Squawking noise on and off

[shieldr]

Hi, have an fzs600 with 31k on the clock. Have had it for around 6 years with no major problems. Just recently I have had a squawking noise intermittently when riding. The noise comes in short bursts. Usually just after accelerating. At first I thought was Some sort of wind noise but now am sure it’s mechanical. Any ideas? Brakes all look good. I thought maybe headers, loose plug, head gasket. Sounds like a budgie being strangled. Not like brake squeal at all. Thanks for any help  . It is hard to check when riding with lid on etc.

[mtread]

Speedo drive on the front wheel? When they run out of grease they squeal something rotten.

[Frosties]

Front fork seals ? Do you get the same when breaking ?


Are we talking hard acceleration then cruise/throttle off.....gentle acceleration then cruise/throttle off. Acceleration from standstill or acceleration from any given speed ? Any particular gear ?

[Chris]

Knackered wheel bearing/s?


Speedo drive as mentioned.


What about your lid? Vent open/loose and causing high pitched noise?


Chris

[mtread]

Parrot attached to the handlebars? 

[shieldr]

Speedo drive on the front wheel? When they run out of grease they squeal something rotten.

Cheers, I will grease it anyway as it has it been done in years. Also I have used the bike through the winter so that would stack up. 👍

[shieldr]

Front fork seals ? Do you get the same when breaking ?


Are we talking hard acceleration then cruise/throttle off.....gentle acceleration then cruise/throttle off. Acceleration from standstill or acceleration from any given speed ? Any particular gear ?

Ta, the noise is fairly intermittent. Happened say 4 times for a few seconds on a 10 mile commute home. Fairly loud and Squawky though. I would say some times during normal acceleration in the middle gears then particularly when coming off the the throttle for a few seconds or more. It sounds like air squawking past some sort of seal.

[shieldr]

Parrot attached to the handlebars? 

I will check 1st thing Monday morning 

[shieldr]

Knackered wheel bearing/s?


Speedo drive as mentioned.


What about your lid? Vent open/loose and causing high pitched noise?



Chris

Ta, doesn’t sound like a bearing squeal. More of a weird squawk. I did think it was the lid or glove heating cables hanging out of the jacket but definitely not. 🍻

[His Dudeness]

Does the frequency of the noise change with speed? If so I'd be looking at rotating things like wheel bearings, speedo, brakes, chain and sprocket. If it's a bit more random and doesn't change with speed it might be rear suspension linkages, maybe swing arm bearings. Also I'd check the dreaded front sprocket nut. Your description is pretty vague, the problem could be anywhere, check the easiest things first but it's a good excuse to take the front and rear end off one at a time and  investigate and give everything a clean and grease.

[shieldr]

Update; got an hour to check the bike today and found an extremely slack chain. It was fitted new a year ago and tightened up at mot time last August. The play was massive and I have no idea why or if this might cause the intermittent squawk. Will be Monday before I get a chance now.  The front sprocket I checked as fine also. This was changed at the same time as the chain. Can anyone confirm if a super slack chain could make this noise. Ta

[His Dudeness]

Yeah there's a good chance it was the chain. How many miles since you adjusted it?

[shieldr]

Hard to say.  less than 2000 for sure.  I have never seen a chain that slack though. I will keep an eye on it anyway.  I won't be riding until Monday but finding that seems like a smoking gun to me.  

[darrsi]

If the wheel is not straight and the chain a bit dry then that could cause the noise.
With the bike on the centre stand, spinning the wheel will tell you if it's aligned correctly or not. The chain should quietly purr when it's right, but if it's not straight then you'll hear all sorts of noises.
When adjusting the chain slack don't forget to slacken the brake caliper bar, and take your time nipping up either side a tiny bit at a time then spinning the wheel to hear if it's okay.
You want roughly around 35mm of play at the lower middle part of the chain, or a quicker and easier way is pushing the front of the lower chain upwards with your finger and it should just touch the plastic chain guide.   
Having it too tight is just as bad as having it too loose, so get it right then you won't need to adjust it again for ages.
I've started using a paint brush with engine oil to lubricate my chain now, instead of spray lube which i used for decades, and the chain is in better condition than ever. Plus it doesn't clog up any more, it repels dirt, and the oil effectively gets into every link when applied when the chain is warm after a run plus only takes a maximum 2 minutes to apply. I have newspaper down in my garage to catch any drips, and any other excess gets flung off next time i ride it.

[His Dudeness]

If the wheel is not straight and the chain a bit dry then that could cause the noise.
With the bike on the centre stand, spinning the wheel will tell you if it's aligned correctly or not. The chain should quietly purr when it's right, but if it's not straight then you'll hear all sorts of noises.
When adjusting the chain slack don't forget to slacken the brake caliper bar, and take your time nipping up either side a tiny bit at a time then spinning the wheel to hear if it's okay.
You want roughly around 35mm of play at the lower middle part of the chain, or a quicker and easier way is pushing the front of the lower chain upwards with your finger and it should just touch the plastic chain guide.   
Having it too tight is just as bad as having it too loose, so get it right then you won't need to adjust it again for ages.
I've started using a paint brush with engine oil to lubricate my chain now, instead of spray lube which i used for decades, and the chain is in better condition than ever. Plus it doesn't clog up any more, it repels dirt, and the oil effectively gets into every link when applied when the chain is warm after a run plus only takes a maximum 2 minutes to apply. I have newspaper down in my garage to catch any drips, and any other excess gets flung off next time i ride it.

Yeah I agree with darrsi. I think that's all spot on.

The chain shouldn't really be hanging off after only 2k. Either you're not oiling it enough and it wearing faster than it should or there might be a bit of play in your wheel bearings or swingarm bearings. Most likely is you're not oiling it enough but I'd check the wheel and swingarm bearings to be sure. How often you have to oil it depends on the lube you're using and the weather. If you're brushing on gear oil probably once a week/every other petrol fill up is enough or if it's very wet maybe do it every fill up. If you're using spray on lube you can push that further but you should still be doing it regularly. That's just my thoughts on it but it's definitely true that the same chain can last 50,000 miles or 5,000 miles, it all depends on how well you look after it.

[fazersharp]

I've started using a paint brush with engine oil to lubricate my chain now, instead of spray lube which i used for decades, and the chain is in better condition than ever. Plus it doesn't clog up any more, it repels dirt, and the oil effectively gets into every link when applied when the chain is warm after a run plus only takes a maximum 2 minutes to apply. I have newspaper down in my garage to catch any drips, and any other excess gets flung off next time i ride it.

Where does it get flung off to. Side of trye - undertray  -underdarrsi 

[His Dudeness]

You can spin up the chain on the center stand and wipe away any fling when the wheel is stopped and the engine is off (safety notice ). If you put it on sparingly and don't over do it there isn't much fling. The manual even recommends using engine oil or a suitable o ring safe lubricant


LUBRICATING THE DRIVE CHAINThe drive chain consists of many interacting parts. If the drive chain is not maintained properly, it will wear out rapidly. Therefore, the drive chain should be serviced, especially when the motorcycle is used in dusty areas. This motorcycle has a drive chain with small rubber O-rings between each side plate. Steam cleaning, high-pressure washing, certain solvents, and the use of a coarse brush can damage these O-rings. Therefore, use only kerosine to clean the drive chain. Wipe the drive chain dry and thoroughly lubricate it with engine oil or chain lubricant that is suitable for O-ring chains. Do not use any other lubricants on the drive chain since they may contain solvents that could damage the O-rings. Recommended lubricant Engine oil or chain lubricant suitable for O-ring chains

[darrsi]

I've started using a paint brush with engine oil to lubricate my chain now, instead of spray lube which i used for decades, and the chain is in better condition than ever. Plus it doesn't clog up any more, it repels dirt, and the oil effectively gets into every link when applied when the chain is warm after a run plus only takes a maximum 2 minutes to apply. I have newspaper down in my garage to catch any drips, and any other excess gets flung off next time i ride it.

Where does it get flung off to. Side of trye - undertray  -underdarrsi 

As Dude says you can "carefully" spin the back wheel on the centre stand and it will just fling off in a straight line behind the bike (use newspaper), or a lot of people will run a decent rag round the chain after oiling (one that doesn't fall apart) to mop up any excess oil.
Also, as he mentions, you just use common sense about how often to oil it. It does last longer than you'd imagine but if you've just done a motorway run in a storm then it would make sense to give it a bit of aftercare, but i don't think that will apply too much with you. 
You will get an oily rear sprocket though, but that really doesn't bother me at all.

[fazersharp]

I've started using a paint brush with engine oil to lubricate my chain now, instead of spray lube which i used for decades, and the chain is in better condition than ever. Plus it doesn't clog up any more, it repels dirt, and the oil effectively gets into every link when applied when the chain is warm after a run plus only takes a maximum 2 minutes to apply. I have newspaper down in my garage to catch any drips, and any other excess gets flung off next time i ride it.

Where does it get flung off to. Side of trye - undertray  -underdarrsi 

As Dude says you can "carefully" spin the back wheel on the centre stand and it will just fling off in a straight line behind the bike (use newspaper), or a lot of people will run a decent rag round the chain after oiling (one that doesn't fall apart) to mop up any excess oil.
Also, as he mentions, you just use common sense about how often to oil it. It does last longer than you'd imagine but if you've just done a motorway run in a storm then it would make sense to give it a bit of aftercare, but i don't think that will apply too much with you. 
You will get an oily rear sprocket though, but that really doesn't bother me at all.

I am nearing a new chain and sprocket set although its not badly worn the chain does have a tight spot that I can not free up and I can feel it when riding. I have always used chain wax but my riding is is all dry - so that's dust and grit that sticks to the wax. So I think when I fit new I am going to give engine oil a go and see how the fling goes. But cause I like my bike clean I may end up under lubing the chain.   

Sorry for the post     shieldr

[Jamieg285]

I had squealing that matches your description.  At first I thought it was a worn chain too, but it turned out to be a worn chain and a knackered sprocket carrier bearing.

[His Dudeness]

I've started using a paint brush with engine oil to lubricate my chain now, instead of spray lube which i used for decades, and the chain is in better condition than ever. Plus it doesn't clog up any more, it repels dirt, and the oil effectively gets into every link when applied when the chain is warm after a run plus only takes a maximum 2 minutes to apply. I have newspaper down in my garage to catch any drips, and any other excess gets flung off next time i ride it.

Where does it get flung off to. Side of trye - undertray  -underdarrsi 

As Dude says you can "carefully" spin the back wheel on the centre stand and it will just fling off in a straight line behind the bike (use newspaper), or a lot of people will run a decent rag round the chain after oiling (one that doesn't fall apart) to mop up any excess oil.
Also, as he mentions, you just use common sense about how often to oil it. It does last longer than you'd imagine but if you've just done a motorway run in a storm then it would make sense to give it a bit of aftercare, but i don't think that will apply too much with you. 
You will get an oily rear sprocket though, but that really doesn't bother me at all.

I am nearing a new chain and sprocket set although its not badly worn the chain does have a tight spot that I can not free up and I can feel it when riding. I have always used chain wax but my riding is is all dry - so that's dust and grit that sticks to the wax. So I think when I fit new I am going to give engine oil a go and see how the fling goes. But cause I like my bike clean I may end up under lubing the chain.   

Sorry for the post     shieldr

Try gear oil. It has a higher viscosity than engine oil so it's less prone to dripping or spraying off. You can get a 1 liter bottle on ebay for under £5 or probably under £10 locally. One bottle should last you a life time. I pour some into a smaller squeeze bottle and then use the small squeeze bottle and a brush to apply it to the chain. You can put a bit of cardboard down to catch any drips. The first few times I used it I was putting too much on and there was drips everywhere but now I don't really get any. All it needs is a very light coat brushed over the surface to wet it. Any more than that will spray off. Less is more

[shieldr]

If the wheel is not straight and the chain a bit dry then that could cause the noise.
With the bike on the centre stand, spinning the wheel will tell you if it's aligned correctly or not. The chain should quietly purr when it's right, but if it's not straight then you'll hear all sorts of noises.
When adjusting the chain slack don't forget to slacken the brake caliper bar, and take your time nipping up either side a tiny bit at a time then spinning the wheel to hear if it's okay.
You want roughly around 35mm of play at the lower middle part of the chain, or a quicker and easier way is pushing the front of the lower chain upwards with your finger and it should just touch the plastic chain guide.   
Having it too tight is just as bad as having it too loose, so get it right then you won't need to adjust it again for ages.
I've started using a paint brush with engine oil to lubricate my chain now, instead of spray lube which i used for decades, and the chain is in better condition than ever. Plus it doesn't clog up any more, it repels dirt, and the oil effectively gets into every link when applied when the chain is warm after a run plus only takes a maximum 2 minutes to apply. I have newspaper down in my garage to catch any drips, and any other excess gets flung off next time i ride it.

Some great tips here much appreciated.  It's always been a quiet purr for me.

[shieldr]

If the wheel is not straight and the chain a bit dry then that could cause the noise.
With the bike on the centre stand, spinning the wheel will tell you if it's aligned correctly or not. The chain should quietly purr when it's right, but if it's not straight then you'll hear all sorts of noises.
When adjusting the chain slack don't forget to slacken the brake caliper bar, and take your time nipping up either side a tiny bit at a time then spinning the wheel to hear if it's okay.
You want roughly around 35mm of play at the lower middle part of the chain, or a quicker and easier way is pushing the front of the lower chain upwards with your finger and it should just touch the plastic chain guide.   
Having it too tight is just as bad as having it too loose, so get it right then you won't need to adjust it again for ages.
I've started using a paint brush with engine oil to lubricate my chain now, instead of spray lube which i used for decades, and the chain is in better condition than ever. Plus it doesn't clog up any more, it repels dirt, and the oil effectively gets into every link when applied when the chain is warm after a run plus only takes a maximum 2 minutes to apply. I have newspaper down in my garage to catch any drips, and any other excess gets flung off next time i ride it.

Yeah I agree with darrsi. I think that's all spot on.

The chain shouldn't really be hanging off after only 2k. Either you're not oiling it enough and it wearing faster than it should or there might be a bit of play in your wheel bearings or swingarm bearings. Most likely is you're not oiling it enough but I'd check the wheel and swingarm bearings to be sure. How often you have to oil it depends on the lube you're using and the weather. If you're brushing on gear oil probably once a week/every other petrol fill up is enough or if it's very wet maybe do it every fill up. If you're using spray on lube you can push that further but you should still be doing it regularly. That's just my thoughts on it but it's definitely true that the same chain can last 50,000 miles or 5,000 miles, it all depends on how well you look after it.

Cheers.  The funny things is the last touch on the chain was by the local bike shop at MOT time.  Mind you the back brakes have been rotten since he changed the brake fluid too.  A wee bubble in the back caliper I suspect.

[shieldr]

I had squealing that matches your description.  At first I thought it was a worn chain too, but it turned out to be a worn chain and a knackered sprocket carrier bearing.

Cheers.  I will check that if the noise recurs.

[Dynspud]

I use hypoid gear oil (80/90 I think) from Halfords in a Scottoiler.
Chain & sprockets seem to not need adjusting very often, if at all, and are almost soundless when checked.
Also never had a tight spot on the chain either.