Date: 28-03-24  Time: 13:28 pm

Author Topic: Whizzing Sound Coming From Engine  (Read 3721 times)

Grant1Shepherd

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Re: Whizzing Sound Coming From Engine
« Reply #25 on: 20 September 2018, 12:20:32 am »
Something else to consider, when the carbs were balanced how old/what condition was your air filter in?
It's quite important that the air filter is freely breathing otherwise the balancing process can give a false reading.


And do that TPS check, it only takes a minute to do and it's very possible that could be the problem too, especially with no known history of the replacement carbs.


 http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php/topic,22722.msg262253.html#msg262253



Hi mate, thank you for all your responses so far, I really appreciate it, I have a question about the TPS, if there was an issue with my TPS would there not be an issue with my throttle at all? Because my throttle is perfect to be honest, I have never had an issue with the throttle at all, however I don't really know about this kinda of stuff so please let me know. thanks in advance.



They tend to break down gradually rather than just stop working completely, which is why it can go unnoticed for a while.
Idle can be a little unstable, but it's most noticeable at lower speeds around 2500rpm when you'll need to use the clutch more than normal as the bike can feel a bit jerky to control.
Once you open the throttle right up it's not as bad but will still be wrong.
It's one of those things that creep up on you, and only when it's corrected will you then realize how wrong it was before.


The link i posted above explains how to check it, and what the codes mean.


The TPS is the black gadget that is wired on the right side of the carbs.   


To check it only takes about a minute to do. If you pull the plastic protective cover back towards the left you'll see better where the catch is that needs releasing to unclip it.


Just carefully separate the two parts then turn the ignition key on (don't start the bike).


The RPM needle will go back and forth from 0rpm to 3000rpm. This is showing either a totally faulty TPS.......or......it's unplugged.


Then with the ignition still switched on, just plug the two parts of the TPS back together........and see where the RPM needle goes this time.


5000rpm is the correct position.


If the needle stays on 0rpm or 10,000rpm then the TPS needs adjusting slightly to move the position of the needle back to 5000rpm.




Actually, just click on the above link, it's a bit more detailed, and let us know what you find.


Another useful link here as well     http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php?topic=91.0



So basically (sorry to have to dull it down for myself) if the RPM needle goes to 3000rpm at any point during this check, it's a fault code? I don't need no fancy diagnostic machine? The bikes RPM needle will go to 3000rpm if the TPS needs replacing?


If once I put it back together (with ignition still on) and it stays on 0rpm or goes to 10,000rpm it just adjusting?


and if it just goes to 5000rpm, it's fine?


Is that the basic dulled down version?  :lol



3000rpm is unplugged, or TOTALLY knackered


5000rpm is good


0rpm or 10,000rpm needs adjusting........but is a sign it's possibly starting to fail.
So adjust it then keep checking it every other day and see if it has stayed in the 5000rpm position.....if it has moved again then time to replace.


Hopefully it will be on the 5000rpm position and a couple of minutes later you can forget about all this.


If you do think it may be faulty and needs replacing, BUY A NEW ONE. Do not buy a used one, it will just fail on you as well. I bought 2 used ones and they both failed, which is why i know the symptoms so well, but once i bought a brand new one everything has been fine.


This is as cheap as they get if you do need one.  https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Yamaha-FZS-600-H-Fazer-2000-Tourmax-Throttle-Position-Sensor/301948941019?epid=647315499&hash=item464d8f32db:g:5hIAAOSwO~VahGo9




IMPORTANT TIP: If your needle does sit on 10,000rpm DO NOT SWITCH THE KEY TO THE OFF POSITION. Either leave it on, or start the engine and it will reset itself correctly.
What happens is that simple gravity makes the RPM needle fall to the right side of the clock, instead of the left, so the needle will just sit on the wrong side of the pin near 0rpm trying to turn clockwise, but obviously can't.
If this happens you'll need to take the plastic shield off the fairing, take the clocks off and apart, then physically move the needle anti-clockwise back round to the 0rpm position with your finger.
It's not difficult, just an unnecessary and time consuming thing to do that can be easily avoided. 


And don't forget, you'll need a size T25 security torx key if any adjustment is needed, without that you won't be able to adjust it anyway, although you can do the check to see if the position is good or not.
So either borrow one or buy the style of your choice, but it's worth having in your tool box anyway.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2380057.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xt25+tamper+proof+torx.TRS0&_nkw=t25+tamper+proof+torx&_sacat=0



Thanks again for the advice and tips, and for the links in case I have to buy the replacement part.


Today whilst I riding my speedo suddenly dropped to 0mph and stopped working even though I was still moving, I pulled over and turned the bike on and off and it all it did was make the speedo sometimes suddenly shoot up to 30 or 40mph and then shoot back to 0mph and stop working, so now I have this issue to sort out as well.


I think it'll be the sensor at the front wheel, when I had my tyres replaced the guy at the shop said they noticed the sensor was a little damaged and probably wouldn't last much longer, looks like 2 month later he is right.


Should the fact that my speedo has stopped working affect this test? it is only the speedo that isn't working, all the other dials and the clock are working fine.


Also do you know what to search for when looking for the speedo sensor at the front wheel? as in the name of it? Don't worry if you don't, you've already helped me out a lot. Thanks in advance.

bandit

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Re: Whizzing Sound Coming From Engine
« Reply #26 on: 20 September 2018, 06:49:47 am »
https://www.fowlersparts.co.uk/search/part/5RB2517G00


The faulty rotor sensor will not effect the setting of the  T.P.S.  :)

Grant1Shepherd

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Re: Whizzing Sound Coming From Engine
« Reply #27 on: 20 September 2018, 11:23:02 pm »
https://www.fowlersparts.co.uk/search/part/5RB2517G00


The faulty rotor sensor will not effect the setting of the  T.P.S.  :)


Is that what's it called? a rotor sensor, a mechanic just told me it was gonna be a faulty speed sensor?


Thanks in advance for your comments

darrsi

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Re: Whizzing Sound Coming From Engine
« Reply #28 on: 21 September 2018, 06:11:09 am »
The two lugs that stick out the side of the sensor need to be located properly into the slots of the inner wheel before putting the wheel back onto the forks.
The sensor housing also needs to slide into a notch up the inside of the forks as well making it a bit of a fiddly job. Once you've done it a couple of times and everything is apparent then it will become easier to do in time.
To keep the sensor and housing in place i normally pack the area with thick lithium grease because it is a constantly moving part, which i will also use on the spindle as well after giving it a good clean up.   


Be warned though, if you don't line those lugs up correctly then you will be back to square one and ordering another sensor because as soon as you tighten the spindle nut up you will hear the lugs crack.
I did it the very first time i put the front wheel back on, but it's a mistake that you very quickly learn not to do again.


One of these will last you forever   https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Granville-Multi-Purpose-LM2-Lithium-Grease-Car-Wheel-Bearings-Joints-etc-500g/372222336729?hash=item56aa2e1ed9:g:VYoAAOSwW6xahFGi



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fazersharp

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Re: Whizzing Sound Coming From Engine
« Reply #29 on: 21 September 2018, 08:27:22 am »
So these rotas, should I be removing mine and re-greasing after 20 years.
I don't do rain or threat there of. dry rider only with no shame.

darrsi

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Re: Whizzing Sound Coming From Engine
« Reply #30 on: 21 September 2018, 12:01:53 pm »
So these rotas, should I be removing mine and re-greasing after 20 years.


Should be done every time the wheel's removed, just pack the area full of heavy grease.
I'd say 20 years is probably a good time to start too.  :lol
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Grant1Shepherd

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Re: Whizzing Sound Coming From Engine
« Reply #31 on: 24 September 2018, 01:19:50 am »
The two lugs that stick out the side of the sensor need to be located properly into the slots of the inner wheel before putting the wheel back onto the forks.
The sensor housing also needs to slide into a notch up the inside of the forks as well making it a bit of a fiddly job. Once you've done it a couple of times and everything is apparent then it will become easier to do in time.
To keep the sensor and housing in place i normally pack the area with thick lithium grease because it is a constantly moving part, which i will also use on the spindle as well after giving it a good clean up.   


Be warned though, if you don't line those lugs up correctly then you will be back to square one and ordering another sensor because as soon as you tighten the spindle nut up you will hear the lugs crack.
I did it the very first time i put the front wheel back on, but it's a mistake that you very quickly learn not to do again.


One of these will last you forever   https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Granville-Multi-Purpose-LM2-Lithium-Grease-Car-Wheel-Bearings-Joints-etc-500g/372222336729?hash=item56aa2e1ed9:g:VYoAAOSwW6xahFGi


Thanks for the tips and heads up about the grease, how many rotor sensors are there on the bike? is it just one on the front wheel or is there 2 of them on the front wheel?

bandit

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Re: Whizzing Sound Coming From Engine
« Reply #32 on: 24 September 2018, 08:39:30 am »
The two lugs that stick out the side of the sensor need to be located properly into the slots of the inner wheel before putting the wheel back onto the forks.
The sensor housing also needs to slide into a notch up the inside of the forks as well making it a bit of a fiddly job. Once you've done it a couple of times and everything is apparent then it will become easier to do in time.
To keep the sensor and housing in place i normally pack the area with thick lithium grease because it is a constantly moving part, which i will also use on the spindle as well after giving it a good clean up.   


Be warned though, if you don't line those lugs up correctly then you will be back to square one and ordering another sensor because as soon as you tighten the spindle nut up you will hear the lugs crack.
I did it the very first time i put the front wheel back on, but it's a mistake that you very quickly learn not to do again.


One of these will last you forever   https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Granville-Multi-Purpose-LM2-Lithium-Grease-Car-Wheel-Bearings-Joints-etc-500g/372222336729?hash=item56aa2e1ed9:g:VYoAAOSwW6xahFGi


Thanks for the tips and heads up about the grease, how many rotor sensors are there on the bike? is it just one on the front wheel or is there 2 of them on the front wheel?








Just the one on the front wheel. :)

darrsi

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Re: Whizzing Sound Coming From Engine
« Reply #33 on: 24 September 2018, 07:05:31 pm »
The two lugs that stick out the side of the sensor need to be located properly into the slots of the inner wheel before putting the wheel back onto the forks.
The sensor housing also needs to slide into a notch up the inside of the forks as well making it a bit of a fiddly job. Once you've done it a couple of times and everything is apparent then it will become easier to do in time.
To keep the sensor and housing in place i normally pack the area with thick lithium grease because it is a constantly moving part, which i will also use on the spindle as well after giving it a good clean up.   


Be warned though, if you don't line those lugs up correctly then you will be back to square one and ordering another sensor because as soon as you tighten the spindle nut up you will hear the lugs crack.
I did it the very first time i put the front wheel back on, but it's a mistake that you very quickly learn not to do again.


One of these will last you forever   https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Granville-Multi-Purpose-LM2-Lithium-Grease-Car-Wheel-Bearings-Joints-etc-500g/372222336729?hash=item56aa2e1ed9:g:VYoAAOSwW6xahFGi


Thanks for the tips and heads up about the grease, how many rotor sensors are there on the bike? is it just one on the front wheel or is there 2 of them on the front wheel?


Had my front wheel off on Saturday to get a new tyre fitted.
Shoving loads of grease around where the sensor sits also helps keep the sensor housing in place when lining it up to put the wheel back on.

More people are born because of alcohol than will ever die from it.