Date: 28-03-24  Time: 23:12 pm

Author Topic: Electrical fault  (Read 1923 times)

Unionjack30

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Electrical fault
« on: 10 September 2017, 04:50:25 pm »
Hi all,

Little bit of advice needed, maybe someone has had the same issue!

Every time I switch the ignition off I loss all power to the speedo, so my clock and trip resets.

I have also no headlights, no horn , no brake lights. But I do have indicators and the bike starts.

Any idea would help

His Dudeness

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Re: Electrical fault
« Reply #1 on: 10 September 2017, 07:13:59 pm »
Check the "signaling system fuse". It's 37 on the wiring diagram. It's a 10Amp fuse. It sends 12V to the head light switches, break light switches and the horn, you're having problem with all of them that would be the place to start. I think the clocks get constant power through fuse 3 on the diagram the "back up fuse 10 Amp" so that fuse might be the problem with the trip.

Your bike is a 2002 foxeye right? The wiring diagram I'm looking at is in this download http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php?action=downloads;sa=view;down=5
« Last Edit: 10 September 2017, 07:18:28 pm by His Dudeness »

Unionjack30

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Re: Electrical fault
« Reply #2 on: 10 September 2017, 10:02:27 pm »
Cheers bud, yea o2 fox eye. The horn is now working. Headlights come on earlier but then back off again, I'm thinking relay?

His Dudeness

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Re: Electrical fault
« Reply #3 on: 10 September 2017, 10:57:57 pm »
Are your break lights working now?
« Last Edit: 10 September 2017, 10:58:53 pm by His Dudeness »

Unionjack30

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Re: Electrical fault
« Reply #4 on: 11 September 2017, 07:24:27 am »
No, still no brake, tail or headlights

tommyardin

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Re: Electrical fault
« Reply #5 on: 11 September 2017, 08:03:31 am »
My first port of call with electrical problems that effect the lights and instrumentation is the large multi connector under the left hand-side fairing infill panel.
I had exactly what you are describing a couple of years ago lights would come on and flick off and instruments/clocks would do their own thing if they decided to work at all, indicators behaved themselves but all the other lighting seemed to have a mind of its own. Funny thing was just like yours the engine ran fine and never missed a beat.
If you ride at night get it sorted because at some point the lights are going to go out on you and it is likely to hurt.
Clutch lever/ left hand-side front fairing infill panel, 3 screws and the it is right in front of you, easy to get at. What happens is water gets into the connector and the connections inside the block corrode causing intermittent connection but will eventually cause a permanent breakdown electrically. All the wires in the connector block are colour coded so it is easy to do. To check this out switch the ignition on so clocks are active switch the lights on and wiggle the large connector block, Oh! it is a white plastic connector with perhaps say 8 wires in and out maybe more.
I just cut (after disconnecting the battery) the offending wires tight either side of the connector, stripped about
15 mm of insulation of wire each end slipped a bit of heat shrink fit over one end of each pair hand soldered them together. Tip: keep the heat shrink at least 3 inches away from the new connection while you solder it or the shrink will do just that before it is in place.
As I said earlier I did mine at least 2 years ag and have had no trouble since. Good luck let us know the outcome. The wiggle test will instantly tell you if that is the problem.
« Last Edit: 11 September 2017, 08:07:12 am by tommyardin »

Unionjack30

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Re: Electrical fault
« Reply #6 on: 11 September 2017, 11:22:27 am »
Nice one cheers. I'll check this out tonight

tommyardin

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Re: Electrical fault
« Reply #7 on: 11 September 2017, 12:04:33 pm »

Hi Union I have just read your post again,


With the ignition switch in the OFF position the headlights, sidelights will not work, nor the horn or indicators, brake lights and the clock displays will go out, that is the way it is designed to work, if the bike is left for a while the battery will not go flat should the light switch be left on.


One thing that does surprise me is that the Hazard lights do not work with the ignition switched off (These Japanese designers are not as smart as they think)


IE: Ignition OFF ALL OFF.


There is a position on the ignition switch passed the steering lock position that will put on side lights with the ignition turned off, this is for night time parking in a road, but as said earlier all other lights and instrumentation is designed to go off with the ignition off.


I have to admit though as to never managing to get the key to turn to the parking light position on the ignition switch.


But my guess is that connector block is your problem, do remember to disconnect the battery before you start cutting wires. 
« Last Edit: 11 September 2017, 12:50:17 pm by tommyardin »

His Dudeness

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Re: Electrical fault
« Reply #8 on: 11 September 2017, 08:06:50 pm »
Tommy might have said it already but there could be corrosion in the right side handlebar switch gear.

Unionjack30

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Re: Electrical fault
« Reply #9 on: 11 September 2017, 10:32:09 pm »
Doesn't seem to be any issues at the connected block, only 1 cable has power there, all the others in and out have nothing.

With the ignition on I have no headlights, tailights or brake light.

But every now and then the headlights and tailights all randomly work, untill I press the brake and I hear a click and they all go out.

His Dudeness

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Re: Electrical fault
« Reply #10 on: 11 September 2017, 11:34:52 pm »
The head lights, front and back break light and the horn all get their power from the same wire it's a brown/blue and it goes from the ignition to one side of the signaling fuse. Then the other side of the signalling fuse is brown and it goes from the signaling fuse into the right handlebar switch. Then they all take power from that brown wire but it looks like the head light and brake light share a connection that the horn doesn't so that connection could be your problem since your horn is working. It looks like the connection is inside the right handlebar switch. You'd be looking for corrosion or a burnt or damaged connection. If it'd help I could fill in the power and grounds on the circuit you're looking and try and scan it and put it up.

Unionjack30

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Re: Electrical fault
« Reply #11 on: 12 September 2017, 09:03:39 am »
If you don't mind that would be helpful. I will take the switch apart and have a look today

His Dudeness

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Re: Electrical fault
« Reply #12 on: 12 September 2017, 12:30:11 pm »
There's the circuit. Looking at it your problem could also be in the left handlebar switch gear because the head light and horn switches are on that side. The scan lost some of it's resolution from uploading it. If you can't see it clearly send me your email and I'll send you the original scan when I get home. The reds are 12V and the blues are ground. You have to press click on raw image to see it properly.

http://oi64.tinypic.com/35dco3o.jpg
« Last Edit: 12 September 2017, 12:39:29 pm by His Dudeness »

Unionjack30

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Re: Electrical fault
« Reply #13 on: 12 September 2017, 06:19:08 pm »
Thank you mate. It's all magically started working now accept the flash. Possibly a bad earth? It will sometimes all go out, but then starting the engine and bringing the Revs up will make it work.

His Dudeness

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Re: Electrical fault
« Reply #14 on: 12 September 2017, 08:14:10 pm »
This is a bloody nightmare problem :lol If the revs are having an affect you should probably check what voltage you're getting at the battery when the bike is idling and when you raise the revs. The voltage should increase above battery voltage when you rev it with the lights on and off. I still think you have a poor connection on a wire that's common to to your head lights, break lights and horn. Have a look at the wiring diagram and you'll see the common wires. It could be a bad power or earth that they share.

Unionjack30

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Re: Electrical fault
« Reply #15 on: 12 September 2017, 08:43:22 pm »
It's a complete pain lol I'll test battery first :) thanks for your help!