New Chain Time = Sprockets too ?

[bandit]

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Yamaha-FZS-600-S-Fazer-98-03-DID-JT-Quiet-Chain-And-Sprocket-Kit-P1/283334074132?hash=item41f806df14:g:eH0AAOSwm79ckjyC


Something to read,


https://www.mrcycles.com/endlesschainremoval

[darrsi]

Don't think the chain is endless when fitting it just means it's supplied with a rivet link only instead of a split link option, so hence the endless in the description.  

That has thrown me now.
Here are the 2 options in busters one described as "Endless" and the other as "Open Chain with Rivet link".  https://www.busters-accessories.co.uk/en/category/10108000000/vehicle/yamaha-fzs-600:21149/
But both have a drop down list with "Accessories" which list separately either a hollow rivet or a solid rivet.
Screenshot attached

That is a conundrum 


It says "endless" so you would think it was exactly that, but maybe they offer the links in case you alter the size of your sprockets later on, and are just covering all options?

[fazersharp]

Interesting read:


https://www.sportbikes.net/forums/fz6-fz6r/450616-need-new-chain-want-endless.html

Yes I am the same as that fella. I don't mind taking off the swing arm as it will give me an excuse to re-grease it -- otherwise I wont be bothering to do so.
 I will look into a tool to do a join so if not too much cost but I doubt I will be using it again anytime soon. Also I don't trust myself that I wont end up with an over tight join and then I am back in the same position where I started with a tight link, i always have to give things an extra stupid push.
And then there is the "is it safe" in the back of my mind - just like the fella on the link. But as he says I will just have to get over it and as pointed out far more powerful bikes get on just fine.     

[darrsi]

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Yamaha-FZS-600-S-Fazer-98-03-DID-JT-Quiet-Chain-And-Sprocket-Kit-P1/283334074132?hash=item41f806df14:g:eH0AAOSwm79ckjyC

Can't remember the exact reasoning, but i've read on here many times not to use an "extra" or "super" heavy weight chain on these bikes.
After reading that link i posted earlier it could just be that it's totally unnecessary and a bit overkill for this size of bike i s'pose?


That aside, that's a pretty good deal, as that package has got everything you need by the looks of it.

[fazersharp]

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Yamaha-FZS-600-S-Fazer-98-03-DID-JT-Quiet-Chain-And-Sprocket-Kit-P1/283334074132?hash=item41f806df14:g:eH0AAOSwm79ckjyC
Something to read,
https://www.mrcycles.com/endlesschainremoval

Thanks
I am thinking about that quiet F sprocket in your ebay link.
The link with the tool is useful and I do already own some digital vernier gauges. But it refers to an endless chain removal but replaced with a riveted chain.
 

[fazersharp]

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Yamaha-FZS-600-S-Fazer-98-03-DID-JT-Quiet-Chain-And-Sprocket-Kit-P1/283334074132?hash=item41f806df14:g:eH0AAOSwm79ckjyC

Can't remember the exact reasoning, but i've read on here many times not to use an "extra" or "super" heavy weight chain on these bikes.
After reading that link i posted earlier it could just be that it's totally unnecessary and a bit overkill for this size of bike i s'pose?
That aside, that's a pretty good deal, as that package has got everything you need by the looks of it.

I will do some research on the tool that comes with it.
But a 530 chain is the OEM for the bike.

[darrsi]

I've never fitted a chain link myself, not on a motorbike anyway, so one question is can you get it very wrong or is it that straightforward to do?
Can you press the pin too much for example causing any issues?
As you can fully understand it's not an area that you really want to botch in any way or form as the aftermath could be disastrous.

[Fazerider]

… The sets you buy usually come with afam sprockets…

I guess things have changed. I’ve not bought an aftermarket C&S set for ages (the last 2 have been genuine Yamaha and I get 40k from them thanks to the oiler), but the sprockets always used to be JT.

I must look into getting a Scottoiler to be honest, it really doesn't bother me using the brush method at all, in fact i like to see exactly what's going on, but it would make more sense to do it automatically.
I've started using a thicker grade gear oil, is that still okay to use with these gadgets?

I use cheap car engine oil, film strength is easily sufficient and it’s less sticky so doesn’t hang on to grit. Easy to prime too, on the occasions when I forget to refill and run the reservoir dry.
I’d expect gear oil to work OK too, what ever you choose will take a bit of fiddling with the flow rate. Scottoil is thicker and stickier than 10W40… probably not very different to the gear oil you’re using.

[fazersharp]

The thing with D.I.D not wanting to pair up with "cheese" sprockets is that D.I.D don't do the pairings - its the sellers and to be especially careful with ebay sellers.It seems that JT sprockets are the most used ones in the pairings. Don't think I need to go down the Renthals route and from what I can find the rear anodised wears quicker that a JT steel one, with the idea being that the Renthal one is lighter ( by about a pie  ) 

[fazersharp]

I've never fitted a chain link myself, not on a motorbike anyway, so one question is can you get it very wrong or is it that straightforward to do?
Can you press the pin too much for example causing any issues?
As you can fully understand it's not an area that you really want to botch in any way or form as the aftermath could be disastrous.

That is pricecly why I want an Endless chain - if it exists.

[darrsi]

I've never fitted a chain link myself, not on a motorbike anyway, so one question is can you get it very wrong or is it that straightforward to do?
Can you press the pin too much for example causing any issues?
As you can fully understand it's not an area that you really want to botch in any way or form as the aftermath could be disastrous.

That is pricecly why I want an Endless chain - if it exists.

It will be endless, once the riveted link is in place. 

[darrsi]

So it really was overkill by Yamaha.

[fazersharp]

Another thing to mention, i spent decades using proper spray chain lube thinking it was the best thing since sliced bread, yet after trialing using engine oil instead put on with a paint brush i can really see and feel that the chain is in a much better condition than it ever was than when it was gunged up with lube.
Nothing sticks to it any more so it looks cleaner for starters and when the oil is very quickly applied with the paint brush on a warm chain i can immediately see that every single link is getting a good covering, whereas i can now understand that it would be fairly easy to miss just one link using the spray lube which in turn can then become that weakest link that you suddenly feel through your footpeg further down the line.   

It was after reading you previous posts about this that I have decided to go down the same route with my new chain. I Have used can lube for 18 years. My riding is only in the dry = dust and grit in the air. Looking at the condition of my rear sprocket I should not be having a tight spot or wear on a chain with 22k miles..
But because it is white I can see where it is going
My lube here

 

[Fazerider]

I've never fitted a chain link myself, not on a motorbike anyway, so one question is can you get it very wrong or is it that straightforward to do?
Can you press the pin too much for example causing any issues?
As you can fully understand it's not an area that you really want to botch in any way or form as the aftermath could be disastrous.

Yes, you can overtighten the link if you spread the pin too hard. I use vernier calipers, tighten the tool slowly and stop once the rivet link is the same width as the other links. Easy.

[fazersharp]

So it really was overkill by Yamaha.

As our bike was mostly born from the parts bin, maybe they had a skip full of 530 chains to get rid of

[darrsi]

Can't stress how much my bike for example will suffer from being ridden all year round, compared to a "dry" bike......just no contest really, hence why your bike is looking in such good nick and you probably don't have half the issues an all weather bike would have.
The salt alone on wet roads when snow is expected could wipe a chain out if it's not kept properly maintained.

[fazersharp]

I use the Afam Riviting tool, simple to use

I will get a photo of the front sprocket for peoples opinion as to if I really need to change it as I understand it wears quicker than the rear.
What is the tool you use?

This is the one.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/183609863691?

Thanks I will check them both out.
My local Yam dealer wants £60 to fit a chain that I supply

[darrsi]

I've never fitted a chain link myself, not on a motorbike anyway, so one question is can you get it very wrong or is it that straightforward to do?
Can you press the pin too much for example causing any issues?
As you can fully understand it's not an area that you really want to botch in any way or form as the aftermath could be disastrous.

Yes, you can overtighten the link if you spread the pin too hard. I use vernier calipers, tighten the tool slowly and stop once the rivet link is the same width as the other links. Easy.

I can totally understand people being hesitant on doing it themselves though as it's such an important part of the bike that needs to be spot on.
Ideally i s'pose it would be nice to have an old chain to practice on so that you can then be totally confident with everything.

[robbo]

A decent rivetter would cost 50-60 quid, although the Afam one is cheaper and a good choice as it is just a rivetter whereas most sets include tools to assist the breaking of the chain, which an angle grinder will do. The link that was posted showing hollow and solid links need different tools to flare the link. Solid links are rarely chosen where a Whale is the best tool, as this is a hammered on link commonly used in race paddocks. There is a chain/sprocket kit using Ognibene sprockets which have the "silent" dampers on them. I deliberated over what to get quite recently, and eventually plumbed for a stock Yamaha front, which are quite expensive, and a steel Afam rear which is available in black, which I thought, looked good.

[bandit]

This is a video of the tool that is supplied with the chain & sprocket kit from Ebay earlier.


 

[fazersharp]

This is a video of the tool that is supplied with the chain & sprocket kit from Ebay earlier.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cISYlybsTVU
 

That is very useful - thanks. So am I right in thinking that a hollow rivet plink is only hollow on the ends. Also it sounds like you can not over tighten with that tool - is that correct too.

It looks fiddly even on a bench

[fazersharp]

I've never fitted a chain link myself, not on a motorbike anyway, so one question is can you get it very wrong or is it that straightforward to do?
Can you press the pin too much for example causing any issues?
As you can fully understand it's not an area that you really want to botch in any way or form as the aftermath could be disastrous.

Yes, you can overtighten the link if you spread the pin too hard. I use vernier calipers, tighten the tool slowly and stop once the rivet link is the same width as the other links. Easy.

I can totally understand people being hesitant on doing it themselves though as it's such an important part of the bike that needs to be spot on.
Ideally i s'pose it would be nice to have an old chain to practice on so that you can then be totally confident with everything.

I will have a spare chain - the one I am taking off and I can buy seperatly extra rivet links to practice with.
I have an angle grinder to remove the old chain

[robbo]

Have bought stuff from Bike Torque Racing in the past, good firm to deal with.

[fazersharp]

A decent rivetter would cost 50-60 quid, although the Afam one is cheaper and a good choice as it is just a rivetter whereas most sets include tools to assist the breaking of the chain, which an angle grinder will do. The link that was posted showing hollow and solid links need different tools to flare the link. Solid links are rarely chosen where a Whale is the best tool, as this is a hammered on link commonly used in race paddocks. There is a chain/sprocket kit using Ognibene sprockets which have the "silent" dampers on them. I deliberated over what to get quite recently, and eventually plumbed for a stock Yamaha front, which are quite expensive, and a steel Afam rear which is available in black, which I thought, looked good.

Thanks for clarifying the two different hollow and solid links.
Is the stock yam one the same with the orange section.

[robbo]

The stock Yamaha chain would have been endless so would have had a solid link, on an assembly line it's far quicker to hang a complete chain on the bike before installing the swingarm, than join a chain later in the building process.