I'm not sure someone who thinks a 150hp bike on a 35mph island shouldn't be locked up..    so as to any advice from him 
Just kiddin', still got the fz1?
I said borderline & your chart doesn't differentiate between std & gel.
 

Your charging voltage is good enough, ideally it would be 14v but over 13.5v is satisfactory.
However, 12.7v at rest is borderline.
Also, battery voltage needs to be measured at the very least 30 minutes after charging otherwise the reading will be inaccurate.
Charge it, leave it an hour then measure the voltage. If less than 12.8v consider buying a new one.

Hi
I've use all three types.
The stock seat was uncomfortable but I still managed 300+ days
I then tried the Yamaha 'touring' seat but it didn't offer much more comfort & I felt I was positioned too high in relation to the bars.
I am using a Tony Archer modified seat at the moment & it is very comfortable & retains a similar position as the stock seat. He did rider & pillion seats for £90.
 

Anyother replies are pointless. It'll have blew up by now 

I have numerous probolt accessories on my FZ1 but I'd baulk at £17 for those. I paid less than £3 delivered from ebay  for A2 SS.
 

The PC3 you need is either : FZ1 06 onwards or R1 04 - 06 or PCV for FZ1.
I  have the PC3 & Ignition module but the PCV is the way to go.

Hi
Firstly, these posts should have been in the original thread. It's easier for those wanting to help if they can see what's been's tried already. Listing any mods undertaken is also useful .
A couple of things to try in the sequence listed below:
1) If it doesn't fire immediately it's unlikely to fire at all. The best method is press the starter, if it fails to start within a few seconds, switch it off then straight back on and try again.  This method worked everytime for me when I was having similar issues.
2) Set the tickover to between 1250 - 1350rpm
3) Add some injector cleaner to the fuel.
4) Replace the fuel line. It may look okay but the only way to be sure is to replace it with some flexible injector hose.
Ignore the cel when you're attempting to start it if it goes out immediately when the engine is running.
Goodluck, it can be a frustrating business faultfinding. I could write a book on my experiences in the 7 years I've owned my gen2
Dek
 
 

Hi
Leaving the cat in the midpipe will help lowend torque but if you want maximum topend from the pipe you need to remove it. It adds about 3hp. Your choice.
Good choice btw
Dek

There is no need to complicate or overthink the issue.
The symptoms he describes are exactly as hundreds of us gen2 owners have experienced.
It is in almost every case a simple fix by freeing up the thermowax plunger.
The thermowax unit incidentally won't give an error code.

Mike as ever is on the money.
The rod on the thermowax unit will be sticking.
Get the temp upto 75+, raise the tank and see if the plunger is pushing down on the throttle linkage.
If it isn't try wd40 and to physically move it.
It's not uncommon on the gen2 and is an easy fix.