxhill this weekend if you want to test ride any of the MT range.
25
« on: 10 June 2016, 10:29:14 pm »
I didn't actually try mode A, 90% of my ride was in mode B  it was very responsive, didn't find it aggressive at all. I would only get one if they took off a grand, I can't justify spending £10k on a new bike, got plenty of other things that I could spend the money on
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