Best replacement caliper.....

[2old2boogie]

 ....for the rear brake of a FZS 600 '98? I have been told that a R1 will fit with some filing of the mounts, and a TRX will fit with it's carrier and torque arm. So what is the best brake to fit?
 

[noggythenog]

Apparently the fazer thou blue spot is the easiest to fit.but hardly any come up.


If you're after a trx caliper, "Caretaker" has one for sale that he never got round to fitting.


Hope that helps


Cheers


Fras

[kebab19]

Noggy is correct, Fazer Bluespot rears are rare and £££ but fit onto the standard rear mounting plate with a bit of filing, the early R1 bluespot rear DOES NOT & no-one knows if the XJR1300 bluespot rear fits or not.

The alternative involves swapping over to the TRX850 rear mounting plate. You also need a replacement torque arm and preferably the donor bike's brake hose as they are usually a bit longer. But strictly speaking, you don't have to have a matching TRX850 rear caliper. Quite a few mid-late 1990's Yams with underslung calipers also fit, such as YZF750 and YZF1000 Thunderace. For example, I have a Thunderace rear caliper shown below fitted to my own (grotty but £15 complete with decent pads).

Don't be put off by the alternatives to bluespots, all the above calipers (FZS1000, TRX & YZFs) share 43mm diameter pistons compared to the original FZS600's 38mm pistons so offer superior feel & stopping power.

[darrsi]

Do you really need or want all that stopping power on the rear?

[2old2boogie]

Good point, no I don't, not on the rear brake. But I do need a working rear brake, I have been faffing about with 2 dodgy Fazer calipers trying to make 1 useable one. And the summer is fast disappearing.
Thanks for the expert advice, greatly appreciated. 

[kebab19]

Darrsi, no and yes respectively, one of the first things I did when I went back to the 600 was to search for a replacement rear caliper. It's also the sensitivity of these calipers that is important; I always felt like the standard rear setup had wooden brake pads & I could not sense when it was about to lock up. And that was despite still-moving pistons. The 43mm piston rear calipers are surprisingly easy to control.
For the cost of new replacement Yamaha seals you can have an alternative caliper, so for me it was mandatory not optional. And if you don't observe a very strict cleaning regime a couple of times per year, the original caliper seizes up.... whereas I can be a lot lazier & overhaul mine every 18 months or so

[peteski]

I've been running with a bluespot from the 1000 for around five years. It offers no noticeable breaking power over a well maintained std one but is much better made and easier to maintain. I've only needed to service it a couple of times since fitted, normally during a pad change whereas with the standard it was a yearly job.

[darrsi]

Darrsi, no and yes respectively, one of the first things I did when I went back to the 600 was to search for a replacement rear caliper. It's also the sensitivity of these calipers that is important; I always felt like the standard rear setup had wooden brake pads & I could not sense when it was about to lock up. And that was despite still-moving pistons. The 43mm piston rear calipers are surprisingly easy to control.
For the cost of new replacement Yamaha seals you can have an alternative caliper, so for me it was mandatory not optional. And if you don't observe a very strict cleaning regime a couple of times per year, the original caliper seizes up.... whereas I can be a lot lazier & overhaul mine every 18 months or so

I give my rear caliper a good toothbrushing with brake cleaner, then regrease the pistons at least 3 times a year, just for the sake of it, but it's a quick enough job, you're only looking at 30 minutes per go.
Seems to keep it in good nick though so it's obviously worth doing anyway.

[kebab19]

Darrsi,
As the complaints about standard rear calipers are rife (and have been for the six years I have frequented this site) I would infer that your enthusiastic cleaning efforts place you in the minority  I suspect that most people aren't as keen as you to tackle their rear calipers quite so often, with predictable results. 

[darrsi]

Darrsi,
As the complaints about standard rear calipers are rife (and have been for the six years I have frequented this site) I would infer that your enthusiastic cleaning efforts place you in the minority  I suspect that most people aren't as keen as you to tackle their rear calipers quite so often, with predictable results.

Yeah, i'm hearing you loud and clear 


Personally speaking it's also why i avoid organic pads as well, the dust they create is a major reason why calipers foc up, especially if they aren't looked after properly throughout the year.
I'd much prefer the odd 30 minutes here and there to keep things sweet rather than a major overhaul when they ultimately seize up through neglect.

[2old2boogie]

 
Just an update to say I've ordered from Ebay a TRX Caliper and torque arm, from the pics on the posting it looks like the carrier is included. Thanks again for pointing me in the right direction. I'll keep you posted.

[Timbollew]

Didn't even realise the rear caliper was dodgy. God knows when mine was last done. Gonna strip it when I do my front pads. What do u recommend? Strip, clean with brake cleaner, grease back of pads and pistons with copper grease, rebuild?

[Dead Eye]

Depends on what exactly is wrong with it...

If the pistons are still moving then just a clean up with the some brake cleaner and some grease on the pads should be fine. If the pistons are stuck then its probably a pistons out, new seals and rebuild. Its a bit fiddly but its not that bad a job to do - had to do it myself a few months back. If you need to get the pistons out and you don't have compressed air to hand, keep the brake line attached and use a clamp to hold one in and pump the other out. Clean up that side, then refit and reverse to do the other side, worked for me

[darrsi]

Red rubber grease on pistons not copper grease.

[Dead Eye]

On the pistons yes, on the back of the pads I thought you could use either? Slapped a load of copper grease on the back of ChristoT's pads and it stopped the annoying squeak he had - though he was a bit generous with his application of it :P

[darrsi]

On the pistons yes, on the back of the pads I thought you could use either? Slapped a load of copper grease on the back of ChristoT's pads and it stopped the annoying squeak he had - though he was a bit generous with his application of it :P

Just a smidgen of copper grease on the back of pads, no need to go mad.
It's the copper that that stops the squealing, i don't think rubber grease would really do the same job.

[Dead Eye]

Yeah I agree, only needs a little bit but I wasn't the one applying it - before I could say anything it was smeared on and getting everywhere haha

[2old2boogie]

Latest on this TRX to FZS upgrade is that I've fitted the new (to me) caliper onto my Fazer, and after the normal ease and grease service I have got almost as far as bleeding. Yes almost is the operative word. The hose is too short! So sods law stops play.
I should have paid more attention to previous posts as I was advised to get the 'donor bike's hose as they're a bit longer'.
Nuff said, I'll order one.

[2old2boogie]

 
All done now. Got a HEL Braided hose from Wemoto. Fitted this morning, usual hassle priming but considering these things are usually a pain to bleed, it was quite straight forward really. I even got it done before the rain arrived.
Have only road-tested in the confines of my back garden so far, but it's fine, nice firm pedal. If the sun makes a re-appearance this afternoon I shall test it further.
Thanks for the helpful feedback. Really appreciated.