Quote from: Jbizzle on 27 August 2016, 10:01:44 pm

Ok cheers Darrsi. Il get them cleaned up and lined with the proper stuff. if using the be right lubricant doesn't work any suggestions on what else can cause binding?

There's a small chance that the copper grease could be causing the rubber seals to swell, plus the copper granules in the grease will cause friction.
You seriously need to remove it as soon as you can.
Google 'copper grease brake pistons' and you'll understand where i'm coming from.
Chances are this alone is your issue.

Hi Darrsi,


All cleaned out and used the proper red rubber grease, voila, binding has stopped! Do you reckon I will have knackered the seals?


Thanks,


James

Hi all,

Cheeky update if anyone was interested.

A bit of a nightmare on the way up, got about 30 miles north of London and the front brakes started to bind pretty bad. Pulled over at a halfords who were good enough to lend me some tools. 2hrs later and a lot of brake cleaner they are spotless and properly copper eased but still binding. Any ideas?

Anyway loss of time meant I had to head up the M1 to meet my friend on time in Leeds to crash at his place, in the pouring rain I might add. However seeing an old mate and a few beers cheered me up a load.

Yesterday in glorious sunshine I made my way to Glasgow through the Peak District and Lake District which made all the motorway miles completely worth it! Such amazing roads.

Also baby have been essential!

Thanks Frosties you are a gem!

http://shop.marksman-ind.com/ya009---fzs600-fazer-600-98-03-front-wheel-bearing-kit-with-seals-3081-p.asp

Thanks Tefer . . .


This is what I ended up purchasing


http://www.wemoto.com/bikes/yamaha/fzs_600_fazer_sp/02-03/picture/front_wheel_bearing_kit_with_dust_seals/

Hi Foccers,


Does anyone know what the specification is for the front wheel bearings?  I can't seem to find them in my owners manual or Haynes manual. 


Thanks,


James

Hi all,

I will be heading off to Scotland from London on my 2003 FZS600 over the Aug bank holiday weekend. Is there any bits of advice that will make this more comfortable/safe?

I have decent safety gear and go out fairly prepared with tool kit, inc. fuel hose for siphoning if I run out, mobile charger hooked up. I will also have a good look round the bike, check tires and their pressures, chain clean and lube.  Apart from an end can, renthals and top box the bike is pretty much standard.

What are the prevailing thoughts on tire plugs?

Anything I am missing?

Cheers,

James

Thanks for all the help guys.




Is it possible to swap just one gear? I.E just the 6th gear?


That way I could leave the rest of the gears as they are, and just get better performance from 6th?


Thanks,

Hi all,

Is it possible to increase the speed vs revs ratio of the gears for more comfortable use on the motorway?

I am going to be doing some touring over the summer, currently when at motorway speeds 70/80 mph equals about 6000/7000 revs.

I have always found the current gear ratios mean I need to change up through the gears really quickly when riding in town, especially getting out first. Basically I want to know if it is possible/economically viable to switch the gears out of my FZS 600 (2003).

Thanks!

£80 to fit tyres? Even £30 for bare wheels seems a bit pricey

Yeah I thought it was a bit steep, the guy on the phone didn't seem to keen when I said I had bought them online and just wanted them fitted. I guess it eats into their margin? 


He really didn't sound arsed to do a ride in ride out. wierd, i'd heard that Watlings were supposed to be good?

Not the answer your after but why not do one wheel at a time, could save a lot of expense and time in the long run

I did think about it, given the carnage that can ensue if it gets dropped.


Might end up doing this as the bike is fairly mint so there would be tears before bed time if I smashed it up. 

What is the best way to go about supporting my bike if I want to take off both wheels?


I want to take them down to Watling's to get both tyres changed.  If you take them to them loose it works out at £15 a wheel.


I'm guessing some sort of center stand and bricks combo might do it?


Cheers!

Installed Rental 758's.
[/size]
[/size]Following on from my first bit of maintenance -  [/size]swearing my way through oil and oil filter change (thanks dad for an epic garage full of tools!)
[/size]
[/size]This being my first bike I wasn't sure if it was a good idea, but fock it I had a crack at the bars.
[/size]
[/size]Thankfully no switch gear got damaged 
[/size]
[/size]One thing people might find useful is if you are struggling to get bar ends to fit the bars,  J&S stock the smaller 14mm diameter bar ends you need.  The internal diameter is just under 14mm.
[/size]
[/size]Also hit up Screwfix for Rawl Fixing anchor bolts, Drill Diameter 12mm, M6, 25L, (Part no.R-S1-RBL2-M6/25/5) are the puppies you want. Much more sturdy that the rubbish rubber grommets!
[/size]
[/size]Now onwards to get the gear / brake levers and bar ends powder coated black to go with them.

Its the "lifeblood" of the engine so if Yamaha say 10W40 semi-synthetic thats what to use. Some car oils contain friction modifiers which work fine in car engines with their dry clutches & separate gearbox oil, but can play havoc in wet clutch(motorcycle) engines. Not worth the risk for the sake of a few quid.

Thanks Dave, Purchased some 10w-40 Castrol Power 1 4T, I wes given a K&N filter with th bike when i purchased it last week so i think i am good to go!