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Messages - Arfa
27
« on: 30 May 2020, 03:10:37 pm »
Do note Fowler's will sell you a genuine Box eye fairing fully painted for £240. Though I think they've only a few colours still available.
The FoxEye fairing is only about £220 new, fully painted, and note it is shared with the FZS1000, ditto headlight cluster.
28
« on: 18 May 2020, 10:39:10 pm »
Leave that spark plug tool from the FZ6 tool kit alone! The plugs on this bike are a right bitch to get to, and that tool is the best designed tool to get them out with such constrained access. You'll be cursing later on if you bodge it for another use.
Just guy buy a couple of extra sockets of the sizes you're missing to go with your current socket set.
29
« on: 11 May 2020, 06:30:56 pm »
Heard rumour that an insurer increases IAM premiums on the assumption that riders do more miles per year 
I can certainly believe an IAM rider will put in more miles. But I would have also expected that to be taken into account by your declared mileage per year... FWIW I actually had Adrian Flux want me to declare my cars mileage when I renewed the policy this year, wondering if they'll be double checking next year. However, it's easily available data on past MOT history... I can see insurers possible worried about an IAM riders increased risk from volunteering to do Observing duties. Something many good riders are often approached to do post test. And partly why Surety gives all riders class 1 business use, as they consider IAM Observer requires this.
30
« on: 11 May 2020, 02:12:20 pm »
But what is the total cost for being IAM
Initial course costs £150, but 10% vouchers are two-a-penny, and it is often down to £100 for those at sign up at various shows. Yearly costs are about £45 (£30 ish to IAM HQ, £15 to local group). So yeah, do your sums to see if the saving outway the costs. But obviously you get a lot of other stuff too: skills, a social scene, ride outs, other discounts etc. And, as has been said, they're not always cheaper on insurance for everyone. For me they have been for last 4 years odd, but I know others in my same group who didn't find them cheaper.
31
« on: 11 May 2020, 12:01:42 pm »
Get yourself through the IAM test, then you case use IAM Surety insurance (underwritten by Cornmarket) which is can be very cheap. Just insured my FZ6 for £230, fully comp, class 1 business use, £2.5k value, 10k yearly mileage, £250 excess, I'm living in crime infested East London, have a past prang, 7 years NC and aged 41. I had TPFT with them on my old FZS600 for several years prior at arond the £150 mark too.
All the comparison sites couldn't come close, not even MCE with stupid excesses as nearly much as the bike's worth...
YMMV though, got other mates in my local IAM group who couldn't get insured with them, or couldn't get good prices, namely people within M25 with high values GS's or sports bikes.
32
« on: 10 May 2020, 07:08:49 pm »
Sadly I think it's the big cycling lobby groups that will win out here. They'll plough more money into cycling infrastructure, squeezing roads to fit more cycle lanes, and sticking in more rental bike stands etc. I've seen little that fills me with confidence that motorcycling will be taken seriously as method to get folk to/from work in isolation. All the headlines are boasting £2bln to support walking and cycling initiatives, but not a single mentions of scooters or motorcycles. In London, few can live close enough to the centre to realistically commute by push bike. I'm in zone 5, I have a 13 mile ride to London Bridge, my wife has 15 mile ride to Charing Cross hospital, no chance either of us can cycle that distance twice daily, all weathers after a long day working and manage kids morning/evening! I have a solution. You'll be able to use the cycle lanes. You'll find getting to and from work a breeze, and though there's an inital outley, well compared to a fossil fueled motorcycle it'll be cheap as chips to run.
Oh, yeah, its electric. 
£1800 quids though. Enough to buy a very reasonable Fazer... I know what I'd prefer to ride for my 25 mile round trip commute I do year round in all weathers, whilst lugging security, work laptop, change of clothes etc. If it works for your commute, fair enough.
33
« on: 09 May 2020, 09:50:53 pm »
Sadly I think it's the big cycling lobby groups that will win out here. They'll plough more money into cycling infrastructure, squeezing roads to fit more cycle lanes, and sticking in more rental bike stands etc. I've seen little that fills me with confidence that motorcycling will be taken seriously as method to get folk to/from work in isolation. All the headlines are boasting £2bln to support walking and cycling initiatives, but not a single mentions of scooters or motorcycles. In London, few can live close enough to the centre to realistically commute by push bike. I'm in zone 5, I have a 13 mile ride to London Bridge, my wife has 15 mile ride to Charing Cross hospital, no chance either of us can cycle that distance twice daily, all weathers after a long day working and manage kids morning/evening!
35
« on: 30 January 2020, 01:46:55 pm »
Hmm £1100, I'd be really bargaining him down. Being sat stationary for 7 years, it's likely to have many niggles that'll need a very thorough service to sort out. TBH, I'd be looking at a later 2002-2003 model (which are better spec'd) that has been used fairly regularly. Check out this 2003 model on ebay, £1500 from a dealer with 28K on it. Mot history, shows it had a few hundred or thousand miles put on it each year. Mentions a binding back brake, so that'd prob need swapping. Also mention corrosion - probably the downpipes and that rear brake caliper strut. But at least it'll have 3 months warranty on it.... Another similar one here, 2002, 29k on it, £1450. Which again has had a thou miles put on it most years. Extend your budget to £1.5k, get a later model, pick one that been maintained and used regularly, it'll be a much safer bet.
36
« on: 28 January 2020, 01:46:02 pm »
As others have mentioned - check that front sprocket nut. With just 20k on it, it may well still have original chain/sprockets. Check if it's been swapped for thicker nut, check it hasn't fallen off in past and now bodged/welded up onto drive shaft. Anything suspect here and just walk away from the bike - it won't be worth it. Even if all good, if it's original chain you'll likely need to replace that before it hits 30k (£160 ish parts & labour)
Shock will likely be original and in need of replacement soon (budget £100-150 to refurb, or £300 for new Hagon shock).
Check rear caliper - often gets clogged up. Many swap it for FZS1000 blue spot caliper which is more reliable (budget £60-100 parts)
Check downpipes as bottom underneath. All original ones rust through - even my much later 2003 models wa full of holes by 20k odd (budget £200 parts + labour. Couldbe tricky job if studs on engine snap).
Check if brake lines are still orginal rubber ones - if so, budget on replacing with braided lines at this age (£80 parts). Brake fluid is probably long overdue a change anyway.
As with any old bike, check everything else, all lights and electrics work, kill switch/side stand cuts out engine. Check for leaking oil on fork seals (£100-150 job). Check oil has no cream goo in it (sight glass on bottom right of engine), or smoke from oil filler cap when rev'd gently - that'll be screwed engine, so walk away. Check all big fat water hoses aren't cracked/split with age - there's no cheap aftermarket silicone hoses available, genuine hoses are about £20-30 each.
As it's been sat for whilte, check it rev's well, carbs may need a clean (lots of labour). Check age on tyres (google how to read tyre manufacture date), they could be brittle death traps by now, just budget on £200-250 to replace immediately. Check there's no rust inside the tank. See when coolent was last changed - it could need a thorough flush through now (1h labour).
TBH if you're mate actually going to properly service the bike, or just shove it through an MOT alone? If only the latter, I'd plan on taking it straight to a decent garage who will do a thorough job changing all fluids/filters etc (budget £200-300).
37
« on: 27 January 2020, 07:21:22 pm »
I seem to remember reading that text 2002 Foxeye generator puts out more power than the Boxeye one?
Looks like it, well spotted.
Yep, probably because it has both headlights on when dipped by default. Hence no headlight mod required, and obviously the greater power drain as standard required the bigger alternator. Eitherway, my old Fazer was regularly used with air horn, heated gloves, Cree LED lights, satnav and a usb socket for a fairing mounted camera. Occasionally at low revs the USB socket would cut out due to voltage drop, but no other hassles.
38
« on: 16 January 2020, 07:57:28 pm »
Maybe consider swapping on a new Fairing: https://www.fowlersparts.co.uk/parts/view/5RT2835G00P1£240 genuine, new and comes painted. It'll only be the lack of decals that'll give things away. Would definitely make it a lot easier to sell, might even sell for more than you'd get otherwise. I recently flogged a bike similar with double the mileage for £1150, and that I had put new fairing on after a wee mishap. How much life is left in chain/sprocket? Front sprocket & drive shaft good? Got replacement nut on the front? Fork seals good? Regularly serviced? Brake calipers squeaky clean and moving freely (especially the rear)? - these are the questions you should expect, if any of this needs attention, expect to be knocked down on price.
39
« on: 10 January 2020, 04:32:06 pm »
Is this the sort of lowering kit you're looking at? No dog bones on the FZ6 (unlike say the FZS600), so shortening shock like this is your option. I fitted one of these MFW kits on my wife's CBF500 a while ago. It appears this FZ6 kit is pretty much same deal and same setup. And just like agricola mentioned, everything on our CBF was seized up like a bitch. Though that CBF had been run year round as commuter hack for 10 years with no rear hugger... Tried everything, freeze spray, flame, impact drill / hammer, the lot. In end had to squeeze a hack saw blade into hinge to saw it off... As the FZ6 has a hugger as standard, I'm surprised it also got that bad... Be careful on compressing the spring, if it pings out you'll have someones eye out! There are proper tools for this job, bit brave trusting cable ties... :-) I took our CBF shock to AllBikeEngineering (near Blackwall Tunnel), who serviced it, re-gassed it, put new piston rod in and swapped on the MFW end piece for me (about £200 ish if I recall). Then obviously refitted with all new bolts, bearing, bushes etc. If I recall some of the original bearing parts aren't reused with the MFW link though. Either way, it's held up fine for several years hence, my short arse wife is happy. Note we did also have to push front forks through yoke to match drop on rear. Then found bike stood way too upright on side stand, so that needed to be chopped down a re-welded (£50 job by local garage). Full write up on my blog if you fancy reading more.
40
« on: 15 November 2019, 11:42:37 pm »
Can agree with all Agricola says. Had my FZ6 S2 just over a year now. Had a '03 FZS600 for about 6 years prior to that. Put a full write up on differences on my blog here:- https://www.beginnerbiker.com/2018/12/yamaha-faze-off-2003-fzs600-vs-2007-fz6-s2Since that post, I've improved the heavy clutch a little by swapping on a MT07 lower clutch arm (sub £20 simple mod). Done headlight mod so both light up and popped on a Puig double bubble screen. I'm definitely more used to the bike now and can fling it around with more confidence than it initially inspired. Though still prefer the nimbleness of the old FZS600. Done a track day on the FZ6, but it pissed down, so it was a bit of a tip-toe session. Done a few trips up to Wales and a mini tour of Ardennes on it, where it was grand. Had no mechanical hassles, just usual service stuff: oil, filters, tyres, pads, braided lines, battery, etc. Key things I still really miss: The huge 230+ mile tank range of the FZS600 (2002-2003 models only) Lack of suspension adjustment - even the rear pre-load is a bitch to tweak. Lack of under seat storage (due to exhausts in the way). There's definitely stuff on the FZ6 S2 engineered better, the Alu frame, swingarm, stainless pipes from stock etc. Corrosion wise, mine's an '07 model with 20k on it and holding up well. Only the front coolant overflow tank and brackets on front of engine is showing signs of corrosion. The FZ6 S2 still is a lot of bike for the money they go for. It's not a million miles from the FZS600, but definitely some differences.
41
« on: 29 August 2019, 08:33:33 pm »
Yep, Givi Monokey is best option. Decent quality and plenty about. Kappa and Shad also do boxes that fit the Givi Monolock plates. But the Monolock stuff is only rated for a measily 3Kg. Monokey is rated at 10Kg (but you can often go more). You'll need: Arms: 351FZ Plate: M5 Box: Any old Monokey one. Arms don't turn up so often, and are often missing random bolts, spacers etc. Buy new for about £65: ( https://www.motorcycleplanet.co.uk/products/498-givi-351fz-top-box-rack-for-yamaha-fz6-s2-fz6-600-s2-fazer/) The M5 plate is common to many, many bikes, so more likely to come up second hand. Note it comes with some bolts of it's own to bolt to arms. £37 new if needed. As for boxes, there's tonnes about second hand on ebay. From mini ones to huge 52ltr ones. Replacement locks/keys are cheap to get hold of if needed. Best plan: Look out for second hand plate with bolts going cheap. If not just get plate and arms new. Once fitted, see what boxes are going cheap local to you, which you can pick up.
42
« on: 26 August 2019, 10:09:09 pm »
Yep, hi-viz - only needs to be carried with you (small fine if not), but must be worn if broken down on side of big motorway (huge fine if not).
Bulbs - not mandatory, but you can be stopped from progressing further if you've a blown bulb.
Just did a quick stint in Belgium and France around Ardennes, things I found useful:
Starling debit card - download app and get signed up. It's a card you pre-load (no credit check unless you want their overdraft facility). Best exchange rates and zero fees. Can be used to pull euro cash out at ATM's too. Only toll booths didn't like it (no idea why!). For pay at pump fuel, make sure you've enough loaded for the €120 pre-auth otherwise you'll be declined. Otherwise, dead handy.
You're not allowed to have speed cam locations on your SatNav, however my Garmin did flag up 'dangerous roads' - stretches where cameras are known to be located. Note also, most cams over there are quite discreet, small plain grey boxes hidden on road side etc.
Finally, on your way home give yourself plenty of time to get through our shitty UK border control in Calais. Also, try to avoid coming home on a weekend when the M20 is shut...
44
« on: 10 August 2019, 06:48:48 pm »
Clearing out my bits box and found two sets of clutch springs. These are all used, but only briefly whilst I was trying to find a good combination of plates and springs that worked well without any slip or grab.
Set of 6 EBC heavy duty springs. Really heavy, will need a really strong left hand. I also found they caused terrible clutch grab when the engine is hot, unable to find neutral and bike creeping forward and needing a quick hand on kill switch.
Set of 6 genuine Yamaha springs, I bought new from Fowlers and used for about a month or two, much better, but I found they gave slight slight slip when pushing really hard.
In the end, I actually reverted to the original springs that came on the bike from new and were ancient by now, but which behaved much better!
Nonetheless, I don't want any money for them, happy to give to both sets to someone having clutch hassle who wants to experiment a bit. Pick up from Central London or Dagenham, East London. Otherwise, I can post them if you cover postage.
45
« on: 09 August 2019, 07:13:20 pm »
Nice report.
Interesting how it compares to my FZS600 2003 I had from Sept 2012 - Jan 2019, came with 13k, left me with 65k ish, averaging 8k odd a year. Many of which was low speed commuting into London, year round, whatever weather, but also several trips to Wales and few track days.
Speedo drive - mine fell to bits when changing front tyre once ~20k odd.
Sprocket carrier bearing - likewise, mine collapsed at ~30-40k odd. Front wheel bearing needing replacing ~55k.
No probs with plugs, just changed every 2-3 years with standard NGK ones.
One cap did crumble in 2017, replaced lot with NGK caps.
No probs with choke.
Got through few clutch cables, and had to swap all clutch plates at about 50k odd, due to slipping (but faffed about with EBC springs/plates which were totally off on spec and caused tonnes of sticking - avoid, go genuine).
Downpipes rusted through tonnes of holes in 4-into-1 at about 20k - went for a Motad stainless replacement.
Did refresh coolant couple of times. Had to replace water cap, as it failed to retain pressure, and I had an o-ring leak on thermostat.
Replaced battery once, after some starting troubles one winter.
Stock rear caliper seized up earlier on around 20k, replaced with FZS1000 blue spot one (and Hel lines all round). They were fine otherwise
Rear disc wore down and got lipped around 50-55k. Replaced with Brembo, but original would not come of rear wheel - ended up buying a second hand wheel!
Fork seals failed once around 35k ish, oil that came out was nasty...
My engine used almost no oil, barely one top up between services, always performed great.
TBH, everything else I had to fix on mine was repairs following numerous mishaps (several fairings, brackets, infills, one light cluster, one replacement clocks, one less bashed fuel tank, countless crash bars and mirrors... ;-)
46
« on: 26 July 2019, 08:18:35 pm »
I sold my old 2003 one for £1150 earlier this year. It had 64k ish on it, a little drop damage, but brand new fairing & decals. But, it was immaculately serviced, Hel braided lines front back, recent new genuine clutch, uprated FZS1000 rear brake caliper, recent Brembo rear disc, Hagon shock, posher comfort seat, Givi Rack (no box), double bubble screen, huggers, year old chain/sprocket and 6 month old tyres with loads of life in them. I was also in London and just before ULEZ charge hit.
Don't expect much value from accessories. Big ticket service items sorted out are plus points. £1000 may be cutting yourself short, £1500 maybe achievable if the right person wants it. I'd expect some haggling down to £1250 ish.
47
« on: 26 June 2019, 10:59:56 pm »
Used to regularly read their website fairly often to catch up on bike news, but they pissed me off when they installed the adblock blocker script. Now you're forced to load up a tonnes of huge intrusive ads that cover everything and cause my old laptop to grind to a halt. So just dunna bother with it anymore, no big loss.
48
« on: 15 April 2019, 04:22:01 pm »
Sometimes you get by with a big rubbery garden glove, to gain you enough purchase on it to unscrew by hand. But, as with many jobs things are much easier if you've got the right tools for the job. ;-)
49
« on: 10 April 2019, 10:09:57 pm »
Another shout for the Pragmasis chains. Been using a 2m and 1.5m 16mm chains for my Fazer and my wife's CBF. Both pretty hefty, but no hassle to lug around in the bottom of a top box (I wouldn't recommend carrying it around without a top box). No hassles going through back wheel of either bike. The 2m one gives you a bit more flexibility to stretch round awkward stuff, but 90% of time it's a bit excessive length wise TBH. 1.5m is fine in most cases.
Also to note, the Pragmasis Torc ground anchor can snuggly accept both 16mm chains through it.
And can't moan about the Squire padlocks either. I did have one seize up, but Squire were helpful with hints to free it and then replaced it promptly on warranty with no fuss.
50
« on: 04 April 2019, 07:45:49 pm »
TBF the last set of Hel hoses only cost me £75 at the MCN show, front & back. If you hunt around for a discount code, you can probably get a similar price anytime.
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