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Messages - bandit
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51
« on: 10 July 2019, 05:22:43 pm »
Do you have a meter? If so check for 12v on the following on same 6 way 5 pin plug.Switch Ignition on and check for 12v on the Brown/red and the brown/blue by putting the probe into the back of the connector
If you get 12v on both of those then put the probe on the blue and turn the light switch on right handlebar to park that should supply 12v to the blue wire, now check the Blue/red also as it gets its 12v from the Blue/red via the ignition switch
If you get 12v on the Brown/red and Brown/Blue but not on the Blue or Blue/red the problem is in the light switch.
Right..
So with the ignition on the Brown/Red on the 5 pin switch has power, as does the Brown/Blue wire (which is on the 2 pin block??)
The Blue wire (which has small green spots on as well) does not have power with the ignition switch or the light switch in any position.
Blue/Red gets 12v in park position (but no other)So yes get 12v from Brown/Red and Brown/Blue (with the ignition on) , nothing from the Blue in any position and only with the key in park from Blue/Red.
So does that mean there is a fault in the light switch? Can someone confirm that the blue has green spots on? There is no plain blue but all the others have stripes on them. Also the Brown/Blue being on the 2 pin rather than the 5 pin?
I think we are making progress  Thanks all
52
« on: 10 July 2019, 01:29:07 pm »
Yes you can just undo the banjo but you will need to remove the brake reservoir cap first to relieve the vacuum, don't get any fluid on paintwork if you do wash off with water immediately. While the caliper is off carefully loosen off the two bleed nipples & lightly re-tighten ready for bleeding the caliper later.
53
« on: 10 July 2019, 11:39:43 am »
Yes new seals,brake cleaner possibly new pistons if badly corroded & can't be cleaned some red rubber grease for reassembly,new brake fluid. Have you tried just cleaning it, remove pads,pump pistons out a bit on one side by holding the other side in then do the same for the other side, spray pistons with brake cleaner or use meth spirit with a small toothbrush/brush allow to dry, then apply red rubber grease around pistons push them in, pump them out a bit & so on & see if they move easier. Assembly brake pads in caliper remember to apply copper anti seize grease or better still some Ceratec to back of pads.
54
« on: 08 July 2019, 09:21:20 pm »
You may have already done so, have you checked the battery terminals are tight/clean & earth to frame.
55
« on: 01 July 2019, 11:21:27 am »
Similar issues have been posted before, check electrical connectors under tank & also wiring/connections clocks & headlight area.
56
« on: 24 June 2019, 11:56:04 pm »
If you can get a hacksaw blade in between the pads cut a piece out of pin in the middle remove the pin (non head side) & pads, then get a set of grips on the pin & try to remove.
57
« on: 24 June 2019, 11:10:51 pm »
Off the top of my head could you push the pistons into the caliper to give a space in between the pads & get a pair of grips on the pin & turn it to remove.
Or use a slightly larger star bit tap with a hammer into head or cut a slot into head & use a large flat screwdriver or on the face of the pin using a small chisel/screwdriver on the edge tap at a angle anti-clockwise with a hammer on the screwdriver handle.
There's nothing wrong with using copper grease (have done for years) but the modern alternative with vehicles with A.B.S is to use ceramic lube instead which doesn't contain metal which messes with sensors, Ceratec is the name available from Euro's or Carparts4Less.
58
« on: 24 June 2019, 10:32:53 am »
Thanks guys I did order a new cable yesterday hoping it might be that simple so I'll give it a go once it arrives . It feels no different with the cover removed from the bike
With no change with cover removed than as others have said cable or the mechanism in the cover binding.
59
« on: 23 June 2019, 10:45:08 pm »
I just had another look there and as you are looking in the end of the swing arm you can see top and bottom on the outher side of each leg where the the casting tabs have rubbed over the years from been taking in and out so it must be in right!
Just to confirm that you do have them the right way.
60
« on: 08 June 2019, 10:03:59 am »
61
« on: 08 June 2019, 09:43:59 am »
I'm sure they do but I believe the internals i.e the springs & spacer tubes are different sizes to later ones,so not just a case of changing the caps.
62
« on: 07 June 2019, 07:53:47 pm »
redmanden, if you want to keep it looking std look then your first Delkevic pipes option in my opinion looks the best & also has removable baffle if you wanna have it a bit more nicer sound, but remember to balance your carbs after fitting.
63
« on: 22 May 2019, 10:28:15 am »
No link pipes, they are not Motad, as Jules-C says my guess would be Sandybikes or old style Blackwidow when previously sold as one piece, as these have clearly be designed to fit the original endcan/linkpipe to original downpipes. They also might be Lextek as they look the same as. https://www.lextekproducts.com/DWNPP043G
64
« on: 13 May 2019, 07:51:02 pm »
It’ll have been an optional extra from new I’m guessing
You are correct Freck no bikes had alarms fitted as standard was available as a optional extra.
65
« on: 11 May 2019, 11:43:53 pm »
When you adjusted the screw for 3 & 4 could you get 4 to match 3, if so then turn the middle screw to try & match 1 & 2 & 3 & 4. Here is a write up on balancing & throttle position sensor settings. Also recheck the throttle position sensor settings after balancing also. http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php?topic=91.0
66
« on: 11 May 2019, 09:16:46 pm »
I agree a light coat of multi purpose grease should be fine on the slider bit.
67
« on: 11 May 2019, 09:09:50 pm »
68
« on: 11 May 2019, 08:53:20 pm »
Use the download section,click on Downloads top left, download FZS600 workshop manual. It's in the carburetor section, they are under each carb facing up outside the float bowls.
69
« on: 07 May 2019, 12:53:00 pm »
Yes it does look like the OEM one when looked at that way round.
I have another question. Would people remove the grease that the new chain is coated in, I plan on using gear oil as my lube regime as spray wax is sticky and attracts grit and that is just like what is on the new chain.
Im thinking a few wipes over with a paraffin coated rag and not a massive scrub in a bucket of paraffin - although I could do that before it gos on the bike.
If you want to clean it off before it will be easier to do before you put it on as you can flex the links, I have never used chain wax only lube on O- ring chains & oil on standard chains when chain wax/ lube didn't exist & I can tell you grit sticks to oil & you have to apply more often than chain lube as it flings off more so. Paraffin soaked rag would be fine.
70
« on: 06 May 2019, 08:53:56 pm »
The rear sprocket is handed but 95% sure that the milled face faces out and the smooth face faces in to the wheel but just wanted to double check.Photos here
I think it's top pick with JT stamped on it faces out.
71
« on: 05 May 2019, 07:02:14 pm »
Didn't see him emptying the reservoir so fair comment on that Bandit.
Didn't make myself very clear looking at the rest of your comment though as, after the first top up of the reservoir, I then bleed the system exactly the same way that he does.
I don't just top up the reservoir and then do nothing else.
That's not bleeding the brakes 
No worries Dynspud, I didn't think for one moment you just topped up the res when flushing for new fluid. Bleeding= Removal of air which causes spongy brakes. Flushing= Changing fluid which is worn out/ contaminated which causes lever/excessive brake pedal travel which may cause brake fade when the fluid gets hot.
72
« on: 05 May 2019, 02:11:37 pm »
I have to comment that I think adding new fluid into the existing fluid in the reservoir is not best practice.
You are effectively contaminating the new stuff with the old stuff that is still in there.
I always syphon out as much of the old fluid from the reservoir as I can, before topping up with new fluid for the first time, to avoid contaminating it as much as possible.
You clearly didn't watch the link I posted, which shows the fluid being removed from the res then being topped up before opening the bleed screws & then expelling old from the calipers/ pipework so I really don't see your point of your post which both comments you make equal the same outcome if your worried about contaminating new fluid, as old will still be in system whether you empty the res or not? as the idea is flushing old out of system which is a darker colour until fresh is visible in the tubing. 
73
« on: 04 May 2019, 10:52:32 pm »
As already said bleed the brakes but if you don't know how old the brake fluid is change it all & re-bleed, when the old fluid needs changing you may get brake fade & the pedal travel increases, I have had this happen in a emergency stop situation best to get it sorted asap.
It is 18 years old and I have no records to speak of re servicing so a rear bleed and fluid replacement it is I think.
cheers
My bike is in it's 21st year (98) had from new with low mileage never changed the fluid until the pedal travel increased so possible same cause, worn out brake fluid, if you haven't done before look here. Clear tubing is better than black.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J5nuh39VAu8
Thanks for the link. I have done it before but the clamp on the rear foot pedal to create a lever, ever seen that and will use it in the future!
That's a good idea with the clamp for those with the rear res on the other side but not required on the Fazer anyway hope changing the fluid sorts your brake problem. If your looking for DOT 4 brake fluid 500ml should be plenty Carparts4Less have Pagid brand on offer this weekend with code & delivery is free.
74
« on: 02 May 2019, 08:39:30 pm »
Bet you can't wait to get started.
75
« on: 02 May 2019, 07:25:00 pm »
Life is just so much easier when you use chain lube! 
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