True, I've switched back to the pr4 for the run up to Christmas then onto the storm 3d xm then the conti motion then back to the pp3 in April.

As an engineer I would agree, practical functional and future proof but button heads are considered more aesthetically pleasing.
If practicality was a consideration everything would be Stainless and bike would be a lot more expensive.
It goes together quick, looks pretty and the components are cheap. One it's our of warranty it's your problem.

I would advise against engine oil, as unlikely as it is there is a chance with it being a liquid that it could leak out and get onto the disc.
If you want to lubricate them I would suggest a high temperature soap based bearing grease or some anti squeal brake pad grease.

There are always top  spec options too like nitron (recommended) or ohlins or hyperpro.

Quote from: celticbiker on 19 November 2017, 09:50:48 am

Doesn't look like water damage to me either. Looks more like a short circuit or high current load causing the connector to overheat.
I guess if the connector spades are badly corroded it could cause a high resistance and result in what you see.
It's possible that the previous owner had fuses blowing because of this so just chucked in a big fuse to get around it.
After repairing this problem I would suggest checking all the other connectors and cleaning with Duck oil (not wd40) or acf 50 to prevent any future problems.

But since the wire is stripped at the tip, if water got there, wouldn't it short-circuit?
So, by cleaning all connectors I would lower their resistance and prevend them from overheating, is that it?

It's surprisingly difficult to short circuit something with water unless you submerge it or pour on a cup full, corrosion over time causing resistance is usually the result of water ingress
Yes, cleaning connectors and preventing future corrosion via Duck oil or ACF50 will lower the resistance (to within designed parameters) and prevent this from happening in the future.
I do this globally every 2 years and every year just before winter on exposed or important ones like the main relay and the two connector blocks on top of the radiator (Fazer .
I cover 20000 miles/year in all weather and cannot stress enough the need to properly maintain the electrical system and having a few spares makes an unexpected breakdown a lot less stressful.
I always keep a main relay, starter relay and flasher relay on hand just in case but that's just me as I also keep a full set of chassis bearings ( wheels, swing arm and headstock) chain and sprockets and a set of fork seals and spare wheels with tyres, just makes life so much less stressful.

Those are awesome.
I'll get some for Swmbo for Christmas.
Are they battery power or mains?

Got a pair of Weiss ones a couple of years ago.  As stated above the batteries only lasted about 18 months (about 500 charges) and getting caught in a monsoon on the motorway with my gloves on the outside refilled with the left one shorting  out and never working again.
I'm going Santa brings me some weird ones this year.
Oh BTW, when they worked the batteries only lasted for 2 hours as well.

For stuck caliper pistons I use duck oil and a G clamp.
Give it a good clean with duck oil and a rag then gently and slowly clamp back into place, remove clamp and pump piston or about 75% and repeat until smooth and free.
When happy push the piston in and clean with brake cleaner. Finally apply a smear of red rubber grease to the piston.
I have specified duck oil for this as it is safe for use on the seals. Do not use wd40 it will destroy them.

Unfortunately not got 'promoted' a couple of years back now I'm solid 9-5.
Pita tbh

Where are you based Cy? Maybe we can meet up and compare notes.

Oops different Celtic, LOL! 2 cleaver buggers.

Hey look, I've been married for 25 years I'll take compliments where I can get them these days. 😅

Errr, when was this?