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Messages - DekF
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51
« on: 16 June 2015, 10:49:19 pm »
It was a response to the original post billy.
52
« on: 16 June 2015, 10:39:34 pm »
What the 'state' could do to improve the gene pool is to shoot insensitive people like you who have no compassion for vulnerable, innocent children who have no say in their inevitable sad fate.
Edit BB: Toned it down for the General forum.
53
« on: 15 June 2015, 12:20:15 pm »
Think back to 2006 when the gen2 came out there was little or no dyno & fuelling info available. Things have moved on a lot. I spent a lot of time & expense getting it sorted. It took a few visits to the dynocentre & at least a hundred dynoruns to get it to perform at it's best. The revisits were necessary as I kept adding/changing things.
The first time it went it was mapped at all throttle positions & rpm, this took a full day as no maps were available. The final revisit a few months later was for a remap with the following mods:
PC3
Ignition module
FCE
DNA airfilter
Modified airbox
No secondary flies & spindle
Scorpion endcan
Factory Pro velocity stacks
The full throttle runs were 147rwhp & the part throttle runs were also optimised for best power.
I didn't get it dynoed with the full Akra but it usually gains 2-3 ponies up top with a full system so you should be at about 150. Having said it's unlikely you'll see those figures in the summer, you need a cool, crisp day :-)
Now, 9 years later there's a wealth of good info & some really good maps available for all configurations. If I bought another gen2 I'd just try a couple of maps for the closest configuration & settle on the one that felt best. I'd also get the ecu reflashed.
The dynoruns are online somewhere, including the old foc-u site & FZ1oa, I'll try to find them. :-)
54
« on: 13 June 2015, 10:40:30 pm »
Yeah i'm Worried about my trip away fuel stations etc. Ive got a givi 2.5 litre fuel can but wondering what sort of max distance people have had.
Paul, enjoy your tour of Wales, they sell fuel as well as speeding tickets, you'll be fine  I did 7 tours in 8 years each of 3k+ miles of western Europe on your bike. This included Sunday jaunts in France & it never ran dry. The farthest on reserve I saw before refuelling was 35 miles. I used to look at refuelling at the 90 ish marker & before but not always when the reserve warning lit. When we're touring Europe we look at stopping for fuel as an opportunity to take a breath, have a chat & maybe a coffee. It is afterall meant to be a holiday
55
« on: 07 June 2015, 02:54:49 pm »
Sorry bud see my edit
56
« on: 07 June 2015, 02:33:37 pm »
The tps is basically a potentiometer. The ecu measures the voltage coming from the tps & then knows the throttle position. So yes the voltage does increase as the throttle is turned. I suspect you didn't have the engine fully warmed up & your idle now isn't at the same rpm as when you set it last. Try fully warming it again & resetting. Of course there'll always be minor variations in voltage & you may not get better than that The above of course is only a very basic explanation. Edit: don't try getting 0v after a reset, it'll never happen, you're very, very close now. I'd try to reduce it a little but not let it bother you.
57
« on: 06 June 2015, 11:14:55 pm »
Noggy, I have some flies that were made for me that are the same size as Ivans, & which copperdog copied. They're not new obviously but they work just as well. Send me a postal address & they're yours, gratis
58
« on: 31 May 2015, 03:10:45 pm »
It isn't that much louder than the huge standard can. Aprilia fitted an exhaust valve purely for noise regs. it remains closed until 6000 rpm to pass the noise tests. (God only knows how they got away with that one!). I disconnected mine because it caused hunting on a steady throttle.. It's the best sounding bike i've ever owned... 
I can only guess how loud it is with the valve open Mine with Akra & bellypan to hide the hideous cat 
59
« on: 31 May 2015, 02:33:36 pm »
Went for a spin down to lanark-douglas- muirkirk strathaven...
Nice Tuono nick What is the volume like with that endcan, or is it like my s1r whereby most of the volume is muted by the exhaust valve. I ask because I fitted an Akra yesterday & while it's a little deeper in tone it doesn't sound any louder. I'll post a pic if I can remember how to 
60
« on: 31 May 2015, 02:26:51 pm »
Rode the Guzzi to Minehead today ,stopping at Riders in Bridgewater on the way , getting used to it, I reckon 75 miles each way is about far as my upper back can take , the mind is willing ,just wish the body felt the same way .
Love the Guzzi We followed one from Baden-Baden on the B500 a couple of years back. The old? rider was clad in black, oldstyle leathers. He didn't hang about & the bike handled beautifully. I don't know what model it was but it was fun to follow on such a great road.
61
« on: 24 May 2015, 11:03:42 pm »
The warmed engine temperature idle is best at 1250 - 1300. Any less & you risk temperamental starting & a lumpy tickover.
The enriched idle for cold starts should be 1500 - 2000.
62
« on: 23 May 2015, 12:36:32 pm »
The clutch microswitch is part of the starting cutout circuit. As has been said it stops the engine turning over when in gear (without the clutch lever pulled).
As your engine still spins with the starter button & the clutch lever not pulled it's not the reason for the non starting.
Once on tour, my gen 2 spun the engine but it wouldn't fire. I switched it off & on & it immediately fired up. It rarely happened again but when it did, I just repeated the process.
63
« on: 17 May 2015, 12:10:52 pm »
 A simple " fuckoff " would have been okay as well
64
« on: 27 April 2015, 02:13:52 pm »
Best wishes for a speedy recovery Nick.
It only takes a lapse of concentration at the wrong time to end up in a hedgerow. There but for the grace of god etc...
65
« on: 21 April 2015, 04:23:22 pm »
Did you get it sorted? If not, send me a pm & I'll guide you through it
66
« on: 21 April 2015, 04:19:49 pm »
Castrol Power 1 Racing is one of the best oils there is on the market. It was designed for high performance motorcycle engines.
It's in my S1000r & it was used in Mr Brooker's FZ1 for nearly 30k miles until I changed to Halfords fully synthetic.
67
« on: 16 March 2015, 10:28:55 pm »
Glad to be of help Billy Paul, enjoy the FZ1, I did as much as I could with it & I'm pleased it's gone to someone who'll appreciate it. But carbon  As to the s1r, it's phenomenal but I'm not going to say how good as it'd be unfair 
68
« on: 16 March 2015, 10:14:51 pm »
Removing the secondary flies gives a significant boost to throttle response & torque.
I tried all the permutations. Ziptied, smaller, none & no flies & spindle.
The best throttle response was with no flies & removed spindle.
The mod requires a significant amount of fuel added at part & mid throttle openings. We did umpteen dyno runs in 06/07 to get it right.
It will not work without a pc3,V or bazzaz etc.
Anyone who says it isn't worth it is running the wrong fuelling map.
69
« on: 11 March 2015, 08:41:36 pm »
There is a simple way of checking if the FCE is working. Get the rpm to 8k+, fully close the throttle & then reopen the throttle. If it hesitates or there's snatchiness it means the throttle bodies are dry & either the FCE is faulty or not fitted. Believe me, on earlier models it makes a huge difference over stock. The pcv fits all model years & it adds or subtracts fuel by percentage so I can't see why they'd make a one specific to French restricted bikes. Just checked, yes it's the same model number. The FZ1 I sold Mr B will eat a stock bike for breakfast, there's no comparison  Hope that helps
70
« on: 07 March 2015, 12:44:25 pm »
If you're really intent on having the warning lamp you could use a relay. Btw, have you confirmed that the light goes out by reducing the oil level. Schlumpf is your man, he's an electronics whizz, if you ask nicely he'd probably draw you a schematic.
71
« on: 07 March 2015, 10:31:15 am »
He doesn't mean reversing the wires.
What he's saying is that if the original meter required n/c contacts in the oil level switch to illuminate the warning light then the new meter assembly may require a n/o type switch.
72
« on: 01 March 2015, 09:35:16 am »
That homemade spring compressor is very clever Billyboy.
I changed the fork oil & seals 3 times on my FZ1 & that simple system would have saved me about 2 hours each time.
I used 2 lengths of threaded rod with a 90* bend to fit the slots & a flat plate at the bottom. It was a slow & laborious method. Your method has really impressed me I wish I'd thought of it.
Btw, anyone experiencing harshness in the forks can try a lighter oil in the compression leg than the rebound leg. It's tried & tested & does work & was in my thou when I sold it.
Dek
73
« on: 01 February 2015, 04:28:28 pm »
The multimeter is served by a red/green feed & black ground wire.
The 1st place to look & prone to corrosion is the 6 way connector block ( of which the r/g & bk wire can be found ) under the leftside fairing infill panel.
Separate the plug & socket & look for signs of corrosion. Hopefully you'll find some, carefully clean the contacts using contact cleaner & a small screwdriver until clean metal can be seen. Finally, coat with some dielectric grease.
Goodluck
Dek
74
« on: 21 July 2014, 10:37:32 pm »
Seeing as you feel the need to post the same thread in both the general & thou forums I shall reply in both:
It's your bike, your life, your responsibility. There's no point passing the blame onto others or bleating about what's happened, accept it as a warning & in future take a more pro active role in the bike's maintenance. You don't need an engineering degree to check the tightness of nuts, bolts & fasteners.
The front caliper holding bolts should be torqued to 29ft/lbs & coated with blue loctite. The rear caliper bolts to 20ft/lb &16ft/lb & again coated with blue loctite.
Tightening them to "hard" isn't recognised as an acceptable measurement.
75
« on: 21 July 2014, 10:33:19 pm »
Yeah, I agree with Paul above. It's your bike, your life, your responsibility. There's no point passing the blame onto others or bleating about what's happened, accept it as a warning & in future take a more pro active role in the bike's maintenance. You don't need an engineering degree to check the tightness of nuts, bolts & fasteners.
The front caliper holding bolts should be torqued to 29ft/lbs & coated with blue loctite. The rear caliper bolts to 20ft/lb &16ft/lb & again coated with blue loctite.
Tightening them to "hard" isn't recognised as an acceptable measurement.
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