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Topics - darrsi
126
« on: 30 September 2013, 10:27:06 am »
I just had an expensive journey in to work when i heard a pop then rattling sound so stopped to find a large screw hanging out of my rear tyre at a nasty angle. I'd recently had a slow leak so about 10 days ago i put some of that green slimy stuff in, which cured the leak, and fortunately kept my tyre totally inflated this morning which was a very good result in hindsight. So after taking a detour to my bikeshop and waiting around for them to turn up i didn't fancy the one tyre he had on the shelf, so slowly made my way to a motorbike tyre shop not too far away. He only had 3 tyres so i was kind of cornered into buying a Bridgestone T30 for the princely sum of £161  I already had the BT021 on which i found extremely good, and i would imagine that the T30 is rather good as well, but i don't really know anything at all about them so was wondering if anyone could give me a bit of feedback on here at all? Just found this, it's very encouraging  http://www.worldofbiketyres.com/features/ron.html (can you imagine riding pillion with Ron Haslam?  )
127
« on: 05 August 2013, 09:32:49 am »
I put my old stubby exhaust can back on the bike on Friday and as it looked a bit grubby i gave it a quick wipe over with Optiglanz to give it a bit of a shine up. What i didn't realise until this morning is that it has totally taken off the lasered BSAU markings on the exhaust. Don't get me wrong, the stuff is shit hot at cleaning downpipes, but i wasn't expecting that to happen at all, not that i'd even considered it though! 
128
« on: 29 June 2013, 02:02:46 pm »
I've got a few rust patches that have formed on my stainless downpipes that i'm finding hard to shift.
I did a bit of Googling and decided to try a combination of Coke, Vinegar, Baking Soda and water and tried scrubbing them with scrunched up tin foil but to be honest it did bugger all.
Anyone got any tricks they can share with me, bearing in mind that the rust spots are in limited spaces?
129
« on: 29 June 2013, 11:48:01 am »
130
« on: 27 June 2013, 01:33:27 pm »
131
« on: 19 June 2013, 06:42:48 pm »
I checked my TPS earlier, and the needle shot up to 10,000rpm so i switched off and went back in to work, and borrowed the torx tool ready to sort it out when i got home. Then as i left work i turned the ignition on and saw the needle stuck at 0rpm, so presumed that was part of the fault. That's when i noticed the bloody needle has somehow popped under the 0rpm stopper Question is, do these clocks come apart for me to get to the needle easily enough?I haven't got time to look at it tonight but was wondering if anyone could point me (and the needle) in the right direction?
132
« on: 19 June 2013, 01:34:17 pm »
Looking highly likely i'm gonna be needing a TPS for my 600, 2000 model, i'm having a bit of trouble sourcing one at the moment. Can anyone help at all?
133
« on: 17 June 2013, 01:39:44 pm »
Had a very kind mate of mine (cheers Steve  ) give my engine a bit of a makeover yesterday as it was starting to look a bit ropey due to the constant shite weather we have, and also the fact that i ride all year round. I'm very happy indeed with the results  I used to use an engine brightener spray on it before due to the black colour looking a bit tired but even after using Gunk, a jetwash, thinners and even sanding down the metal it seemed to still react with the spray, but we got there eventually.
134
« on: 16 May 2013, 10:52:27 am »
I only found out from a friend last night that there's a new branch of Motorcycle Warehouse in North Wembley in case anyone's interested! http://motorbike-warehouse.co.uk/
135
« on: 16 April 2013, 07:13:27 pm »
There's always been some kind of vibration or another coming from the front fairing area over the years, but since i changed back to my old Quill exhaust which has a deeper rumble to it the noise has been getting progressively worse, especially over the last week or so.
So i just stood outside my home revving the nuts off the bike at different levels of RPM, no doubt pissing off the neighbours, so i could try and recreate the mental buzzing sound that is driving me nuts, and it is coming from the clutch side headlight housing.
If i put pressure on to the wired plug that the bulb pushes into it stops all the noise.
I just tried slightly bending the bulb blades to see if it might stop it, but that didn't work.
The question is, how do i stop it vibrating?
Any ideas?
It really is the most annoying buzzing noise and i really have to get it sorted.
136
« on: 11 April 2013, 11:02:21 am »
After chatting with a fellow Foccer mate, and seeing different bikers on a daily basis, it has become apparent to me that not everyone knows about the Vee Wipe that exists to greatly improve your vision in wet conditions. I thought i'd give the newer bikers on here the heads up as it is such a simple but essential bit of kit. It's simply a piece of silicone rubber that fits over your gloved index finger that is shaped like a windscreen wiper blade. I've forgotten mine a couple of times due to changing bike jackets and got caught out in the rain, and simply can't believe how people can ride in wet weather without it. Wiping rain away with a dirty glove just smears crap all over your visor, whereas one quick 'wipe' will clear your visor cleanly just the same as a windscreen wiper would. If you haven't got one already then spend a few quid and get one, in my opinion they are a must have and will last you a couple of years before needing to change it due to a 'worn out' blade.  http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_trksid=p5197.m570.l1313&_nkw=vee+wipe&_sacat=0&_from=R40
137
« on: 03 March 2013, 05:22:49 pm »
Over the last few days i've had to persevere with the bike to get it to warm up, mainly at the initial start up.
It's very throaty after hitting the button and i have to coax it in to life with the tiniest amount of throttle.
Once it's cleared it's throat i let it tick over for a couple of minutes then i'll warm it up by riding, but even that takes another 5 minutes.
The thing that's confusing me is that it's been fine all over winter with the really cold weather, but today for instance was way warmer than we've been used to and it's been starting like a pig.
The battery's okay, no issues there, and once it's properly warmed up it behaves absolutely fine.
Got a newish K&N fitted, and the bike's used 5 to 7 days a week so it's not sitting about.
For the record i initially started the bike today with a Moto GP end can on, but then put my old Quill race can back on and went for a spin and everything felt good.
Any thoughts please ?
Just read this on another forum:
Re: Engine Rough at Start Up
Update - funny thing....after doing a valve adjustment on my ST1100....found 2 valves were on the tight side...at the limit but not below the limit....guess what ? Two shims later they are all back in exact specs now and NO more rough start-ups. Only did it on very cold days and for very short time. Passing this on as a tip to check your valve clearances if you are having these symptoms.
138
« on: 20 February 2013, 05:03:36 pm »
I've tried to find info on these without much success, so has anyone used, or are using, SBS Ceramic pads on the rear? Any feedback would be appreciated, as i've just bought a new rear disc and can't decide what pads to use. I'm not a great fan of organic because of dust issues, and won't use sintered again after they ate my last disc, albeit under stressful conditions! So, what d'ya know? 
140
« on: 17 January 2013, 01:27:59 pm »
141
« on: 21 December 2012, 04:19:15 pm »
142
« on: 06 December 2012, 07:11:25 pm »
I've been getting a slightly unnerving feeling through my steering for a while, which i can only describe as similar to having a tyre with low pressure.
The thing is the tyre pressure is okay (36f-42r), and the tyre's only a few months old, so i reckon it's going to be something to do with the fork oil.
There's no leaks or anything but i can't really think of any other explanation?
It's mainly noticeable at low speeds too.
My question though is what are your views on 15w fork oil, rather than the recommended 10w?
Is there any major difference in feel?
My forks are just standard one's with no mods or anything, in fact they're older than my bike, without the adjusters on top.
Any comments appreciated as always.
Thanks, Darren.
143
« on: 16 October 2012, 08:55:27 pm »
I've been occasionally looking from afar at the Fazer 1000's, and have noticed that a few of you have the 600 and a 1000 too, and was just wondering what your thoughts were on the main differences of the 2 bikes.
To be totally honest i mainly use my bike for work, which isn't that far away anyway, and i've got the bike running just how i want it, which is very good, but would appreciate any opinions or plusses and minuses please?
Cheers, Darren.
144
« on: 29 September 2012, 10:55:39 am »
Here's a graph of a Dyno reading for my 2000 SP 600.(2 years ago)The lower line was from when the bike had a hesitation/stutter issue on harder acceleration/overtaking, so i had the bike in for investigation which ended up as a carb overhaul, but the problem actually turned out to be number 2 carb inlet rubber that had folded in on itself on reassembly after having the cam chain replaced at another bike shop.Even though i took the bike back several times to the shop, 3 of them rode it and refused to acknowledge that there was a problem, which as you can imagine made my blood boil a bit, but what could i do?So i took it to PDQ and after taking the carbs off he noticed the offending inlet rubber that had been folded in half by about 10mm and then tightened up, so it was just letting too much air in when a bit of power was needed.Obviously the upper line on the graph is when everything was sorted.That turned out to be a very expensive month for me On this graph i had a Quill unbaffled race can on at the time, with a standard paper air filter, and i have an unknown make of replacement stainless downpipes, although they're probably Delkevic.I now have an SP Engineering Moto GP end can, which is shorter, and i leave it baffled due to noise and unwanted police attention, and a K&N air filter fitted, and after having the bike Dyno'd again last week it had dropped by about 0.5bhp, which i think is expected anyway due to wear and tear, and age.(the bike, not me  )
145
« on: 24 September 2012, 01:48:52 pm »
Thought i'd let you know that my 'jittery' problem at low revs has been sorted this morning. I'd changed spark plug caps, gapped the plugs and put a K&N filter on the bike, which in my personal opinion improved it a lot at first then it went back to being jerky again in any gear, just as i put a little throttle on. So i had the bike into PDQ this morning and it went straight onto the rolling road for a Dyno test. I actually watched the test and was shown that there wasn't too much of a difference on the graph comparison from the last time i had it done when i had a carb overhaul? The thing is that immediately after 3000rpm it takes off without even a hint of a splutter so it was traffic that was an issue for me, and unfortunately most of my ride to and from work is in traffic so it was important to me that it was working properly. After being advised that another carb strip down would 'probably' be a waste of time, i opted just for the carb balance for now to see if that would help? And that was it, he found that the carbs were well out of balance! I'm not sure why they were so far out, because they haven't been touched at all, but as soon as i pulled away from the yard i could feel and hear the difference straight away. Happy days! One thing that i will mention though which took me a bit by surprise, is that he told me that K&N filters hardly make any difference to the Fazer 600's at all compared to a stock paper filter, whereas a bike like a Suzuki Bandit for instance would have a very noticeable difference! Even more so when people clean them and oil them wrongly and then they don't work as they should.Seeing as my bike was showing 85bhp on the Dyno last time it was there and now it was showing about 84.5bhp, then maybe it's true, even though it feels like it can breathe a lot better to me?Anyway, i've got 50,000 miles of air filter left to worry about that, so for now i'll just enjoy it as it is! http://pdq1.com/services/
146
« on: 09 September 2012, 08:02:13 pm »
Has anyone ever had braided brake lines fail or degrade on them?
I've ordered some new front lines anyway, but was just curious if anyone had any experience of this at all?
147
« on: 03 August 2012, 03:07:36 pm »
I just did a quick test on my TPS setting and the needle on the rev counter was about 5300rpm.
Is that okay being thereabouts, or should it be bang on 5000rpm?
148
« on: 19 July 2012, 11:27:44 am »
Has anyone got any views on using stainless steel brake disc bolts on the front wheel at all?
Is it a good or bad idea?
I've had a look about the internet and there seems to be mixed reviews so was wondering if anyone actually has them fitted without any issues?
I've found good 'A4' bolts which are marine grade (ie: salt resistent) so should have good anti rust properties.
I wouldn't use them on the rear as that tends to get much warmer as it's not a semi floating disc unlike the front discs.
Any input appreciated, thanks.
149
« on: 12 July 2012, 07:03:09 pm »
I've noticed recently that my bike has been what i can only describe as 'jittery' between 2000-2500rpm.
Once i go over 2500rpm it's fine, picks up well, with no other issues or flat spots.
The more i think about it, it's probably been doing it for a while but as it's been gradual i've not taken too much notice of it, but now it's quite obvious.
It feels almost like i'm in the wrong gear, but i've tried different things and it's still there between those rev. ranges.
Any ideas? I'm sure it's not a difficult one if it rings a bell to anyone, but it's not something i've personally encountered before?
150
« on: 06 May 2012, 09:06:25 pm »
Does anyone know if there's an alternative to the blue spot front brake calipers, maybe with just 2 pots rather than 4 on each one?
I've had a continuous nightmare with front brake juddering for a few years now, which i deal with by carefully rubbing down discs so they're like new and rotating them about every 6 months which i'm used to doing but is obviously a pain in the arse.
I've got 3 pairs of discs, 2 that were brand new after market discs and 1 set that were 2nd hand originals.
I've been biking for years and never had trouble with any brakes at all that i can remember but this bike is driving me nuts.
It's definitely caused by uneven deposits on the discs because when i clean them up they work perfectly for a while, so they're not warped at all, and i do the recommended bedding in procedure. I've had new discs with new pads, and overhauled the calipers but it still comes back, and there's no leaking anywhere.
In fact up until i realised it was the deposits i've done virtually everything else you can think of, bearings, different pads, discs, even new forks.
The only thing i've not changed is the calipers, so was wondering are there other calipers i could try, OR, is there a trick that i really don't know about that you could enlighten me with?
As you can imagine i've spent a lot of time, effort and money trying to sort this out but i am totally baffled?
I'm open to any suggestions, other than "get another bike" as the rest of the bike is spot on!
It's a 2000 FZS600 S by the way, not that it really matters.
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