Author Topic: Wiring direct to battery? (Read 5934 times)

Bretty · « **on:** 03 October 2016, 12:12:11 pm »

When adding electrical bits to the bike. I understand that things with a particularly high current draw often need to be wired directly to the battery, sometimes via a relay (heated grips, a loud horn for example).

Is there somewhere else I can wire this in rather than having a big stack of connectors screwed into the battery terminals?

My bike already has spotlights and a cigarette lighter connection attached and now I'm considering fitting a loud horn. It's not going to look good.

Electrics are not my thing...

darrsi · « **Reply #1 on:** 03 October 2016, 03:53:19 pm »

I never wire anything directly to the battery, I prefer key off, everything off.

BBROWN1664 · « **Reply #2 on:** 03 October 2016, 04:42:07 pm »

Heated grips don't draw a high current. I connect mine to the rear brake light switch. Doing this I know I can access it easily to connect it, the fuse on that circuit is up to the job and it is definitely off when I turn the key off.

bikemad · « **Reply #3 on:** 03 October 2016, 05:25:48 pm »

Why not wire direct but have a switch under the seat 👍🏻

unfazed · « **Reply #4 on:** 03 October 2016, 06:10:24 pm »

Why not use something like this, red wire is rated 65 amps

Jules-C · « **Reply #5 on:** 03 October 2016, 06:19:41 pm »

One relay that is connected directly tobattery side of starter relay and all the extra ancillaries connected to it. Relay control wire connected to rear brake switch feed that way no extra current through bike wiring and everything switches off with the ignition and no spare wires to connect to battery

darrsi · « **Reply #6 on:** 03 October 2016, 06:59:17 pm »

Quote from: bikemad on 03 October 2016, 05:25:48 pm

Why not wire direct but have a switch under the seat 👍🏻

Because you will forget to switch it off.
Even forgetting once will be one time too many.

BBROWN1664 · « **Reply #7 on:** 04 October 2016, 08:29:35 am »

OR forget to switch it on and then have to stop, get off, switch off, lift the seat yada yada yada when you have cold pinkies

joebloggs · « **Reply #8 on:** 04 October 2016, 08:35:45 am »

Run a relay from live side of starter relay but switch it using a live from say the sidestand circuit, that way when the bike is off your relay will be open.
Simples

bikemad · « **Reply #9 on:** 04 October 2016, 08:46:50 am »

Prob the best way is to run an aux fuse box I had a centech AP 1 on my BMW GS ran extra lights,sat nav,USB socket,plus spare space ready for something else very easy to wire in

Buzz · « **Reply #10 on:** 04 October 2016, 01:24:32 pm »

I just bought a couple of fuse taps from Ebay for my 12V USB and Heated grips and stuck them in 2 of the ignition fuses - I think the headlights and sidelights. Took about 2 mins to install.

Frosties · « **Reply #11 on:** 04 October 2016, 08:12:02 pm »

Quote from: Buzz on 04 October 2016, 01:24:32 pm

I just bought a couple of fuse taps from Ebay for my 12V USB and Heated grips and stuck them in 2 of the ignition fuses - I think the headlights and sidelights. Took about 2 mins to install.

+1. Easy and tidy. Link below

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/170709632237?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Bretty · « **Reply #12 on:** 04 October 2016, 11:24:06 pm »

I think I previously mentioned that I'm rubbish with electrics...

So if you have 2 wires coming from whatever it is you want to install (like heated grips for example). The fuse tap gives you one connector... and where do you attach the second wire?

Does wiring direct to the battery put less strain on the regulator/rectifier?
Or I that not relevant?

When I got my bike the reg/rec was already knackered. I replaced it and removed the spotlights the previous owner had fitted, as a result I'm always a bit nervous adding new bits.

tommyardin · « **Reply #13 on:** 05 October 2016, 12:08:31 am »

Quote from: darrsi on 03 October 2016, 03:53:19 pm

I never wire anything directly to the battery, I prefer key off, everything off.

Good call

tommyardin · « **Reply #14 on:** 05 October 2016, 12:29:11 am »

Quote from: Frosties on 04 October 2016, 08:12:02 pm

Quote from: Buzz on 04 October 2016, 01:24:32 pm
I just bought a couple of fuse taps from Ebay for my 12V USB and Heated grips and stuck them in 2 of the ignition fuses - I think the headlights and sidelights. Took about 2 mins to install.

+1. Easy and tidy. Link below

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/170709632237?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Nice one Tiger,
Just been and ordered 2 packs of 2 Fuse Taps on FleaBay (followed your link) I don't especially have any use right now but can see a lot of potential in them bad boys.
always room in the tool box for them.

I wired my Cree projector spots into the headlight wiring circuit after the headlight switch as I always have them on when riding even in day time, but when i get the taps through I will alter that cos it gives protection to each circuit separately, if one fuse then blows at night I will still have either the projectors on or the headlights, Ahh! rethinking that it would mean another switch to switch on and rewire as right now the spots come on when I switch the headlights on.
Who's stupid idea was it to buy fuse taps? Doh

Frosties · « **Reply #15 on:** 05 October 2016, 06:46:38 pm »

Quote from: Bretty on 04 October 2016, 11:24:06 pm

I think I previously mentioned that I'm rubbish with electrics...

So if you have 2 wires coming from whatever it is you want to install (like heated grips for example). The fuse tap gives you one connector... and where do you attach the second wire?

Does wiring direct to the battery put less strain on the regulator/rectifier?
Or I that not relevant?

When I got my bike the reg/rec was already knackered. I replaced it and removed the spotlights the previous owner had fitted, as a result I'm always a bit nervous adding new bits.

Hiya Bretty, the idea of the fuse tap is you pick a fuse which is live when the ignition is on, say the headlights. Remove the fuse and replace with the fuse tap - the fuse you removed now goes back into the bottom fuse holder in the picture of the Ebay link.

What you now have is a 2nd available fused circuit (red lead with blue crimp) which you can use to feed heated grips and will also turn off when the ignition is off.

If unsure then shout and will try to word it differently or maybe someone can post a pic of a tap they have fitted.

Bretty · « **Reply #16 on:** 06 October 2016, 10:53:34 am »

The thing I don't get... A battery has 2 terminals to connect to.
A fuse tap gives you one terminal, so where do you wire the other end of whatever it is you're trying to install?

mtread · « **Reply #17 on:** 06 October 2016, 11:32:05 am »

A convenient Earth. or of course back to the negative terminal. But then you're back to square 1

joebloggs · « **Reply #18 on:** 06 October 2016, 12:37:19 pm »

Quote from: Bretty on 06 October 2016, 10:53:34 am

The thing I don't get... A battery has 2 terminals to connect to.
A fuse tap gives you one terminal, so where do you wore the other end of whatever it is you're trying to install?

Take the live to what ever you are running then earth to the chassis using a ring terminal. Anything near the headstock the rectifier bracket would be easy enough to reach without wires hanging all over the place or the bracket for coils/fuel pump, just scrape off some paint to make sure you have a good earth

tommyardin · « **Reply #19 on:** 06 October 2016, 12:41:11 pm »

Ground the neural side of the equipment down to any convenient point on the Frame (The whole of the Bikes metal structure is the Neutral side of the circuit) or handlebars, as long as they are not rubber mounted for vibration absorption.
Takes a bit of getting your head around if you are unfamiliar with electrics (My Dad was a Sparky for British Aerospace) I worked with him sometimes on private jobs that he did, I was his bitch

)

People talk about the 'Earth' wire on their bikes but in fact it is actually the neutral/negative (-)

Domestic wiring has three conductors or wires, Live/Neutral and Earth. Auto wiring systems have only two conductors or wires as there is no need for an 'Earth' A 12volt auto circuit offers no risk to life.
Plus an Earth wire going to ground sort of limits how far you can travel, plus you would have to go back home the same way to wind up your Earth wire.

That's not to say that 12 volts can not give you a poke, try grabbing hold of a cattle electric fence, but then we are talking about an energizer being inline converting 12 volts to 10,000 volts or more.
Plus the spark plug circuit can give you a poke and that is generated from a 12 volt system producing 12,000 - 45,000 volts at the plug tip.

The biggest use of power on your Fazer is probably main-beam with the associated other lights that accompany them, but then you only talking about 12 amps @12 -14.8 Volts.

Now shut the Foc up Ardin and post the pictures that you originally came on here to post.

Fused taps arrived today from FleaBay.
Woo Woo check out them Bad Boys

joebloggs · « **Reply #20 on:** 06 October 2016, 12:55:14 pm »

OK so earth is neutral, but how many times have you heard some one say I'm going to neutral the spark plugs etc to check for a spark?

Bretty · « **Reply #21 on:** 06 October 2016, 02:04:36 pm »

Cheers guys! Super explanation! Thank you!

Ironically I probably work for one of the largest electrical companies in the world.

as a salesman

Typical huh! And this is probably embarrassingly basic.

Cheers!

tommyardin · « **Reply #22 on:** 06 October 2016, 02:14:32 pm »

Quote from: joebloggs on 06 October 2016, 12:55:14 pm

OK so earth is neutral, but how many times have you heard some one say I'm going to neutral the spark plugs etc to check for a spark?

He He! quite right. I have never ever ever heard anyone say that.

The the truth be told the only time your bike has any connection with Earth, or, Earth connection is when it is on the center or side stand, but even then it would be doubtful if it would act as a conductor because it takes very little resistance to stop 12 volts, unless of course you happen to be unfortunate enough to get hit by lightening, in that case I think the use of correct terminology does not come into it.
But as you said I will still continue to 'EARTH' out my plugs to check for a spark.

tommyardin · « **Reply #23 on:** 06 October 2016, 02:16:45 pm »

Oh! the other time you bike has a good connection with earth is when you throw it up the road, don't test this out though.

Jules-C · « **Reply #24 on:** 06 October 2016, 06:05:39 pm »

Quote from: tommyardin on 06 October 2016, 12:41:11 pm

Ground the neural side of the equipment down to any convenient point on the Frame (The whole of the Bikes metal structure is the Neutral side of the circuit) or handlebars, as long as they are not rubber mounted for vibration absorption.

I wouldn't recommend handlebars since you've got to get a connection to the frame through the head bearings and there should be grease in there keeping the metal parts from touching. Probably work for most things but better going back to frame