Author Topic: New Chain Time = Sprockets too ? (Read 12834 times)

fazersharp · « **Reply #100 on:** 30 April 2019, 10:12:45 pm »

Quote from: darrsi on 30 April 2019, 09:55:02 pm

Quote from: fazersharp on 30 April 2019, 08:46:18 pm
@darrsi is any gear oil ok like this https://www.wilko.com/en-uk/comma-gear-oil-ep80w-90-gl4-mineral-1l/p/0077164?nst=0&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIm72N88j44QIV8QDTCh2tfgTMEAQYASABEgJBHPD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

Yeah, truth is it still looks like oil and is still runny, so it's no different to look at, but the figures say it's heavier than normal should stick around a little better.
Always apply after a ride when the chain's still warm.

Dynspud · « **Reply #101 on:** 01 May 2019, 08:54:47 am »

Hi Sharpie.
I use the same grade stuff from Halfords:-

https://www.halfords.com/motoring/engine-oils-fluids/gearbox-oil/halfords-gear-oil-ep-80w-90-gl-4-1l

It works a treat.

fazersharp · « **Reply #102 on:** 01 May 2019, 09:54:34 am »

Here it is. less than 24 hours after ordering. Good service so far from Bike Torque Racing. In place of the tin of gunge lube I asked for an extra link so if I get it wrong I have another chance.

Any know the thread size on the rear sprocket nuts as I am going to get some stainless ones. I think the socket fit is 14mm

bandit · « **Reply #103 on:** 01 May 2019, 10:48:14 am »

M10 Thread size with a bit of threadlock. Smile

robbo · « **Reply #104 on:** 01 May 2019, 12:58:09 pm »

Got mine from Racebolt UK on the bay.£21.60 delivered.

fazersharp · « **Reply #105 on:** 01 May 2019, 01:29:21 pm »

Quote from: robbo on 01 May 2019, 12:58:09 pm

Got mine from Racebolt UK on the bay.£21.60 delivered.

You know what I had them in my basket and thought I would double check here for new posts, went back and brought them, thanks. £24 now.

I did notice that some people were selling stainless steel "rear sprocket nuts" but they were just normal s/s flange nuts. And the difference is - from what I can see that the nut on a "proper " nut is taller and covers all of the stud and also the flange is thicker. I think using a shorter nut and leaving stud sticking out looks crap. Also the finish on the cheap normal ones looks cheap Chinese.

Stupid price for 6 nuts but the sprocket is silver so don't want to re fit my manky 21 year old nuts back

fazersharp · « **Reply #106 on:** 01 May 2019, 01:40:15 pm »

Got this lube from a local motor factors thought the smaller bottle will still last me years. Also got a small squeeze source bottle to apply to the chain. £1.09p
The oil says EP90 and GL-5 - so is that thicker than 80-90 Gl-4

My thumb is double jointed by the way

Dynspud · « **Reply #107 on:** 01 May 2019, 02:52:21 pm »

Good explanation of the different grades here:-

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gear_oil

Scroll down a bit to the API section.

fazersharp · « **Reply #108 on:** 01 May 2019, 03:01:34 pm »

Useful / interesting.
"GL-5 has a lower coefficient of friction due to the higher concentration of EP additives over GL-4, and thus synchros can not engage as effectively."
The the higher concentration of EP additives is not going to harm my o (x) rings is it ?

robbo · « **Reply #109 on:** 01 May 2019, 04:25:12 pm »

Used to have a problem sourcing GL5 when I had a GS1150, as that is the specified grade for the gearbox and diff. Strangely enough the only stockist near me was a Honda dealer.

fazersharp · « **Reply #110 on:** 01 May 2019, 09:03:53 pm »

Going to add a link to some info about the silent JT front sprocket - maybe it will help others http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php?topic=23903.msg297326#msg297326

unfazed · « **Reply #111 on:** 01 May 2019, 09:44:12 pm »

Quote from: fazersharp on 01 May 2019, 09:03:53 pm

Going to add a link to some info about the silent JT front sprocket - maybe it will help others http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php?topic=23903.msg297326#msg297326

Worth buying, as they are only around a pound more expensive than standard code is JTF513RB
If you do go the DID chain route buy from a reputable source as there are fakes cropping up and are difficult to tell apart until they break of are worn out in 2000 mile.

I have used AFAM, DID, Regina and Izumi chains over the last 40odd years without any issues. I have also used JT sprockets, Ognibene sprockets and AFAM sprockets without issues.

Generally I change the front sprocket every 8 to 10000miles and chains and rear sprockets last around the 40000 mile mark, but then I also have a Scotoiler fitted which helps.
I presently have a DID HD O Ring on the 1000 which has 23000 miles on it and replaced the front sprocket at the 10 and 20000 mile mark

Last chain I fitted to the 600 was Yamaha OEM as I got a NOS kit for £120.

fazersharp · « **Reply #112 on:** 02 May 2019, 10:31:45 am »

Quote from: unfazed on 01 May 2019, 09:44:12 pm

If you do go the DID chain route buy from a reputable source as there are fakes cropping up and are difficult to tell apart until they break of are worn out in 2000 mile.

Its in my post a couple of posts back #103 with a picture

fazersharp · « **Reply #113 on:** 02 May 2019, 10:50:02 am »

This may sound a step too far but - here we go.

For chain lube I will be using gear oil but I have seen that some is a charcoal/lead colour and I have a nice gold chain. I have an unopened bottle of Carlube EP90 GL-5 that I might take back and swap but need to make sure I am buying a nice golden oil and not one that looks like it has been in a tractor for 20 years

darrsi · « **Reply #114 on:** 02 May 2019, 12:39:00 pm »

Quote from: fazersharp on 02 May 2019, 10:50:02 am

This may sound a step too far but - here we go.

For chain lube I will be using gear oil but I have seen that some is a charcoal/lead colour and I have a nice gold chain. I have an unopened bottle of Carlube EP90 GL-5 that I might take back and swap but need to make sure I am buying a nice golden oil and not one that looks like it has been in a tractor for 20 years

Doubt you'll notice the oil once it's on.

You should try some oil on that thumb Sharpie

fazersharp · « **Reply #115 on:** 02 May 2019, 01:32:59 pm »

Quote from: darrsi on 02 May 2019, 12:39:00 pm

Quote from: fazersharp on 02 May 2019, 10:50:02 am
This may sound a step too far but - here we go.

For chain lube I will be using gear oil but I have seen that some is a charcoal/lead colour and I have a nice gold chain. I have an unopened bottle of Carlube EP90 GL-5 that I might take back and swap but need to make sure I am buying a nice golden oil and not one that looks like it has been in a tractor for 20 years

Doubt you'll notice the oil once it's on.

You should try some oil on that thumb Sharpie

Manley working hands - what can I say.
So what about my question earlier.
"GL-5 has a lower coefficient of friction due to the higher concentration of EP additives over GL-4, and thus synchros can not engage as effectively."
The the higher concentration of EP additives is not going to harm my o (x) rings is it ?

I have found the data sheet for it

9.1. Information on basic physical and chemical properties Appearance Clear liquid.
Colour Brown.

fazersharp · « **Reply #116 on:** 02 May 2019, 03:28:45 pm »

Thought this looked interesting

Fazerider · « **Reply #117 on:** 02 May 2019, 06:08:20 pm »

It would have been interesting to see the difference in torque needed.
You can’t judge the degree of oxidation by looking at how many bubbles are in the oil.
Oil getting flung off the gears onto the casings is a useful way to transfer heat and get any hardened metal lost from the gears out of harm’s way to the bottom of the sump.
But I guess in some situations that GL6 may be ideal.

fazersharp · « **Reply #118 on:** 02 May 2019, 06:34:42 pm »

Quote from: Fazerider on 02 May 2019, 06:08:20 pm

Oil getting flung off the gears onto the casings is a useful way to transfer heat and get any hardened metal lost from the gears out of harm’s way to the bottom of the sump.

Yep been doing some reading on gear oil and heat transfer was a useful property. But my thought was for bike chains

bandit · « **Reply #119 on:** 02 May 2019, 07:25:00 pm »

Life is just so much easier when you use chain lube! Cheesy

fazersharp · « **Reply #120 on:** 02 May 2019, 08:30:52 pm »

Starting to get some tools arriving now. Brought this just incase the front sprocket nut wants to start a fight

bandit · « **Reply #121 on:** 02 May 2019, 08:39:30 pm »

Bet you can't wait to get started. Smile

fazersharp · « **Reply #122 on:** 02 May 2019, 09:01:07 pm »

A few weeks ago after my MOT I resolved not to ride it again until I had it sorted. Will be nice not to have that knocking through the left peg that I have been trying to ignore.

fazersharp · « **Reply #123 on:** 03 May 2019, 03:19:35 pm »

More bits arrived

fazersharp · « **Reply #124 on:** 06 May 2019, 08:09:00 pm »

The rear sprocket is handed but 95% sure that the milled face faces out and the smooth face faces in to the wheel but just wanted to double check.Photos here