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Messages - jan.van.gent
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« on: 18 May 2017, 07:27:40 pm »
Would a blockage not rather cause a fuel shortage instead of to much fuel?
No not if it's air.
What do you mean by enricher circuit? Is this linked to the choke? Or? What to look for in the manual (http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php?action=downloads;sa=downfile&id=8) ?
The bike doesn't have a choke in the real sense, when you pull the choke lever out, look closely at what happens, it pulls out 4 plungers, they can stick open even when you push the lever back in. This cuts off air at low RPM through the pilot circuit, thus enriching the mixture, so when you rev the bike when it's warm with a stuck open plunger it's over fuelling.
OK now I understand. I took a good look at it. When I push the choke lever, all 4 plungers move properly. But perhaps the one of cyl2 is faulty on the inside? I will open up the carb next week and have a good look at it. Should I open up the top half of the carb to do this? Or is it an issue which can be solved from the lower half? Could I screwed this up when overhauling the lower half? Or is this a coincidence? (or maybe my manipulating/rotating/... the carb some debris got at the wrong location...)
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« on: 18 May 2017, 10:27:10 am »
It's a fuelling issue, too late now to go into detail will tomorrow.
I agree, looking forward to hear more about it 
What to look for/replace/...?
Ok, based on your post I’m assuming a few things here so this may not be correct: -
1.The cylinder giving trouble has the carb you rebuilt, or did you rebuild them all?
2.Plus you state everything runs fine at high rpm/big throttle positions, if it was the HT circuit it would usually be the opposite.
The part of the rev range you’re having issues with is just past pilot circuit, this now points to several possible problems: -
1.Pilot/Main jet damage/blockage
2.Needle height setting
3.Enricher circuit jammed/blocked.
Your leaking crab would have had nothing to do with shot rubbers, but rather worn metering valve/jet, stuck/damaged or wrongly set float height. When you “rebuilt” the carb what did you do?
Your black plug is over fuelling, i.e. too richer mixture which can be any or all of the above. If you rebuilt all the carbs and it’s not the one that was leaking, it’s still very possible you didn’t assemble one of them correctly, there's crap in the pilot circuit or you missed something like jammed enricher plunger.
Personally based on what you’ve said and what I know at present I’d go for No 3 first check the plunger is not stuck out, then No 1 as being your problem, it could be something else. Tell me more if there is any more?
I rebuilt the lower end of all 4 carbs. Thus replacing the neelde valve, the needle O-ring and the needle valve seat and the float chamber gasket. I believe one or more of the neelde valves were not closing properly, + the float chamber gaskets which were quite brittle ended up in leaking carb(s). Would a blockage not rather cause a fuel shortage instead of to much fuel? What do you mean by enricher circuit? Is this linked to the choke? Or? What to look for in the manual ( http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php?action=downloads;sa=downfile&id=8) ? Thank you very much for the input!!
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« on: 18 May 2017, 10:21:46 am »
Swap the spark plugs and leads from cylinder 2 and 3. Give it a good run and then repeat your spark plug check. See if the problem stays with the cylinder (carb / fuelling issue) or moves with the spark plugs/leads
After replacing the spark plugs, plug no. 2 was black after 2 km's already.
I haven't changed the leads so far...
(Ignore me if you already know this but...) Spark plugs 2and3 spark at the same time, but as one is on exhaust stroke and the other is on the compression stroke only one fires. So if you swap the leads over between cylinders 2and3 you can eliminate the problem being with the coil or plug cap. This is a very simple thing to do and worth eliminating before going to the trouble of removing and stripping the carbs again.
An intermittent spark could cause that spark plug to foul like that, and electrical faults can change with rev range as the mixture resistance changes. I'm not saying it IS the problem, just an easy check that is worth doing, before the ball ache that is removing and stripping the carbs again.
Thanks for the tip. I will try this out for sure, since it is easy as you describe. I do think its fuel related, but it doesn't do any damage to do this quick check. Thanks!
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« on: 18 May 2017, 08:01:26 am »
It's a fuelling issue, too late now to go into detail will tomorrow.
I agree, looking forward to hear more about it What to look for/replace/...?
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« on: 18 May 2017, 08:00:57 am »
Swap the spark plugs and leads from cylinder 2 and 3. Give it a good run and then repeat your spark plug check. See if the problem stays with the cylinder (carb / fuelling issue) or moves with the spark plugs/leads
After replacing the spark plugs, plug no. 2 was black after 2 km's already. I haven't changed the leads so far...
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« on: 17 May 2017, 08:01:08 pm »
Hi everyone, A while ago I rebuilt my carb, since it was overflowing when engine was off (leaking into cylinder) and overflowing when running idle. As expected some of the rubbers were shot. I used this set: http://www.ebay.de/itm/KR-Vergaser-Reparatur-Satz-Carburetor-Repair-Set-x4-YAMAHA-FZS-600-Fazer-98-03-/162156361779Since then, the carb is not leaking anymore, everything seemed fine. However, now the engine hesitates between 2000 and 5000 rpm, especially near the 4000 rpm range. I've set the pilot screws as listed in the manual to 2 turns out. But I remember when overhauling the carb, the screws were out less than 2 turns (rather 1 or 1.5). In high rpm's or at high trottle positions everything runs great. Things I've checked/done so far: -checked the condition of the TPS (throttle sensor position) --> goes nicely to 5000 rpm, so it's OK -replaced the spark plugs -checked and rechecked the pilot screw settings (2 turns out) -spraying water on the exhaust manifold when idling: they seem to be all quite at the same temperature -reduce the pilot screw turns out (1 turn out instead of 2 turns out) on second cylinder --> no change notable When I check the spark plugs, the spark plug on cylinder 2 looks realy black. Spark plug 1, 3 and 4 look like this:  While spark plug no. 2 looks like this:  Any suggestions on what to do? Open up the carb again and see if there is something wrong with the pilot screw of the second cylinder? Or could this be caused by anything else? Thanks guys!
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« on: 31 August 2016, 10:54:49 pm »
After drving for 1 hour and than rest it for 2 min.
Level is very close to max.
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« on: 31 August 2016, 10:49:39 pm »
The oil level is at max (at center stand).I rather wont add any more. I double checked this today. Its in deed when accelerating max, and mostly uphil.
So the sensor is oil level not pressure? Is there as well a pressure sensor (and warning light)? Because pressure tells much more than level. Especially during acceleration. Are there any baffles in the sump to make sure not all the oil goes straight to the back at acceleration? Or is the oil pickup at the back? While the sensor for the level is at the front?
My other bike is dry sump (wr250f) so never such issues there...
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« on: 31 August 2016, 07:37:05 pm »
Hi everyone,
I noticed today when pulling up (1/2nd gear from 4000 rpm to 8000 rpm), sometimes the oil warning light goes on (for a split second or little bit longer).
While the oil level is at max.
Any ideas what could cause this? Faulty sensor? Faulty oil pump? Or is this normal (oil goes to the back of the sump because acceleration?)? Bad filter (not enough flow)?
Filter and oil have been replaced by myself 2 months ago (3000 km's or so), standard 10W40 (motorcycle).
Best regards,
Jan
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« on: 19 April 2016, 09:57:43 pm »
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« on: 12 April 2016, 01:18:15 pm »
Hi Guys,
I have some Shell Helix Ultra 5W-40 Fully Synthetic Engine Oil left over from my car service, that I am hoping i can use for my bike. I have been told the Haynes manual states my FZS 600 (2003) needs 10W-40 oil.
[/size][/color]
[/size]Being "5W" means the oil is designed to work at lower temperatures than the recommended "10W", does anyone know if this will affect the viscosity at higher temperatures? And therefore damage/wear my engine? [/color]
[/size]Thanks![/color]
don't ever use car oil in a motorcycle with wet clutch! It will make the clutch slip. I use Procycle 10W40 semi-synthetic. https://www.louis.de/en/artikel/procycle-4t-engine-oil-semi-synthetic-10w-40-1-litre/10038450?list=164995864In bottles of 4 liter, it's about 4.5€/liter, or thus for you guys 3.59 pound/liter The quality is Ok of this oil. I used it in all my bikes so far, never troubles. Also read a few good reviews about it.
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« on: 12 April 2016, 08:14:25 am »
I bought the bike when it has been sitting for a while, and yes indeed with an almost empty tank! So that's a great suggestion! Thanks.
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« on: 11 April 2016, 09:35:17 pm »
The warning light works properly (fuel low -> light on, enough fuel -> light off)
However, the gauge doesn't work (it always shows zero fuel in the tank, no matter how much fuel is in the tank).
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« on: 11 April 2016, 09:22:54 pm »
Thanks! Last summer I cruised through the UK using my other petrol fueled toy.    I love the roads up there!
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« on: 11 April 2016, 09:03:51 pm »
Hi Punkstig,
The warning light works correctly. So it's off when full, and goes on when almost empty. So the functions properly.
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« on: 11 April 2016, 08:40:15 pm »
Hi everyone,
I just bought (2 weeks ago) a fazer FZS600.
I bought the bike when the fuel was on reserve, so I never noticed at that time that the fuel gauge doesn't work.
However, the light goes on when in reserve.
Any ideas what might cause this (gauge not working, warning light does work)?
I checked the connection and seems like it's OK.
I'm also wondering if I should replace the front sprocket nut, on this 2001 model?
Should I order at dealer or is there a better aftermarket alternative?
Best regards,
Jan
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« on: 11 April 2016, 08:37:36 pm »
Hi everyone, My name is Jan, and i'm living in Belgium. My current bikes: -2005 Yamaha wr250F (enduro) -2005 Yamaha wr250F (spare parts bike) -1998 Cagiva Elefant E750 (for sale atm) and the one which is most interesting to you guys: -2001 Yamaha Fazer FZS600 I bought the fazer 2 weeks ago. It has 23.000 km's on it. Bought it for €1000. Since then, I changed: -tires (dot code was 2001...) --> changed to fresh metzelers -fresh air filter -new oil + oil filter -new cooling liquid. Some pics of the WR and Fazer:  
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