This is for the same customer as the RD400, Blade and Busa (still for sale) again this was her late husbands.  It was fully serviced by a local company (Chandlers) not long before he died, it was never used post the service and has been sitting in her garage ever since.  She was planning on keeping it to clean her patio and garden furniture etc but since pulling it out of her garage last week, has decided it's just too big for her to handle and to sell it.

These are very good quality washers, cold or heated (diesel or heating oil), they are no longer in production but parts, should you need them, are readily available.  I'm told that the replacement for the 30HA series isn't a patch on these and they sell for 4k ish upwards.   The 30HA Master 1 is a industrial/pro level washer, this is the ST version with heavy duty coiled hose, this is the 2100 psi version. 

The manuals can be found here https://www.nilfisk.com/global/products/pressure-washers/mobile-pressure-washers/mobile-hot-water-pressure-washers/compact/alto-30ha-master-1-230150-12a-eu/p_7292005/

She's looking for £480 ovno, it's located in the Melton Mowbray area, this is a serious bit of kit, it's a steal!   


r
     

I've finally reached the difficult decision to let my current XJR go. I need the space to work, with 3 other bikes plus this XJR there's just not enough room, somethings got to go and it's the XJR it's just not getting used. 

I bought this bike in May 15 with 8680 on the clock it has a dealer service history until that point and from me until date. It was a bit of mess, nothing serious just covered in bling, wheel rim tape, cheap anodised nuts/bolts everywhere, gen 1 type LED indicators etc, etc, I'm sure you get the picture. It was in need of some serious TLC. I stripped the bike down to nothing other then the engine in the frame, everything was cleaned/checked/replaced, all the crap removed and fitted with OE or better, full list of work: -

Front and rear disc bolts replaced with SS.
Header studs and nuts replaced.
Calipers rebuilt.
36Y intake rubbers fitted.
4* advance plate fitted.
Air box mod.
Front forks stripped checked, uprated Hagon springs fitted, new oil.
Head races checked regreased.
Swing arm bushes/bearings checked regreased.
Shocks checked by Harris and uprated with (22% heavier) Ohlins springs.
Std indicators refitted.
Exhaust end plates removed and Klaus Goerz SSteel end plates fitted.
Delkevic SSteel collector box fitted, OE was shot.
Dual Fiamm type horns fitted.
Scott oiler fitted you can't see it unless you get your magnifier out! It's also set correctly.
Puig fly screen.
Oil cooler cover.
Polished chain guard.

The bike is fitted with a Datatool 3, it's been flawless in operation, still is. I know these like Meta get a bad rep, but in my experience (being in the trade and fitted both) I've never had a bad one, it's all about how they are fitted and keeping the battery's charged.

All OE parts, except brake lines, collector and chain guard are available and will be given to the new owner.

Current mileage 13510, mileage breakdown since I've owned it is as follows: -
May 15 - 16, 9274 = 594
May 16 - 17, 10029 = 755
May 17 - 18, 10695 = 666
May 18 - 19, 11016 = 321
May 19 - Sept 20 (covid extension) , 11552 = 536
Sept 20 - Aug 21, 12268 = 716
Aug 21 - Aug 23 (Off the road Nov 21 - Aug 23), 13488 = 1220
Aug 23 - to date 13510 = 22 last year it just went for it's MOT!

The bike has not been ridden this year as yet, bike started up last week, first prod after not being started since it's MOT and allowed to warm up.

As you can see it's not high usage, sunny day rides only, since I've owned it. It was given a full 12k service in May 22, 2 shims were replaced, front brake lines changed for Goodridge stealth lines, new SBS pads fitted, rear brake fluid changed, new Yuasa battery, fuel tap rebuilt (OE parts) including the small Oring (not OE) in the rear of the tap and new tyres (Mich Road 3) fitted at the same time. The bike is in very good condition, very clean, it's not perfect (see pictures) odd bits of rust beginning to appear on the odd fastener/bolt/screw etc, the bike is 21 years old. There is less of the normal wear and tear blemishes you'd expect for a 21 yr old bike, if you want a bike to complete nut and bolt restoration, this is it.

The bike runs and handles batter than standard, the motor is really strong again as you'd expect from a low mileage motor and it really is all about the XJR motor, if not not ridden one, you need too before you die.  All paperwork is present as is the spare key. This is a turn the key and ride off, just needs tax or use it to make it perfect, the bike is currently SORN.

It's worth in the region of £4200 ish, I'm looking for £4000 ovno, no tyre kickers please. So as not to offend if you visit and you want a test ride you need to cross my hand with 4.2K first. I'd prefer the bike went to a member before I have to ebay or other bike press. Bikes located in the Melton Mowbray area, PM me if you're interested




























Note the handle bar clock is [size=150]not[/size][/u] part of the sale







Blemishes

There isn't one, red caps are aftermarket OE they were black.

If you want red just look for the NGK equivalent in red.

After what 5ish years, my X10 is up for sale, I'm just not using it and it's a waste, full pictures in the links below. 

The last 4 years it's hardly been used, it was bought as a commuter back in mid 2017.  After 4 months my work location changed and it really wasn't needed, never used through the winter as intended. I just couldn't bring myself to sell just in case and I loved the odd dry summer rides I did on it.  I've done in that time 3670miles, the majority of that in the first year, the average in the last few years is between 500 - 6miles, last year is the 6 to it's MOT and back! It's not been used this year as yet.  The bike was stripped in 2017, all the well known issues were dealt with see my post here with full pictures https://x9ownersclub.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=26121.msg283863#msg283863 serviced, Denali horn and HID conversion fitted.  The latter is easily disconnected for MOTs if you're worried or your tester doesn't like them, they will be removed if a new owner doesn't want them.  Rear drive oil level bolt has been replaced see here with pictures https://x9ownersclub.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=26888.0

The bike is due a new belt/guides/weights at it's next service (waiting for the service light) all are ready and waiting and will be thrown in.  The bike is stored in a garage, hooked up the a Opimate, it's totally reliable bike, it never fails to start first prod even after many months of non use in the garage.   

The bike was registered 2 July 2012, has covered to date 11136 miles, which is below average for the year, MOT 06 Sept 24, currently SORN, this is a push the button and ride, nothing other than routine serving will need doing.  ULEZ compliant, I've had max 95 mpg with averages of 67mpg motorway/city and 88 mpg long rides on mixture of A and B roads, it's a perfect long haul and commuter in one.  Not many bikes you can don all your riding kit, ride to the coast, remove the riding kit including boots, store it under the seat, walk around in shorts/tee shirt all day, return to the bike get donned up and ride home.  From my research at the time of buying, it's the best maxi scoot available, packed with features, ABS, Traction control, factory fitted immobiliser, illuminated switch gear, too full face helmets will fit under the seat.  The seat is an armchair I've done 5 hours in one go on it.  I was always very anti Maxi scooter until a good friend got one for commuting, suggested I tried it, kicking and screaming I did, couldn't believe how good it was and bought one.  It will see off just about anything up to 40mph off the lights and there's nothing road wise it can't do, extremely stable in cross winds handles very well, not much will get away from you on the twisty's.

I'm now starting to do more adventure/off road stuff, the bike isn't getting or will be used in the foreseeable and it's taking up space.         

The bike is in very good condition, both keys, all paperwork and fully serviced, located in the Melton Mowbray area, looking for £2k ovno.

[edit] attached imagages from the X9owners link - bkd
     

Done.


Although the survey wouldn't allow me to up load the report even in zip file, too big apparently.  Good way of preventing supporting evidence being provided, that.   

It would appear to be the wiring that's the issue, based on your findings.  Disconnect the plug blocks, look for corrosion, it's normally green ish.  Also examine the female connectors, look for an extra wide space where the male part goes in.  If there's one use a small screwdriver to close the gap slightly.  On the male side connector block make sure all the spade end fittings are level/square in the block.  It's possible one or more has got bent and instead of mating correctly in the female connector/s, it's going over/under which will give you a bad connection

It's also possible either a female or male connector is damage/broken, again this will give you a bad connection.

If it's as simple as moving the block or wires going into the block, it's going to be something as mentioned above. 

Disassembled the engine, removed the gears. TBH the gear dogs didn't seem too terrible, but if it jumps out of gear what can I do...I was lucky to find a low mileage gearbox from a '94 FZR600R, and combined the best gears into a working unit. The 2nd gear pinion is a b**** to remove and install... Now I wait for some Loctite sealant, then I'll reassemble the engine.Just for my own entertainement, added the costs of necessary parts together, if everything was new. Wow. Good thing that almost everything's available new, but a complete transmission overhaul, some crankshaft bearings, a complete gasket set adds up to the value of my bike, even if every work is done by me.

Jumping out of gear isn't always the gear box it can be a clutch issue.  The gear selectors don't wear as such (accept in the extreme) they bend and it doesn't take much, to stop the gear fully engaging and getting jumping out of gear.  Also be aware 2nd and 6th gear ratios are different on the FZR600, which will mess up how it accelerates, so make sure you use the FZS600s pinons and gears.     

My switch (2002 fzs600) has the 7 wires (5+2) but all I see are ones for up to 2001, or ones with every year listed, but with 6 wires (4+2)

I've seen a couple posts on here about Foxeye/Boxeye (???) and a mention that the 2001/02 fzs1000 ignition switch is the same.

The 01/ 02 1000 does indeed have a 5 + 2 configuration, whether they're are the same, I don't know they have different Yam part No's.
but why bother 02 600 unit is available here
 
https://www.cmsnl.com/yamaha-fzs600-2002-5rt1-england-1a5rt-300e1_model42566/main-switch-steering-lock_5rt8250100/

 

FZS1000s don't have ECUs, they have an igniter unit/box in the tail hump.  As far as I'm aware there's no connection between the cooling fan cutting in/out and the igniter box, the bikes system isn't closed loop, it has a now old fashioned CDI type system, I won't go into to details. 

From the sounds of what your describing, you've got water ingress either in the ignitor box, starter relay, staring circuit cut off relay. it's also possible there's an issue with the rectifier/regulator.  Remove all the plugs to all of them, check for corrosion, clean and try if that doesn't work it's highly likely there's water in the ignitor box.  This will slowly heat up causing a vapour that will short out the unit and stop the bike, it condenses on cooling down the bike restarts, this will happen with alarming time accuracy 20/30mins or so.

It happens to proper ECU's, they have to be opened dried or replaced. 


Check all the connections and test all the components first.  If they're all ok, swap the ignitor box, you can try and borrow one from a known running bike first, to replace they're approx £80 second hand.       

Looks like a location dowel from the cover.  It should be in the front lower bolt hole. 

It's worth a check.  But my money is on the switch or wiring as mentioned. It's also very possible there's corrosion in one or all the connecters that power/join that side of the circuit. 

The kit/s are available from Yamaha these are with and without pistons

1. A piston and seals (one side) is 51L-W0057-00 £71.71 last time I bought and fitted one, you'll need 2 kits if you want to replace both sides.

2. Seal kit this contains seals for both sides i.e. 2 main and 2 dust seals 51L-W0047-11 £38.33 last time I bought a kit.

You can get cheaper and almost same quality: - 

Yambits
Piston and seal kit £19.99 https://yambits.co.uk/fzs600-fazer-brake-caliper-piston-kit-rear-p-27154.html

Seal kit £5.99 you need 2 of them https://yambits.co.uk/fzs600-fazer-brake-caliper-piston-seal-kit-rear-p-18070.html

If you or the stealer are going to do the job properly, the caliper should be be split.  In which case I would recommend you also replace the caliper body seal Yamaha don't supply this.  They either intend the body isn't split (possible but harder and needs specialist tools to do the job, to guarantee not damaging the pistons) or reused, Which is possible but often the seal has become hardened and won't reseal properly if reused. 

In which case you need this from Yambits £2.99 https://yambits.co.uk/fzs600-fazer-brake-caliper-body-fluid-seal-rear-p-92407.html of the same part can be obtained from Suzuki's GS500 rear caliper.   

These kits from Yambits are good quality although not as good as OE, it's personal choice and pocket depth.

There is others like Wemto but I personally don't use them, I found their quality to be crap and not much better or the same as crap cheap fleebay stuff.

Other parts may also be required if they can't be cleaned or are damaged

Pad pins you may need 2

Yamaha
4FL-25924-00 £10.74 each

Yambits
https://yambits.co.uk/fzs600-fazer-brake-caliper-pad-pin-kit-rear-p-55618.html £6.99

Bleed screws you may need 2

Yamaha
15BW004800 £13.45 each this includes the dust cap

Yambits
https://yambits.co.uk/fzs600-fazer-brake-caliper-bleed-nipple-rear-p-5935.html £2.99

https://yambits.co.uk/fzs600-fazer-bleed-screw-nipple-cover-p-29313.html £1.25

It's also possible the Pad support shim is corroded/broken

This is only available from Yamaha 51L-25919-00 £12.64

All that said the actual condition of the caliper bodies, pistons etc will determine what you actually need.  Pistons can be cleaned and reused for example, the same may apply to bleed nipples, pad pins, dust cap and pad support.     

i agree, ive got the elbows removed now but cant find anything showing the correct size o rings so just going to take to a shop that sell viton o rings to try and match some new ones up if they have the size

Just use the OE Orings: waterpump https://www.fowlersparts.co.uk/parts/4162098/fzs600-fazer-5dm4-1999-070-b/water-pump  part 24 No 9321015566 £1.76 each, ignore it's 1999 drawing they are all the same.