Date: 28-03-24  Time: 18:24 pm

Author Topic: Std exhaust silencer weight  (Read 3727 times)

darrsi

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Re: Std exhaust silencer weight
« Reply #25 on: 20 October 2018, 12:14:30 pm »
As you say we do what we do and all seems to be okay, i've just never adjusted my chain on the sidestand ever before because i want to spin the wheel to hear if it's right or not, so it makes no practical sense to me.
There must be a happy medium somewhere too 'cos i'm no lightweight, have taken pillion before, and also have a large top box which is normally half full of whatever and have never considered adjusting the chain to compensate for the extra weight one day, and the lack of it the next.
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Re: Std exhaust silencer weight
« Reply #26 on: 20 October 2018, 12:23:34 pm »
The yamaha service manual says to adjust the chain so there is 30-40mm of slack at the tightest point. Here is where it gets awkward though. It says to do it with both wheels on the ground. With both wheels on the ground, how are you meant to spin the wheel to find the tightest point?
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darrsi

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Re: Std exhaust silencer weight
« Reply #27 on: 20 October 2018, 12:31:57 pm »
Another thing i noticed as well recently is how much freer the chain feels after switching from chain lube, which i've used for decades, to using engine oil instead.
It's very noticeable, especially how each individual link appears totally unrestricted in movement.
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Re: Std exhaust silencer weight
« Reply #28 on: 20 October 2018, 12:49:30 pm »
As you say we do what we do and all seems to be okay, i've just never adjusted my chain on the sidestand ever before because i want to spin the wheel to hear if it's right or not, so it makes no practical sense to me.
There must be a happy medium somewhere too 'cos i'm no lightweight, have taken pillion before, and also have a large top box which is normally half full of whatever and have never considered adjusting the chain to compensate for the extra weight one day, and the lack of it the next.
I guess they take into account all the variables that can happen when they come up with the 30-45mm limits so as long as you're in that range you're good. If you can get into that 30-45mm range by eye by adjusting it with the bike on the centre stand you're sorted, don't change a thing. If you were putting it up on the centre stand and then adjusting it with a ruler to 30-45mm when you put it back down on two wheels it might be over tightened a bit. But we're probably splitting hairs anyway I just like to look at things from an engineering/maths points of view

The yamaha service manual says to adjust the chain so there is 30-40mm of slack at the tightest point. Here is where it gets awkward though. It says to do it with both wheels on the ground. With both wheels on the ground, how are you meant to spin the wheel to find the tightest point?
Doing it on the side stand certainly does make the whole process more awkward. I just roll the bike back a few times and then flex the chain each time to see if there is a tighter area, then adjust it from there. It adds a bit of time to the process but with regular oiling how often do you even need to adjust the chain so the bit of extra effort of doing it on the side stand isn't a big deal. 

darrsi

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Re: Std exhaust silencer weight
« Reply #29 on: 20 October 2018, 12:57:43 pm »
You're right there, i only really have to consider adjusting the chain when the rear wheel needs removing, otherwise it simply doesn't get touched other than cleaning or lubing.
Again another thing i've noticed about using engine oil on it is that i don't particularly even find it necessary to clean the chain so often in comparison to when i used to use the chain lube. It doesn't get anywhere near as dirty or gritty as before, which can only be a bonus.
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Re: Std exhaust silencer weight
« Reply #30 on: 20 October 2018, 01:02:52 pm »
Another thing i noticed as well recently is how much freer the chain feels after switching from chain lube, which i've used for decades, to using engine oil instead.
It's very noticeable, especially how each individual link appears totally unrestricted in movement.
Yeah I've noticed that too. I think the oil gradually washes off whereas the sticky spray lube gets full of dirt and grit. I switched to gear oil years ago because the cans of spray lube are a rip off for the amount of applications you get out of them. For the same price you can get a 1lt bottle of gear oil that will last a life time if all you're doing with it is lubing chains. You do have to apply it more regularly than the spray lube though. And only apply a small amount to avoid fling. I brush it on with a tooth brush.

darrsi

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Re: Std exhaust silencer weight
« Reply #31 on: 20 October 2018, 01:10:21 pm »
Another thing i noticed as well recently is how much freer the chain feels after switching from chain lube, which i've used for decades, to using engine oil instead.
It's very noticeable, especially how each individual link appears totally unrestricted in movement.
Yeah I've noticed that too. I think the oil gradually washes off whereas the sticky spray lube gets full of dirt and grit. I switched to gear oil years ago because the cans of spray lube are a rip off for the amount of applications you get out of them. For the same price you can get a 1lt bottle of gear oil that will last a life time if all you're doing with it is lubing chains. You do have to apply it more regularly than the spray lube though. And only apply a small amount to avoid fling. I brush it on with a tooth brush.


Maybe i should try gear oil, as it's a bit heavier than engine oil.
I've just been using a paintbrush when the chain is warm and you can really see that every part of the links get properly oiled.
Had to put newspaper down in the garage for excess drips but that's hardly a big deal.
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His Dudeness

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Re: Std exhaust silencer weight
« Reply #32 on: 20 October 2018, 01:17:06 pm »
It does seem to hold on a bit better alright but you do still get a few drips. Not many though as long as you just give it a light coat.

deeteefifty

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Re: Std exhaust silencer weight
« Reply #33 on: 20 October 2018, 04:50:01 pm »
I support the bike by the frame, uncouple the linkage/shock, lift the rear wheel till the chain slack is at its least amount (you'll feel it go over centre when it loosens again). Support the wheel with chain at its tightest point, then adjust the chain in this position so slack is at a minimum, turn the wheel to a few different points and check slack in case of any sprocket high spots. Re assemble then put the bike on it's centre stand or paddock stand in my case as somebody chopped it off, pick a reference point  on top or bottom of swinging arm immediately behind chain wear pad. Pull the chain away from the swinging arm, this is my correct chain slack. I then cut a wooden block to this thickness to use as a quick check gauge until chain/sprocket renewal. Make the block small enough to keep in your pocket or stash under the seat.
This has worked fine for all my bikes except the Moto Guzzi.

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Re: Std exhaust silencer weight
« Reply #34 on: 20 October 2018, 04:57:23 pm »
PUT It on a paddock stand that goes onto the swing arm does the same thing as having both wheels on the ground , or what i do is put it on the centre stand and use a ratchet strap from the swing arm to the frame and tighten it till the chain gets to its tightest point then adjust from there

tommyardin

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Re: Std exhaust silencer weight
« Reply #35 on: 20 October 2018, 05:08:37 pm »
This what the manual says (See Pics) pic 2 is the continuation of first pic but on the next page. I agree with some of the remarks in here, Centre Stand tightest spot on the lower chain run, push the chain up without excessive force, and, if the chain just touches the rear of the chain guide on the bottom of the swinging arm you are about right.

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Re: Std exhaust silencer weight
« Reply #36 on: 20 October 2018, 07:56:01 pm »
Also these chain tightening instructions cover YZF & FZS, the YZF only had a side stand. :)   

darrsi

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Re: Std exhaust silencer weight
« Reply #37 on: 20 October 2018, 10:10:59 pm »
I support the bike by the frame, uncouple the linkage/shock, lift the rear wheel till the chain slack is at its least amount (you'll feel it go over centre when it loosens again). Support the wheel with chain at its tightest point, then adjust the chain in this position so slack is at a minimum, turn the wheel to a few different points and check slack in case of any sprocket high spots. Re assemble then put the bike on it's centre stand or paddock stand in my case as somebody chopped it off, pick a reference point  on top or bottom of swinging arm immediately behind chain wear pad. Pull the chain away from the swinging arm, this is my correct chain slack. I then cut a wooden block to this thickness to use as a quick check gauge until chain/sprocket renewal. Make the block small enough to keep in your pocket or stash under the seat.
This has worked fine for all my bikes except the Moto Guzzi.


I just look at mine  :lol
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tommyardin

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Re: Std exhaust silencer weight
« Reply #38 on: 20 October 2018, 11:01:44 pm »
I support the bike by the frame, uncouple the linkage/shock, lift the rear wheel till the chain slack is at its least amount (you'll feel it go over centre when it loosens again). Support the wheel with chain at its tightest point, then adjust the chain in this position so slack is at a minimum, turn the wheel to a few different points and check slack in case of any sprocket high spots. Re assemble then put the bike on it's centre stand or paddock stand in my case as somebody chopped it off, pick a reference point  on top or bottom of swinging arm immediately behind chain wear pad. Pull the chain away from the swinging arm, this is my correct chain slack. I then cut a wooden block to this thickness to use as a quick check gauge until chain/sprocket renewal. Make the block small enough to keep in your pocket or stash under the seat.
This has worked fine for all my bikes except the Moto Guzzi.


I just look at mine  :lol




WTF  :eek

darrsi

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Re: Std exhaust silencer weight
« Reply #39 on: 21 October 2018, 01:19:33 am »
I support the bike by the frame, uncouple the linkage/shock, lift the rear wheel till the chain slack is at its least amount (you'll feel it go over centre when it loosens again). Support the wheel with chain at its tightest point, then adjust the chain in this position so slack is at a minimum, turn the wheel to a few different points and check slack in case of any sprocket high spots. Re assemble then put the bike on it's centre stand or paddock stand in my case as somebody chopped it off, pick a reference point  on top or bottom of swinging arm immediately behind chain wear pad. Pull the chain away from the swinging arm, this is my correct chain slack. I then cut a wooden block to this thickness to use as a quick check gauge until chain/sprocket renewal. Make the block small enough to keep in your pocket or stash under the seat.
This has worked fine for all my bikes except the Moto Guzzi.


I just look at mine  :lol




WTF  :eek


Either right or wrong  :lol


31 years of bike riding tends to give you a 'hunch'  :lol
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deeteefifty

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Re: Std exhaust silencer weight
« Reply #40 on: 21 October 2018, 09:15:00 am »
Oh-oh :eek , I better keep quiet about my procedure for weighing silencers :z .

darrsi

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Re: Std exhaust silencer weight
« Reply #41 on: 21 October 2018, 09:18:20 am »
Oh-oh :eek , I better keep quiet about my procedure for weighing silencers :z .


Weighing silencers.....please enlighten us?
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deeteefifty

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Re: Std exhaust silencer weight
« Reply #42 on: 21 October 2018, 05:37:55 pm »
Just referring to the original post for anyone without scales, it involves a bath of water and a Greek. But enough of that.
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Re: Std exhaust silencer weight
« Reply #43 on: 24 November 2018, 06:39:39 pm »
when it comes to chain adjustment just going by basic engineering principles, you can only adjust by the tightest position. i have always sat on bike so its under load wheel it forward or spin it to find tightest spot then sit on it and adjust from there, its not rocket science, but if you dont adjust the tightest spot its gonna be too tight and put strain on gearbox. when it comes to chain lube i use gear oil, engine oil is too thin and gets all over rear tyre. i have also used chainsaw oil as it stays on but maybe being too sticky has its disadvantages