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Topics - mobile mouse
1
« on: 23 September 2020, 07:07:48 pm »
Hi,
Got home today put bike on sidestand and spotted oil on the floor. got down and it was coming down the front nearside corner of the engine.. see the picture. It ran down where the brown stain is. can anyone say were this is coming from do i have a hole somewhere.
started the bike and no leak so not sure what is happening.
any help appreciated...
2
« on: 21 May 2020, 12:14:30 am »
Hi, stripped and cleaning calipers over lockdown... revealed one front caliper with siezed piston and badly rusted pot. so purchased repacement caliper. Rear caliper has siezed pad pin!!!!! will not come out allen head rounded now also.
First thing first...
So just recieved an ebay replacement caliper with pads which have loads of brake material left.... Now caliper was wrapped in bubble wrap with pads still fitted. But caliper was not drained and the whole lot was soaked in brake fluid which had leaked out of banjo bolt.
My question is after cleaning off all the brake fluid with brake cleaner can i use the pads..... They look to be sintered metal pads and have HH on back.
Can I use them will they have absorbed any brake fluid.... I am assuming it was DOT4. Can i cook them in the oven to dry them out.
Best way to get rear pad pin out....
3
« on: 20 September 2019, 09:49:37 pm »
MY03 200miles of 55k.
Replaced the headers probably 8-9 years ago cannot remember with what but they are SS and looking ok for thier age.
But this week i started to notice at startup an odd noise at idle. I stop at a set of lights 1/2 mile from home every weekday and by then the noise disappears until the last few days.
So it's definatly turned into blowing headers. The nuts are SS and holding up to the year round weather that is thrown at them but this is the big but
the studs (90116-06475)
look like they have rotted with corrosion can this happen to a 55k 16year old bike.
Will I need to replace the studs with new one's which i know can be a knightmare.
may try and put a photo on tomorrow.....
4
« on: 25 June 2019, 09:45:08 pm »
Fitted new chain & sprockets this morning bought a530 pitch 110 link Ognibene Gold Chain and Ognibene sprockets std 15 teeth front and 48 rear. the rivet pin was a little different than a DID one but i thought I had fitted it ok. Went out for a test ride and after 20mins thought all was well. On way home at 50mph bang the rivet link let go...... Should have gone to garage and had it checked.... So pushed bike home 1/2 mile..... very hot today I was drenched when I got home.. the rivet link grabed hold of the top bolt which holds the bearing cover plate (sits behind the front sprocket) and mangled it up it's item 36 on the ajsutton website see [size=78%]https://www.ajsutton.co.uk/genuineparts/9654/13/yamaha-fzs600-fazer-1998/crankcase?uID=0[/size]It is only tightened up to 10Nm so not holding anything other than the cover plate. But the casting has been ripped out you can see half the threads with a chunk missing from the left side. So I am a little unhappy with myself for not doing a propper job. So need to work out how to fix it and hope I havn't trashed the gearbox or any other internals. I will try and get a photo loaded at the weekend after I remove the front sprocket...
5
« on: 24 June 2019, 09:38:03 pm »
completed full overhaul to both front calipers and replaced the pads.... back to great front brakes...
started on the rear... Not done for some time. Still got some meat on the pads, one caliper pad pin came out with some persuasion. But the 2nd was a pig.
lots of Plus gas and then a good alen key and pop the key stripped the hex.
Any ideas how to get it out. I have been looking at bolt removers and even watched video on Delboy's Garage
https ://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nSxhvYu-x4g
But i don't have a welder... I do have JB Weld Original anyone tried this...
6
« on: 26 July 2018, 10:30:05 pm »
Hi, Does anyone know what the inner diameter of the coolant tank pipe. Mine looks to have started to show signs of it perishing.
So i was looking to replace the pipe but need to get the right size to fit onto the tank.
7
« on: 15 July 2018, 11:41:01 pm »
Hi,
Bike fitted with 12mm front sprocket. If and when I need to change chain and sprockets front/rear.
Do I need to replace the present 12mm nut or can I re-use present nut....
8
« on: 29 May 2018, 07:38:14 pm »
Hi, Trying to remove a rusted in fork seals.... Removed top cap drained oil and took out spring and washers inc spacer. Now dust seal was difficult to get out then the space behind was full or road salt. The spring clip was rusted in and snapped in two places getting it out.
cleaned up the area and now trying to remove the fork seal with the sliding method... Will not budge.
Not removed the hex bolt from the bottom as just doing a fork seal and oil replacement.
The oil seal just does not want to move. I even clamped the lower into the workbench so I could really give it some. But it will not shift.
Any help would be appreciated.
I have the 2nd fork to do and that is no better under the dust seal so expecting the same issue.
9
« on: 17 April 2018, 09:30:08 pm »
I need to remove the black fork cover from the top of the lower fork.
Are they easy do i rotate it and pull or what. I don't want to damage the Alu or the fork cover...
10
« on: 10 November 2016, 11:52:28 pm »
Hi, About to service the forks with new oil.... and maybe new linear springs. But thinking about having them vapour blasted to really clean them up....
The bike is a Foxeye MY03 with about 44k on the clock and ridden all year round. Are they painted and if so what is the colour. Or is it alu and a clear coat on top....
Your thoughts are appreciated.
11
« on: 08 September 2016, 09:36:54 pm »
Hi all, Has anyone replaced the coolant with evans waterless coolant? See the following YouTube video:
I am looking to remove the coolant overflow tank as I have a FZS1000 rear shock. And to fit it I need to swap the 600 spring over onto the 1000 shock. I will not need to modify the shock if the coolant tank is not there as it gets in the way..... Am I correct in assuming to remove the coolant tank if I install the evans waterless coolant...
12
« on: 02 September 2016, 10:10:31 pm »
Hi all, Doing a full service on both front calipers. The lower smaller pots are not stuck but but were quite difficult to remove and both inboard pots being the hardest to get out. On one the dust seal is knackered so i ordered a new seal kit for both calipers. Akit from powerhouse-uk a recommendation on the forum http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/160763971612?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT The pots are looking ok after 44k miles and will clean up ok. But there are pitting 5-7mm from the end of the pot. Next service I do will require probablynew pots. Where have people purchased pots from or do I buy OEM ?
13
« on: 26 June 2016, 08:58:34 pm »
Hi All,
Just replaced my front discs after 42k miles on as MY03 foxeye.
I may have had sintered pads fitted for the last 22k miles, definitely about 12k miles.
Back to my question, has the sintered pad eaten my disc's.
Have I sacrificed stopping power for increased disc wear.
Are there other pads I should be looking at. I have just binned the SBS sintered pads and fitted BENDIX BEN-134-MF also sintered.
Being realistic though, can you get great stopping power with minimal disc wear.
Thoughs appreciated......
14
« on: 17 June 2016, 05:25:44 pm »
Hi,
Bike just failed MOT.... booo hooo
Of all things front brake discs down to 2.5mm.
Cannot complain bike has done 42k on originals.
What are people replacing them with.... I have been quoted £240 for a pair of EBC's from the local motorcycle shop...
Cheers,
15
« on: 06 June 2015, 08:27:42 pm »
Hi, Deep cleaned the front sprocket cover today. Its now spotless.
But I want to refill the clutch mechanism with grease. I have searched the forum as someone posted instructions on what to do.
Can anyone point me at the post please.
16
« on: 04 June 2015, 08:50:46 am »
Hi, Finally getting all the wheel back together and started to clean up the brake hanger. Only to find both bolts fitting the tension bar have siezed. I can remove the nut ok. But the bolts will not move independant of the alu hanger they are possibly welded together with road salt and crap. And the tension bar is stuck at a fixed angle, I have not released the tension on the bolt yet is it suposed to swing when bolted up. Any idead as to the best way without bending anything to get the bolts out, I have sprayed Plus Gas all over both nut/bolts and the hanger and the bolt now rotate but together by hand. Befrore you needed a socket wrench on the bolt to rotate them so the penetrating fluid is working worked. If the top nut and bolt comes of ok I can remove the tension bar with the hanger attached then I should be able to hammer the bolt out. But if not, am I going to have to revert to heat or is there some method of pushing the bolt out from the threaded side without damaging/bending anything. Just when I could see the finish line I have to go around the track again.......
17
« on: 17 May 2015, 09:32:31 pm »
Hi help required, Bike chain needs replacing. So removed axle nut and then took the adjusters apart. I have had no problems adjusting the chain. The tyre was changed 3 years ago and I think this was the last time the axle has been removed.
I can rotate the axle with the socket when the nut is removed. using a block and hammer the axle moved about 5mm. But how do I now get it all the way out without trashing the thread. Thought about putting a bolt that will fit inside the hollow axle to stop the end from getting trashed and using chrome vanadium socked extension and just hitting hard.
But is this the right way or do I take it the shop and get them to do it.
Will the bearings be trashed, they are the original 36k miles and 12 years old ridded through all 11 winters..... The wheel runs fine, no grinding so I just think one has stuck to the axle. I don't want to trash the axle getting it out...
Cheers,
18
« on: 15 April 2015, 11:18:44 pm »
Hi, Help needed.
The part i am talking about is part number 4PU-2331G-00-00 listed as ref number 42 in the parts manual.
Its the black plastic cover at the top of the fork lower and protects the dust seal.
I am going to have my fork lowers vapour blasted and need them to be completely stripped.
19
« on: 05 April 2015, 12:37:47 am »
Hi, About to replace oil in fork legs and thinking to have the fork legs cleaned of corrosion. Been told about vapour blasting see http://www.fjaquablasting.co.uk/index.htmlBut what do i put back on clear coat or silver powder coat? does any one know what the finish is... please.
20
« on: 16 July 2014, 10:03:43 pm »
Hi, I may have overtightened one of the rear bleed nipples by 1/4 turn.
Have I damaged the bleed screw or damaged the thread in the caliper, not sure which. It is an original bleed screw. It doesn't leak but I am kicking myself for turning it too much.
cheers,
21
« on: 23 June 2014, 09:10:40 pm »
Hi, Does anyone know were you can buy the blanking caps. I filled up with fuel from a fuel can that had been sitting in the garage for about 4 days. Subsequently the bike started running with a misfire which looked to be getting worse. Initially I thought it was contaminated fuel and was going to have to siphon it out and throw away. But I noticed after going over the bike (MY03) one of the blanking caps you take off to balance the carbs had perished. The carb must have been sucking air through the split cap causing the hesitation. I have temporary fixed by wrapping it in self amalgamating tape which has worked, no hesitation, but would like a replacement.
I cannot find the part in the fazer parts list 2003 (pages 11,12). Does anyone know which item it is in the pages so I can get a part number.
Cheers,
22
« on: 31 May 2014, 09:32:23 pm »
Hi, Split rear caliper all clean now. What is the torque setting for the two bolts that clamp the two halves together, please.
Cheers,
23
« on: 29 May 2014, 01:19:22 pm »
Hi, Came to service the brakes this last weekend to find front fine, but back was siezed up. It looks like this winters salt and brake dust has blocked the bottom of the caliper around the retaining spring and the pads have sat ina bath of water. The salt has then pushed the dust seal out as I can see bits of rubber around each piston. The good news is they push out under hydraulic presure the bad news is at the moment they don't go back under finger pressure. I am going to do the full works and remove pistons and clean out all the crud and replace with new seals. Do I crack in half the caliper is this looks to be the quickest way to clean everythink up, better access inside. Does our rear caliper have the little rubber O-ring that joins brake fluid gallery between the two pieces of the caliper. Or do we have a gasket! Cheers,
25
« on: 29 April 2014, 12:39:04 pm »
Hi, I was adjusting the chain for slack last night and the axle did move back reluctantly. Especially on the brake caliper side it really looks crudded up. So I took off both nuts on one side but I could not get the end plate off. To clean inside. Can it get really crudded inside with winter riding that this endplate gets stuck. Has anyone else suffered this. I didn't want to resort to any heavy handedness till I know if it just requires a tap with a screwdriver and hammer to knock off the end plate. I don't want to damage the threads. I looked at some pictures of the endplates and they have 4 corner pieces which I am assuming are crudded up with road salt inside the swing arm. Any help would be appreciated.
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