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Messages - FZ1obp
26
« on: 23 February 2017, 01:28:12 pm »
Whale and Tommy
Thx for your input - all noted although I think the Gen 2 bikes are a bit different from Gen 1 that said comments still very applicable!
Just finding the best source for the disc as Wemoto who I usually use don't have them ex stock, a few more days shouldn't be too bad; new pads, CS bolts and caliper clean ad service is on the way.
Cheers again
27
« on: 22 February 2017, 07:29:45 pm »
Just had the tyres changed and the shop reminded me that the rear disc at 45,000 miles is close to US ...(no no not Donald).
Looking on line think I'm going for a standard EBC disc at around £90 - the other makes I don't know about and have a few bad experiences on the KTMs with after market discs that wear out in a few miles.
Any thoughts?
The other issue is getting the old disc off as I understand that it's a 'mare - so plan is to warm the assembly up, at penetrating oil, leave, warm up again and then use impact driver on the heads. If they shear off then I'll have to drill out and retap.
Again any ideas would be really helpful.
Thanks guys
orlando
28
« on: 03 February 2017, 02:11:04 pm »
Didn't realise they were an issue - found this on the web:
29
« on: 02 February 2017, 09:13:56 pm »
Good idea, thank you - it's also a lot for work to change them so have ordered from Amazon, ok price and free delivery
30
« on: 02 February 2017, 08:13:58 pm »
Guys
Before Xmas I jet washed the bike and then stored it in a fairly humid shed until the new year - result took several miles to run even normally..... It's a 2009 bike of some 46,000 miles and has always run well until now.
Now 5 weeks later of commuting I've an intermittent low speed misfire - more like a slow speed cough stall I used to get on my old 525 Katie.
So the plan is, having bought a spare coil, to test all the coils, dry, strip and clean the wiring above the engine (spraying GT85 here caused a misfire)and maybe spray it with electrical sealer. I'm hoping that the problem is caused by a coil breaking down. Does this make sense?
Before I take the bike apart is there anything else I need to be looking at?
Many thanks
orlando
31
« on: 02 December 2016, 03:14:11 pm »
Hi Rob
Many thanks for the links through and detailed – so remove the caps and drain down; I’ll need to check on line for exact oil quants (assume it’s not measured on air gaps). Something for Xmas break. Think your fork compressor is a great idea!
Swapped over the shock last night – all generally good had to release the ABS pump to get the top bolt out; no top hat only a sleeve on the rhs that needed gently tapping back with a long punch/silver steel rod as it lined up with the shock bolt hole (hope it’s now drawn back ok when I did up the bolt). Bike rides a lot better now and have some final adjustments to make at the weekend and maybe properly grease the bearings that I didn’t do last night – annoying not to be able to get rid of the slack in the rear suspension even after fitting new bearings (last year).
Thank you for all your advice.
Myford – amazing what you can do with one!
Have a good weekend
orlando
32
« on: 30 November 2016, 01:51:24 pm »
Hi Rob
Thanks for the guidance - I was worried that the bolt would hit the ABS pump so hopefully tomorrow night will make the change as the ebay one arrived last night and seems in good order but has yellow spring instead of silver.... (we have a couple of KTMs/Husabergs for enduro and seem to change a lot of springs to get the weight right). Old one in bin then.
No damping makes for a grim ride especially in the frost. New tires (have flattened off) and new shock should do the job.
Have you rebuilt the front end as 43,000 is a long way commuting and am sure the oil is emulsified by now. Is it straightforward?
By the way the dog bone adjuster on the other post is very smart. Lathe at home or work?
Thanks again
orlando
33
« on: 28 November 2016, 09:57:53 pm »
Thanks Rob
Was worried about the clearance on the RHS.
Hopefully the newish one should arrive tomorrow. Am sure the only way to remove it is from the bottom - thanks for the reminder about the top hats.
Do you know if they are sealed for life or rebuildable?
orlando
34
« on: 28 November 2016, 08:40:13 pm »
Help!
Blown the rear shock on the 2009 FZ1 - only used for commuting so at 43,000 miles seems quite low mileage but then the roads are pretty bumpy....
Anyway got a second hand one on ebay 11,000 miles (as new one £ lots) but not too sure how to undo the top bolt and what needs to be removed so that the bolt can withdraw about 50 mm on the rhs. Is it easier to loosen the subframe?
Removing the bottom brackets and dropping the shock looks ok if I can jack it up to get enough clearance or over the pit.
Any help gratefully received.
Many thanks
35
« on: 03 August 2016, 07:43:34 pm »
Hi Harvey
Many thanks for the info and readings.
Primary reading is between the two LT connections (obvious..)
But secondary is the plug connection and one of the LT terminals - have I got that right?
Also will check out the ebay guys you mentioned - saw something like £37-50 each which is quite saving.
Thanks again
orlando
36
« on: 30 July 2016, 06:22:34 pm »
I've had the same probs - cured by very gently re-riveting the rivet with two sockets in the vice. Just adding a little clamping force on the rivet to take up the slack.
Have to do this once in a while - all good though!
37
« on: 28 July 2016, 06:07:17 pm »
Guys
I need to change the clutch cable on my Gen 2 FZ1 – any tips on the best/easiest way? Am fitting a 'smooth' one from Wemoto....
Also my clutch plates are on the way out (I ride it like a two stroke and slip the clutch - bad habit I know hence the clutch cable change as it's overused) any tips on changing them
+ I’ve heard that the EBS plates are good value and also help soften the ‘clunk’ when going into 1st. Any thoughts/experience?
Many thanks
38
« on: 28 July 2016, 06:01:29 pm »
Guys
can you help:
Need the metre ohm readings for the Gen 2 coils - I think I have an intermittent misfire and suspect one of the coils is on the way out.
So for the LV side - one range of readings for acceptable.
Ditto for the HV side.
Many thanks
39
« on: 14 April 2016, 01:40:15 pm »
Guys - thx for this - had another look on ebay and there was a new OEM for £250 so have bought it!
Hopefully should fit ok and maybe better quality than the Chinese ones unless they are all made in the same factory........
40
« on: 13 April 2016, 08:55:39 pm »
My 2009 FZ1 has had an on going radiator leak that I've tried to ignore - mainly caused by riding through the winter and rotting out the bottom of the matrix. I've bodged the leak with a 2 pack sealer and it's partially stopped the leak..... but now it's getting warmer I think the leak is going to spread.
I posted a question before on what to do and the answers are approx.:
Buy Yam original from UK
Buy Yam original from USA (better price and exchange rate)
Buy Chinese one from Ebay - £100. BUT has anyone fitted one yet? They all seem to come from the same manufacturers (just different sellers). Was thinking if it lasted a couple of years then it's fine? Does it fit ok including the fans etc?
Any thoughts - many thanks
41
« on: 02 February 2016, 01:37:13 pm »
Yup largish needle roller with sleeve - think the wear might be due to the fact have had tire change and then 2-3 punctures requiring more use of the tire changer.
42
« on: 02 February 2016, 06:27:24 am »
Checked rear wheel bearings - they're shot; that will be the third set in 35,000 miles and I've been pretty careful when fitting them (freeze new bearings and hot air gun on wheel etc). Think it's the pot holes and general bumps that catches the needle roller as don't have these probs even on the KTMs off road and they hit a lot of things! Any ideas? Many thanks 
43
« on: 01 February 2016, 08:36:55 pm »
Ok many thanks - will do. Just got in and checked rear wheel bearings - they're shot; that will be the third set in 35,000 miles and I've been pretty careful when fitting them (freeze new bearings and hot air gun on wheel etc). Think it's the pavement edges that catches the needle roller. 
44
« on: 01 February 2016, 01:40:15 pm »
Guys
Need to do a full service this weekend (but not valves...) and never changed the plugs before (garidge did it last time) - any tips please to avoid wasting too much time?
Many thanks
45
« on: 19 January 2016, 08:43:43 pm »
Am sure it's the base of the matrix but not leaked too badly today so will keep it going until I wort out the poa. Red!
46
« on: 19 January 2016, 01:46:48 pm »
Guys
Many thanks for all your help - Partzilla looks good especially as it's discounted from $400 and xchange rate is VG as well. Chinese copies seem a bit risky but the sellers get a 98% ok feedback so 1:50 chance of it being an issue and £200 saving!
I'll have another look tonight and see if I can figure out exactly where it's leaking - looks like it's the matrix.
Don't think rad seal is a sensible option.
Thx again
47
« on: 19 January 2016, 06:27:48 am »
Thanks Mick, price is good  I'm hoping someone can recommned which one to go for (both made in China) + have you tried any of the rad seal products?
48
« on: 18 January 2016, 07:35:38 pm »
Looks like it's corrosion so new core at least...
49
« on: 18 January 2016, 07:25:48 pm »
Guys Just got in from the daily commute (traffic v bad in SE London) to find I've holed my rad - not sure if it's corrosion or a stone but hard to identify exactly what the cause is. New one from Yam looks like around £370, any ideas on what my options are Any ideas would be v helpful! Thx orlando
50
« on: 31 December 2015, 03:38:35 pm »
Thanks Dek - I'll up the tickover a bit but I like the lower revs for commuting; still I ride it like a two stroke anyway so a bit more clutch slip won't hurt! Have a great New Year. 
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