Date: 28-03-24  Time: 10:53 am

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Messages - Disorderlypunk

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226
FZS600 Fazer / Re: Centre Stand
« on: 30 March 2018, 11:40:53 pm »
Mine is getting hard to put on the centre stand, I'm guessing it might be warped.  I take it remove is just a case of removing the bolts either side and then taking the spring off?


it took both me and my father to get mine on the center stand with some difficulty - it came off about 10 mins after i put on the paddock stand
i think i still have it laying under a bench so might straighten it out at some point in the future

227
FZS600 Fazer / Re: Strange Vibration
« on: 30 March 2018, 09:37:48 pm »
ive suffered the bad vibrations and i found this fixed it
https://youtu.be/Eab_beh07HU?t=25s

228
FZS600 Fazer / Re: Bigger front sprocket
« on: 29 March 2018, 03:21:53 pm »
yeah i was cleaning the chain and decided to just start her up and let her spin the wheel on the paddock stand as i sprayed the hose at it to remove the cleaner and it was bouncing all over the place- turns out it was just riding the front sprocket a bit - its fine when its under load

229
FZS600 Fazer / Re: Petrol gauge
« on: 28 March 2018, 11:24:08 pm »
fuel guages are not all they are made out to be anyway - chop never had one and using my cheap chinese koso i only have a F**k about to run out sensor, fill her up every 80-100 miles and you should be golden (im not running standard intakes and ride like a twat on long rides and easily do 100 miles + running around on a tank)

230
FZS600 Fazer / Re: Bigger front sprocket
« on: 28 March 2018, 11:19:16 pm »
funny you should mention that after i have spent an hour killing myself over that today
with the wheel in the air it was shaking around like mad but when under pressure no problem at all
without a laser alignment tool its hard to be sure but them lines are the best we have - they are made in a pretty accurate JIG but as time passes we lose alignment through bearing wear etc

231
FZS600 Fazer / Re: Bigger front sprocket
« on: 28 March 2018, 11:08:29 pm »
if you go D.I.D you can buy extra links which of course need a rivet tool to fit, if you already have a d.i.d then a rivet remover can be used to remove old and replace more links

232
FZS600 Fazer / Re: Bigger front sprocket
« on: 28 March 2018, 09:53:29 pm »
there is more maths to it the bigger the change but the general consensus is 1 tooth is effectively 3 teeth on the rear
was talking to my father today about switching back to the 15 and he said he thought it wouldnt last long given the difference in riding conditions here
if your up and down the motorway all the time and not spending much time town riding a 17 wouldnt be a terrible
14t   3.43 /1
15t   3.2   /1
16t   3      /1
17t   2.82 /1
cant remember the primary reduction but you can see that is a serious change

233
FZS600 Fazer / Re: Bigger front sprocket
« on: 28 March 2018, 09:26:08 pm »
legal limit -whats that ??? (the kids like me passing the school at 70mph on my back wheel)
im 5 notches back on my 15t and was nearly at the back on my 14t
i have a feeling if you go 17 it will be a remeasure and longer chain so your stuck with it once riveted or throwing money away
i think we are at 110 links standard

234
FZS600 Fazer / Re: Bigger front sprocket
« on: 28 March 2018, 06:52:01 pm »
i think matt7chunk also runs a 16t
ive just pulled my 14t off and put back my 15t, was good fun for accelerating off the line and hooligan fun but my recent 120mile trip used much more fuel and lost a lot of the top end
might try a 16 if i go for a massive ride down south as most of it will be on the motorway anyhow

235
FZS600 Fazer / Re: Petrol gauge
« on: 28 March 2018, 12:42:15 pm »
does this even happen when the bike is standing still??

as strange as it sounds you might want to start at the battery with a multimeter and see what the voltage across the battery reads as it is running and gets reved
think of it this way - if your regulator is goosed it could be firing too much power into the electrical system at higher revs and that extra power going through the variable resistor in your fuel guage could be pushing through more power and making your guage rise higher up
running with everything off (lights heated grips etc) you should have a reading of  14.** volts @5000rpm
- it is unlikely but it is certainly possible and worth checking as it can cause more issues further down the line

after that i can only think of a dodgy earth somewhere in the circuit (unplug and clean connections)

236
FZS600 Fazer / Re: Part identification
« on: 27 March 2018, 10:45:33 pm »
I looked for the part number but couldn't find it but looks like others did  :)  I feel very lucky to live about 3 minutes away from fowlers so I just pop in and get the guys to find the part number for me


you lucky bugger - i keep wanting little pieces but refuse to pay more for postage than the the parts themselves lol

237
FZS600 Fazer / Re: Part identification
« on: 27 March 2018, 10:11:19 pm »
straight up on is  4YR-12484-00
slanted one is 4YR-12483-00

also need 2x orings9321015566 (superseeded 93210-15414)


no longer available from fownlers though

238
FZS600 Fazer / Re: Noisy speed sensor??
« on: 27 March 2018, 10:46:55 am »

thats what 6203 2RSH are they are sealed and im sure they are fine but i dont want someone to go out and buy them before i consult my little book of lost knowledge
ok its a big book as i keep getting hit in the head and forget stuff)


fixed for you  :)

bloody hate it when that happens

239
FZS600 Fazer / Re: Noisy speed sensor??
« on: 27 March 2018, 12:26:23 am »
thats what 6203 2RSH are they are sealed and im sure they are fine but i dont want someone to go out and buy them before i consult my little book of lost knowledge
(ok its a big book as i keep getting hit in the head and forget stuff)

240
the gaps are only there to locate the two locking bolts that is used on a different type of sprocket retention system - luck may be on your side and the gaps line up with your nut edges but luck of the draw is never incorporated into design
(except on the mrs punks scratchword scratchcard, if it gave us a S or a T at the end we would have been rolling in £300,000 that was designed bad luck)

241
FZS600 Fazer / Re: Noisy speed sensor??
« on: 26 March 2018, 11:21:03 pm »
scratch that - the bearing size is right but not 100% on that exact bearing number it might be a little too lightweight for the job
but a bearing supplier would be able to tell you for certain

242
FZS600 Fazer / Re: Noisy speed sensor??
« on: 26 March 2018, 10:57:54 pm »
is there any notchy feel to the bearings,if there is its only a few quid to get them replaced (2 less pints this weekend)
even cheaper if you have a bearings supplier nearby that you can take the old ones to
dont hold me too this but i think the fronts are od40 id17 w12 so a skf 6203 2RSH is a possibility and should only cost a few quid if you have a local supplier

243
ooh it fitting wont be a problem - but you have to be able to get a screwdriver in to bend up the tabs - original looks like its tapered at about 45degs
the new one looks much steeper

244
fitting the locking washer is gonna be a bugger with that rubber sitting in the way


245
FZS600 Fazer / Re: 15w oil in front end
« on: 25 March 2018, 09:46:00 pm »
it pretty much all comes out as long as you give them a few pump and leave them upside down for a bit
99% new oil is better than 0% new oil
but yes a full dismantle would always be the best option when possible or absolutely required



246
FZS600 Fazer / Re: Chain cleaning with isopropyl alcohol?
« on: 25 March 2018, 02:59:58 pm »
ive been using citrus sol to good results - good for cleaning all sorts of greasy parts

247
FZS600 Fazer / Re: 15w oil in front end
« on: 25 March 2018, 12:21:11 pm »
the black in the bottom is not sludge its oil, the clear on the top is water that as made its way past the seals
its definatly worth doing, the change in feel is more than noticable (but with that much water in its no suprise)
over time the oil breaks down and should be replaced anyhow, its just no1 does

248
FZS600 Fazer / Re: 15w oil in front end
« on: 25 March 2018, 12:42:06 am »
I'm with Slaninar, Scottoiler all the way. It includes a cleaning fluid and chains last 3+ times as long, that's proven. The container holds enough oil for at least 500 miles, so how can you forget to top it up? Would you forget to check tyre pressures? Better Scottoil than that sticky dirt magnet stuff that comes out of cans.

500 miles - holy crap i would have to refill it every week at least
i agree with matt entirely on this

if you ride in all weathers they are not the best of ideas (although usefull to a degree) and as for 3x longer - in comparison to what ???
a properly looked after chain removing the road crap will last just as long as any scottoiler looked after chain, especially with o/x ring chains as we are no longer lubricating the inner rollers we are only lubricating the plates that hold the rollers together

249
is it just me that see's a  better compromise between the two ?
would a 12mm nut with a 3mm gap be even better?
ok that extra 1mm wont be on a thread but would reduce torsional stress/flex
yes i already know the reduction would be minimal but as tesco says 'every little helps'




great drawing by the way - great to see stuff like that when its not coming from a design aspect but more a 'what is there' aspect

250
FZS600 Fazer / Re: 15w oil in front end
« on: 24 March 2018, 09:31:46 pm »
changing oil on its own is easy as anything as long as you have basic tools (socket set and allen keys) but a torque wrench is a good thing to have if you want to torque to spec (F-ing tight is the next best thing)
only when it comes to oil seals do you need anything a bit more specialist but you can get away with ingenuity a drift and a broomstick handle (i prefer the screw in mop handles)


a bench vice or black and decker workmate certainly makes life easier to clamp the stanchion while trying to get the top bolt back in but not essential if there is another set of hands available


something to drain the oil into (why i always have a box of empty coffee jars)


- if your mudguard has not been off in years be prepared for heartache though - the bolts often suffer from galvanic corrosion and will snap (£20 on front left) for some reason if it happens to me on a yam it is always front left, so take it easy use lots of plus gas/wd40/babyoil/ferrets urine whatever you use and wind it back and forth back and forth as you slowly remove the bolt - if it snaps then find someone who knows how to center drill and remove or helicoil (a good engineer will always try drill and remove first)


a quick read of the manual should give you a good idea on where alternative tools can be used just dont trust it when it says to go to chapter one as it within 4 lines tells you to go back to chapter .......6?

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