Its some price difference between your two and even the one Guenter posted.

The Tourmax kit is indeed more expensive but the quality is o.k. and it comes with a lubricant for assembly that nearly looks like the red rubber grease (the colour is a little bit lighter).

Best regards
Guenter

I can't see a pic

Strange I can see it. And I loaded it up in the same way like the other pictures.
I just painted the spots and the housing in a glossy black. Both colours are a 2 component caliper paint.

I always use ATE brake caliper grease for caliper and master cylinder rebuilts.
The Red Rubber Grease looks a little bit like the grease that comes with the Tourmax caliper sealing kits.
The Tourmax stuff has a little bit lighter colour.

Regards
Gunter

INSTRUCTIONS
"...To set the tensioner adjustment, rotate the engine forward while screwing the tensioner bolt in. When you feel the engine tensioner parts (guide, rollers, etc.) make contact with the moving cam chain, back the tensioner bolt out 1/4 turn and tighten the jam nut. (For the finer pitch thread on the APE Pro Series tensioner it is advised to back the tensioner up 1/2 of a turn.)..."

The instructions in the ebay link which are reffering to a certain value for the chain deflection that should be adjusted sound for me more reliable.
With the quoted instructions above I have my doubts to get the right tension because it is an indirect method and the chain deflection depends on the lenght of the chain, the type, number an position of the chain guides and so on.
But I am still not sure if you get the designed tension to the chain by measuring the deflection in any case. For a spring/ratch type chain tensioner like we have it on the Fazer it might work more or less. Because you can measure the deflection on an opened and not running engine with the original tensioner and then adjust the same value with the manual tensioner.
But with oil-pressure assisted tensioners this is not so easy. And these hydraulic systems are the only ones where I could imagine that they might back out when closing the throttle. Why should a ratchet tensioner like it is used in the Fazer do that? It is mechanically blocked in the reverse direction.
Pushing the original tensioner manually to the next notch in case of chain noise would be my preferred  method (I have the same issues on my TDM850 and there it is common practice).

Best regards
Guenter

In the German spare parts catalog I can find it.
http://www.yamaha-motor.eu/de/services/genuine-parts/index.aspx
Start with "Yamaha Online Ersatzteilkatalog öffnen" a new window opens click on "Ich stimme zu" which means "I agree".
Then choose in step one "401 -750", in step two "Fazer - FZS600" and in step 3 "2000" or "2001", choose a colour and then go on the picture
"Nockenwelle & Nockenwellenkette"
position 8, item# 4HM-12213-00

Regards
Guenter

Thank you for the kind welcome 

mikeread lives there doesn't he.?

I could not find him in the member list.

I like the rear lens and the 'private' plate :-)

If you want to register a vehicle in Germany you can check via internet if a "suitable" plate is available.
But you have to stay in the following restrictions:
The first digits (which I erased on my plates)  show where you are from. And then you have one ore two letters and 2 to 4 numbers.
When you have found one you can reserve it for one week. The costs for this are 12,80 €.
I was often lucky.
Here is the plate of my Porsche 924S:



And here of the rest of my bikes.
TDM850 and NTV650 are o.k. but for the BMW I had to make a compromise.
RR 100 or RR 10 were on my whish list but not available any more.
In Germany they call the old airhead BMWs "Gummikuh" and "Q" in the German pronunciation sounds like "Kuh".
So I chose QR 10 



Regards

Guenter

A  really interesting question: which torque do you use for the sprocket nut?
Originally it is 70 Nm but the service bulletin says it should be 90 Nm. But it also says that you sould use Loctite 620 and this is "a little bit" more than a simple locking agent. Loosing the nut later on could be a quiet intrestening adventure....
I had a look on my newly bought  FZS600 with only 10100 miles run. And the nut was slightly loose. There was rust on the thread of the nut and on the drive shaft. The thread diameter was with 17,8 mm over the service limit.
I installed the service kit with the 12mm nut but applied only the original 70 Nm without lockking agent. But I folded 3 sides of the securing washer to the nut and I will observe this.

Regards
Guenter