Dealer Servicing

[HarryHornby]

I do the basic servicing myself, check chain and adjust, change oil and filter, plugs, air filter, balance carbs but was thinking about treating the bike to a main dealer service before the winter sets in.  It's just coming up to 24000 miles, I've had it for 12000 of those miles and have only ever done the basic things and don't know what was done before I got it.
 
What extra things aparet from those mentioned above should I expect from a top of the range service for a bike that's done 24k miles at my local Yamaha dealer?  I'm thinking wheel bearings, suspension check, stearing head bearings, swing arm lube, brakes (obviously) any thing else?  Am I along the right lines?
 
Cheers in advance.

[DryRob]

Braided lines if you don't already have them
Fork oil/seals might need changing if not done before

If it's not broken I'd be tempted to leave it until summer so you can enjoy the improvements in some nice weather.

[unfazed]

 If you can do the basic servicing yourself then what you have mentioned is not beyond your ability.
 It can be a good idea to take a few pictures before you start to ensure all goes back together the same way. J.
 I take it you have a Haynes Manual and downloaded the Yamaha service manual from the downloads section.
 I would recommend you buy a good quality torque wrench, as the biggest issue I have come across over the years is home and shop mechanics over tightening and stripping nuts and bolts. I own 3 torque wrenches.
 They are: a 3/8 inch drive 2 to 20 NM, a 3/8 inch drive 10 to 50NM and a 1/2 inch drive 20 to 150NM. The third one covers most bolts and nuts on my car and a few on the bike. There are a lot of bolts that require between 5 and 50NM torque on a motorcycle and at least you will know they have been tightened properly. You would by the two 3/8 drive wrenches for what the dealer would cost. They will be your best investment in the tool box but always wind them back to zero when finished using them.
 Wheel bearings: Remove the callipers or push back the pads and check for movement by holding the wheel top and bottom and push pull in line with the axel, should not be any movement, Take wheels off and check for roughness in the bearing. Both checks are simple when changing tyres since you will have the wheels off.
 Steering head bearing: any clunks or clicks when breaking and is there any roughness, notching or tightness with front wheel off the ground turning the steering side to side. No, leave them alone. Yes dismantle and change them. Not inclined to give trouble unless you wheelie a lot.
 Are for fork seals, leaking: Yes change them, No, leave them alone.
 Since you have a centre stand it makes checking/greasing the swinging arm an easy but time consuming task. Remove rear wheel. Remove bottom bolt on shock. Remove caps covering swinging arm pivot bolt, undo pivot nut and pull out the bolt. Remove swinging arm. Don't lose the thrust covers at either end of the swinging arm and with swinging arm off remove the suspension arm/dog bones bolts.
 The most difficult time consuming job at the 24000 mile service is checking the valve clearance and since that is mostly a dismantling/reassembling job you should be capable of it.
If you are happy with the above then I could post method of checking the valve clearances and changing the coolant. Changing the coolant is nearly as easy as changing the oil.