To ' sadlonelygit'....... yes, laugh all you want, it has about the same output as a gen1 as standard. ( Wait till it's tweaked though & then try being a comic )
Output though is where the similarities end. It is ahead in every other department.
I think it looks great & those cans really suit it. Enjoy the experience bbb 

However I won't just wear it a matter of course after an experience some years ago: I was riding on a country road and there was a guy cutting a hedge. He was wearing green Hi-viz jacket and trousers and it wasn't until he moved that I actually saw him because it was green against green, and was acting as camouflage!

That's because he was probably doing the same speed as you were 

I need to source a power point take of which is switched on/off by ignition on both gen1 and gen2 anyone help

Luke, is it to power a relay or a directly connected heavy load. A relay only draws milliamps but a heavy load could be upto 15 amps.
If it's a relay the rear light circuit is sufficient but if not you may need a relay anyway to switch the load.

Derby's correct, so only a couple of hours away from Shepperton. Well worth the trip for a bike with that history & condition. 

   Lighten up fazerdud. It was lighthearted banter not meant to be taken literally.
Mike has already posted the link to all the info he'd ever need.

Hi
It sounds like the thermowax unit is stuck in the fully open position thus not allowing the enrichment at startup.
The following is adapted from a post I did about 3 year ago but still relevant. It's a step by step guide to checking it's functioning correctly.
You should preferably remove the tank but you can instead just chock it up by placing a piece of 2 x 2 timber on top of the frame and under the rear lip.This has the advantage over propping it up of giving better access under the tank and you'll be able to run the engine later.The airbox needs to be removed but you can leave the velocity stacks sat in the airbox base just slacken the 6 bolts right off.Disconnect the 2 coolant hoses , there'll be almost no loss of fluid. I'd suggest at this point that before you remove the thermowax unit that you check the plunger for rust etc or worse case wax.If it looks ok spray some WD40 on it and work the plunger with your fingers. It should move freely apart from the spring tension.Any signs of wax and it'll need replacing.Reconnect the coolant hoses and airbox and start the engine.The plunger should be in the closed position & not move till about 75 - 80*C when it should then extend fully pushing the tang onto the tickover adjustment screw thus reducing the rpm's to tickover level. I suspect you'll find it fully extended & stuck solid regardless of the rpm's. Rev it, get it nice and hot, let the fans kick-in and observe the rpm's. If they rise unexpectedly check to see if the plunger is still pressed against the tickover screw.If it isn't, the unit will need to be removed and maybe replaced, but I'd try copious amounts of WD40 first.To remove the unit undo the 2 screws, disconnect the spring, take the tickover adjustment cable out of it's holder and pull clear.With it out of the bike split the unit and clean and oil the plunger thoroughly before retrying it. Hopefully though, it can be sorted in situ.Also, while you're in there give the throttle cable mechanisms a good oiling.
Dek


Set the tickover to 1250 - 1300

No recall unfortunately, it'll be expensive to fix 

It's not a straightforward swap either.
Your best bet is to read up on the FZ1OA & get as much information as possible for you to work with.

http://www.yamahafz1oa.com/forum/showthread.php?t=128612

There's always the s1r. Being 6'3" it would suit you no problem especially with the 'comfort' seat which adds another 20mm to the seat height.
I moved from the gen1 to gen2 to it so can vouch for the easy transition.


I was in a similar situation to you with regards selling the fazer, they're not nearly as well thought of by those who've haven't owned them. I sold my well modded gen2 at way under ( to me ) it's true value. My consolation of course was seeing the s1r sat there in the garage.

Those coils were originally on a 2010 R1. Very low miles apparently.
£80 the set of 4.
I still have the original 4 which I assume only one of which is faulty. :-)

I had exactly the same ticking on mine which developed at a similar mileage.
It was due to an excessive valve clearance on the far right inlet valve, just next to the camchain 
I set all the clearances to within spec & the ticking was no more.


Edit: On a general note, valve clearances can tick & worn chains rattle.

Look at the OP's posting date....Zombie thread..............
From memory I think it was the stator assembly imploding.
Peter btw, has now joined the nouveau riche. He's bought an s1r 

Reduce the coolant/antifreeze to water ratio to 25:75 & it will run cooler.
I also used 'water wetter' in my FZ1 & the temperature reduced again.
One year in Italy it was showing 113* in traffic. The next year in similar circumstances with reduced coolant & 'water wetter' added about 105*
Definitely though check for an airlock, I used to squeeze the coolant hoses after refilling but never experienced an airlock issue anyway