Date: 29-03-24  Time: 12:11 pm

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Messages - His Dudeness

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26
You did well to figure out that problem! Have you got any pics of the inside of the cut out relay? Would be interesting to see what it looks like.

27
You could try putting it on the center stand and then apply the rear brake with your foot and with the brake applied rotate the wheel back and forward and check if anything is moving or making noise with the brake applied. Could be the pads moving in the caliper or loose caliper/tie bar as gerkin said. If it's not the coming from the rear brake it could be the wheel bearings, the swing arm bearing or suspension bearings. Think that's about all it could be if it's coming from the rear

28
FZS600 Fazer / Re: Carb problems or is it something more?? Fazer 600
« on: 16 January 2020, 07:54:24 pm »
If the revs are staying high since you took out the carbs I'd be thinking the carbs might not be seated fully and there might be a vacuum leak. You could spray some wd40 around the intake area and listen for a change in revs. I'd also check that the throttle cable is routed correctly, that it's not adjusted too tight and that it snaps back properly when you release the grip. Also check that the choke plungers are all returning properly.

I'd agree with bazza the ht caps are a possible problem. They're a common failure and can cause a misfire. You could try spraying some water around the caps while the bike is running and listen if the engine stumbles. You can also run the bike in the dark and look for arcing. Another trick is put water on the exhaust headers and see if one header dries slower than the rest, that can show a cylinder that's not running properly. The ngks caps are very cheap so worth replacing anyway.

If the bike has been running badly for a good while I'd take out the spark plugs and inspect them, clean them off and see if that helps. If they're very bad I'd replace them. I haven't had TPS problems so I'm not sure what symptoms from that are but I know darrsi has had trouble with his so it's worth checking if he says so. Another possibility, Red98 had serious problems trying to solve a stutter, he rebuilt half the bike trying to find fix it and it turned out to be a bad reg/rec so that could be worth checking.
I'd start by ruling out those problems one at a time because they're the easiest. If you're confident all those things are good then look at the carbs. As a quick test on the carbs you could try leaving the choke on a bit and ride the bike. If the symptoms improve then it would point to the problem being a lack of fuel from the carbs.










 :agree        well said DUDE, some great advice there    :thumbup
I put my guessing hat on and that's what I pulled out :lol Could be totally wrong but that adds to the excitement of diy mechanics (bodging)  :lol

29
FZS600 Fazer / Ignition switch circuit on bikes
« on: 16 January 2020, 07:45:38 pm »
If you look on the wiring diagram for the Fazer and for most bikes from what I can see the main power wire runs from the battery, through the main fuse then to the ignition switch, then from the ignition switch to the fuse box and from the fuse box it runs to all the other circuits through the various fuses. That means the ignition switch and the connectors and wiring to it have to take the full switched current for the whole bike. If you have a fault on that circuit like the common burnt connector going to the ignition caused by a poor connection in the connector or high resistance in the ignition switch from old age and wear and tear, the voltage to everything drops including the ignition coils so you would have weaker spark. So the question is why do they design it like that where the ignition switches all the current? Would it not make more sense if the ignition switched a relay and the relay powered the fuse box? That way the ignition switch only passes a tiny current or is there a reason why they use the ignition switch to switch the current and they don't use a relay?

30
FZS600 Fazer / Re: Bridgestone BT016 VS BT023
« on: 16 January 2020, 07:25:03 pm »
I'd go for the newer PR tyres. It's hard to move away from tyres that you trust especially with the cost of buying and fitting them. And you don't want to be stuck with tyres that you don't like for thousands of miles. But they seem to be constantly improving the compounds so it's worth the risk to me. And the PR tyres seem to get great reviews

31
FZS600 Fazer / Re: Sale price
« on: 16 January 2020, 07:15:17 pm »
Looks like a solid bike but the fairing will put a lot of people off. If you could get a used fairing for around £100 I think it would be worth doing. I think it would add more than £100 to the asking price and it would be more likely to sell. And give it a clean of course!

32
FZS600 Fazer / Re: Carb problems or is it something more?? Fazer 600
« on: 16 January 2020, 06:53:01 pm »
If the revs are staying high since you took out the carbs I'd be thinking the carbs might not be seated fully and there might be a vacuum leak. You could spray some wd40 around the intake area and listen for a change in revs. I'd also check that the throttle cable is routed correctly, that it's not adjusted too tight and that it snaps back properly when you release the grip. Also check that the choke plungers are all returning properly.

I'd agree with bazza the ht caps are a possible problem. They're a common failure and can cause a misfire. You could try spraying some water around the caps while the bike is running and listen if the engine stumbles. You can also run the bike in the dark and look for arcing. Another trick is put water on the exhaust headers and see if one header dries slower than the rest, that can show a cylinder that's not running properly. The ngks caps are very cheap so worth replacing anyway.

If the bike has been running badly for a good while I'd take out the spark plugs and inspect them, clean them off and see if that helps. If they're very bad I'd replace them. I haven't had TPS problems so I'm not sure what symptoms from that are but I know darrsi has had trouble with his so it's worth checking if he says so. Another possibility, Red98 had serious problems trying to solve a stutter, he rebuilt half the bike trying to find fix it and it turned out to be a bad reg/rec so that could be worth checking.
I'd start by ruling out those problems one at a time because they're the easiest. If you're confident all those things are good then look at the carbs. As a quick test on the carbs you could try leaving the choke on a bit and ride the bike. If the symptoms improve then it would point to the problem being a lack of fuel from the carbs.

33
Your Suggestions and How you can help / Re: A debate section
« on: 28 December 2019, 03:07:26 pm »
I think we just have to accept that this is no longer a site about motorbikes. The bikers have put their gear on and hit the road and the people that are left are more interested in talking about other things not bikes. Has everyone gone to the facebook page or have bikers just stopped talking online?

34
Your Suggestions and How you can help / Re: A debate section
« on: 20 December 2019, 08:04:36 pm »
Can we move all political threads out of general and into the naughty corner? That way the political masterminds can still have at it and the rest of us don't have to see it? Please.

35
Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / Re: Have I f***ed it?
« on: 15 December 2019, 11:14:40 pm »
I'm just guessing using a bit of basic circuit theory but hopefully it's correct info and he sorts his bike. Another possible cause would be high resistance in the fan itself. In that case you would be getting the full 12V at the fan connector when the fan is spinning but it would be turning slower than usual. To check that you would unplug the fan and put your meter to resistance. There should be a resistance spec for the fan in the manual.

36
Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / Re: Have I f***ed it?
« on: 15 December 2019, 03:19:34 pm »
I think you have high resistance in the fan circuit and that's causing low voltage and low current at the fan. When you rev the engine it raises the voltage and current enough to start the fan turning but the voltage and current are still lower than they should be because of the high resistance so the fan is spinning slower than it should. I'd guess there's corrosion in a connector or wire.

To confirm it you could measure the voltage at the fan when the fan is spinning. The fan has to be spinning for the voltage test to be accurate because there has to be current flowing through the circuit. You should be seeing close to battery voltage on the fan connector when the fan is spinning but I think you'll see lower voltage because of high resistance. Basically in a good circuit all of the voltage should be dropped across the load which in this case is the fan but because there is added resistance in the circuit some of the voltage is dropped across the added resistance and what's left is dropped across the fan. If you find low voltage on the fan connector you can determine if the resistance is on the 12V wire or the ground wire by leaving one probe in the positive wire of the fan and touch the other probe to the positive of the battery. On a good circuit you should see close to 0V, if there's added resistance on the positive side of the circuit you will see some voltage on the meter so you know then that the problem is on the positive side. You can then do the same test on the ground side of the fan. One probe in the ground wire of the fan, touch the other probe to negative battery terminal. On a good circuit you should see close to 0V. If you see voltage, there's resistance on the ground side of the circuit. Again the fan has to be spinning for it to be a valid test.

37
General / Re: weird
« on: 11 December 2019, 12:31:23 am »
On that main page click where it says Bikes, Hints n Tips

If you're not sure
click that http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php?action=forum
below the "Message for Users" section you should see "Bikes, Hints n Tips" click on that to open the area you're missing.

38
General / Re: weird
« on: 11 December 2019, 12:18:57 am »
can you see the workshop section and for sale?

39
Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / Re: Have I f***ed it?
« on: 07 December 2019, 07:35:03 pm »
did you ground the other pin at the same time?

40
Fazer8 / FZ8 / Re: Solenoid
« on: 07 December 2019, 11:34:00 am »
Yeah it's a spare fuse. It's not connected to anything. If your bike is starting and all the electrics work there's nothing wrong with the relay in the bike

41
Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / Re: Have I f***ed it?
« on: 07 December 2019, 10:59:09 am »
The fan is probably ok. It's more likely that there is a leak somewhere in the cooling system so the cooling system is losing pressure and that caused the coolant to boil over at a lower temperature than it should. If there's a leak the coolant could boil over before the fan comes on. I'd dry the bike off, fill the cooling system back up and start it up and look for leaks. Look for any drips or wet areas. The o ring on thermostats can fail. Looking at the wiring diagram. You could test the fan by pushing a bit of wire into the green/black connection on the fan relay, then touch the other end of the wire to the negative of the battery or the frame of the bike, the fan should come on. That will test the fan fuse, relay and the fan

42
General / Re: Faulty indicator
« on: 02 December 2019, 10:33:18 pm »
Have to say it's nice to see a good old fashion bike related problem on here. I was starting to give up on this place. Full of junk now

43
General / Re: Faulty indicator
« on: 02 December 2019, 10:21:58 pm »
Well unfazed answered already while I was writing so there's no point posting this it took a while to write so I'm still gonna post it :lol

I'm assuming this is the wiring diagram for your bike? http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php?action=downloads;sa=view;down=5 I think the fault is corrosion/a bad connection on the chocolate wire causing high resistance which is causing a voltage drop and limiting the current to the bulb. I think the fact that when you remove the left indicator bulb the arrow starts working shows the problem is in the chocolate wire. If the problem was a bad connection at the indicator bulb, a blown bulb or bad ground at the indicator bulb, the arrow would still work regardless of any of that but the arrow isn't working so that rules out all those problems. I think it has to be a problem on the chocolate wire. It could be corrosion/bad connection in the chocolate wire but corrosion/bad connections are more likely in connectors than wire so that's where I'd start. The diagram shows the chocolate wire going through the connector between the main harness and sub harness 1 at the front of the bike so that's where I would look first. If there's no signs of corrosion in there on the chocolate wire connection it has to be corrosion in the chocolate wire itself.

44
FZS600 Fazer / Re: Fuel pump noise fzs600
« on: 25 November 2019, 07:10:32 pm »
As a test you could temporarily unplug the connector to the pump and listen if the noise goes away when it's unplugged. If the noise goes away the problem is most likely the pump, if it's still there you know the problem isn't the pump. The bike should still run ok with the pump temporarily disconnected

45
FZS600 Fazer / Re: Clock Lights Dim
« on: 25 November 2019, 06:38:12 pm »
I've never had a problem seeing the gauges with the standard bulbs. Maybe some new standard bulbs is what you need. You could also measure the voltage you're getting at the bulb to make sure it's the full 12V

46
FZS600 Fazer / Re: Cant scrap the lean angle limiter (screw)
« on: 25 November 2019, 06:30:00 pm »

47
For Sale & Wanted / Re: 1999 'T' YAMAHA FAZER FZS600
« on: 12 November 2019, 06:08:25 pm »
Looks like a bargain for someone. It's still hard to beat a Fazer when it comes to bang for your buck

48
FZS600 Fazer / Re: Clock Lights Dim
« on: 04 November 2019, 09:54:39 pm »
Or the less scientific way to convince yourself, have a look on Youtube at people starting Fazers, you will see the red oil light come on briefly when they press the start button and go off when the release it

49
FZS600 Fazer / Re: Clock Lights Dim
« on: 04 November 2019, 09:38:25 pm »
It's on the 98 wiring diagram. You can see it if you follow the ground side of the oil level bulb. The bulb has two paths to ground, one path goes from the bulb to cut off relay to oil level switch to ground so the bulb gets ground when the oil level switch is closed, when the the oil level drops. The other path is from the bulb to cut off relay to alarm connector to start button to ground so the bulb gets ground when the start button is pressed.

The wiring diagram shows a direct connection between the cut off relay and the start button. That is a mistake. There is no direction connection, that was pointed out by unfazed here http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php?topic=25456.msg300493#msg300493

50
FZS600 Fazer / Re: Clock Lights Dim
« on: 04 November 2019, 07:13:53 pm »
When you press the start button the oil warning light is grounded through the cut off relay so the oil light should come on. It's a bulb test. You could use that to check that the oil light led is in correctly. If you turn the kill switch off you can hold the start button in and the light will come on without the engine starting.

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