As you say we do what we do and all seems to be okay, i've just never adjusted my chain on the sidestand ever before because i want to spin the wheel to hear if it's right or not, so it makes no practical sense to me.There must be a happy medium somewhere too 'cos i'm no lightweight, have taken pillion before, and also have a large top box which is normally half full of whatever and have never considered adjusting the chain to compensate for the extra weight one day, and the lack of it the next.
The yamaha service manual says to adjust the chain so there is 30-40mm of slack at the tightest point. Here is where it gets awkward though. It says to do it with both wheels on the ground. With both wheels on the ground, how are you meant to spin the wheel to find the tightest point?
Another thing i noticed as well recently is how much freer the chain feels after switching from chain lube, which i've used for decades, to using engine oil instead.It's very noticeable, especially how each individual link appears totally unrestricted in movement.
Quote from: darrsi on 20 October 2018, 12:31:57 pmAnother thing i noticed as well recently is how much freer the chain feels after switching from chain lube, which i've used for decades, to using engine oil instead.It's very noticeable, especially how each individual link appears totally unrestricted in movement.Yeah I've noticed that too. I think the oil gradually washes off whereas the sticky spray lube gets full of dirt and grit. I switched to gear oil years ago because the cans of spray lube are a rip off for the amount of applications you get out of them. For the same price you can get a 1lt bottle of gear oil that will last a life time if all you're doing with it is lubing chains. You do have to apply it more regularly than the spray lube though. And only apply a small amount to avoid fling. I brush it on with a tooth brush.
I support the bike by the frame, uncouple the linkage/shock, lift the rear wheel till the chain slack is at its least amount (you'll feel it go over centre when it loosens again). Support the wheel with chain at its tightest point, then adjust the chain in this position so slack is at a minimum, turn the wheel to a few different points and check slack in case of any sprocket high spots. Re assemble then put the bike on it's centre stand or paddock stand in my case as somebody chopped it off, pick a reference point on top or bottom of swinging arm immediately behind chain wear pad. Pull the chain away from the swinging arm, this is my correct chain slack. I then cut a wooden block to this thickness to use as a quick check gauge until chain/sprocket renewal. Make the block small enough to keep in your pocket or stash under the seat.This has worked fine for all my bikes except the Moto Guzzi.
Quote from: deeteefifty on 20 October 2018, 04:50:01 pmI support the bike by the frame, uncouple the linkage/shock, lift the rear wheel till the chain slack is at its least amount (you'll feel it go over centre when it loosens again). Support the wheel with chain at its tightest point, then adjust the chain in this position so slack is at a minimum, turn the wheel to a few different points and check slack in case of any sprocket high spots. Re assemble then put the bike on it's centre stand or paddock stand in my case as somebody chopped it off, pick a reference point on top or bottom of swinging arm immediately behind chain wear pad. Pull the chain away from the swinging arm, this is my correct chain slack. I then cut a wooden block to this thickness to use as a quick check gauge until chain/sprocket renewal. Make the block small enough to keep in your pocket or stash under the seat.This has worked fine for all my bikes except the Moto Guzzi.I just look at mine
Quote from: darrsi on 20 October 2018, 10:10:59 pmQuote from: deeteefifty on 20 October 2018, 04:50:01 pmI support the bike by the frame, uncouple the linkage/shock, lift the rear wheel till the chain slack is at its least amount (you'll feel it go over centre when it loosens again). Support the wheel with chain at its tightest point, then adjust the chain in this position so slack is at a minimum, turn the wheel to a few different points and check slack in case of any sprocket high spots. Re assemble then put the bike on it's centre stand or paddock stand in my case as somebody chopped it off, pick a reference point on top or bottom of swinging arm immediately behind chain wear pad. Pull the chain away from the swinging arm, this is my correct chain slack. I then cut a wooden block to this thickness to use as a quick check gauge until chain/sprocket renewal. Make the block small enough to keep in your pocket or stash under the seat.This has worked fine for all my bikes except the Moto Guzzi.I just look at mine WTF
Oh-oh , I better keep quiet about my procedure for weighing silencers .