This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.
Messages - Pal
1
« on: 01 November 2023, 03:59:35 pm »
Cheers Celticbiker, sorry I didn't reply sooner, completely forgot.
Been a couple of months now, and no issues as you say.
2
« on: 31 July 2023, 01:11:50 pm »
I took off the R&G tail tidy off my Fazer 8, that the bike came with, as I wanted more weather protection.
I bought a secondhand Fazer 1000 rear guard, which it the same part numbers as a Fazer 8.My query is regarding the number plate light, as the one on this guard seems loose. I took a look at it, and there are shouldered screws going through rubber bobbins, presumably for vibration damping, but mine seem very loose. Can anyone confirm whether this is correct and yours will move up and down to the touch?
[Edited to fix the tiny font: GrahamM - Moderator]
3
« on: 30 July 2023, 11:15:38 am »
I took off the R&G tail tidy off my Fazer 8, that the bike came with, as I wanted more weather protection.
I bought a secondhand Fazer 1000 rear guard, which it the same part numbers as a Fazer 8.
My query is regarding the number plate light, as the one on this guard seems loose. I took a look at it, and there are shouldered screws going through rubber bobbins, presumably for vibration damping, but mine seem very loose. Can anyone confirm whether this is correct and yours will move up and down to the touch?
4
« on: 20 June 2023, 01:21:30 pm »
Hi, my Fazer 8 is fitted with an R&G tail tidy, but as I'm an all year round rider, I want the added protection of the rear mudguard.
Has anyone fitted a tail tidy and want to sell their original mudguard?
5
« on: 16 May 2023, 09:54:28 am »
Want to fit a Scottoiler to my Fazer 8, but the space under the rear seat looks a bit limited for the reservoir.
Where has everyone else put theirs?
6
« on: 15 May 2023, 01:20:38 pm »
Well I took the plunge and now have a 2014 with under 20k, arrived a couple of days ago.
Went for a Sunday ride with some mates, and was quite impressed.
Handles well, and smooth over the potholed roads.
A couple of things, the seat isn't as comfy as the 600, and the tank capacity is down from 22 litres to 17, meaning instead of filling up every four days of my commute, it will be every there.
Also there id not a lot of space under the seat for a scottoiler. Where do other Fazer 8 owners put theirs?
7
« on: 27 April 2023, 09:31:33 am »
Hi
Further to my post on another page about having my FZS600 Fazer stolen, it has since been recovered trashed, so thoughts turn to a replacement.
Thinking of a Fazer 8, but want to know what to look out for.
Things I've heard about so far are the rear shock being awful and the dip beam only acting on one light.
Suspension mods on 13 plate and later bikes.
Anything else I should know about.
I've read that they were unpopular when new as were quite expensive, but the second hand market shoul dhave ebvened things up by now.
Looking at getting around 13 plate
8
« on: 25 April 2023, 08:32:12 pm »
Had my Fazer 600 lifted from outside my house last night sometime between 11pm and 1am.
Reg number is LF02ZFA, if anyone gets offered it or parts from it please inform the police or contact me direct.
9
« on: 22 January 2019, 12:06:48 am »
It might not be buggered it might just need to be cleaned. The float could be sticking or the wire going to the switch or a pin in a connector could be grounding.
On a side note there's some nice pictures of a R6 oil level gauge. The ring terminal is bolted to the engine so that is permanent ground. The float moves up and down on a shaft, when the float gets low enough it connects the ring terminal and the wire so the wire is grounded and your light comes on
Thanks mate, exactly the kind of answer I was hoping for. Will check out at next oil change, which will be in about three weeks, as long as the snow holds off..
10
« on: 21 January 2019, 01:23:52 pm »
If you're that clued up then i'd have thought you'd have at least known how to check your oil level properly? It's the difference between knowing what is written in the handbook, and WHY it is written that way in the handbook. My oil's fine, checked the way I did. BTW light came on again today. My switch is buggered.
11
« on: 19 January 2019, 10:27:41 am »
'Should' be okay, it's been known before to get a build up of sludge with oil that's a bit past its time causing the light to either come on or flicker, but you're doing things right, it was just a thought that was all.
Always best to change oil when it's warm to help avoid this scenario though.
I must admit to having a bit of a laugh with you, and copied the spec verbatim out of the handbook. I thought you were going to say about using bike specific or even fully syn in the Fazer. We all know oil debates can run to several pages on forums. I used to use Comma car oil semi syn 10W40 in all my bikes. exceeds the spec given in the handbook. I also used to do work on other peoples bikes, who (being unenlightened or loaded) wanted JASO MA2 oil, I don't have time to do extra work now, with family and work commitments, so having a couple of barrels left over from that, it's what I use in the Fazer. When it's gone, it'll be back to Comma. My ZRX1100 is tuned to the bollox and has run all it's life on Comma car oil. Puts out over 160 BHP at the rear wheel.
12
« on: 18 January 2019, 01:19:23 pm »
you could check the wiring for a short to ground. if the wire going to the level sensor is rubbed through and touching the engine or frame the light would come on
I had quick look at the wiring but will take a better look and take the switch out and test it, at the next oil change. Light didn't come on today.
13
« on: 18 January 2019, 01:17:58 pm »
Exactly what oil do you use, when was it last changed, and how often do you change it? I use semi synthetic 10w/40 that meets API service SE, SF, SG type or higher, changed every 6000 miles. Last change was at 58000 miles, which was just over 4000 miles ago
14
« on: 17 January 2019, 01:29:52 pm »
Yes I too have had the same issue with a flick on of the light after accelerating (with fun) from exiting roundabout. I looked at the level and it looked all ok so I put in about an egg cup full more oil and since then have not seen the light switch on.
As I said in my original post, this all happened at tickover at a junction. No 'spirted' riding, that came later. It was also more than a flick, it stayed on constantly for minutes until I stopped and turned everything off and back on. Didn't come on today, I think it was scared of the snow.
15
« on: 17 January 2019, 01:20:04 pm »
16
« on: 16 January 2019, 01:33:10 pm »
So from what others are saying, the egg cup left in the galleries after several minutes after running the bike up to temp, is offset by the egg cup of expansion of the oil. When cold the egg cup that was in the galleries is now in the sump, and the egg cup due to heat expansion is no longer relevant. ergo, the level will be the same in both hot and cold scenarios.
With regards to my own personal experience, the light has come on, on only one of the ten journeys I have made since my original post, if the oil level was dangerously low as has been suggested, it was low for all ten journeys, but only lit the lamp once. In the interest of covering all the bases, I checked the oil as per the manual, and marked a line after seven minutes, and then checked it again after two hours, and there was no difference whatsoever in the level. I then warmed the bike up and topped up to the top line. On four journeys since, the light has come on twice.
Back to my original question, before I was accused of being an idiot, has anybody else had trouble with their oil light?
A new switch is £86, so I'll look for a S/H one, unless I can fix the old one.
17
« on: 11 January 2019, 01:12:27 pm »
Midway between the two lines with a cold engine switched off means not enough oil.
Go on then, I'll bite. Midway between the two lines that Yamaha cast into the casing is not correct? Has anyone told Yamaha this? Is there a recall to get replacement recalibrated casings?
18
« on: 10 January 2019, 01:19:18 pm »
At some points in my ownership, the level has fallen so you couldn't see it in the window, no light came on. This is midway between the two lines and the light comes on, strange. Didn't come on today, perhaps it was too cold for the light to make an appearance.  Next oil change I'll take the sender out and check it over, until then, a bit of insulating tape should sort out the distracting lamp.
19
« on: 09 January 2019, 01:39:49 pm »
Checked with the window, on centre stand on level ground, when cold.
20
« on: 09 January 2019, 01:23:30 pm »
Twice in the last two days, my oil light has come on, spookily in exactly the same place on my daily commute.
After around a mile, I come to a T junction, and while idling, the light comes on. Revving the engine doesn't kame it go out, and when I pull away and lean left and right it still satys on. Stopping, switching off the ignition and then back on makes it go out, but I'm thinking the switch might be on its' way out.
Bike has 62000 miles and yes the oil is topped up.
21
« on: 09 January 2019, 01:16:39 pm »
Rear shock seem to be getting a bit tired after 62000 miles.
I don't take pillions, but the compression damping isn't as good as it was, and the spring is tired as it seems to sit lower than it used to.
How long have others stock shock lasted?
I do 300 miles a week commuting and do not spend any money on the bike I don't have to, was thinking of the YSS ones from the bay as replacement.
22
« on: 21 December 2018, 09:44:27 am »
While taking the wheel out to get my new tyre fitted, I noticed that the ceramic speedo sensor was broken. I know the little ears normally break off, but they were fine, a piece of the cylinder part had come away.
I got a new one on order but fitted the broken one as I needed the bike to the commute to work. I thought it would either work or not, what I got was a working speedo that read low. 6k revs in top is a smidge over 70mph usually, today it was reading 50mph at 6k.
New one should arrive today so will get fitted over Christmas, just thought I would share.
23
« on: 20 December 2018, 01:28:35 pm »
Ever since I've had the Fazer there has been noise from the front end, more noticeable at lower speeds when riding with the visor up.
At first I changed wheel bearings, checked the speedo hub, greased everything in sight and checked for loose fairing etc, nothing made any difference. I changed the screen and tried taping things up in order to find the source, but after a while I gave up, and ignored it. I've now done 40 odd thousand miles on the bike. I fitted a new tyre yesterday and it came back, I hadn't realised that it had gone away until the first ride this morning.
For the last 10000 miles I've had a Michelin Macadam 100 that I got second hand with a wheel I got from the bay, these have a ribbed centre tread, and while they pick up road imperfections, had dampened the road noise. The 023 has no centre ribs, and this seems to be the source of the noise.
24
« on: 20 December 2018, 01:17:51 pm »
I get my tyres from Oponeo online these days, they generally have two prices, one for deliveries in the next two or three days, or a cheaper price if you can wait about a week.
Then i take the loose wheel to my bike shop and they fit it for me.
It still works out way cheaper doing things this way if that's a possible option for you, as long as you're okay removing the wheel yourself and have a lift or your own car to transport the loose wheel.
https://www.oponeo.co.uk/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI0JKi9t-e3wIVxLHtCh0EsQPhEAAYASAAEgJkX_D_BwE
Darrsi Got my front 023 fitted yesterday and enquired about the Oponeo thing, as he is registered as one of the places you can get you tyres shipped to direct. His price for an 023 rear was £107 plus change fitted and balanced, which compared to £106 from Oponeo, obviously with fitting and balancing on top. Ride-in tyres in Reading is the place, I can't recommend him highly enough.
25
« on: 15 December 2018, 01:39:54 am »
Firstly, the Michelin PR3's and PR4's are recommended on here by couriers, people that do touring, and also the every day commuter like me.
I cannot speak any higher of them.
The wet and dry grip is the same, they are simply brilliant all round.
They don't do a 110 front in the PR4, hence the PR3 instead.
Good to know. Might give a PR4 rear a go in a couple of months when the canvas starts showing in the 021 I have on there now
|
Show Posts