Speedo sensor relacement

[seangee]

Any tips on how to get to this on a gen1 with the least amount of dis-assembly? Mr Haynes is singularly unhelpful - follow the wire, undo the bolt, slide it out. My dainty little paws won't even get close!!!

As an aside I got no error code when I disconnected it - is that normal? I'm pretty sure that it is my problem as the volt meter did not move from zero while turning the wheel with the ignition on.

[chitsu]

As regards removal/replacement of the speed sensor, I changed one when I had the swingarm off to re-grease all the bearings, probably not much help to you but it was a doddle to replace with the swingarm out of the way.
But firstly have you checked all the wiring thoroughly ? You should be getting 5V all the time from the clocks to the speedo sensor (Neither the O.E manual or the Haynes tell you this, I found out through trial & error!) I cant remember exactly which wire it is (will check when im back in the workshop) but I seem to recall it being a black/white wire ? (MAYBE!) if you havent got that 5V feed there follow it back to the clocks. Ive seen about 10 Fazer's/R1's & R6's with speedo faults and everyone of them has had an issue with the 2 multiplugs under the infil trim on the left hand side (by the side of the clocks) either completely corroded contacts or just water ingress.
The worst one I came across needed a new FULL wiring harness as it had too much water damage inside the loom to warrant it's repair (was cheaper to fit a 2nd hand loom).
And lastly you want get an error code for the speed sensor, I think there are only 3 or 4 (R1 & R6 have an error code for the fuel level indicator if I remember correctly) error codes on these which are for the T.P.S, Exup valve & the tilt switch (Yet again I will confirm this tonight when ive checked at the workshop).
 
I will post up which wires to check tonight after ive had a quick look at the C.F.D, chitsu.

[seangee]

Ta

I did originally suspect water when it became erratic after a storm. Everything appeared clean and dry and worked fine when I put it back together. A few weeks later it died altogether so I followed the Haynes troubleshooting procedure - starting from the sensor and working back. Thought I had struck gold fairly early (although in the two places where it showed the plug under the right side panel it identified a different one so I had to follow the wire from the sensor  .

That was also where I read about the 4k error code (?!?!). Will nip out for a visual inspection now and it would certainly be useful to know where to put the voltmeter. Failing that I have a C&S in my garage waiting to go on, so I guess I'll combine the two jobs if it is the sensor.

[seangee]

No quick wins today. Those 2 multiplugs both look clean and dry inside. Found a sensor on flea bay and ordered it after checking the price of a new one. Assume it's not an item that fails often. In the meantime I'll stick to third gear when I know there are cameras about - cos thats the one where I have done a mental calibration between speed and revs 

[chitsu]

Righty O! then,
First things first, check that you are getting the 5V feed to the speed sensor, unplug the white 3 pin connector that is located behind the Right Hand Side, side panel (it will be in or around the area of the fuel pump) with this unplugged switch ON the ignition and check the 'WHITE' wire on the BIKE SIDE of the harness, there should be a 5V feed there, if there is 5V there piggy back into the back of the connector (check on either side as I have had problems between connectors in the past) and turn the REAR wheel, if you get 5V-0V-5V-0V the sensor is fine and your fault lies elsewhere.
Rather than complicating things, and assuming one rather than another, carry out this check first and let me know your results. I will try and point you the right direction of what to check next as I had 3 Yam's last year with speedo faults, 2 were pretty much identical in remedy the 3rd was'nt (cheapest fix too  ).
 
On another note I checked the fault code guide & your right about the speed sensor having it's own error code (4K) looking at the C.F.D all 4 items that are enabled with self diagnosis share one common wire which is Black/Blue (B/L), this is unrelated but I personally have never seen this error code, even if you unplug the speed sensor I dont think it shows up like when the other components (EXUP, TPS & Tip over Switch) are unplugged ?
 
Keep me posted, chitsu.

[seangee]

• 5 volts on bike side - CHECK (Actually 4.54v)
• Replug connector and measure both sides with ignition on. CHECK (Still 4.54)
• Keep voltmeter attached and turn back wheel in normal direction of travel - check both sides for luck. Result: Steady 4.54v

If I've understood you correctly this means I haven't just wasted 30 squid on a sensor. No further activity until Friday as I am in Warrington, without bike, until then - but will check on here to see if I did understand correctly

[chitsu]

Well just spent the last 40 minutes writing a reply only for my computer to crash!!!!!!
 
Anyway, yes you've kind of understood me, right.
 
What you need to be looking for here is the switching of the 5V-0V-5V-0V and so on as the wheel is rotated in the direction of rotation, this is what the instument cluster is looking for, the frequency of the 0V's to 5V's it is putting out, this is what is giving the speedo reading or number of rotations of the rear wheel = your indicated road speed.
If you are'nt getting a 0V and just a constant 5V at that connector then there is a problem with the sensor (possibly!).
If you are getting the 'SWITCHING' in voltage you need to work forward now. Check at the C.D.I unit (DO NOT UNPLUG THIS WITH THE IGNITION ON !!!!!) you now need to check the 'WHITE' wire at the C.D.I (with the connector unplugged) and also at the back of the clocks (the WHITE wire remains the same colour throughout the entire loom) Piggyback the test lead into the back of the clocks (WHITE wire again) and use the BATTERY negative pole for your earth, now switch on the iginition, If you get 4.54V at both these points atleast there is some consistancy here in the voltages.
Also another test to carry out here is with the ignition OFF unplug the clocks, C.D.I & the speed sensor and check the 'WHITE wires continuity to EARTH, if your getting a continuity reading then theres a fault in the loom somewhere (it's shorted to EARTH), and this is possibly why your not getting the 'SWITCHING' reading at the speed sensor, and obviously no speedo reading
Let me know how you get on, also is the bike fitted with an alarm at all ?
 
chitsu.

[seangee]

Yup - no switching is what I have (no alarm either but please don't tell anyone).

On my way to the  airport now. Will fit new sensor on Friday if I can do it without dropping the swingarm - otherwise the following weekend.

Cheers for the help so far.

[chitsu]

O.K, then it MIGHT just be a faulty sensor (fingers crossed).


But before you fit the new sensor unplug the speed sensor, clocks & C.D.I units & check that there is no continuity to earth on the WHITE wire, if theres  no continuity to earth you should be good to go, but if there is continuity you need either A). Bypass all the white wires with new ones or B). Trace the short and repair accordingly.




Good luck, chitsu.

[seangee]

Just got home and new sensor is here. Am I missing something obvious or...


Wouldn't it make sense to check with everything connected and only start isolating parts of the system if there IS a short?

[chitsu]

If there is a short to earth you potentially run the risk of damaging the NEW sensor, for what it takes to just unpulg those 3 components I think it is a safety check worth carrying out ?
 

[seangee]

Ok I get it. Tested before replacing to be on the safe side. All checks out and no leaks to earth. Just waiting for my socket driven hex keys to arrive so I can swap the sensor. Couldn't get enough leverage from my one finger to use conventional allen keys 

[chitsu]

Ah yes, they are a bit tight, I used an 'EXTRA LONG BALL ENDED' 3/8 drive socket which was a remnant from my V.W days on the last R1 I changed he sensor on (alot more room on them than the FZS).
 
Fingers crossed it should be allright with the new sensor.
 
chitsu.

[seangee]

Well - removal was a piece of cake with the correct tools 


And routing the new cable and aligning the sensor was a real barrel of laughs.


Addendum: Paragraph 1 means socket driven hex key, socket extension with flexible joint AND wire cutters 


Got there in the end cos I now have a working speedo


Cheers Chitsu for the advice and encouragement along the way

[chitsu]

Excellent result