Quote from: Grant1Shepherd on 19 September 2018, 12:33:37 amQuote from: darrsi on 18 September 2018, 07:07:49 amQuote from: Grant1Shepherd on 18 September 2018, 12:53:03 amQuote from: darrsi on 17 September 2018, 06:53:04 amSomething else to consider, when the carbs were balanced how old/what condition was your air filter in?It's quite important that the air filter is freely breathing otherwise the balancing process can give a false reading.And do that TPS check, it only takes a minute to do and it's very possible that could be the problem too, especially with no known history of the replacement carbs. http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php/topic,22722.msg262253.html#msg262253Hi mate, thank you for all your responses so far, I really appreciate it, I have a question about the TPS, if there was an issue with my TPS would there not be an issue with my throttle at all? Because my throttle is perfect to be honest, I have never had an issue with the throttle at all, however I don't really know about this kinda of stuff so please let me know. thanks in advance.They tend to break down gradually rather than just stop working completely, which is why it can go unnoticed for a while.Idle can be a little unstable, but it's most noticeable at lower speeds around 2500rpm when you'll need to use the clutch more than normal as the bike can feel a bit jerky to control.Once you open the throttle right up it's not as bad but will still be wrong.It's one of those things that creep up on you, and only when it's corrected will you then realize how wrong it was before.The link i posted above explains how to check it, and what the codes mean.The TPS is the black gadget that is wired on the right side of the carbs. To check it only takes about a minute to do. If you pull the plastic protective cover back towards the left you'll see better where the catch is that needs releasing to unclip it.Just carefully separate the two parts then turn the ignition key on (don't start the bike).The RPM needle will go back and forth from 0rpm to 3000rpm. This is showing either a totally faulty TPS.......or......it's unplugged.Then with the ignition still switched on, just plug the two parts of the TPS back together........and see where the RPM needle goes this time.5000rpm is the correct position.If the needle stays on 0rpm or 10,000rpm then the TPS needs adjusting slightly to move the position of the needle back to 5000rpm.Actually, just click on the above link, it's a bit more detailed, and let us know what you find.Another useful link here as well http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php?topic=91.0So basically (sorry to have to dull it down for myself) if the RPM needle goes to 3000rpm at any point during this check, it's a fault code? I don't need no fancy diagnostic machine? The bikes RPM needle will go to 3000rpm if the TPS needs replacing?If once I put it back together (with ignition still on) and it stays on 0rpm or goes to 10,000rpm it just adjusting?and if it just goes to 5000rpm, it's fine?Is that the basic dulled down version? 3000rpm is unplugged, or TOTALLY knackered 5000rpm is good0rpm or 10,000rpm needs adjusting........but is a sign it's possibly starting to fail.So adjust it then keep checking it every other day and see if it has stayed in the 5000rpm position.....if it has moved again then time to replace.Hopefully it will be on the 5000rpm position and a couple of minutes later you can forget about all this.If you do think it may be faulty and needs replacing, BUY A NEW ONE. Do not buy a used one, it will just fail on you as well. I bought 2 used ones and they both failed, which is why i know the symptoms so well, but once i bought a brand new one everything has been fine.This is as cheap as they get if you do need one. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Yamaha-FZS-600-H-Fazer-2000-Tourmax-Throttle-Position-Sensor/301948941019?epid=647315499&hash=item464d8f32db:g:5hIAAOSwO~VahGo9IMPORTANT TIP: If your needle does sit on 10,000rpm DO NOT SWITCH THE KEY TO THE OFF POSITION. Either leave it on, or start the engine and it will reset itself correctly.What happens is that simple gravity makes the RPM needle fall to the right side of the clock, instead of the left, so the needle will just sit on the wrong side of the pin near 0rpm trying to turn clockwise, but obviously can't.If this happens you'll need to take the plastic shield off the fairing, take the clocks off and apart, then physically move the needle anti-clockwise back round to the 0rpm position with your finger.It's not difficult, just an unnecessary and time consuming thing to do that can be easily avoided. And don't forget, you'll need a size T25 security torx key if any adjustment is needed, without that you won't be able to adjust it anyway, although you can do the check to see if the position is good or not.So either borrow one or buy the style of your choice, but it's worth having in your tool box anyway.https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2380057.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xt25+tamper+proof+torx.TRS0&_nkw=t25+tamper+proof+torx&_sacat=0
Quote from: darrsi on 18 September 2018, 07:07:49 amQuote from: Grant1Shepherd on 18 September 2018, 12:53:03 amQuote from: darrsi on 17 September 2018, 06:53:04 amSomething else to consider, when the carbs were balanced how old/what condition was your air filter in?It's quite important that the air filter is freely breathing otherwise the balancing process can give a false reading.And do that TPS check, it only takes a minute to do and it's very possible that could be the problem too, especially with no known history of the replacement carbs. http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php/topic,22722.msg262253.html#msg262253Hi mate, thank you for all your responses so far, I really appreciate it, I have a question about the TPS, if there was an issue with my TPS would there not be an issue with my throttle at all? Because my throttle is perfect to be honest, I have never had an issue with the throttle at all, however I don't really know about this kinda of stuff so please let me know. thanks in advance.They tend to break down gradually rather than just stop working completely, which is why it can go unnoticed for a while.Idle can be a little unstable, but it's most noticeable at lower speeds around 2500rpm when you'll need to use the clutch more than normal as the bike can feel a bit jerky to control.Once you open the throttle right up it's not as bad but will still be wrong.It's one of those things that creep up on you, and only when it's corrected will you then realize how wrong it was before.The link i posted above explains how to check it, and what the codes mean.The TPS is the black gadget that is wired on the right side of the carbs. To check it only takes about a minute to do. If you pull the plastic protective cover back towards the left you'll see better where the catch is that needs releasing to unclip it.Just carefully separate the two parts then turn the ignition key on (don't start the bike).The RPM needle will go back and forth from 0rpm to 3000rpm. This is showing either a totally faulty TPS.......or......it's unplugged.Then with the ignition still switched on, just plug the two parts of the TPS back together........and see where the RPM needle goes this time.5000rpm is the correct position.If the needle stays on 0rpm or 10,000rpm then the TPS needs adjusting slightly to move the position of the needle back to 5000rpm.Actually, just click on the above link, it's a bit more detailed, and let us know what you find.Another useful link here as well http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php?topic=91.0So basically (sorry to have to dull it down for myself) if the RPM needle goes to 3000rpm at any point during this check, it's a fault code? I don't need no fancy diagnostic machine? The bikes RPM needle will go to 3000rpm if the TPS needs replacing?If once I put it back together (with ignition still on) and it stays on 0rpm or goes to 10,000rpm it just adjusting?and if it just goes to 5000rpm, it's fine?Is that the basic dulled down version?
Quote from: Grant1Shepherd on 18 September 2018, 12:53:03 amQuote from: darrsi on 17 September 2018, 06:53:04 amSomething else to consider, when the carbs were balanced how old/what condition was your air filter in?It's quite important that the air filter is freely breathing otherwise the balancing process can give a false reading.And do that TPS check, it only takes a minute to do and it's very possible that could be the problem too, especially with no known history of the replacement carbs. http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php/topic,22722.msg262253.html#msg262253Hi mate, thank you for all your responses so far, I really appreciate it, I have a question about the TPS, if there was an issue with my TPS would there not be an issue with my throttle at all? Because my throttle is perfect to be honest, I have never had an issue with the throttle at all, however I don't really know about this kinda of stuff so please let me know. thanks in advance.They tend to break down gradually rather than just stop working completely, which is why it can go unnoticed for a while.Idle can be a little unstable, but it's most noticeable at lower speeds around 2500rpm when you'll need to use the clutch more than normal as the bike can feel a bit jerky to control.Once you open the throttle right up it's not as bad but will still be wrong.It's one of those things that creep up on you, and only when it's corrected will you then realize how wrong it was before.The link i posted above explains how to check it, and what the codes mean.The TPS is the black gadget that is wired on the right side of the carbs. To check it only takes about a minute to do. If you pull the plastic protective cover back towards the left you'll see better where the catch is that needs releasing to unclip it.Just carefully separate the two parts then turn the ignition key on (don't start the bike).The RPM needle will go back and forth from 0rpm to 3000rpm. This is showing either a totally faulty TPS.......or......it's unplugged.Then with the ignition still switched on, just plug the two parts of the TPS back together........and see where the RPM needle goes this time.5000rpm is the correct position.If the needle stays on 0rpm or 10,000rpm then the TPS needs adjusting slightly to move the position of the needle back to 5000rpm.Actually, just click on the above link, it's a bit more detailed, and let us know what you find.Another useful link here as well http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php?topic=91.0
Quote from: darrsi on 17 September 2018, 06:53:04 amSomething else to consider, when the carbs were balanced how old/what condition was your air filter in?It's quite important that the air filter is freely breathing otherwise the balancing process can give a false reading.And do that TPS check, it only takes a minute to do and it's very possible that could be the problem too, especially with no known history of the replacement carbs. http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php/topic,22722.msg262253.html#msg262253Hi mate, thank you for all your responses so far, I really appreciate it, I have a question about the TPS, if there was an issue with my TPS would there not be an issue with my throttle at all? Because my throttle is perfect to be honest, I have never had an issue with the throttle at all, however I don't really know about this kinda of stuff so please let me know. thanks in advance.
Something else to consider, when the carbs were balanced how old/what condition was your air filter in?It's quite important that the air filter is freely breathing otherwise the balancing process can give a false reading.And do that TPS check, it only takes a minute to do and it's very possible that could be the problem too, especially with no known history of the replacement carbs. http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php/topic,22722.msg262253.html#msg262253
https://www.fowlersparts.co.uk/search/part/5RB2517G00The faulty rotor sensor will not effect the setting of the T.P.S.
So these rotas, should I be removing mine and re-greasing after 20 years.
The two lugs that stick out the side of the sensor need to be located properly into the slots of the inner wheel before putting the wheel back onto the forks.The sensor housing also needs to slide into a notch up the inside of the forks as well making it a bit of a fiddly job. Once you've done it a couple of times and everything is apparent then it will become easier to do in time.To keep the sensor and housing in place i normally pack the area with thick lithium grease because it is a constantly moving part, which i will also use on the spindle as well after giving it a good clean up. Be warned though, if you don't line those lugs up correctly then you will be back to square one and ordering another sensor because as soon as you tighten the spindle nut up you will hear the lugs crack. I did it the very first time i put the front wheel back on, but it's a mistake that you very quickly learn not to do again. One of these will last you forever https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Granville-Multi-Purpose-LM2-Lithium-Grease-Car-Wheel-Bearings-Joints-etc-500g/372222336729?hash=item56aa2e1ed9:g:VYoAAOSwW6xahFGi
Quote from: darrsi on 21 September 2018, 06:11:09 amThe two lugs that stick out the side of the sensor need to be located properly into the slots of the inner wheel before putting the wheel back onto the forks.The sensor housing also needs to slide into a notch up the inside of the forks as well making it a bit of a fiddly job. Once you've done it a couple of times and everything is apparent then it will become easier to do in time.To keep the sensor and housing in place i normally pack the area with thick lithium grease because it is a constantly moving part, which i will also use on the spindle as well after giving it a good clean up. Be warned though, if you don't line those lugs up correctly then you will be back to square one and ordering another sensor because as soon as you tighten the spindle nut up you will hear the lugs crack. I did it the very first time i put the front wheel back on, but it's a mistake that you very quickly learn not to do again. One of these will last you forever https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Granville-Multi-Purpose-LM2-Lithium-Grease-Car-Wheel-Bearings-Joints-etc-500g/372222336729?hash=item56aa2e1ed9:g:VYoAAOSwW6xahFGiThanks for the tips and heads up about the grease, how many rotor sensors are there on the bike? is it just one on the front wheel or is there 2 of them on the front wheel?