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Topics - darrsi
51
« on: 20 September 2016, 06:35:47 pm »
Looking for an 02/03 tank only, 22 litre type, for my 600, not fussed about colour or MINOR dents and scratches as i'll have it resprayed anyway, but i do want the fittings underneath, ie: fuel tap, fuel level gadget, etc. I'll fit my own fuel cap so that's not really needed.
And obviously no leaks please.
Thanks, D.
52
« on: 09 September 2016, 06:19:22 am »
Gonna post my issue on here for the wider audience to see if anyone can pinpoint or recognise my bikes problem.
Last couple of weeks my 600 has been suffering from a very mild "shivering" effect at lower revs, and i'm not entirely sure what to do about it or what's causing it?
It's nothing major, yet, but it is there, which means it's bugging the hell out of me.
And it's not a stutter, or a hiccup like you would get with an air leak, but similar to the noise a person would make when they are very cold and shivering, but as stated it's only a mild effect.
It mainly happens at 2000rpm or below, and is most noticeable at under 20mph, so slow speed riding, which is why it's annoying me because I ride in traffic a lot. Above either the bike runs as sweet as a nut.
Otherwise the bike is mechanically sound and looked after.
Tickover is rock solid, needle doesn't move from 1200rpm, no hunting or anything.
Approaching 49,000 miles, mainly used for commuting.
Recent brand new TPS, in correct position at 5000rpm.
New battery a few months ago, and bike starts first time on the button, no choke needed at all.
K&N air filter cleaned and re-oiled a few weeks ago.
Oil changed within last couple of months, and cooling system is all fine and air tight.
NGK spark plug caps.
Carbs balanced by me 3 days ago, all totally level, which helped a lot but not got totally rid of it.
Quill aftermarket end can, been on there for years though, so totally ruled out.
If i pull the throttle back it runs perfectly, no coughing spluttering or anything, absolutely fine with smooth and efficient delivery of power.
Not changed plugs for a while, but i don't do high mileage at all, so although i don't actually think they need replacing i never jotted down when i last changed them, so i've ordered some new NGK Iridium plugs anyway to rule them out just in case.
So, anyone got any ideas at all, 'cos i'm a little bit stumped to be honest?
53
« on: 16 August 2016, 05:06:20 pm »
Was just browsing a handy little government website that tells you the dates of a vehicles tax and MOT, and put my bike number plate in the search box.
It also chucked up a few years info of my previous MOT's.
But i noticed that it said my bike failed its MOT in 2014, then on the same date and mileage it then shows a pass.
After checking my own service notes i remember taking the bike in for an MOT that day, but also with a new tyre to be fitted as well while they're at it.
It says i failed on a tyre with with a tread of less than 1mm, which is total bollocks as i'm way too fussy to let a tyre go anywhere that low.
But if i took a new tyre why does it mention a fail anyway?
There was no mention of it on the day, and there is no paperwork to say it failed either?
I know it didn't fail because the last bike i had that did was in the late '80's.
Am i missing something here?
It's not a problem, i'm just a bit bewildered by it, especially as it's not even true that i had a dodgy tyre, which is irrelevant anyway as i handed them a new one with my bike?
Any thoughts?
54
« on: 08 July 2016, 07:08:37 am »
55
« on: 04 July 2016, 12:11:01 pm »
As above, this has being going on for a while now and it's becoming irritating. At completely random intervals the bike will appear to have a flat battery when I go to start it, and I just get a buzzing sound. Thing is, once I get it started via jump leads it won't do it again for ages. I did have an issue with my side stand switch but I've bypassed that now by connecting the wires, not ideal I know but the switch is in a terrible place to get to so it'll do for now. When this has happened before I've ridden the bike to work and put the battery on charge and it shows as full in less than half hour so I don't believe it is a dud battery problem. Also once I do get it started it will start absolutely fine on the button for weeks or even months before it does it again. I last used the bike on Friday, and it wasn't raining so I don't think it's a water issue either. All battery connections are good and tight, and the battery is maybe 3 years old, but as I've said I don't think it's that otherwise it would be happening much more frequently. Other than this, everything else is working fine. Any ideas welcomed, I'm a bit stumped at the moment? 
56
« on: 21 June 2016, 08:41:48 pm »
57
« on: 05 June 2016, 12:37:13 pm »
58
« on: 20 May 2016, 10:22:34 pm »
Some of you may know this, but a lot of you won't, 'cos i didn't! For the last week or so i had what can only be described as a "crunchy" brake feeling with the front lever. Over the years i've normally put that down to a worn bush where the lever pivots on the bolt, and a new lever has always sorted it. But yesterday i put a new lever on and it actually felt a tad worse. Pulling the lever would give the said crunchy feeling until finally the brake would apply FULL ON making it too random to use. Not the greatest scenario, so after staring really hard at it i asked my good mate if i could pop round and get a second opinion. I knew my calipers are in good nick as i maintain them myself, and sure enough with the bike on centre stand and the brake applied the front wheel span freely on release. Then after my mate had a look about for a few minutes he disappeared inside then came back out with.........a toothpick.........and a tube of silicone grease? He then put a bit of grease on the master cylinder plunger, where the lever pushes onto it. Sorted.  I was gobsmacked, while he stood there laughing at me, kind of like he just suggested the winning Lotto numbers. I can only think the shitty desert dusty rain we keep getting totally dried out the metal, and the two surfaces were so dry they were 'chattering'. The difference is literally unbelievable,it has gone from some weird uncontrollable grabby feeling to being absolutely spot on with superb and accurate braking with just one finger! Thought I'd share anyway, it's a great fix, especially if you have an all weather bike. 
59
« on: 25 April 2016, 06:54:02 pm »
I can't believe i've had another TPS fail on the bike, the 3rd one.  I had that same shivering effect last week so checked it and it was at 10,000rpm but when i adjusted it it didn't happily sit at 5000rpm like it normally does, but it was near it so thought that would be good enough. Today the bike just didn't feel right, like it was being very slightly held back, so my first thoughts were the air filter but it's a K&N so had my doubts. Checked the TPS again earlier and it shot up to 10,000rpm again, and when i loosened it to adjust it just stayed put, so it would appear i have another fooked one. Not gonna bother with buying used ones again, as they're obviously at the very least 13 years old so can fail at any time, so just ordered a new one from Germany at a much lower price than it would be over here. In fact i just noticed AJ Sutton don't even sell them any more! Here's the link if anyone has similar issues and needs one. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Drosselklappensensor-TPS-101-Yamaha-FZS-600-DROSSELKLAPPE-13550-13D60-4HD-85885-/361403667980?hash=item542556560c:g:svIAAOSw2s1UxgsX
60
« on: 14 March 2016, 04:20:28 pm »
61
« on: 24 February 2016, 09:32:36 am »
Are side stand switches non serviceable?
My bike wouldn't start outside work last night, until the battery just gave up, so a colleague gave me a jump start and we got it going again, then I rode to the end of my building to stop and put air in my tyres and when I put the side stand down with the engine running in neutral it cut out again.
So after a long hard stare at the bike, I put it on the centre stand, put the side stand up and pressed the ignition button and it came to life again.
When I got home I used a can of degreaser around that area, then brake cleaner then gave it a good spraying with WD40.
I could see the button going in and out quite freely when depressed and released so that looked okay.
This morning the bike started then stopped dead after 30 seconds, so bike back up on centre stand again and it fired up and ran fine again.
So it would appear it has an intermittent fault, or is just on it's way out.
Do they just need replacing? I couldn't really see through all the chain lube that was covering it what they were really about, other than that it's in an awkward place?
62
« on: 06 February 2016, 04:08:23 pm »
64
« on: 01 November 2015, 05:58:39 pm »
I went to properly adjust my clutch cable earlier, at both ends, but the clutch adjusting nut rounded off even though i only nipped it up when i last fitted a new cable, and i was using a socket to loosen it.  Because of the deep positioning of it, inside the clutch cover, i don't quite know how i can remove it, and it needs doing as the adjuster at the top end only hasa few threads left on it. Anyone got any bright ideas how i can sensibly remove it? I'll obviously have to get a new one to replace it with.
65
« on: 01 November 2015, 05:15:21 pm »
Just went to fit a new anti fog visor insert on my lid then realised i've bought the wrong design, this one fits pinlock visors rather than my Arai visor which has air vents at the top. Really annoying as i lifted one corner of the protective plastic off so i doubt they'll accept it as a return, but other than that it's in perfect condition. I've used these for years, and they work extremely well. They have a slight reaction to sunlight, with a mild but effective tint, they prevent fogging and also reduce glare from headlights at night. You need to really clean your visor, then it sticks down with double sided tape and creates an air tight seal. On fitting make sure everything is dirt or fingerprint free, then stick the middle part down first then gradually press the tape down firmly one side at a time, another pair of hands is helpful so you can concentrate on one side at a time. Be warned, once that tape connects to the visor, it ain't coming off in a sensible manner, so you only get the one real chance to do it right. (been there done that) I've got it down to a fine art now and remove the old tape after a couple of years, put new tape on and reuse the insert again, but it's time consuming so thought i'd buy a new one. Normally £17.49, but yours for £14 with free postage, as it's basically new. PAYPAL ONLY please It's the same as this one - but no good for an Arai visor with air vents http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Progrip-PinLock-Visor-Insert-Anti-Fog-Auto-Tint-Light-Sensitive-Clear-/131634819068?hash=item1ea60beffc:g:C6oAAOSwo0JWKLvp
66
« on: 10 September 2015, 10:54:08 am »
I can only imagine a Russian fella drinking vodka & coke and also sniffing lighter fuel then falling over and flying across the room. There's no other valid reason how this came about. 
67
« on: 04 September 2015, 11:56:19 pm »
WTF
68
« on: 03 September 2015, 07:02:31 pm »
For those of you not in the know.
69
« on: 26 August 2015, 06:59:03 pm »
'Twas a bit wet at my workplace today. About 10 minutes after the photo was taken the water was up to the glass reception area on the right and flooded inside. We all spent about 4hrs sweeping water out of the building this afternoon, I can only imagine the whole place will stink like a shitter by morning, but fortunately I don't have a sense of smell so I won't know any different anyway!
70
« on: 08 August 2015, 03:35:42 pm »
Another computer question, i've tried looking for info but have drawn a bit of a blank.
My iPad has started hesitating or not allowing me to open certain pages and it would appear to be something to do with "mobiquo".
From what i can make out it could be something to do with this forum with a connection to Tapatalk which i personally don't use.
Mobiquo will appear as part of the web page address that i'm trying to reach and it takes it over and leaves me with a blank page and just keeps searching.
I use Chrome on an iPad Air and it's been happening for about a week now, but is becoming increasingly annoying.
Anyone know anything about it, or how i can possibly remove it from the system?
71
« on: 02 August 2015, 01:09:18 pm »
73
« on: 02 July 2015, 01:30:36 pm »
As above, happy birthday me old mucker, have a good'un. 
74
« on: 22 June 2015, 06:30:05 pm »
After having a look around the internet I noticed that not everyone has stuck with using K&N's own cleaner for their air filters, presumably due to cost.
I cleaned mine for the first time a few days ago and although it did work I wasn't totally impressed by the spray degreaser in the kit.
So I was wondering what people's views are on cleaning them using other stuff, or if anyone had any tips or advice at all?
75
« on: 18 June 2015, 10:41:18 pm »
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