Just thought I'd share my experience with this issue especially as so far it has gone in my favour.


Bought some forks with completely seized adjusters and made the usual mistake of trying to force them with loose fitting flat head and obviously sheared off a bit of brass so left it at that and got some pen fluid on it over night. Next day still nothing and it was clear if I continued I'd just strip the brass.


Next step it getting the biggest screw driver available and using a rotary tool with a sanding attachment file the flat head down so it's a really tight fit with no movement at all. Once that's sorted and with the forks off the bike, use a quality 19mm spanner to unscrew the whole adjuster mechanism and give it a good clean with a wire brush then soak it in penetrating fluid over night.


Next day after removing the rubber o ring blowtorch the top/brass bit with a kitchen blowtorch, not a powerful plumbing one as I don't believe it needs to get red hot and perhaps could be damaged by it. Once it's smoking for 30-60 seconds drop it back into the pen fluid which is probably best done outside and in a metal container for obvious reasons, I used a food tin.


Once cooled you should get a bit of movement with the modded screw driver, if not repeat the heating and cooling in pen fluid. After a bit of gentle wiggling it should free up. It will likely sound like shit with grinding or squeaking noises and is unlikely to have any noticeable clicks.


Wrap it in a bit cloth and carefully clamp it with mole grips or a vice but be very careful not to damage the threads and use the old fire by friction method of spinning a stick back and forth very quickly with the screwdriver, just kept at it multiple times throughout the day applying wd40 regularly until it feels nice and smooth and the indicator clicks can be felt and heard.




A word of caution - Be careful not to wind the adjuster in past it's designed stopping point while turning clockwise. It seems the brass cone at the back of the mechanism which protrudes through the steel hole and blocks off the oil flow can be deformed by over tightening which causes the adjuster to have more than the stated 21 clicks as some of the cones end up protruding further.


So far out of the four adjusters I've freed up the clicks range from 24-38. The standard setting for the forks is 6 clicks out from being turn in all the way clockwise but if one of your adjusters has 21 clicks and the other 38 then 6 clicks out will not give the same results. I've noticed the all the adjusters looked the same when wound all the way out, anti-clockwise so if this happens id recommend counting your clicks in, clockwise as opposed to out, anti-clockwise making the standard setting 15 clicks clockwise from the fully turned out (anti-clockwise) position.


This has worked on all four adjusters of my original forks and the additional purchased forks which were all seized solid so I'd say it's a good and safe method. Hope this helps someone at some point because it's a real bitch and bloody expensive if it doesn't go right!

looking for hard panniers with all mounting brackets included and or top box 

As per title who's the people to go to for custom seats? I know of Tony Archer and Digger but is there another? I seem to remember having one made for 600 ( now looking for my thou) which I don't think was either one of these guys but I can't remember!

Looking into getting some extra lighting and wondering if anyone has any recommendations?
Ebay, my go to site seems to mostly be selling the same very cheap looking lights which look as though they're more suited to a BMW gs1200 with bulky metal surrounds than a fazer. Also the picture of some of the beams look like a narrow focus hunting torch which could be a bit limiting.

does anyone know what length front lines I'd need when the bikes fitted with Renthal 755 bars?

just wanted to know other people's opinions on the very different pricing for aftermarket levers, do I go for the expensive £100 a lever    asv levers which I'm sure must be quality or the cheap Chinese levers which look pretty much the same but are under £20 a pair! Or others at around £60 a pair... such a massive difference for what I suppose is just a small piece of milled metal but saying that you wouldn't want your brake lever to snap or fall off going into a bend of summat. Anyone got either cheap or expensive ones or have any input?

NOW SOLD For sale is my 2001 600 fazer.


MOT'd early march 2018, mileage is 31k, rear tyre has less than 1000 mile on it, same with chain and sprocket. This spring I did kebabs front fork mod, new dust and oil seals, yss emulators and öhlins springs rated at 85nm. I've got the original damper rods and springs so it can be reverted back. Carb inlet rubbers replaced about two years ago and are in great condition. Carb balance done last month and the engine starts and runs extremely well. I had the seat made around three years ago and it is slightly lowered with a gel insert. Headlight mod also done. LED indicators, LED tail light. Looking for offers around £1150 located in Bristol all paperwork in my name 07449838290

As the title says it's not in the best condition but might be useful to someone. If anyone wants it price is whatever postage is, probably around a fiver or free to collect from Bristol.

Does anyone know how to split the headlight open without damaging it?


I bought one off eBay cheaply to be fair (was also advertised on here) with a stated broken fairing mount lug but the seller must not have checked under the rubber bulb seals as the reflector/shield on the near side light is broken and flapping about only held in place with some wire. I bought it as the front lense on mine is heat damaged from having electrical tape stuck to it to pass an MOT as it was wired up wrong, no longer thanks to the headlight mod post on here! So I want to swap the good lense from the eBay unit with the good back housing of mine but as well as the tap/clips holding the two together it appears to be glued or have a sealant which I guess makes sense... got me a bit stuck at the mo

Hi everyone hopefully one of you will know what I need to do...Recently my bike has stranded me twice when accelerating from first into second gear, getting stuck in neutral during the gear change. The problem seemed to be a tab on the selector rod bending and preventing a gear change, I changed the rod and it fixed the issue for about a week or so before the same thing happened again.


Yet again I replaced the selector rod as well as the clutch friction plates, springs and cable. Now the bike decides to develop another fault in the form of jumping out of gear and going back into neutral, doesn't happen in first gear but at around 5-6 thousand rpm in jumps out of 2 and 3, probably the others too but I've been un able to get to that point.


I'm guessing there is a reason why the tab on the selector fork keeps bending and it's probably related to the new jumping out of gear issue. Does anyone have any advise?

Hi, thought I would pop my head in as one of your foot soldiers left a card on my bike today at the Weston supermare bike night........who was that? Here's my fazer

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