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Messages - Paul
26
« on: 05 July 2017, 08:33:02 am »
If you change your exhaust headers make sure the restrictor point of the new set is similar in overall opening size to the original set.
The original outlet measured: 35mm (narrowest point) to 43.5mm (widest point) externally at its most restricted point.
I’m not sure what the wall thickness is but I reckon it must be somewhere between 1.0mm and 2.00mm, my original pipes are still in good condition and I was loathe to saw them up to find out.
In any event the Motad replacement header system outlet pipe is has a clear open area of 1364sqm. Whereas the original outlet is restricted to somewhere between 962sqm and 1075sqm.
When I fitted the Motad headers the power band almost evaporated and a gas analyser showed it be running far too weak, this being supported by the plug colour.
A further test was done by a lazer temp gauge on the exhaust clamp bracket of both original and new pipes and this showed the exhaust gas temp had risen.
To solve the issue the Motad pipe was sleeved down first to 1075sqm which improved things no end, and finally down to 975sqm, which seemed to be better.
Plugs were checked and exhaust gas analysed and the results were as good as I could get them.
27
« on: 05 July 2017, 08:24:03 am »
Personal view
The sprocket nut is there to stop the sprocket sliding off the output shaft.
It doesn’t need to tighten flush with the sprocket to do this.
The output shaft is the fault on some of the fazers. The grooves in some output shafts are cut slightly too wide.
This allows the sprocket to move backwards and forwards on the shaft when placed under load or off load.
Because the nut is tight against the sprocket it continually rotates slightly on the threads… wearing them out.
The answer in my opinion is grind down the flange on the sprocket nut so that when it tightens on the shaft it is simply flush with the sprocket but does not tighten against it…. And put some grease on the sprocket to further ease the junction between the nut and sprocket.
Therefore there is insufficient ‘grip’ between the sprocket and the nut so it doesn't turn the nut.
In essence you want to tighten the nut up on the output shaft but not tighten it up against the sprocket.
28
« on: 29 March 2017, 06:57:45 am »
I've got stainless steel headers and take them off once a year to clean the exhaust system.
I've never replaced the exhaust gaskets.
I just give them a coat of silicone (the stuff window fitters use) before re-fitting the headers.
It's always seemed to seal them.
29
« on: 06 February 2017, 10:41:27 am »
Changed my front headlamp etc. in 2003
Instruments are mounted using a bracket and extended nut from the handlebar clamps
30
« on: 19 November 2016, 10:48:00 am »
If you want to bypass the starter cut out relay and circuits:
Connect the white/blue wire from the solenoid to the white/blue wire in the brown plug in wiring junction box under the tank
The white/blue wire in the brown plug runs to the starter button
I had a very similar problem last week.
Ultimately it turned out to be one of the alarm loop wires under the seat near the cdi box (the plug had come partially disconnected)
31
« on: 17 November 2016, 10:09:43 am »
I had a similar problem with mine about two weeks ago
Pressed the starter button and nothing happened at all
No clicking from the solenoid
It turned out that the alarm loop plug had come disconnected.
The alarm loop plugs (two of them) are located under the seat near the CDI box.
I think that's where you connect an alarm if you have one.
How one of them got disconnected... I've no idea.
Anyway thanks to 'Unfazed' it now seems to work fine.
32
« on: 10 November 2016, 10:53:12 am »
To Unfazed
Checked the two white plugs under the seat with the black wire looping in and out.
One of them was not properly connected, it looked like it was but the little plastic clip was not clipped behind the bit where it was supposed to be.
In any event I disconnected the by pass wire I had installed and tried the bike firstly with the connector how it was when I found it, and secondly when it was properly connected.
The bike then started up.
I have had the bike from new and I've never touched these connectors, so I've no idea how its become disconnected.
So it looks like I owe you a very big thank you.
THANK YOU Unfazed, your help is greatly appreciated.
33
« on: 10 November 2016, 09:58:41 am »
To Unfazed
Took the seat off and there are two white plugs in the back part of seat well close to what I assume is the CDI box they both have one black wire looping in and out, are these the ones you mean?
Yes the other bike I tried the starter cut off relay on is identical same model same year, it's even the same colour scheme.
34
« on: 09 November 2016, 12:29:47 pm »
The bikes continued doing the same thing..... not starting.
In any event if it's any help to someone else this is what I think it is .
Either an intermittent, possibly temperature related fault in the starter cut off relay.
Or a break or bad connection in the wiring loom somewhere between the solenoid (starter relay) and the brown plug in the wiring junction box
To fix it (it's worked so far) connect the blue and white wire from the solenoid (starter relay) to the blue and white wire in the brown plug in the wiring junction box under the tank.
35
« on: 01 November 2016, 05:40:06 pm »
Dudeness, thanks for the reply
I don't think it's the starter because the solenoid didn't click and the oil and fuel sensor lights didn't come on when I pressed the starter button.
I think pressing the starter button earths the oil and fuel sensor lights and causes them to come on until you release the starter button and then they're only earthed when you've not enough fuel or oil.
36
« on: 01 November 2016, 05:16:48 pm »
Went over to my friends house on Sunday, had a brew, got back on the bike and it wouldn't start.
Everything worked bar the starting system
Managed to bump start it and rode home without a problem
Tried several times starting it again but with no luck
You couldn't even here the solenoid click
And I've never experienced an electrical fault or starter fault before and I've had the bike from new
I have another 600 Fazer, so I swapped:
Starter button
Starter relay
Starter cut out relay
Battery
On to the other bike and they all worked and the bike started and ran fine.
Checked the wiring with a multi meter and it seemed ok
put the original, Starter button, [/size]Starter relay, [/size]Starter cut out relay, [/size]Battery back on the bike.
[/size]
Put all the connector blocks backed together, and the damn thing started no problem.
So I'm guessing I've got an intermittent electrical fault on the stater circuit somewhere.
Has anyone else experienced anything similar, and if so did you find out what caused it?
The bikes a 2001 Fazer and its done 86,000 miles
37
« on: 08 October 2016, 10:52:53 am »
Just a thought: Is your fuel tank breather partially blocked?
38
« on: 03 October 2016, 12:32:17 pm »
Mines done 86,000.
Had it from new.
But you can here the cam chain and the valves, it sounds a bit like someone shaking a tin half filled with lightly oiled washers.
It still pulls well but it does use oil....... it will empty the sight glass window in under two thousand miles.
39
« on: 22 September 2016, 03:30:40 pm »
To Darrsi and Celticdog
Thanks for the advice.
The only other pieces of advice I think I need are:
Which side do you take the engine out of?
And what stuff do need take off the motor to enable it come out of the frame (other than the usual pipes, cables, carbs and wires)
40
« on: 19 September 2016, 09:35:34 am »
To Celticdog
I'm thinking of refurbishing my fazer, and the centre stand needs painting.
Have you any tips about getting the stand off and on.
41
« on: 23 August 2016, 08:55:32 am »
I had a problem with my front disc brakes binding, it was around 10 or 12 years ago.
But from memory it was the seals in the calipers that needed changing.
The seals act as springs to return the piston slightly and stop it rubbing on the disc.
In any event I changed the seals and the brake fluid and I've not had a problem since.
From memory I reckon what caused it was either:
1) Caning it backwards and forwards over the Hard Knot and Wrynose pass... and over-heating the brakes.
or
2) Bleeding the brakes with the wrong brake fluid.
Never found out which though.
42
« on: 29 June 2016, 04:18:24 pm »
Bought my Fazer new in 2001
And I've used sintered pads since I first changed them when the original ones wore out ..... God knows when ago.
Bikes now done 83,000 miles and the discs are o.k.
43
« on: 02 June 2016, 09:48:36 am »
Given that you've checked everything else, I'd bypass the fuel pump and see what happens.
It could be a faulty pump or an intermittent electrical issue.
44
« on: 23 March 2016, 12:35:43 pm »
If you change your exhaust headers make sure the restrictor point of the new set is similar in overall opening size to the original set.
The original outlet measured: 35mm (narrowest point) to 43.5mm (widest point) externally at its most restricted point.
I’m not sure what the wall thickness is but I reckon it must be somewhere between 1.0mm and 2.00mm, my original pipes are still in good condition and I was loathe to saw them up to find out.
In any event the Motad replacement header system outlet pipe is has a clear open area of 1364sqm. Whereas the original outlet is restricted to somewhere between 962sqm and 1075sqm.
When I fitted the Motad headers the power band almost evaporated and a gas analyser showed it be running far too weak, this being supported by the plug colour.
A further test was done by a lazer temp gauge on the exhaust clamp bracket of both original and new pipes and this showed the exhaust gas temp had risen.
To solve the issue the Motad pipe was sleeved down first to 1075sqm which improved things no end, and finally down to 975sqm, which seemed to be better.
Plugs were checked and exhaust gas analysed and the results were as good as I could get them.
It is my understanding that if you don’t get the right back pressure the engine will run to weak and it is possible that you may end up damaging the exhaust valve edges and seats.
45
« on: 01 March 2016, 09:36:17 am »
I
I reckon the reason why the problem with the front sprocket nut exists is
Minor play between the sprocket and shaft, due to shaft or sprocket being machined out of tolerance.
Nut tightened up on the sprocket.
Sprocket moves fractionally back and forward, and because the nut is tight to it, so does the nut.
Nut threads wear out as do the shaft threads.
Possible solution: Grind down the over-lap of the nut so it tightens up on the shaft and not on the sprocket.
In essence it should be flush with the sprocket but not tightening up against it.
Ideally make sure there's a layer of grease between nut / security washer / sprocket.
46
« on: 07 February 2016, 02:18:53 pm »
My cam chain stared rattling somewhere between 50,000 and 60,000 miles.
Never got round to doing anything about it.
Bikes now done 82,000 and it's still rattling of course, but it hasn't failed.
As regards cost, it depends on whether you fit an endless chain (very expensive), or a soft link one (much cheaper).
If memory serves I think I was quoted around £500 for an endless one because the engines got to come out, and £150 for a soft link one, (both prices were for labour only and were ex v.a.t.) but that was ages ago.
47
« on: 10 September 2015, 08:11:18 am »
To Harry
The sprocket carrier bearing and drive side rear wheel bearing collapsed on my bike last year.... the bike had done around 78,000 at that point.
I still wonder whether over-tightening the nut many times was the cause..... they could have simply worn out of course.
In any event I wouldn't over-tighten the rear axle nut.
48
« on: 29 August 2015, 09:42:15 am »
I had a similar plug issue once in 2009.
I unscrewed the offside plug, which came out fine, but I noticed a copper washer on the bottom of it (as well as the usual spark plug washer). Apart from the bike's first service, I've done every one, and I haven't added an extra copper washer.
In any event I couldn't get the new plug back in the hole, it just locked up almost straight away.
I decided to re-cut the plug threads using an old plug that I cut grooves in with a dremil.
After much piss-malling about, I finally got another spark plug in the hole.
I used Iridium tipped plugs and I haven't changed them since.
The bike had done around 50000 miles when I changed them in 2009
And it's now done over 80000.
I reckon if I ever had to change that plug....that would probably be it..... because I have feeling that whilst I will be able to get the plug out, I don't reckon I'd get another one in.
However until now, I've never come across anyone that has experienced a similar problem.
49
« on: 23 July 2015, 09:29:02 am »
I reckon the standard downpipes are probably the best for mid range, and probably top end to.
After-market downpipes can affect performance, and in my experience a negative way.
I don't think it matters what Silencer or Loudener you stick on the bike, because all it affects is the amount of noise you create.
My personal experience is that the critical part of the exhaust system is the downpipes and the point where they link and form one pipe.
50
« on: 15 July 2015, 10:58:11 am »
I saw a new Suzuki GT750 parked outside school in the summer of 1973.
So I got a Saturday job, sold my air rifle, bicycle and Bolton Wanderers memorabilia and bought a tired old Honda 50.
Oddly enough it was very reliable, which couldn't be said for its successor.... a CZ125..... or its successor a Ducati 160..... or its successor a BSA A7 (which was the singularly most unreliable vehicle I've ever had the displeasure of owning)...... but its successor, a Kawasaki S3 400 was a good bike.
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