New Chain Time = Sprockets too ?

[fazersharp]

The stock Yamaha chain would have been endless so would have had a solid link, on an assembly line it's far quicker to hang a complete chain on the bike before installing the swingarm, than join a chain later in the building process.

I meant the front sprocket as the stock Yam has an orange damper insert. And how much was it.

[fazersharp]

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Yamaha-FZS-600-S-Fazer-98-03-DID-JT-Quiet-Chain-And-Sprocket-Kit-P1/283334074132?hash=item41f806df14:g:eH0AAOSwm79ckjyC

I see that they also sell a C+s kit that looks like it is an endless chain. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Yamaha-FZS600-S-Fazer-98-03-DID-VX-Chain-And-Sprocket-Kit-/192219748219?hash=item2cc130977b also comes with Afram sprockets. Think I will give them a call tomorrow.

Actually like the look of this "silent" front and rear kit https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Yamaha-FZS600-S-Fazer-98-03-DID-Silent-Chain-And-Sprocket-Kit-/132618719461?hash=item1ee0b110e5

[bandit]

The stock Yamaha chain would have been endless so would have had a solid link, on an assembly line it's far quicker to hang a complete chain on the bike before installing the swingarm, than join a chain later in the building process.

I meant the front sprocket as the stock Yam has an orange damper insert. And how much was it.

The original front sprocket is around £40.

[fazersharp]

The stock Yamaha chain would have been endless so would have had a solid link, on an assembly line it's far quicker to hang a complete chain on the bike before installing the swingarm, than join a chain later in the building process.

I meant the front sprocket as the stock Yam has an orange damper insert. And how much was it.

The original front sprocket is around £40.

£40  I like the look of the afram silent one in the kit which I think is £ 13 to buy on its own.So are people saying Afram are better or inferior to JT sprockets.
 

[bandit]

I prefer this one for £13 maybe because it looks like the Yam one,


 [size=78%]https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Yamaha-FZS600-S-Fazer-98-03-Ognibene-15T-Silent-Front-Sprocket-STD-Size/192224937034?hash=item2cc17fc44a:g:oIEAAOSwcCJckQf2[/size]

I would buy a chain kit with the normal rear sprocket & maybe steel front then buy my choice of rubber shocked front sprocket if I couldn't buy as a kit.

[robbo]

Can't remember what I paid for the stock front sprocket, but was pleasantly surprised that my Yam dealer had it in stock, although it's normally next day if ordered. Fowlers show it at £35 which sounds about right. I stuck with genuine as it had been on the bike for 14 years, 23k miles, and was in good nick when I removed it. No doubt I changed the chain/sprocket a bit too early but to my mind I'm good for another 20k+ and can forget about it other than lubing and any adjustment. I chose the Afam rear by design, as wanted steel and black in colour, which is an option. When I've bought chain/sprocket sets the usual make of sprocket has been JT or Sun and wouldn't consider them inferior and have used loads over the years. I liked the look of Renthal but for road use prefer steel so went for Afam as Rossi's got an Afam sticker on his bike . What's good enough for him etc etc. Still ride like a twat though.

[fazersharp]

I prefer this one for £13 maybe because it looks like the Yam one,


 [size=78%]https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Yamaha-FZS600-S-Fazer-98-03-Ognibene-15T-Silent-Front-Sprocket-STD-Size/192224937034?hash=item2cc17fc44a:g:oIEAAOSwcCJckQf2[/size]

I would buy a chain kit with the normal rear sprocket & maybe steel front then buy my choice of rubber shocked front sprocket if I couldn't buy as a kit.

That was exactly my thought too. I like the look of that one in your link. I am sure that if it is not in a kit they will put one together for me. So chain - normal rear and the yam - looking front. But I do like the look of those silent rear ones as they have prrredy looking slots cut out and in silver then I could get some stainless steel nuts to go with.

[fazersharp]

No doubt I changed the chain/sprocket a bit too early but to my mind I'm good for another 20k+ and can forget about it other than lubing and any adjustment. I chose the Afam rear by design, as wanted steel and black in colour, which is an option.

I am only changing the chain cause it has a tight spot but the sprockets still look good to me at 22k, I will post some pictures of my front sprocket tomorrow and see what the general consensus is.

Has anyone had any issues in removing the nuts on the rear sprocket. I don't want to end up with exhaust nut/stud - gate 
I have heard on here about problems with brake disk nuts but what about the sprocket nuts.
 

[fazersharp]

Also thinking about it - if I end up over tightening the link I could always grind it off and get a replacement link and have another go.


THANKS all for you input it is all helping me make my choice.   

[robbo]

Never had a problem removing sprocket nuts, a ring spanner and a whack with a rubber mallet, sorted. A stainless set is about 20 quid. Exactly right if you were unlucky to over tighten the soft link. Gold ones are about £6.50. You'll be fine, good luck.

[bandit]

I prefer this one for £13 maybe because it looks like the Yam one,


 [size=78%]https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Yamaha-FZS600-S-Fazer-98-03-Ognibene-15T-Silent-Front-Sprocket-STD-Size/192224937034?hash=item2cc17fc44a:g:oIEAAOSwcCJckQf2[/size]

I would buy a chain kit with the normal rear sprocket & maybe steel front then buy my choice of rubber shocked front sprocket if I couldn't buy as a kit.

That was exactly my thought too. I like the look of that one in your link. I am sure that if it is not in a kit they will put one together for me. So chain - normal rear and the yam - looking front. But I do like the look of those silent rear ones as they have prrredy looking slots cut out and in silver then I could get some stainless steel nuts to go with.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Yamaha-FZS600-S-Fazer-98-03-DID-Silent-Chain-And-Sprocket-Kit/132618719461?fits=UKM_Make%3AYamaha%7CUKM_CCM%3A600%7CUKM_StreetName%3AFazer%7CUKM_Model%3AFZS&hash=item1ee0b110e5:g:G-QAAOSw0vJcQIxj


Just need a chain tool but as you say they may do a deal.

[Fazerider]

Has anyone had any issues in removing the nuts on the rear sprocket. I don't want to end up with exhaust nut/stud - gate 
I have heard on here about problems with brake disk nuts but what about the sprocket nuts.

It’s steel on steel rather than steel into alloy like the brake discs and I never had a problem shifting the rear sprocket, but mine has been changed every 2 to 4 years. Yours on the other hand, if it’s been undisturbed for a couple of decades, might put up some resistance. I’d use a 6-sided socket as a precaution against rounding off.

[darrsi]

Has anyone had any issues in removing the nuts on the rear sprocket. I don't want to end up with exhaust nut/stud - gate 
I have heard on here about problems with brake disk nuts but what about the sprocket nuts.

It’s steel on steel rather than steel into alloy like the brake discs and I never had a problem shifting the rear sprocket, but mine has been changed every 2 to 4 years. Yours on the other hand, if it’s been undisturbed for a couple of decades, might put up some resistance. I’d use a 6-sided socket as a precaution against rounding off.

   Yeah, +1 for anything that needs that extra bit of oomph by using a 6 sided socket. As you are no doubt well aware there are some nuts, bolts and screws on these bikes that can seem very soft so what should be a simple straightforward job can immediately go bad on you. 

My mechanic did have trouble years ago with my front sprocket more or less welding itself on, and had to use heat to get it off, and as mentioned being an original after 20 odd years untouched it would be Loctited on so will no doubt also give you something to think about as well.

[robbo]

+1   if in doubt, use 6 sided.

[fazersharp]

Thanks for the 6 sided tip.
So I gets out my Halfords Advanced Professional 1/2 inch socket set out and its all 12point
I also have the same Advanced Professional set but in 1/4inch but they are all 6 point. Whats that all about
Would my 1/4 drive be up to the job, I do have a 1/4 inch to 1/2inch adapter then I can use my 1/2inch wrench

[darrsi]

Thanks for the 6 sided tip.
So I gets out my Halfords Advanced Professional 1/2 inch socket set out and its all 12point
I also have the same Advanced Professional set but in 1/4inch but they are all 6 point. Whats that all about
Would my 1/4 drive be up to the job, I do have a 1/4 inch to 1/2inch adapter then I can use my 1/2inch wrench

It’s not ideal, but only one way to find out 

[fazersharp]

Thanks for the 6 sided tip.
So I gets out my Halfords Advanced Professional 1/2 inch socket set out and its all 12point
I also have the same Advanced Professional set but in 1/4inch but they are all 6 point. Whats that all about
Would my 1/4 drive be up to the job, I do have a 1/4 inch to 1/2inch adapter then I can use my 1/2inch wrench

It’s not ideal, but only one way to find out 

I have decided to invest in some 6 sided sockets in 1/2inch before I do the job. I have started a post on the general section as It may help others better there.

[fazersharp]

Just had a look at the swing arm nut. Will a normal socket get in there as it looks very tight between the nut and the wall of the hole. And what size socket do I need for it.
Also what size socket do I need for the front sprocket nut.

[robbo]

For general bike maintenance I've always used 3/8" drive sockets or 1/4" for anything a bit dainty. Mind you the front sprocket nut will be 1/2" drive on a breaker bar and no doubt a length of tube over the bar to increase leverage. A length of 3x2 timber wrapped in some cloths through the back wheel usually does the trick. I'll be in the garage later and let you know the socket size.

[fazersharp]

For general bike maintenance I've always used 3/8" drive sockets or 1/4" for anything a bit dainty. Mind you the front sprocket nut will be 1/2" drive on a breaker bar and no doubt a length of tube over the bar to increase leverage. A length of 3x2 timber wrapped in some cloths through the back wheel usually does the trick. I'll be in the garage later and let you know the socket size.

Thanks. I was hoping to be able to use a normal 1/2inch socket ratchet - all-be-it with a bar over it.
So maybe I should invest in a breaker bar. This one worth getting do you think
https://www.screwfix.com/p/hilka-pro-craft-drive-flexible-head-power-bar-24/1186k

Or this.
https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/pro77-1-2in-drive-breaker-bar/

[robbo]

Had a quick search on the forum in case 600 and 1000 front sprocket nuts are different. Looks like yours requires a 32mm socket and make sure the nut is the 12mm thick one, if not it should be changed. Also renew the tab washer, personally I'd use genuine Yamaha, as the tabs on some aftermarket ones are known to break as soon as they're bent over.

[robbo]

Machine Mart ones cheaper. Clarke stuff is ok. What part of the country are you in, I could lend you all this stuff if you're a reasonable distance.

[fazersharp]

Had a quick search on the forum in case 600 and 1000 front sprocket nuts are different. Looks like yours requires a 32mm socket and make sure the nut is the 12mm thick one, if not it should be changed. Also renew the tab washer, personally I'd use genuine Yamaha, as the tabs on some aftermarket ones are known to break as soon as they're bent over.

Yep I know about the nut issue and have already brought the upgraded one a couple of years ago. I have just put the verniers across it and its 31.87mm but I forgot to measure the old 9mm one when I had the cover off a few mins ago

[fazersharp]

Machine Mart ones cheaper. Clarke stuff is ok. What part of the country are you in, I could lend you all this stuff if you're a reasonable distance.

Thanks for I am in the Midlands, bit too far.Just noticed that the machine mart clarke breaker is 18inch but the screwfix hilka one is 24inch

[bandit]

If you can wait get individual sockets & breaker bar like silverline off Ebay, make sure you get the right size drive for the 32mm front sprocket nut as direct to the breaker without adaptor is better. Are you still going to remove the swing arm then?.