Date: 28-03-24  Time: 19:18 pm

Author Topic: Slipping Clutch  (Read 1609 times)

Grant1Shepherd

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Slipping Clutch
« on: 28 August 2018, 11:57:35 pm »
Hey boys and girls


Wondering if any of you could help me once again.


Recently when I've been riding the bike there will come a moment where I go to throw on the throttle and give it some when all of a sudden I move no where and the engine just starts revving it's tits off, I can't really describe it other then it's like pulling the clutch in and revving it expect for when it happens my hand isn't even engaging my clutch or anything.


It doesn't happen all the time, just occasionally but it's definitely something I want to sort out.


My guess would be the clutch is slipping and my other guess would be that it's because of my clutch plates, however I am no expert and so I thought I'd come on here to ask for some opinions before I spend lord knows how much on new clutch plates only for it not to solve anything.


Many thanks in advance   

Fazerider

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Re: Slipping Clutch
« Reply #1 on: 29 August 2018, 12:25:05 am »

That does sound like a slipping clutch.
Check the cable adjustment is correct at both ends, handlebar and the actuating mechanism in the sprocket cover.
The clutch on the Fazer is a bit marginal. When new it’s good enough to transmit peak torque, but the springs gradually weaken with age and then it’ll slip, especially when the bike’s not fully warm and the oil is thick.
So unless you suspect that someone’s done an oil change using car oil with moly and the cable adjustment is correct, it’s probably just the springs that need changing.
Stick to Yamaha ones. Fractionally stiffer springs would be a good idea but for the fact that nobody makes ‘em. You can find heavy duty ones, but they’re massively stiffer and make the bike a nightmare in slow traffic.

darrsi

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Re: Slipping Clutch
« Reply #2 on: 29 August 2018, 06:33:06 am »
Do the above sooner rather than later, otherwise you really will burn the clutch plates out.
Invest in a deep set 12mm ring spanner to make the job of adjusting the clutch at the bottom end much easier in the future.
Also if you've not adjusted the lower clutch cable before you might wanna borrow a 6 sided 12mm socket rather than a 12 point one to initially undo the nut, to avoid rounding it off. The nut needs a bit of a crack to undo it and a 6 sided nut does the job much more efficiently.


https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Heavy-Duty-Metric-Deep-Offset-Ring-Spanner-Spanners-12mm-32mm-Set-Individual/322825223175?epid=1259720676&hash=item4b29e1fc07:m:mkxBT2_5i8eJA5UX1xvlAOA
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deeteefifty

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Re: Slipping Clutch
« Reply #3 on: 29 August 2018, 09:56:55 am »
And check the clutch cable hasn't seized too.

F4celess

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Re: Slipping Clutch
« Reply #4 on: 29 August 2018, 01:46:26 pm »
Have you had the Sprocket cover off at all recently? As this movement can affect the adjustment screw placement in relation to the Clutch actuator rod.
I experienced a slipping clutch because of this in the past.

Pull out the rubber grommet towards the bottom of the sprocket cover.
Unscrew the locking nut so its loose on the thread of the adjustment screw.
Unwind/back out the screw so its also loose, then slowly wind in the screw until you feel resistance. Then back it out 1/4 turn.
Finally screw back up the locking nut until tight, making sure the adjustment screw doesn't turn in the centre.


That does sound like a slipping clutch.
Check the cable adjustment is correct at both ends, handlebar and the actuating mechanism in the sprocket cover.
....
« Last Edit: 29 August 2018, 02:21:30 pm by F4celess »

Grant1Shepherd

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Re: Slipping Clutch
« Reply #5 on: 30 August 2018, 01:39:07 am »
Been using the bike for cummuting to and from work recently, I've noticed this problem only appears to be happening when I'm giving it a lot of throttle and moving across a lane to overtake something, all the time it happens when I go up on the raised lines, and earlier there was a small dip in the road and I was gunning it down that road and as soon as I went down this dip (literally a few inches the revs just shot up and the bike was no longer accelerating for a second.


I don't know if any of this is helpful but basically this is the only time it happens, doesn't happen when I'm just riding fast in a straight line or a bend unless there is a change in the surface height. 

darrsi

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Re: Slipping Clutch
« Reply #6 on: 30 August 2018, 06:08:35 am »
Screw in the top end first, adjust the bottom end using the nut and screw, then readjust the top again until you have the correct freeplay on the lever.
It'll more than likely sort things out. You want about 5mm freeplay with the lever so that it moves back and forth loosely, before you need to pull it in.
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Fazerider

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Re: Slipping Clutch
« Reply #7 on: 30 August 2018, 09:52:53 am »
Been using the bike for cummuting to and from work recently, I've noticed this problem only appears to be happening when I'm giving it a lot of throttle and moving across a lane to overtake something, all the time it happens when I go up on the raised lines, and earlier there was a small dip in the road and I was gunning it down that road and as soon as I went down this dip (literally a few inches the revs just shot up and the bike was no longer accelerating for a second.


I don't know if any of this is helpful but basically this is the only time it happens, doesn't happen when I'm just riding fast in a straight line or a bend unless there is a change in the surface height.

If it's the clutch then you'll be able to provoke slip at 8,500 rpm with the throttle fully open (regardless of what gear you’re in). A long steep uphill straight is obviously best for this sort of test.
Are you sure the slip isn’t the rear wheel losing traction? If it only happens when the road gets bumpy perhaps you should be taking a look at the suspension linkages, rear shock and tyre.

Grant1Shepherd

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Re: Slipping Clutch
« Reply #8 on: 30 August 2018, 02:30:12 pm »
Been using the bike for cummuting to and from work recently, I've noticed this problem only appears to be happening when I'm giving it a lot of throttle and moving across a lane to overtake something, all the time it happens when I go up on the raised lines, and earlier there was a small dip in the road and I was gunning it down that road and as soon as I went down this dip (literally a few inches the revs just shot up and the bike was no longer accelerating for a second.


I don't know if any of this is helpful but basically this is the only time it happens, doesn't happen when I'm just riding fast in a straight line or a bend unless there is a change in the surface height.

If it's the clutch then you'll be able to provoke slip at 8,500 rpm with the throttle fully open (regardless of what gear you’re in). A long steep uphill straight is obviously best for this sort of test.
Are you sure the slip isn’t the rear wheel losing traction? If it only happens when the road gets bumpy perhaps you should be taking a look at the suspension linkages, rear shock and tyre.


But then it doesn't make sense why it only happens when the bike is cold, as soon as I've been riding for 10 minutes or more the problem goes away, hence why I thought it might be the clutch as then maybe the cold thick oil is causing problems for it

darrsi

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Re: Slipping Clutch
« Reply #9 on: 30 August 2018, 03:13:28 pm »
Do you actually have any play at the lever end, or does the lever snap right back when you let go?
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Fazerider

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Re: Slipping Clutch
« Reply #10 on: 30 August 2018, 03:41:47 pm »

You’re right, it probably is the clutch slipping if it only happens when the oil is cold, you hadn’t mentioned that previously.
Check the condition and adjustment of the clutch cable and make sure the actuator in the sprocket cover is greased and not making odd clicking noises.


Buy some OE springs and a new clutch cover gasket as the old one will probably get destroyed. Replacing the springs is straightforward: put the bike on the sidestand, so long as it isn't overfilled with oil you don't need to drain it.
To do the job you do not need to take the clutch pressure plate off, but if you do want to look at the friction plates don't lose the ball bearing at the tip of the pushrod and do make sure the pressure plate goes back on in the same position when you're done. It is not symmetrical, if it gets put back rotated it'll appear to fit but will give no drive and can get damaged.
 
When reassembling, I like to uses a thin smear of liquid gasket on the engine cases to glue the new gasket in position and a thin smear of non-moly grease on the mating surface of the clutch cover. That way, the next time you take it off the gasket should be undamaged... I've been able to take mine off half a dozen times since without needing to buy another gasket.


Hopefully you now have a Fazer with a healthy clutch. If not, you will need to change the friction plates, but at least you shouldn't need a new gasket.


Finally, the levers at the handlebars often get neglected, Cleaning and lubricating the pivots with heavy grease can make a huge difference to the feel of both clutch and brake.

kev250

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Re: Slipping Clutch
« Reply #11 on: 01 September 2018, 06:57:40 pm »
I had the same thing. Give it power and once i get to 6k rpm it used to just jump to redline. Eventually it started stuttering even at low rpm. New clutch plates put it and it was back to normal.

Grant1Shepherd

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Re: Slipping Clutch
« Reply #12 on: 02 September 2018, 01:32:06 pm »
Do you actually have any play at the lever end, or does the lever snap right back when you let go?


There is a small bit of play when I pull the lever before the clutch is engaged, however the lever go straight back to normal after I've changed gear and released the clutch

Grant1Shepherd

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Re: Slipping Clutch
« Reply #13 on: 02 September 2018, 01:34:33 pm »

You’re right, it probably is the clutch slipping if it only happens when the oil is cold, you hadn’t mentioned that previously.
Check the condition and adjustment of the clutch cable and make sure the actuator in the sprocket cover is greased and not making odd clicking noises.


Buy some OE springs and a new clutch cover gasket as the old one will probably get destroyed. Replacing the springs is straightforward: put the bike on the sidestand, so long as it isn't overfilled with oil you don't need to drain it.
To do the job you do not need to take the clutch pressure plate off, but if you do want to look at the friction plates don't lose the ball bearing at the tip of the pushrod and do make sure the pressure plate goes back on in the same position when you're done. It is not symmetrical, if it gets put back rotated it'll appear to fit but will give no drive and can get damaged.
 
When reassembling, I like to uses a thin smear of liquid gasket on the engine cases to glue the new gasket in position and a thin smear of non-moly grease on the mating surface of the clutch cover. That way, the next time you take it off the gasket should be undamaged... I've been able to take mine off half a dozen times since without needing to buy another gasket.


Hopefully you now have a Fazer with a healthy clutch. If not, you will need to change the friction plates, but at least you shouldn't need a new gasket.


Finally, the levers at the handlebars often get neglected, Cleaning and lubricating the pivots with heavy grease can make a huge difference to the feel of both clutch and brake.


The clutch plates were only changed about a year ago with OE plates and heavy duty springs, I've been told by a mechanic that they are weak as anything and to go for some other one's he was on about, I can't really remember but basically it was a different sort of clutch plates, I wouldn't mind this all except for the fact of like I said the clutch plates and springs were only changed a year ago

Grant1Shepherd

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Re: Slipping Clutch
« Reply #14 on: 02 September 2018, 01:35:50 pm »
I had the same thing. Give it power and once i get to 6k rpm it used to just jump to redline. Eventually it started stuttering even at low rpm. New clutch plates put it and it was back to normal.


Ahhhh I hope it doesn't start stuttering at low rpm, I live in London so most of my riding is at low rpm. Thanks for the heads up, looking like new clutch plates and springs will be needed

darrsi

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Re: Slipping Clutch
« Reply #15 on: 02 September 2018, 04:29:17 pm »
Have you actually adjusted the cable yet, at both ends?
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Re: Slipping Clutch
« Reply #16 on: 03 September 2018, 11:04:13 am »
Don't put in heavy springs it will ruin the bike !
The clutch adjustment is best described as 'Fiddly' - the bottom adjustment takes a few attempts to get it bang on . The design of the clutch isn't great and even a well set up clutch with new springs, friction and metal plates can still slip when the oil is cold and you gun it !

Lots of people have put in all new clutch components only to find no improvement or it has even got worse (me included) - its easy to check the plates on this bike - if they have plenty of meat and they are not glazed up just persevere with getting the adjustment right.
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