Date: 29-03-24  Time: 04:50 am

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Messages - roxburd

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1
Hey all,

2001 FZS 1000

I've just replaced my exhaust valve control cables and now have a fault with my neutral light!!!

Just wondered if anyone's seen this before. It's intermittent - just occasionally, the neutral light fails to come on when it should. Most of the time it works fine.

I guess I've disturbed the circuit somehow. I've traced the sensor line through the block connector in the left-hand fairing (blue/white wire), through the block connector on the left of the seat to the bullet connector on the right of the seat (black wires) and then on to the sensor. The sensor is a bugger to locate! Eventually found it on the left rear of the engine behind the coolant tank.

Having had all those connectors apart, wiggled them and re-connected them, the fault was gone... then, on my test ride, the fault came back just briefly.

Anyone seen that before? Is there a connector on the sensor itself that I might have disturbed? Or maybe I've broken the wire where it meets the sensor while I was running the new exhaust cables into place - it was a bit tight/awkward getting them in.

Any ideas welcome.

Cheers,
Dave

2
Cheers guys,


Yeah, I do need to take panniers and a pillion and camping stuff strapped down onto the top plate.


I also do some bloodrunning and for that I need to be able to strap down two big boxes. On the FZS one goes on the top plate and the other on the pillion seat so I'd need something similar on the FZ1.


The idea of using the rear light built in to the top box is a great idea, thanks, robbo. But I don't use a top box. I guess I'll have to look at other bikes. Such a shame.


Cheers,
Dave

3
Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / Luggage options for FZ1S - NOT Givi or Kappa
« on: 12 April 2021, 09:21:30 am »

Hey all,


I have a 2001 FZS Fazer 1000 with the Givi kit fitted and I'm very happy with it. It's not the prettiest thing ever but it doesn't stand out too bad and it gets the job done. It looks like this:


I'm looking for luggage options for a 2013 FZ1S Fazer 1000 and I'm seeing this:


Now... I understand that the tail is much shorter on the FZ1S... so that causes issues for mounting luggage... but hmmm. Well, it does look a bit like a load of scaffolding hung off the back of the bike. That's unfortunate but the big problem for me is that the black side rail that supports the top plate actually obscures the rear light! When I think about my trip back from the IoM a couple of years back, 6 hours at night in rain so heavy you couldn't see a thing... the thought of someone joining the carriageway behind me and my rear light being obscured by my luggage... Well, that's enough for me to avoid the bike altogether - if I can't fit it with a luggage system that's safe.


So my question is, are there any other luggage system options for the FZ1S?


Cheers,
Dave

4
General / Re: Ever ride alone?
« on: 07 March 2020, 09:49:30 am »
Sounds interesting.But can it be changed so that it does not track until after the stationary 5mins, and then stops tracking if I reply. Wouldn't want it to be used see that I was doing 31 in a 30 zone before I entered the ditch.


Could it be changed so it didn't check your speed until after it knows you're stationary? Just think about that one a minute...


But seriously, the speed data is never transmitted anywhere and it's only kept (in the app's memory) for a rolling 5-minute window and then it's deleted.

5
General / Ever ride alone?
« on: 06 March 2020, 07:32:46 pm »
Ever thought what would happen if you ended up in a ditch unconscious out of sight?


Ha! Yeah, cheerful thought, huh? I was watching Emergency Helicopter Medics or something similar recently and an old fella did exactly that - he was there for four hours, I think it was, before he was found.


Wouldn't it be cool if you phone noticed and texted your exact location to summon help?


Anyway, I wrote this Android app for the Bloodrunners to automate controller messaging and stuff and I've extended it to do that - if you turn the tracker on it will monitor your location and if you're stationary for five minutes it will alert you to ask if you're OK. It'll ask again every minute for five minutes. If you don't respond it will text your exact location to the number you've set up.


Anyway, like I said, it's mainly for Bloodrunners but if anyone wanted to try it our for me that would be VERY helpful. It's very hard to test because every device (and GPS chip-set) behaves so differently - different accuracy, timings, reliability.


If you fancy giving it a go please do - it's called Bloodriders and it's on the app store at:
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=org.serv.ridersapp


Just one ask from me - please let me know how you get on with it, GOOD OR BAD. Like I said, it's very difficult to test. I've tested it really just on one phone so I have no idea how well it will run on others.


If you like it post a review and tell your mates.


If you hate it tell me about it ;-)


Cheers!
Dave

6
General / Re: Wanted: Broken Givi Monokey pannier / top box
« on: 08 February 2020, 01:03:15 pm »
I got one you can have mate. its actually perfectly servicable but I cant find the key. whereaboutsare you? im forest of dean (gl16) but will be travelling to warboys and peterbrough in cambs in me van tomorrow


For anyone reading this thread, Mr Ogri is a bloody hero - many thanks, I've been looking for something like this for quite a while now and Ogri has donated his box and paid the postage too. Many units of blood products will be carried right across the country with it securing them to the bike. Good on yer!

7
General / Wanted: Broken Givi Monokey pannier / top box
« on: 07 February 2020, 01:43:55 pm »
I've recently started volunteering with SERV (the bloodrunners) and I need to make up a board to strap the boxes on to the back of my Fazer - I have a Givi Monokey plate on there and I want to make the board up from a sheet of aluminium with angle riveted round the edge and the locating and locking bits from a pannier riveted on too so it will snap on and off the plate like a top box.[/color][/size][/font][/size][/color]Panniers sell on eBay for £30 but I don't really need an intact one - a smashed-up one will do fine if the locating and locking bits are salvageable.[/font][/color]I'm happy to pay for the bits and postage.[/font][/color]It has to be Monokey rather than Monolock to fit the plate.[/font][/color]Cheers,[/font][/color]Dave[/font][/color][/font]

8
Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / Can W-rated tyres be repaired?
« on: 23 January 2020, 04:38:21 pm »
I picked up a puncture this afternoon - rear Metzeler Roadtec 01 180/55 ZR17
It's done about 2,000 miles.



The entry point is about 1cm left of the centre-line and it's on a proud part (not hidden in a tread channel). You can see a 5mm-long line where the tyre has been damaged.


The garage who fitted it says "Ooo, you can't repair W-rated tyres, no, that'll be ker-ching for a new one".


The other fella down the road says "Some manufacturers say 'No repairs' and others say 'Yeah, fine' and there's no rhyme or reason. If it's a nice neat hole like a nail has gone straight in and out then it should repair just fine. If it's more of a cut then no."


What's the deal? I'm tending toward getting a new tyre for the obvious reasons but I'm also thinking "I've had so many bike tyres repaired over the decades, are tyres suddenly not repairable any more for some reason or are people just more risk averse / grabbing?"


Has anyone had a workshop-fitted repair fail??


Dave

9
General / Re: Anyone got a broken Givi Monokey pannier??
« on: 01 December 2019, 10:03:06 am »

Cheers Mike,


Thanks for the offer!


Would you consider splitting the pair?


A quick check on eBay shows that the plate alone sells ("completed items") for between £16 and £40 on its own.


If you'd do me the box for £20 and flog the plate on eBay you could easily make £40 overall?? That's £10 more than if I took the plate that I don't need??


Cheers,
Dave

10
General / Anyone got a broken Givi Monokey pannier??
« on: 30 November 2019, 04:02:19 pm »

I've recently started volunteering with SERV (the bloodrunners) and I need to make up a board to strap the boxes on to the back of my Fazer - I have a Givi Monokey plate on there and I want to make the board up from a sheet of aluminium with angle riveted round the edge and the locating and locking bits from a pannier riveted on too so it will snap on and off the plate like a pannier.

Panniers sell on eBay for £30 but I don't really need an intact one - a smashed-up one will do fine if the locating and locking bits are salvageable.

I'm happy to pay for the bits and postage.

It has to be Monokey rather than Monolock to fit the plate.

Cheers,
Dave

11
Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / Re: Metal (aluminium) filler???
« on: 26 June 2019, 09:22:58 pm »
Speedi Sleeves - wow, will remember them for the future.


So I threw some JB Weld in there - pretty happy with the result - smooth as a baby's bum.


Just gotta make up a press now to press the new bearings in. Anyone got one they can lend??


Swingarm_outer_filled
Swingarm_outer_filled

12
Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / Re: Metal (aluminium) filler???
« on: 24 June 2019, 01:26:21 pm »
JB Weld?


Cheers, good call.


JB Weld is probably best but the aluminium is so soft I'm wondering about using epoxy resin instead. I've not used JB Weld before but it's supposed to be so hard I'm concerned it's much harder than the aluminium so it'll be hard to work the filled surface to a good final finish...

13
Articles / Re: HOW TO: Replace swingarm bearings.
« on: 23 June 2019, 08:13:15 pm »
I tried cutting my bearings out with a chisel... it destroyed the chisel and made absolutely no impression on the bearing whatsoever. Maybe I bought cheap chisels but that bearing outer body material is hard as f*ck! I found the spacer (pivot shaft) was the best drift I could find and as mine was nackered I was gonna be replacing it anyway.


If anyone's struggling to find parts (2001 FZS1000) I found Fowlers was great because they have the technical schematic that you can zoom in on to find the exact bits you need. Spacer (pivot shaft), 2 bearings and 2 caps is about £170. They have the grease seals that go either end of all the other suspension bearings too at about £2.70 a pop - Haynes says they should always be replaced...



Thanks for the tips and the excellent write-up!!

14
Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / Metal (aluminium) filler???
« on: 23 June 2019, 07:59:12 pm »

OK, so I've ordered new caps to go on the swingarm but the pivot outer was really scored and pitted on one end - it was gonna chew up the new oil seal in minutes. So I smoothed it with some sand screen (like emery cloth) but it's still not good - see photo. Is there a product I could use to fill this? I was thinking of just using body filler but I don't know if that will work well with the grease and the oil seal rubbing across it. The swingarm is aluminium so it needs to be approximately as soft as aluminium. But it's only a surface for the oil (grease) seal to seal against so it's not super-critical. I just want to get a good seal, basically. Any ideas?


Cheers


Swingarm_outer
Swingarm_outer

15
Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / Seized swingarm spacer off 40,000 mile bike
« on: 23 June 2019, 03:32:11 pm »

I thought I'd have the rear end out for a once-over while I was fitting a new chain and sprockets - I was expecting to find that it might need a bit of a re-grease. What I found was the swingarm spacer seized solid with corrosion (2001 bike). So solid that was actually difficult to knock the spacer out. The photo shows the worst affected end which I'm guessing was the left-hand side - I'm guessing that it was sitting in water when the bike was leant over on the side-stand.


The bearings were a nightmare to get out - I put a chisel on them but the chisel was wrecked and the bearing was entirely unmarked. But I found that the spacer itself made the best drift to knock them out with.


So if your bike's got wet much you might wanna have a little look see. New spacer, bearings and cover caps about £170 from Fowlers.


Swingarm_spacer_40000
Swingarm_spacer_40000

16
Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / Re: Rear suspension linkage grease seals
« on: 20 June 2019, 09:44:44 pm »
Ah, found them - £2.27 each from Fowlers in Bristol.

17
Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / Rear suspension linkage grease seals
« on: 20 June 2019, 09:27:29 pm »
Haynes says the grease seals on the rear suspension linkage should always be replaced - anyone know where I can get a set??


Cheers,
Dave

18
General / Ear plugs - recommendations??? Minerva any good???
« on: 17 June 2019, 10:48:36 am »



Test rode a Thruxton on Saturday - 3 hours across Essex and Suffolk. Superb. Want one.


But after the ride my ears were RINGING. So I've decided I can't get one until I've found some hearing protection that works (which means another test ride :-)
I was using the same old disposable yellow foam plugs I've been using for decades but the extra wind noise (from having no fairing, I guess) was too much for them.


I'm looking at getting the Minerva custom-made BikePlugs at £115 fitted and supplied through SpecSavers - reviews? recommendations?


Cheers,
Dave

19
Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / Re: New technique? Cleaning brake pistons.
« on: 09 June 2019, 04:39:06 pm »
Don't use anything other than Red Rubber Grease on brake pistons. You can use it to keep the rubber seals in place, and aid the refitting of the pots, and it will prolong the life of the rubber.
Then smear it on the exposed area of the pots before pushing them back in so that the pads can be placed.
I service mine just before winter kicks in and then around April when it warms up again, and it keeps them functioning perfectly all year round.


Cheers dude, good tips!

20
Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / Chain & sprocket recommendations
« on: 31 May 2019, 11:32:33 am »
So the trip to the Isle of Man convinced me it's time to replace the chain & sprockets. The slack isn't too big and the 10-link length isn't too big but the difference between the looser and tighter spots is big enough that at a slow cruise it slaps about horribly. Also, the rear sprocket teeth are pretty worn.


On Internet searches I'm seeing a lot of chains with split links. With a 140bhp bike I would automatically go for an endless chain. I'm gonna service all the suspension linkages while I'm at it so there's no extra work required to fit an endless chain anyway.


Do you go for a split-link chain for the FZS1000???


Also, any other advice / recommendations on product?? Replacement gotchas / tips??


I've been given some Maxton link rods which raise the back end so I'm planning to fit them too - anyone tried them?? I recently notice that the previous owner had rammed the pre-load right up to the max, presumably to improve the geometry so hopefully I can put these links in and put the pre-load back to mid-range.


Cheers!!

21
Just got back from the Isle of Man. It was raining slightly when they made the mountain one-way which meant less traffic up there. The Metzeler Roadtec 01s were really superb - I had enough confidence to push on almost like it was dry. In fact it was the wind that made me shit my pants - just after Windy Corner there's some sweeping left-handers and I drifted out to the right to get a good line round there and the wind caught me and pushed me toward some unplanned off-roading...


On the 450 mile trip back form Liverpool it was torrential, really, really bad. But again, the Roadtecs were great. Yeah, nothing bad to say about them.

22
Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / Re: Tweaking suspension when fully-loaded
« on: 31 May 2019, 11:00:49 am »
Well, just got back from the Isle of Man. I had a good play with pre-load and compression damping and it did make quite a difference, so much so that the suspension felt perfect on the ride there, two-up fully loaded, but when I was riding round the island one-up after dumping all the luggage I had to put the compression damping down again as the front was too stiff and harsh. You're dead right about pre-load, Celtic, just moves the rest position.

23
For anyone reading this with the same issue as me - the 348FZ fits the 2001 model perfectly and includes the brackets to hang the indicators.


The PL349 does not fit the 2001 model. They moved the right-hand pillion footrest/exhaust hanger in and up on the 2003 model so the PL349 leaves a nearly inch gap when fitted to a 2001 model. And the tubes are damn stiff, as you would hope, so they're almost impossible to bend.


However, if you happen to have a heavy-duty pipe bender (for plumbing) that will just about do the trick with some very careful geometry dead-reckoning and a lot of huffing and puffing. And luckily, the tube is just the right length so with the right bend the mounting slot ends up just the right place. The tubes take the bending well and didn't even need any touching-up (though I did wrap them in cloth before the bend).


Another tip - Givi recommend cutting the leads to your indicators to insert the extender leads. That means electrical connectors hanging around exactly where all the spray gets thrown up. Instead, with a bit of wriggling, you can just disconnect the indicator leads where they are plugged in behind the rear light unit and insert the extension there - no cutting and no new connectors sitting right where they're gonna get soaked.


Good luck!


Don't blame me if you break your pipe bender!!

24
Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / Tweaking suspension when fully-loaded
« on: 27 April 2019, 07:26:57 pm »
Hey all,


The little Yamaha manual is pretty good on describing where the suspension controls are and how to adjust them. But it says bugger-all about what adjustments you should be looking to make for different loads.


I don't usually bother adjusting the suspension at all as it's either just me (~80Kg) or me + light luggage or me + pillion for short trips and I've never felt it warranted messing with the set-up.


But I'm planning a long trip two-up fully loaded and I'm thinking that's gotta be worth a tweak on the rear pre-load at least (as that's where most of the load will be).


But I'm not sure what else if anything is likely to need adjusting.


Front pre-load - yeah, I guess so, to firm the front up a bit, especially under braking?


Front & rear compression - maybe? Especially on the front to firm it up under braking again?


Front & rear rebound - really don't know why that would be needed!


Any advice? Any recommendations for step-by-step guides?


Cheers,
Dave

25
Is it a digital limit? Like a rock-solid 6,000 exactly, like it's an electronic thing that's going on?


Or is it around about 6,000-ish with some wandering up and down?


The former would suggest something digital/electronic whereas the latter something else.


Electric:
The bike uses the wasted spark system, so if one spark plug is failing it could take out two cylinders, giving a 50%+ drop in power?? I've found in the past that replacing the plugs can be a quick and relatively cheap way to fault-find.
Otherwise, I'd say it's more likely to be the ICU then the R/R??


Non-electric:
Have you checked your fuel line isn't crimped?
EXUP closing at 6k for some reason?


Don't know really - just thinking out loud. Good luck!

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