fazer bearing change

[stonedpillock]

Greetings
My gen 1 is coming up to 28000miles. I'm about to treat her to a new rear shock thinking about  a nitron road shock at £354. Anyone tried one? Thought about r6 shock but not keen on buying 2nd hand shock. What sort of mileage should i change wheel bearings.They feel ok when wheels out of bike no "notchyness" (is that a word?)    but off to scotland in May from somerset so think I will do them anyway. Also some play in rear linkage bearrings so will do those as well. Are there any other suppliers other than yamaha for linkage bearings?? I've found wheel bearing kits on wemoto but not linkage bearings. May do headrace while I'm at it. Any tips would be helpful. Apart from let someone else do it. I never take the easy option  DIY is best

[tex]

 
Hi,
    If you speak to like, his r6 shocks are nearly new, a good buy .
 
                 Tex

[devilsyam]

he means me 



clean as you like im in bristol so can fit it too if ya like

[Falcon 269]

Another vote for Luke's R6 shock option.  He supplies virtually zero mileage shock 'cos he's in bed with virtually R6 race team in the country.  Well, not literally you understand ...

The R6 shock is more adjustable than the basic Nitron unit and about 2/3 the price.  I've been impressed with the brief test ride I've had since fitting one to my Fazer.  Just got to shake off this bloody flu bug to get some more mileage under the wheels this weekend, I hope.

[bikerboys]

devilsyam you got a
 pm

[ghostbiker]

I have nitron, although i have the top spec one. brought the middle one and got a free upgrade to top spec affter a slight problem.
Love the nitron and highly recomend them.

But if it was a choice between the lowest spec nitron or the run in milage R6 shock mod i would go R6 mod and spend the saving on Ivans or fork springs / Ktec rework if your feeling flush.

[chitsu]

There are a few wheel & suspension bearing kits on eBay at fairly competitive prices.


But make sure that they are either Japanese or German manufactured & NOT chinese. 


The other thing to bear in mind when replacing the rear suspension bearings is you will need an internal bearing puller to remove the bearings in the swingarm. Also the L/H rear wheel bearing ideally requires one of these tools to remove it, however I have changed quite a few by cutting them in two with a dremel type tool (this bearing is a very large needle roller type bearing).   

[Fazerider]

Unless the wheel bearings have failed or have damaged the seals I'd leave them alone... changing them just on the basis of a tiny mileage like that is pointless, they should last another hundred thousand miles with ease.

[cable tie]

I have nitron, although i have the top spec one. brought the middle one and got a free upgrade to top spec affter a slight problem.
Love the nitron and highly recomend them.

But if it was a choice between the lowest spec nitron or the run in milage R6 shock mod i would go R6 mod and spend the saving on Ivans or fork springs / Ktec rework if your feeling flush.

 
 
Ive done the nitron route various times on many a bike due to the fact there a fraction of the cost of ohlins, nitron's quality is very good and you can ring nitron and ask any advise and tell em what spec and they will build it, on one occasion i had lost some seals from a nitron shock i gave em a call and they sent some FOC, however taking into account the feedback luke (devilsyam) has recieved on his kits id be very tempted to go that route and spend whats left over elsewhere, now regarding your linkage bearings im sure your fully aware as norm the rear lingage has slight play ! so dont be suprised if you change the bearings and than find you still have slight play.
 
Dave 

[PieEater]

I have nitron, although i have the top spec one. brought the middle one and got a free upgrade to top spec affter a slight problem.
Love the nitron and highly recomend them.

But if it was a choice between the lowest spec nitron or the run in milage R6 shock mod i would go R6 mod and spend the saving on Ivans or fork springs / Ktec rework if your feeling flush.

 
 
Ive done the nitron route various times on many a bike due to the fact there a fraction of the cost of ohlins, nitron's quality is very good and you can ring nitron and ask any advise and tell em what spec and they will build it, on one occasion i had lost some seals from a nitron shock i gave em a call and they sent some FOC, however taking into account the feedback luke (devilsyam) has recieved on his kits id be very tempted to go that route and spend whats left over elsewhere, now regarding your linkage bearings im sure your fully aware as norm the rear lingage has slight play ! so dont be suprised if you change the bearings and than find you still have slight play.
 
Dave 

With regards to suspension I have the mid range Nitron ("Track" -  I think) quality kit, good company to deal with, very happy with the performance. Though if Luke had been doing his kits at the time I probably would have gone that route as the performance would probably be similar but the savings would have contributed very nicely towards the cost of getting the bike Ivanised.
 
With regrads to the bearings, I'd leave well enough alone. Play in the linkage bearings is normal and those that have sought to eliminate it have spent time, effort and money with very little to show in the way of results. When I suggested to my MOT tester that I might change the wheel bearings as a matter of course he looked at me like I was daft and said I'd be wasting my time as there was plenty of life left in them (30,000).
 
If you're going to replace your shock it would probably be worth taking the swing-arm out and re-packing the bearings with grease as well as re-greasing all the linkage bushes & bearings, but that's about it. I beleive if you tighten the linkage bolts with the bike on the side stand it can help eliminate some of the play.

[ghostbiker]

Repack and leave well alone.

Wast of time messing with them if they are ok anyway

[pitternator]

TBH I had a wheel bearing failure on my first gen1 ( 2001 model) which I had from new, and had no abuse. Replacement bearings went in at about 18k miles, and were still perfect when I sold it at 37000 miles. My current gen1 bought at 8k miles, now has 35k miles and all bearings are sweet. I alway sclean spindles, and repack with grease at each tyre change. Suspension linkages ar eeasy to remove, clean and repack every year. So far I have had no issues.
 
I put the bearing failure on my first bike down to  a faulty batch .   

[VNA - BMW Wank]

Rear wheel bearings in mine failed at about 18,000 miles.

They might do 10,000 miles, or they might do 100,000 miles, who knows.

Just don't put pressure washers anyway near bearings.

[devilsyam]

if the lower pivot knucke bearings are buggered i'd just buy another knuckle off ebay 30 quid paid for last un loads less hassle

[tommyteeman]

got a nitron road shock, think its the base/cheapest model, cant fault it but can only compare it to the original and not a higher spec jobbie.
Front wheel bearing collapsed at @18000, simple to replace, rears were feeling a bit "gritty" at 23000 so renewed em.