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Messages - unfazed
Pages: 1 2 [3] 4 5 ... 213
51
« on: 30 November 2023, 12:02:08 am »
Headed out for a spin on the Serow with my friend on a 250 Kwacker 120Km great day out 
52
« on: 29 November 2023, 11:52:25 pm »
Like many on here I do enjoy talking shite about my previous Foxeye and my present Gen 1,05, Thou. Against all better judgement l created a profile for Facebook which I f****** loathe, to try and join a Fazer group. I was declined as a scammer! ☹️ Yes the Facebook profile was vague because I don’t want to be arsed with people contacting me from years ago, I only want to access the Fazer groups! Any thoughts? P.s. As a self confessed ugly B******! I did not have my picture on Facebook when I joined, could this have something to do with it?
You're One of many Dave, One of many. We will see you on the Book Face side Dave. Put up your pic, of the back of your head with your helmet on. Sorted 
53
« on: 29 November 2023, 11:44:30 pm »
Welcome . Good bike choice, a few suspensions modifications are need to standard models to improve the soft first day suspension and service the EXUP valve yearly. There is no normal 70s big bike that will come close to it so beware until you get used to it. Accelerates and brakes way better than any 70s bike. Be cautious until you get used to it In the right hands a well sorted one will still hold its own with new sports bikes of today and embarrass a few owners also.  Not too bad for a 20 year old bike Enjoy
54
« on: 29 November 2023, 08:18:34 am »
Not really. Wheel can come out forwards or backwards or is you have enough height drop it down. There should be enough slack after you undo the clip holding it to the brake hose and the holder attached to the caliper bolt. Take note of how it is routed by the caliper. Many have missed it and ended up with it touching the disc and it being cut through
55
« on: 28 November 2023, 12:01:05 am »
hi thought that as well, on this bike as not clips on bars just a case of undoing the pinch bolts and sliding the forks down and out?
Read you have to be careful with the speedo drive on front wheel anything to look out for there?
Planning to get on the centre stand rock back ans get an axle stand under the frame or engine at the front, will this give me enough to get the wheel an forks off?
I will check and clean the calipers, think it needs front pads but not throwing money at it until i see if this can fixed tbh, seen a few say SBS pads are good oem spec replacement pad?
never worked on a fazer but mech engineer to trade and know ,my way about cars
cheers for the input
Alan
Biggest difference between cars and bike is the bolts are smaller and do not need the same level of torquing. Worth while buying a torque wrench and Halfords ones are reasonably priced and good. A 5nm to 50nm 3/8 drive will cover most bolts with the exception of swinging arm axle and wheel axles. All torque setting are in the Service Manauls in the download sections. The main manual covers 98-99 and two supplementary ones cover changes to the 00-01 and 02-03 Take care when removing the hoses from the engine an do not damage the anything some bits and no longer available new only second hand and difficult to find, especially the T on the engine pipe on the centre of the engine. Use left hand drill bits starting at 3 mm and work up in 1 mm increments. If the drilling out does not work out and you have to drill them out completely, but there are stepped studs available in 7mm inner to 6mm outer. Drill and tap the hole for 7mm studs.Be careful not to drill more than 12mm deep as you can go through into the oil area of the head at 20mm If you have the space leave the wheel on an release the pinch bolts to drop them otherwise remove the wheel. Calipers will have to removed and tied back first When putting the whee back on make sure you align the the speedo rotor tip with the slots on the wheel. Rotor is easily broken if you do not align them.
56
« on: 27 November 2023, 01:55:17 pm »
Remove the forks and tie the calipers out of the way to make it easier
57
« on: 21 November 2023, 11:39:10 pm »
Three things that usually cause leaks :
1. Float Valve O-Ring, Replace them, don't go wasting money on rebuild kits just buy the O-Rings( Replace the Main jet O- Ring as the same time)
2. Fuel Line O-rings between the carbs Replace them requires separation of the carb bodies
3. Flattened Float Gasket/Seal, replace them and use plain grease when refitting, seals and excess washes off with petrol. Suzuki ones can be half the price of Yamaha ones. All the Mikuni BSR Carbs use the same
A word of advice Do not use use silicon sealers or gasket makers anywhere near a carburetor.
What did you do/replace in the rebuild?
58
« on: 17 October 2023, 10:52:26 pm »
See attached
59
« on: 13 October 2023, 01:34:34 pm »
I'd say you answered your own question there. Tyres. Had the same issue with Michelin Road 4s, always a strange whine, when I changed back to Metzler Sportecs and no whine. Like you I removed the front wheel to check bearings and bobbins and all were fine.
60
« on: 09 October 2023, 08:29:28 pm »
Unfortunately I have not been able to test it.Test the ignition in all position prior to fitting to ensure the colours correspond.
Some cheaper switches are not always correct on the colours
A word of warning: the Black and Blue/Yellow from the loom wires are vital to get right on the ignition switch.The black and blue yellow should be only be an on off switch and not connected to anything else in the ignition switch when the switch is off, on or park
Wrong and bike wont start and if you connect them to 12v it can take out the Neutral switch and the side stand switch or blow fuses.
61
« on: 07 October 2023, 09:52:56 pm »
62
« on: 07 October 2023, 08:32:54 pm »
There was one raced in the TT about 15 years ago, it finished the race but don't know anything else about it. Good track day bike, more than capable of outbraking many sports bikes of the same era and a well set up one is still capable of embarrasing a few sportsbike on the road. The 110 front 160 is a good combination for quick turn in and with only 95hp you can gun it out of corners early.
64
« on: 06 October 2023, 08:11:15 pm »
That just drains the plug recesses. There is no drain for the Coolant pipe area that I could see when checking the valves some time ago.
65
« on: 05 October 2023, 11:59:07 pm »
All the same, R1 is the same, no drain holes, at least none I could ever find. Surprised me the first time I noticed it. I use a car blow dryer, it blows the water out of everything and drys the bike.
66
« on: 05 October 2023, 09:06:40 pm »
The 2002-2003 FZS600 has the same switch listed for the South African model and the European should fit ad the top yolk did not change as worst a few washers or a bit of filing to fit the steering locking.
I think the early FZS600 should physical fit but may need a washer or two to get the lock to work, not 100% sure as I have never fitted one, but the top yolk mounting points did not change, but will need a little bit of rewiring and the inclusion of a change over relay if you want the Hazzard lights to work in the park position.
The TDM85 and FZR600 Thundercat and many others share the same switch as the early FZS600.
I modified a 2002-2003 FZS600 wiring diagram and created two diagrams to use the the 6 wire switch to work with or without the Hazzards in the park position.
I will put it in the downloads section before the weekend
67
« on: 27 September 2023, 09:11:42 pm »
Two things to check before you go pulling the clutch. The pivot hole in the clutch lever is not worn and elongated. The adjustment unit in the sprocket cover is greased and correctly adjusted. The adjuster goes dry with age and make for poor clutch operation.
There is a how to doc in the downloads section on greasing the adjuster
68
« on: 26 September 2023, 09:42:06 am »
I had my cover fitted by a local man who does upholstery and he said the quality and workmanship of the cover was some of the best he had seen
I found an old picture of the area under the tank of my 1000 and it had the wires on the coils as I thought
69
« on: 25 September 2023, 12:18:29 am »
Have you removed the bottom bolt?
70
« on: 25 September 2023, 12:17:08 am »
As far as I can remember Black/red on top, White on the bottom.
Would work either way as it is totally insulated from everything internally
71
« on: 21 September 2023, 12:38:03 pm »
If the bike is pre 2011, a Fuel Cut Eliminator will probaby do rather than a full flash. The Gen 2 up to 2011 cuts the fuel when decelerating from certain speeds and there is a delay when coming back on the throttle. First time I rode one to check it out for a friend who was buying it, I thought there was something wrong with it. The owner said he never noticed it, but I was coming from a carburettor bike and it was very obvious to me and drove me to distraction riding it.
72
« on: 20 September 2023, 10:47:35 pm »
Sounds like your fast idle plunger sticking.
73
« on: 20 September 2023, 10:01:18 pm »
To dismantle the gearbox of the FZS600 you have to do a full engine strip.
The reason: Yamaha put two crankcase bolts under the cylinder barrels and you cannot remove the bottom half of the crankcase without removing those two bolts
74
« on: 15 September 2023, 07:45:29 pm »
How is the bike working at all with the meta head unit not present...?
That and the 2x exposed wires need to be covered up, as you dont know where they are terminating.
Already bypassed I would think, hence the twisted together wires
75
« on: 15 September 2023, 03:13:32 pm »
Not part of the original loom, It is the socket for a Meta Alarm
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