I have the s1000rr shock to fit when I can get around to it. I’ll probably get ktec or someone to redo the forks after that. Anyone decent in the midlands to do my forks ?
As stated in one of the earlier posts fix the rear first, anything over 20stone will need a spring change on the S1000rr shock.Dropping the front will only make it turn in faster, the Fzs1000 has a tendency to run wide out of bends especially when giving it the beans and dropping the front won't fix that, it needs a lot of work to reduce/stop it.It can be done with just upgrading the fork springs and increase the the fork oil to 7.5w minimum, playing around with the compression and rebound damping, but is a slow processI have noticed over the years that oils from different companies do not work the same even if they have the same weight markings.
Quote from: unfazed on 22 February 2019, 04:44:33 pmAs stated in one of the earlier posts fix the rear first, anything over 20stone will need a spring change on the S1000rr shock.Dropping the front will only make it turn in faster, the Fzs1000 has a tendency to run wide out of bends especially when giving it the beans and dropping the front won't fix that, it needs a lot of work to reduce/stop it.It can be done with just upgrading the fork springs and increase the the fork oil to 7.5w minimum, playing around with the compression and rebound damping, but is a slow processI have noticed over the years that oils from different companies do not work the same even if they have the same weight markings. Running wide out of bends is exactly it ! I’ve wound the preload in to no rings showing and it still dives badly. Using 110mm of travel on spirited riding with some hard braking. It seems the first 2 inches of the spring are just pure sag and slop , maybe someone put progressive springs in at some point. Either way they’re pretty shagged, time for a rebuild
Quote from: Stinka on 22 February 2019, 11:34:02 amI have the s1000rr shock to fit when I can get around to it. I’ll probably get ktec or someone to redo the forks after that. Anyone decent in the midlands to do my forks ? Parkitt Performance near Newark
Forks done, he’s put 10.5kg liner springs and 10wt oil in Says the compression adjusters were sized and he tried a few ways of getting them free but said they’re fucked What affect will they have on fork action ? Forks were a sloppy spongy mess, I’m expecting a totally different experience now but these adjusters being siezed is a bit pantsQuoteAccording to this post from Falcon I just found, the bottom adjusters only affect low speed handling ? Not a problem really as I Don’t tend to hang around lol (probably interpreted this wrong, but anyway:D )Here's my take on it, having had several aftermarket shocks on my Fazer, together with K-tech modded Fazer forks and then K-tech modded R1 forks. The stock shock is undersprung, poorly damped and usually dies after about 10k miles. It can be refreshed and resprung, and revalved if that's what you want but the cost works out more than fitting an R6 shock with appropriate dogbones.The R6 shock is much better quality than the Fazer OEM item but not quite as good as a quality aftermarket shock. I've had Hyperpro and Ohlins on mine over the years but I now have the R6 version and frankly there's barely any discernible difference for fast road use. Certainly not the way I ride these days. Rider weight 70kgs not including kit.The stock forks are fitted with dual rate springs which are too soft in the first part of their stroke and too stiff in the latter. In addition, the hi-speed compression damping (non-adjustable, determined by the crude design of the valves) makes for a jarring ride which can't be fully dialled out with the damping adjuster, since they only alter low-speed damping response. The rebound damping is too little which means that using thinner fork oil to improve the ride quality can lead to too little rebound damping, even with the adjusters on max.I've tried OEM forks fitted with Hyperpro progressive springs and they are a worthwhile improvement over stock for a reasonable outlay. Fully modded OEM forks (K-tech, Maxton, take your pick and pay your money) are a bigger step forward and the revalving resolves the issues mentioned above. R1 fork conversions usually alter the steering geometry (depends on what you do with the yokes and fork lengths), making the bike steeper and quicker to turn. My R1 forks have K-tech internals which make for a quality ride in addition to the quicker steering response. For heavier riders, the loss of a little ground clearance might be an issue but for me it's not been a problem.So, what to recommend to the OP? The R6 shock is as good as you need, IMHO. I suggest you consider fitting linear rate springs appropriate to your weight (speak to K-tech, Maxton etc for advice) along with whatever fork oil and air gap they suggest. Drop the forks through the yokes 10mm and see how it goes from there. If you plan on keeping the Fazer, consider spending more on a complete fork revalve. It will be worth it in the long run and will be as good for you as dropping time and money into an R1 front end with unmodded R1 forks.Just my five pennyworth, of course.
According to this post from Falcon I just found, the bottom adjusters only affect low speed handling ? Not a problem really as I Don’t tend to hang around lol (probably interpreted this wrong, but anyway:D )Here's my take on it, having had several aftermarket shocks on my Fazer, together with K-tech modded Fazer forks and then K-tech modded R1 forks. The stock shock is undersprung, poorly damped and usually dies after about 10k miles. It can be refreshed and resprung, and revalved if that's what you want but the cost works out more than fitting an R6 shock with appropriate dogbones.The R6 shock is much better quality than the Fazer OEM item but not quite as good as a quality aftermarket shock. I've had Hyperpro and Ohlins on mine over the years but I now have the R6 version and frankly there's barely any discernible difference for fast road use. Certainly not the way I ride these days. Rider weight 70kgs not including kit.The stock forks are fitted with dual rate springs which are too soft in the first part of their stroke and too stiff in the latter. In addition, the hi-speed compression damping (non-adjustable, determined by the crude design of the valves) makes for a jarring ride which can't be fully dialled out with the damping adjuster, since they only alter low-speed damping response. The rebound damping is too little which means that using thinner fork oil to improve the ride quality can lead to too little rebound damping, even with the adjusters on max.I've tried OEM forks fitted with Hyperpro progressive springs and they are a worthwhile improvement over stock for a reasonable outlay. Fully modded OEM forks (K-tech, Maxton, take your pick and pay your money) are a bigger step forward and the revalving resolves the issues mentioned above. R1 fork conversions usually alter the steering geometry (depends on what you do with the yokes and fork lengths), making the bike steeper and quicker to turn. My R1 forks have K-tech internals which make for a quality ride in addition to the quicker steering response. For heavier riders, the loss of a little ground clearance might be an issue but for me it's not been a problem.So, what to recommend to the OP? The R6 shock is as good as you need, IMHO. I suggest you consider fitting linear rate springs appropriate to your weight (speak to K-tech, Maxton etc for advice) along with whatever fork oil and air gap they suggest. Drop the forks through the yokes 10mm and see how it goes from there. If you plan on keeping the Fazer, consider spending more on a complete fork revalve. It will be worth it in the long run and will be as good for you as dropping time and money into an R1 front end with unmodded R1 forks.Just my five pennyworth, of course.
Which S1000rr shock is on it, The one with the bronze Fork or the Silver fork attaching to the linkage.If it is the silver one, set the rear static sag to 20mm which is about the limit for the standard spring without fitting a 10mm collar to the and the rebound to 5 and both compression settings to 5.See pic