Author Topic: finally ivanising.. (Read 6796 times)

ogri48 · « **on:** 29 December 2018, 06:30:13 pm »

well whipped the carbs out of the thou today. when I say "whipped" errr..
aint the easiest set of carbs ive got out. Disconnecting that back throttle cable is an utter bitch lol. bt there out, cleaned up, and after tea I have permission from my little gruppenfuhrer to use the kitchen table and do the carb mods in the warm...

JIS scewdrivers rock when getting off float bowls btw..

agricola · « **Reply #1 on:** 29 December 2018, 09:09:47 pm »

Nice n clean

tommyardin · « **Reply #2 on:** 29 December 2018, 10:04:29 pm »

Every bloke who owns a Japanese Motor Cycle or car should have a set of JIS drivers, with them cream cheese cross head screws become a thing of the past.

Phillips and JIS are different the angle and reach of the tip are different, Phillips drivers stand a very good chance of wrecking Jap cross heads.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-Release-JIS-Screwdriver-set-4-pc-for-Japanese-Industrial-Standard-screws/182946883063?epid=19012026175&hash=item2a987be5f7:g:1BEAAOSw4PxaJoQp:rk:3:pf:1&frcectupt=true&autorefresh=true

These are worth having as well for your impact driver.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VESSEL-IMPACT-DRIVER-BIT-SET-NO2500-PH2-3-4-SLOTTED10x36mm-BS-2500-JIS-JAPAN/183562960076?epid=1103551457&hash=item2abd347ccc:g:rBEAAOSwikJb8801:rk:2:pf:1&frcectupt=true

robbo · « **Reply #3 on:** 29 December 2018, 10:11:30 pm »

+1 for what Tommy said

.

ogri48 · « **Reply #4 on:** 29 December 2018, 11:03:35 pm »

couldn't agree more. Gonna treat myself to some JIS long reach and stubbies too. Anyhoo job done. Very time consuming but if I ever have to do it again it should take half as long. mike was right about changing the o rings in the intake filters, they were shot even though they hadnt been leaking. I used every bit of advice given...thank you guys. mikes tip about checking the float heights at 12.5 mm standard was double handy in particular. nice clean ivanised carbs going back in in the morning. hopefully ive done everything right (still not sure ive gone through enough with the bypass holes, very hard to guage a mil drop lol), proof will be in the pudding tomorrow

ogri48 · « **Reply #5 on:** 29 December 2018, 11:06:46 pm »

forgot to say, the spacers in my carbs were 3mm not 2.5, so the e clip had to be moved up a notch from the 3rd one down as fitted in the kit. pats site had it all covered so no problem.

robbo · « **Reply #6 on:** 29 December 2018, 11:11:45 pm »

Great job ogri, well done. Hope all goes well tomorrow.

.

ogri48 · « **Reply #7 on:** 29 December 2018, 11:13:45 pm »

cheers robbo. it'll be satisfying right enough if its all tickety boo lol

robbo · « **Reply #8 on:** 29 December 2018, 11:24:26 pm »

I was well pleased after Mike had worked his magic on mine. You'll have the extra satisfaction of knowing it's all your own work. Well done fellah.

Falcon 269 · « **Reply #9 on:** 30 December 2018, 10:03:25 am »

Hi Paul,

It will be obvious if you've opened up the bypass holes sufficiently. You will see a clean hole which is larger than its neighbour. If the bit hasn't gone through all the way, you'll sort of have a smeared opening where the bit has not completed the cut. To check, take the drill bit in your fingers and offer it to the hole. It will slide in and out a few mil which will again be obvious to tell.

Remove/fit the throttle cables with the carbs out to the side of the engine, not while they're in place in the stubs. You can balance the bank of carbs on your left knee while guiding the cables in to place. Takes me about a minute to do both using that method.

ogri48 · « **Reply #10 on:** 30 December 2018, 07:07:22 pm »

cheers mike

Didn't take too long to get it all back together, toughest bit was getting the stubs back into the inlets. Fired her up and no leaks etc so took a steady ride down to Chepstow. muddy/wet twisty small mountain road, small throttle openings etc. got to "coffe one", had a big ol latte, phoned my sister then called dave (dynspud) whos thinking of ivanising his too.
"Whats it like?"
"Its ok dave..dunno if its worth the 8 hours its took me to do it all, but yeah, its ok...only had a short ride so far, engine was cold for a third of it..it pulls ok but then it pulled ok before.."
Another coffee, then I thought "well, probably ought to head down the wye valley, open it up, try it out properly.."
Thumbed the starter and woah, on the button! it always turns over at least once or twice when its cold before firing, but not no more.
Headed down the wye, roads are dry, 016s are gripping well, here we go then..
Five minutes later I was sold. Ten minutes later I was having more fun on a motorbike in December than you would think was humanly possible. And two hours later I had to make myself head home...
It was fast before, and it was good before. But now, its definitely faster, and its definitely better. God I love this bike...

robbo · « **Reply #11 on:** 30 December 2018, 07:55:29 pm »

Told ya

ogri48 · « **Reply #12 on:** 30 December 2018, 07:58:10 pm »

lol. im meeting dynspud at Chepstow tomorrow, we'll swap bikes on the usk road and i'll get a second opinion

ogri48 · « **Reply #13 on:** 30 December 2018, 08:01:09 pm »

Quote from: Falcon 269 on 30 December 2018, 10:03:25 am

Hi Paul,

It will be obvious if you've opened up the bypass holes sufficiently. You will see a clean hole which is larger than its neighbour. If the bit hasn't gone through all the way, you'll sort of have a smeared opening where the bit has not completed the cut. To check, take the drill bit in your fingers and offer it to the hole. It will slide in and out a few mil which will again be obvious to tell.

Remove/fit the throttle cables with the carbs out to the side of the engine, not while they're in place in the stubs. You can balance the bank of carbs on your left knee while guiding the cables in to place. Takes me about a minute to do both using that method.
Mike, is it possible to go too far and knack the carbs? I ran the drill bit around for a good minute or so but didn't push forward too much just let the drill do the work.

Falcon 269 · « **Reply #14 on:** 31 December 2018, 08:25:46 am »

When you say you ran the bit around for a minute or so, is that total drilling time per hole or do you mean you continued to turn for that length of time after you think you completed the cut?

You were right to apply light pressure and drill carefully as it's a fine bit and fragile if forced. Typically it takes about a minute to do each hole. I often used to stop after about 40 secs or so just to check visually and clear any swarf.

It is usually very easy to feel when the bit is approaching breakthrough because it gets tighter to turn in the hole. Incidentally, that's when it is at greatest risk of snapping, so go easy at that point if you're reading this and planning to follow Paul's lead.

The difference between a completed cut and a partial one is very clear to the eye. If it doesn't look like a proper hole, it ain't!

You can't do any damage by continuing to turn after making the full cut. The bit drops down into the space below the hole by about 1mm before it hits the bottom of the casting. A few more turns there isn't going to do any harm. Just be careful not to allow the bit to wobble and over-enlarge the hole you've cut.

ogri48 · « **Reply #15 on:** 31 December 2018, 10:04:34 am »

thanks mike. im going to take the carbs off again and check in a coupla weeks. When looking down the throats I could barely see the holes, even with glasses and good light. my old eyes aint all that now im older. ive ordered one of those LED lit magnifying glasses off ebay (along with a long reach 3mm t bar), and I figure now ive done it once getting the carbs on and off isn't such a big deal. Im also making up a template for the floats..i used a ruler with 14mm markd off but struggled to get a good line of sight in practice, so just want to recheck that too. im about 95% certain its ok, but I wanna be 100...

ram · « **Reply #16 on:** 31 December 2018, 11:55:25 am »

Quote from: ogri48 on 31 December 2018, 10:04:34 am

thanks mike. im going to take the carbs off again and check in a coupla weeks. When looking down the throats I could barely see the holes, even with glasses and good light. my old eyes aint all that now im older. ive ordered one of those LED lit magnifying glasses off ebay (along with a long reach 3mm t bar), and I figure now ive done it once getting the carbs on and off isn't such a big deal. Im also making up a template for the floats..i used a ruler with 14mm markd off but struggled to get a good line of sight in practice, so just want to recheck that too. im about 95% certain its ok, but I wanna be 100...

get a thin bit of wire like a paper clip and poke it down the hole to the bottom then mark or bend it when it enters the hole. put the drill back down as far as it goes and mark where it enters the hole. you can now compare the lengths to make sure you got to the bottom.

ogri48 · « **Reply #17 on:** 31 December 2018, 04:55:37 pm »

thanks mate. me and dave swapped bikes today...they used to run identically but the ivanised thou is definitely different..

Falcon 269 · « **Reply #18 on:** 01 January 2019, 09:55:58 am »

Quote from: ogri48 on 31 December 2018, 10:04:34 am

thanks mike. im going to take the carbs off again and check in a coupla weeks. When looking down the throats I could barely see the holes, even with glasses and good light. my old eyes aint all that now im older. ive ordered one of those LED lit magnifying glasses off ebay (along with a long reach 3mm t bar), and I figure now ive done it once getting the carbs on and off isn't such a big deal. Im also making up a template for the floats..i used a ruler with 14mm markd off but struggled to get a good line of sight in practice, so just want to recheck that too. im about 95% certain its ok, but I wanna be 100...

If you have a digital vernier gauge, use the depth end of that as a guide. I use as long socket head drive extension with a 3mm hex bit for the intake stub clamps.

Falcon 269 · « **Reply #19 on:** 01 January 2019, 10:01:02 am »

get a thin bit of wire like a paper clip and poke it down the hole to the bottom then mark or bend it when it enters the hole. put the drill back down as far as it goes and mark where it enters the hole. you can now compare the lengths to make sure you got to the bottom.

Unnecessary, really.

The thickness of the metal you're drilling through is less than 1mm and the void beneath is not much larger. You're either through or you're not. It is quite obvious when the hole is enlarged.

I would advise against messing around bending paper clips or similar in case you have the misfortune to break it off in the hole. Then the fun would really start ...

VNA - BMW Wank · « **Reply #20 on:** 02 January 2019, 03:45:02 pm »

Quote

It was fast before, and it was good before. But now, its definitely faster, and its definitely better. God I love this bike...

Well done Ogri. Brave man too. Mike did mine back in 2005 - slip on kit.

The things I noticed straight off (I can still remember) was a much stronger pick up at about 2.5K with the throttle wide open. Then that extra surge towards the top end. But best of all, no surging at small constant thottle openings. Mine will roll through towns at 30-35 mph in 6th, before I had to knock it down to 4th and it would still surge.
Well worth doing.

ogri48 · « **Reply #21 on:** 02 January 2019, 11:24:34 pm »

cheers vna..yup, both me and dave noticed the huge improvement in that area mate. Just wish id done it two years ago

One of the worst jobs was the daftest..ive connected all manner of shite to the battery over the last two years (heated grips, optimate lead, garmin hard wire, accessory fag lighter/usb unit)and messing about re connecting everything along with siting the fuse boxes and over long wiring was ridiculous..in prep for whipping them off again I cut everything back tonight, changed all the fuses for micro blades, then soldered /heat shrunk everything onto just the single leads..another job I should have done ages ago really..

mtread · « **Reply #22 on:** 03 January 2019, 12:07:33 am »

Mine's the top one

Falcon 269 · « **Reply #23 on:** 03 January 2019, 08:28:04 am »

That made me laugh, Paul. The number of Fazers I worked on that had battery wiring like yours, as though they were powering every accessory in Halfords.

Nice job now.

Dynspud · « **Reply #24 on:** 03 January 2019, 09:14:29 am »

Top job on the wiring mate

Another one on my to-do list now.........