Have used ‘the bike bus’ who are very good. Though cheap I wouldn’t use Shipley, they move anything and everything and will just cram things in, prob not above stacking things on a bike!

Nearly got one of the first models having good memories of zx9s but got an FZ1S instead. Should have got the kawa and only kept the fz a year. Recently had spare cash and looked at the h2 version of these but thought would rather spend that on several bikes. Not on a fazer these days but a mate is making noises about another bike after a lay-off and think he could do a lot worse than a fzs1000.

I have a feeling there were threaded holes on the inside of the arms that admitedley would need spacing out at the other end of the bracket. Not sure of your plans or if that is any help? I never wanted the rack part but wanted grab handles, with the threaded holes I was going to put a bracket to the pillion footrest just to support soft panniers.

Think it was the 1300 that had instability problems.

Not on a Fazer these days, saw too many over the weekend to remember times and places, as i don't know the roads but spent all weekend criss-crossing mid wales. We stayed in Merthyr, went past the reservoir about 08.30 saturday and back on same road 3ish. Total mileage about 450, roads went from wet to dry to mixed on the saturday but dry all sunday and not rained on at all, just started to chuck it down as we got back to merthyr on sunday. Wife had loads of work stuff so put bike in van to get there, pissed it all the way home.

I've got a few T25 Torx Allen bits but not security ones so I might try drilling a little hole in one of them so it will fit.


Looks like my Sunday is going to be another day in the garage 😁
[/quote
    You can simply use a punch or similar to snap off the central pin and use the Torx bit as is.]

Can track day anything if it's mechanically in a good condition re tyres, brakes and suspension. It all comes down to budget, if you have a spill on a £500 bike it's no big deal but some will spend £15000 . Racing is expensive but so can trackdays be. On your gen2 i would run your suspension and tyres slightly softer than road settings and be realistic as to what group best suits your pace so you are doing similar speeds to those around you. If it seems others are slow, move up a level but don't get over encouraged by your mates into overdoing it before you have done enough laps to know the right pace. I found on track there was always one corner that just didn't gel so would try to make a point of getting that right and enjoying the rest of the lap. Last track day i did was prob 5 years ago and the bike wasn't running right so might have to do one before i forget how good it is. Anyone up for a Welsh trackday? and there are a few.

Val, the torque wrench is a challenge one from Argos, has always been ok in the past, I always release the tension before putting away but I've never had it callibrated.


Red, yes the bits above and below the gap on the swing arm where the axle passes are distorted, were like this before I started fiddling.  The whole point of the fiddling was because I noticed my washer looked like a dinner plate, but nothing like it does now.


I don't think the washer I got off the chap on here was much cop though.  It was straight enough (unlike my old one) but it had deep pitting where the bolt on previous bike had pushed into it.  I turned it around so that part was agains the swing arm, I'm guessing it's thinner and weaker because of the deformation and so buckled worse than the old one.


Celtic dog, I was thinking new axle too, but I have to do everything on such a tight budget I doubt I could afford that, I tried to do it cheap and failed ha ha


I think I will take it all apart again but put the old washer on the other way round, see how that goes.  I'll only have until it gets dark tomorrow though, Saturday is fully booked up.  Don't want to miss another fazer ride out :-(


grrrrrr

  If you reverse the washer it's probably only going to flatten then dish itself with the tightness of the spindle nut. My 600 was the same so think it's normal, if you're happy with tightness of spindle, alignment and chain tension, just leave it and deal with the real issue which is the sliders/end plates. With wheel tight, nip up the first adjusting nut by one or two flats each side. I find one turn is too slack and two is too tight so i go one and a half, in other words a flat to a flat then to the next corner. Just be sure to use two spanners to lock the two nuts together and there shouldn't be any later slackness.

Only removed my carrier for new tyre fitment, on most bikes they just fall out.

Wheel would still tighten ok as spacer total is the same, don't know about chain alignment though. Sprocket carrier being tight is normal so wouldn't worry about it.

  Just a few observations, forgetting about ride quality as the subject is heavy braking. Too soft is not ideal, too hard is ok except it don't leave anything for bump absorbtion. 2 stage braking is good for both situations, i agree some weight transfer is good but think weight is naturally going to the front anyway, racers brake hard but they squeeze the brake not slam it on. If fork dive was such a good thing then non telescopic front fork bikes ( for example some bmw's ) would not have such stable/safe braking, bmw seem to be using more conventional teles on their bikes now but most likely for cost/marketing reasons rather than thinking them inferior. I would go for 15wt oil with a couple of washers in each side, the springs would have to be very soft to get anything like a 2'' spacer in. If you use 10wt you have the satisfaction of having nice fresh oil but the end result is going to be pretty much the same. I won't go into oil level as i don't want the oil level police's comments.

I take it you mean you cured a missfire but still have a stutter directly after having the carbs apart? As the air filter is the easiest to do i would do that first, making sure to clean and re-oil it properly, not over oil and use proper k&n oil. Also that the refitting is correct as the k&n on mine seemed to sit a bit high for the lid to fit snug until i gave it a firm push. If that don't help i would check the fuel pipe is not kinked anywhere and that the tap is fully on. I think the thing here with it just in 1st and 2nd is the speed of the pickup of the revs demands max fuel flow more than the higher gears and especially at those revs. Fazerider has a good point about float levels.