Date: 19-10-18  Time: 03:07 AM

Recent Posts

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1
Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / Re: sprocket and stuff
« Last post by Millietant on Today at 02:37:04 AM »
Daft question, but it seems like all the sensible ones have been bottomed out -Is there any way the locking tab could still be getting in the way of the sprocket nut unscrewing ??
2
Introduction / Re: hello peeps
« Last post by 74eldiablo on Today at 12:29:36 AM »
not one welcome to the forum, :eek
3
General / Re: Word Association
« Last post by coffee on Today at 12:19:00 AM »
cavity
4
General / Re: Three word story
« Last post by coffee on Today at 12:17:55 AM »
willy warmers for
5
Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / Re: sprocket and stuff
« Last post by coffee on Today at 12:10:36 AM »
Got the 36mm socket today,"just pop in the garage and get the sprocket off"I thought, jammed the chain with a screwdriver through the links,got a long bar and short extention and tapped the socket it while pulling,2hours of fucking and blinding later do you think this whore of a nut would shift?not a chance, I tried everything I could think of,I had to stop and go and do a job.Tomorrow I'm going to put the rear wheel back put it in gear lock the wheel somehow and use a scaffold pole and just hope it moves,honestly,I've never known a nut so tight. :'(
6
FZS600 Fazer / Re: Std exhaust silencer weight
« Last post by His Dudeness on 18 October 2018, 11:32:53 PM »
yeah mine does it too. I think it's a Yamaha thing :lol
7
FZS600 Fazer / Re: Std exhaust silencer weight
« Last post by darrsi on 18 October 2018, 11:29:54 PM »
:agree
My Fazer FZS600 hardly makes
 any noise, or clunk going from 1st to 2nd, but, I do get a clunk when going into first from neutral, especially when going into fist with a cold lump, I find slightly easing the bike forward with my tootsies helps to alleviate this.


Chain tension is important, this is one of the reasons you need a centre stand, spin the rear wheel by hand checking the chain tension on the lower chain run directly under the black swinging arm chain guide that is on the top at the front of swinging arm, and make sure you have 1.5 inchs of movement pushing the chain up without excessive force. I understand this is the accepted measurement for a 2003 FZS600 Foxeye.
See photo of manual.
Although I have read somewhere that the chain adjustment should be made with the motorcycle on the side stand, so that some/most of the bikes weight is on the suspension.
I have always done mine on the centre as its easier to adjust it with the rear wheel off the ground.   
That clunk when you knock it down from neutral into first can also be caused by worn cush drive rubbers in the rear wheel. As the rubber wears it creates a bit of free play between the rear sprocket carrier and the wheel and you feel it as a clunk. You rocking the bike forward might be taking up the gap. You can check if there's any play by grabbing the rear sprocket and rotating it clockwise and anti clockwise.


My bike has always done it, even when i put new cush drive rubbers in the wheel.
It's just a quirk of the bike, and i do the same as Tommy, just roll the bike forward a bit when changing down and it is nowhere near as harsh or noisy.
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General / Re: Down the pub - the thread about nothing and everything
« Last post by Grahamm on 18 October 2018, 11:16:02 PM »
why can't cyclists give 1.5 meters space when passing parked cars as well?

Because, even though it's perfectly legal for you to do so, you get some idiot on your back wheel wanting you to get out of their way because you're slowing them down reaching the next traffic jam...
9
FZS600 Fazer / Re: Std exhaust silencer weight
« Last post by His Dudeness on 18 October 2018, 11:10:38 PM »
:agree
My Fazer FZS600 hardly makes
 any noise, or clunk going from 1st to 2nd, but, I do get a clunk when going into first from neutral, especially when going into fist with a cold lump, I find slightly easing the bike forward with my tootsies helps to alleviate this.


Chain tension is important, this is one of the reasons you need a centre stand, spin the rear wheel by hand checking the chain tension on the lower chain run directly under the black swinging arm chain guide that is on the top at the front of swinging arm, and make sure you have 1.5 inchs of movement pushing the chain up without excessive force. I understand this is the accepted measurement for a 2003 FZS600 Foxeye.
See photo of manual.
Although I have read somewhere that the chain adjustment should be made with the motorcycle on the side stand, so that some/most of the bikes weight is on the suspension.
I have always done mine on the centre as its easier to adjust it with the rear wheel off the ground.   
That clunk when you knock it down from neutral into first can also be caused by worn cush drive rubbers in the rear wheel. As the rubber wears it creates a bit of free play between the rear sprocket carrier and the wheel and you feel it as a clunk. You rocking the bike forward might be taking up the gap. You can check if there's any play by grabbing the rear sprocket and rotating it clockwise and anti clockwise.
10
FZS600 Fazer / Re: Std exhaust silencer weight
« Last post by His Dudeness on 18 October 2018, 11:03:24 PM »
The manual says to keep both wheels on the ground. I think the chain gets tighter when the bike is on both wheels compared to when it's on the centre stand so if you adjust the slack to the specified amount while it's on the centre stand, when you put it back down onto two wheels the chain will tighten up so it will be tighter than spec whereas if you tighten it to spec on the side stand that's where it stays. I've always adjusted it on the side stand anyway
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