Welcome, sense of humour which you will need with all these daft Foccers and the fastest colour slowed down by the black fairing   

Welcome, some Foccers here who think other colours are fast and they are correct, it is just that the red ones are faster.

Most likely blanking plugs for the water jacket in the cylinder head. Some times holes are drilled to complete water channels and oil ways which could not be fully created when casting and these blanking plugs are then used to seal the holes. Similar to the two oil way blanking plugs on the bottom of the crankcase under the Alternator on the left and directly opposite on the right.

Remember, always put the rear paddock stand in placed first on bikes without a centre stand before lifting the front with the front paddock stand.
Be aware that some of the cheaper front paddock stands will not lift the front of the Fazers high enough to allow the wheel to clear the fender.
I have on occasion had to use 2 pieces of wood about 1 inch thick, 6 inches wide and 12 inches long under both sides of the stand before lifting, it was just less hassle than taking off the fender

If the rear paddock stand is not in place, when you remove the front axel the bike will become highly unstable 

Front number plate on the way

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From MAG UK

HELMET NUMBER PLATES INTRODUCED
UK motorcyclists will need to display a front number plate from next month onwards, under new laws passed by the British Government last night. Motorcyclists will need to apply to the DVLA by 30 April and purchase an envelope-sized sticker (at a cost of £19.95) – which they will need to attach to the front of their helmets. The UK’s top traffic cop, Thames Valley Police Commissioner Anthony Stansfeld , said bikers have been getting away with speeding offences for far too long, claiming that 61 percent of bikers caught speeding by traffic control and speed cameras escaped a fine because of the lack of front number plates.

You could always try this 

motorcycle tyre change while riding!

Out of balance carbs makes it even worse

Song

Removing the stud
Grind the stud flat within a few mm to the head, put a good deep punch mark dead centre and use a lefthand drill bit to drill it out. I have found that this method often spins the stud out. Start carefully with a 3 or 4 mm bit and work up. I usual use a 3mm bit to start, but they are easy to break if not extremely careful. If unsure start with a 4mm.

Removing the cams.
More of a fiddly than difficult job to do.  Take your time and make sure you have access to a good quality torque wrench when putting it back together as cam caps bolts only require 10Nm torque.
Remove the Alternator cover and line up the marks (T mark with the crankcase mating point at the front) Cam marks should line up exactly or within a few mm. If they are not within a few mm of the marks, it indicates chain wear and might be worth considering changing the chain.  Post a picture of the cam marks looking down straight as it is difficult to judge from the picture you have up.
Remove the Tensioner cap bolt.
Remove the cam Chain tensioner
Remove the cam chain guide.
Now the inlet cam first.
Loosen all the cam cap bolts a little first in a crisscross pattern, both sides should be treated as one whole piece.
Now loosen bolts evenly to about 1.5mm above the cam caps.
Cam caps may be stuck in place due to the tight tolerances of the dowels.
If cam caps do not move tap them gently. They might pop up with a crack and scare the crap out of you.
Keep unscrewing all 11 bolts (Guide bolt is already removed) evenly a little at the time until they are all loose enough to be removed and there is no pressure on the cam caps,
Remove the cam caps and the 6 dowels. Try not to drop the bolts or dowels down the chain tunnel.
The cam caps must go back on the exact same place and way they were removed.
Lift up the cam and roll it towards the front of the engine, lift off the chain and tie it up.  The cam must also go back in the same position.

Now do the exhaust cam.

Pushed back the rubber boots on the Coil end of the Plug caps and coated the area with Vaseline.
That will stop the water getting in and causing the rough running.
Replaced my worn clutch lever, clutch back to normal feel again.
Difficult to see the hole wear in the picture, but the difference is always amazing

Thanks for the info. noggy, I will pass it on.

That Dirty Noggyfighter is a spotless compared to mine at the moment 

River